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Radio/ Head Unit/ Speaker Chat & Upgrades Accord Coupe 2.0 3.0 V6


hughezee

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  • 5 months later...
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Hi buddy, the fronts are 16cm but the double hole 6.5 inch drivers will fit in the existing moulding and you will need to remove the door card to gain access ;) and the rears you will need to get the trim out as pictured in this post: http://honda6.ipbhost.com/index.php?/topic/70-accord-coupe-rear-speakers-replacement/

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Hello mate,

I thought the fronts are 13cm. When I installed my Audio system in my previous CG2 I had 16.5cm and they didn't fit directly in the moldings and I had to put a spacer underneath the speaker to raise it so it sat in the factory speaker moldings.

Are you adding amps? Our coupe is brilliant for acoustics. Let me know if you want to know what my set up was. I still have it but just been lazy to install it in the new one.

Good luck

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Good point Ashy the moulding may need a fettle dependant on the driver spec's which will determine its true size as some speakers e.g Kenwood mid/bass have a shallow chassis which will match the existing driver. The Bose/ standard door speakers are 160mm aka 16cm and I have actually measured them before I sent some off to another member to confirm sizes, no issues personally ;)

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What you got ash 50/50 about amping as stereo 4x60w

 

 

I will apologise from the outset.....sorry for the long response!

I had component MB Quarts in the front and placed the tweeters in the stock holes on the dash and had them firing against the widescreen for a better sound staging. I had them running off one Phoenix Gold 75 watt amp.

I have Pioneer 3 ways on the rear deck which are powered by the head unit.

I originally had a single JL Audio 12" sub in a small sealed enclosure but then over time it deteriorated and I replaced it with a Diamond Audio sub in the same enclosure. I had this powered and bridged to 300 watts by an old school Kenwood amp

The 2 amps, the component crossovers and the gold block power cable splitters were installed on the back of both of the rear seats. The entire interior was taken out and carpets lifted so that I could run all the signal and power cables separately in order to eliminate any interference. After all this hard work interference is the worst thing that can happen and will driven anyone crazy! I had the Phoenix Gold speaker cables for the dash and doors running down the side of the car to the amp via the crossovers. The RCA cables and amp switch cable from the head unit running down the middle of the car to the amp(slightly apart from one another). The power cable for the amps were fused by a gold fuse box close to the battery and then fed through a grommet in the firewall into the passenger side and ran under the passenger seat to the rear and then split to the 2 amps. I ran a new power lead direct to the battery from the head unit and again fused it there and took the ignition power from the ignition itself. I earthed the amps in the rear close by to them. You may know that V6Vtec has ended up with my previous CG2 and he will find that all my cables are still there.

The reason I powered the fronts with an amp and not the rears is because of acoustics, sound staging and imaging. I am old school and used to be a bit of an audiophile. Music should be "seen" to be coming from in front of you as if you were at a concert of any kind. Naturally you will get acoustic reverberation as music bounces and travels all around the concert hall and that's what the rear speakers will be there for and emulate(known as rear fill). That's why I didn't have any amp power going to rears because if I did the music would then be taken from in front of me and dragged backwards and thus destroying my front staging.

The sub was place in a sealed enclosure because it gives a much tighter bass and can produce a lower bass but requires more power. Also the enclosure can be much smaller which is more practical in the boot. I didn't want a ported enclosure because to get it perfectly tuned to the Sub is too much work, also they tend to be much louder and not as controlled as a sealed one and you also need larger space for them to work efficiently in.

I experimented with the positioning with the sub and had the enclosure rear against the back of the rear seats so the sub was firing into the boot which enhanced the bass. I also pulled the enclosure forward and had the sub facing against the fog light clusters and what a massive difference in bass that made, it was like adding another sub because it was literally firing against the fog light cluster and using the boot to enhance the sound and using it as another enclosure. This bass was too much for me and also too "boomy". I had it also firing against the rear seats too but that was a bit flat so I settled with my initial placement. You will also have to be prepared to go around the car and tighten panels and place thin draught excluder strips in places to eliminate rattling and vibration noises.

I mentioned to you that acoustically our cars are brilliant bearing in mind that cars in general are the worst environment to recreate a good sound in. You could not tell that the sub sound was coming from the rear and that is down to the car, even passengers in the rear couldn't tell the direction it was coming from but could "feel" it. I had en excellent balance of sound and no frequency drowned another out and the power was on tap if I needed it. My musical tastes are VERY diverse and this set up truly worked across the entire range.

Like you I also have a high powered head unit which sounds very good BUT you cannot attain the control,quality and power as would when separately powering a set up. It's all to do with the size of power transformers and internals of an amp against a head unit which is designed to carry out a number of tasks in the confines of a small box. Logically you would expect the amp to do its task a lot better and efficiently than a head unit.(In my humble opinion:) )

All the above is of course down to personal taste and if I'm up to it again then I will install it in my current CG2 as all my equipment is sitting there waiting for me except I have to buy new front components. I am thinking of Focals from either the KR or KR2 range. The other change I would make going forward is that I would Dynamat the doors and maybe the boot as this will deaden the panels and also increase the decibels. Also technology has moved on significantly since my purchases but I just can't justify a changed in equipment at present.

I hope the above gives you an idea and really hope you're not put off by the work involved. The end result and sound is very rewarding and if you are in to your music like I am then you'll absolutely love it!

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AshyV6 sorry to chime in on your reply Pr1ths, I used to do car audio installations and I’m still a freelance sound engineer “Pro Audio” anyway your response was music to my ears. :)  Just one thing to mention you can create cancellations and delays with certain frequencies with ported, band-pass cab's and using the right drivers, so resonance occurrences (boomy-ness) will be almost eliminated. ;)

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AshyV6 sorry to chime in on your reply Pr1ths, I used to do car audio installations and I’m still a freelance sound engineer “Pro Audio” anyway your response was music to my ears. :)  Just one thing to mention you can create cancellations and delays with certain frequencies with ported, band-pass cab's and using the right drivers, so resonance occurrences (boomy-ness) will be almost eliminated. ;)

Is there nothing you don't know???!!!! This is the reason why you should move nearer to London......so I can come and see you but you might end up slapping a harassment order against me!!!!

Once upon a time(23 years to be precise) I used be an apprentice in the in car entertainment world staring off at Mike Wells Car Audio in Fulham and then to Katherine Road Audio. No doubt you must've have attended the annual Sound Offs which were an eye opener and NOT all about bass. I used to carry out installs independently and thought I would try a business but it was just too time consuming with little financial reward in return.

What you mentioned about the ported enclosure is exactly what I meant by tuning, I simply do not have the technical know how to do this and the correct sized sealed enclosure is just perfect for me and easy. Tuning is clearly your forte....mate I'm proper impressed by your knowledge!

Do you feel the same as me in creating a soundstage and imaging from the front?

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AshyV6 you made me chuckle...loudly...."Is there nothing you don't know???!!!!"  :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:

 

The answer is....."Nope", not if the subject concerns Honda Motor Cars or audio.  Want to know the valve clearance for an NSX?  Stu will know.  Want to fit proper audio in your Honda?  Stu will know.  Want to know how to wire up the guidance system for a Stinger missile system?  Stu will know.

 

If Stu ever goes on The Chase, I'm betting the house on him winning!!!!

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  • 1 month later...
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The BOSE system in the coupe/SE Exec's/Type V really is excellent.  I know they're old hat these days, no pop out screens, no sat nav built in etc, there's no bluetooth, no DAB, no iPOD connection, etc etc but the sound is incredible and it's the sound that you obviously hear.  It's not about the watts per channel, how big the amp is or filling your boot with massive speakers....it's about the quality of the sound and BOSE famously don't advertise the output of their systems because it isn't about the output.  I really rate BOSE kit, yes it's expensive, but the quality is there.

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  • 2 weeks later...

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