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Radio/ Head Unit/ Speaker Chat & Upgrades Accord Coupe 2.0 3.0 V6


hughezee

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My system is what i call "fake separates".  The turntable is separate, tuner is separate, amp/DSP (fancy graphic) is separate, twin auto-reverse cassette decks are separate and the CD player (originally a 5 disc autochanger but the tray was circular and held the 5 discs in different parts of it) is separate.

However i call them fake separates because the original Sony wiring to connect them means they can only be assembled one way with the turntable at the top followed by the tuner, amp, cassette decks and CD player at the bottom. In other words standard format for an integrated midi-system but all separate units with external wiring or as John Cleese so eloquently put it for a tv ad way back when, "three platefuls of spaghetti hanging' out the back!" ;):D

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  • 6 months later...

Mine has a cassette player fitted with CD input, but no changer fitted and no obvious cable, odd but hey. What can I fit? I would imagine a single DIN unit from the same sort of year Accord etc. but I have heard horror stories about using other head units due to the multiplexing. What's the overall feeling of what is best to fit without knackering the car?

 

Any help gratefully received. I'm happy to buy a used standard CD single DIN but happy with a more modern unit too.

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I just use a usb stick in an fm transmitter unit plugged in the 12v outlet...never got around to changing the head unit....i dont tend to listen to too much anyway and the Bose radio works well enough for what I need .

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I have 2 answers here. One that says don't fit an aftermarket unit due to the electronics and another that says it's fine to. I don't like the FM transmitter. I've seen some tacky but nice Pioneer and Kenwood units with DAB, CD, and USB inputs, but also seen some period CD single disc units fitted to the Accord. So? What is the answer? I'm easy confused. t looks like a new single DIN unit should work but will it or is it better to go for the original fit?

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1 hour ago, Lumpy said:

One that says don't fit an aftermarket unit due to the electronics

It's basically the same thing, its fine to fit if an aftermarket radio, if you consider the orange wire should be isolated from the cars loom, if you don't then things could get very dark on the dash and expensive to sort out...

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1 hour ago, hughezee said:

It's basically the same thing, its fine to fit if an aftermarket radio, if you consider the orange wire should be isolated from the cars loom, if you don't then things could get very dark on the dash and expensive to sort out...

Thx. What does it do? Power where not wanted I guess?

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Another oddity maybe, looking at more modern units with quoted high power, would that wreck the amplifier under the rear shelf, I'm guessing yes? It looks like the best way is to get a good nick Honda / Pioneer unit and one of those MP3 things to plug in the back.

 

I've had systems in my cars with 1500W RMS and been less confused than this car 🙂

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34 minutes ago, Lumpy said:

would that wreck the amplifier under the rear shelf

Your motor shouldn't have an amplifier unless it has BOSE and the amplifier (item 2) would be located on the O.S rear behind the trim, so you must be talking about the TDK aerial signal amplifiers fitted (item 5). Also, I have fitted plenty of aftermarket systems in the 1998-2002 UK/USA accords with or without BOSE leaving the additional amplifier in use without a problem. 😉

 B__1600.jpg

So fitting an aftermarket radio with the ISO adaptor I sent you should be a simple process, just the none bose speakers aren't very powerful although I have a nice pioneer unit with USB/AUX which sounded really good in a coupe with standard speakers if you are interested 😜

100-2319.jpg

 

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  • The title was changed to 1998-2002 Accord Coupe Radio/ Head Unit."AFTERMARKET"
2 hours ago, hughezee said:

Fitting an aftermarket radio with the ISO adaptor I sent you should be a simple process, just the none bose speakers aren't very powerful although I have a nice pioneer unit with USB/AUX which sounded really good in a coupe with standard speakers if you are interested 😜

 

 

I've not had a good look at the loom, so would I need to isolate the orange wire from the loom?

 

After 17 years of Blackbird ownership answering technical questions, and 7 years of E38 ownership doing the same, plus moderating on other forums, it feels odd to be asking questions instead of answering them ☺️

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13 minutes ago, Lumpy said:

so would I need to isolate the orange wire from the loom?

I removed the orange wire completely from the loom I sent to save you the hassle 👍

13 minutes ago, Lumpy said:

it feels odd to be asking questions instead of answering them

We all have to start somewhere, ask anything you like no matter how silly it may sound, but the difference with our experienced members we are always learning new tips or techniques as we listen to each other, so don't hesitate to share your experience or opinions as we value all members on Honda 6...

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  • The title was changed to Honda Bose Radio+ CD Changer?
  • 2 months later...
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On 5/24/2018 at 6:41 AM, Retro Rich said:

Nobody would know what flex is or indeed what had hit them. Ohhhh yes, we’re perhaps a trifle too old for that now, by perhaps a couple of decades ?

But if it feels good, do it 😄 I say  😄😲

On 5/26/2018 at 11:42 AM, Laird_Scooby said:

That said, from the little i've gleaned about Stu and his audio, the amp will likely be in the kW ratings rather than W with little or no THD and speakers to match - no contest for the "Halfrauds Special 3000W Sub-Woofer/amplifier combo for £39.99" :lol:

Looking at possibilities again, so many frequency dis-crap-ancies with the BOSE system in the car, well that's BOSE coloured sound in general...

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Good audio isnt just about the volume though, one of the reasons the Lexus RX is still about is that the Mark Levinson stereo set up is so good at low volume combined with how quiet the cabin is make a great combination and means that you can enjoy your music in a way that you can't with a poorer set up. I would imagine it will be the same in your coupe Stu as you have extra sound deadening fitted already.

Saying that it's still fun to wind the volume up when you want to, I was enjoying Clutch's Electric Worry at pin sharp ear bleeding volume this morning, not sure the pedestrians I drove past enjoyed as much as I did 😀

Do you beef up the mountings for the speakers to cut out vibration Stu?

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On 3/8/2019 at 7:02 PM, Cryistic said:

Do you beef up the mountings for the speakers to cut out vibration Stu?

The coupe is an oddball, I've done a few preliminary tests and it resonates around 50Hz with a sharp cutoff below or above at certain levels and it drives me mad TBH, so I was thinking of removing the rear 6x9's and putting a blanking plate with a port and stick a sub in and sod it. As you rightly say it's not about volume but then the front speakers wouldn't keep up anyway, plus I would lose the MIDBASS reflected off the rear screen. So thinking of putting a couple of subs under the seats and run in a push configuration maybe and run in 30Hz/50Hz on one and 50Hz/100Hz  to avoid cancellations and excess vibration and tweak the existing speakers with passive filters from 100Hz/ 18KHz and running the head unit flat...

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Would it not be easier (and possibly cheaper) to find the component that is causing the 50Hz resonance and damp it with soundproofing mat Stu? Or is it down to the shape of the cabin causing a 50Hz resonant chamber? If so a couple of ports into the boot space would increase the volume and reduce the resonant frequency.

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I kind of just resign to the fact that a car is not the place for high fidelity. Too much road noise, electrical noise and wiper noise. Besides, really high quality sound encourages me to air drum, and letting go of the steering wheel is not ideal 😂

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