Laird_Scooby

Welcome aboard! There is a section for new members to say hello : https://honda6.ipbhost.com/forum/7-say-hello/ Lots of info in the thread like where to find the members gallery (for their caars!) and other things!

Hmmmm, V6 growl Vs 5-pot woofle? Tough choice! If the choice is removed though it makes life harder and you want the V6 growl.

Ah, the frozen north! Was actually 32C here today, glad the AC in the CR-V works well, must fix the Jags AC soon, at least before winter! Sounds like normal service is returned on the Elysion at least!

Possibly. There doesn't seem to be a hard and fast rule as to what faults are logged, some are and some aren't. I'm sure whoever designed the software did put rules in for logging faults or not but i've never worked it out - software really isn't my thing! However, if you plug in your code reader, it may show up a logged fault, probably a pressure switch fault at an edumacated guess. This will popint the way to which solenoid is sticking and not letting the pressure through. However, you may also find (like i did) that the wire to said pressure switch is broken or the switch itself may be faulty. All would give similar symptoms so it's really a case of investigating and see what you find. As you go through and find what's wrong, you'll realise there is a pattern to how it all comes together to work which will help your understanding of how it all works. Always worth remembering the old computing acronym of GIGO - Garbage In, Garbage Out. In other words, treat the fault code as a potential red herring as it may not be the indicated fault but one that gives similar symptoms.

It sounds very much like a sticky solenoid, probably due to lack of maintenance of ATF but as you've done some part-changes, that should help. Doing another round of part-changes may improve things further as well. Mine still gives the odd harsh/slurred 1-2 change but is getting much rarer now. I daresay when i do another part change in spring next year, it'll bring it up to near perfect and i would think similar for you. I'm NOT SURE this is the right one for yours but gives you an idea of the animal you are looking for. Might also be worth checking the screens in yours (filters on the solenoid fluid inlets) are clean/clear. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/305410690214 The biggest part of the job is stripping the ancillaries away for access, typically you need to remove the air cleaner box and a few other bits to actually see the solenoids. Worth having a look on YT for videos for changing gearbox solenoids on the Accord V6 or, as many of them are likely to be American, transmission solenoids. Here's one i found : ........... and the search i did to find it : https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=accord+v6+transmission+solenoid Happy vid watching!

That sounds suspiciously like a sticky 1st/2nd gear solenoid, i have one for my CR-V but the fault (that i found when i went to change the solenoid) was a broken wire on a pressure switch on the box (think it was 2nd gear pressure but might have been 1st, can't remember or think just now), repaired that and all but eliminated except for the odd occasion when i've either turned or braked sharply.

There is normally a self-check for SRS warning lights, should come on at some point during starting then go out and stay out. Different cars have different self-check modes so might pay to brush up on your Japanese and read the owners handbook! Alternatively as long as it comes on at some point during starting and goes off, more importantly stays off after, i wouldn't worry.

That's been keeping you busy then!

Probably not, it needs to get above the speed the ABS would normally begin operating, generally 20kmh or 12mph in real money.

Some Honda ABS ECUs need to see the sensor perform as it should for a few miles before clearing the fault automatically. Most aftermarket OBD-II readers won't clear the ECU, Hondas own reader apparently does (Stu could likely confirm) but most from the late 90s on seem to be self clearing after being driven.

I'm assuming you checked the rack was central in straight ahead position before doing the balancing of the TRE lengths? Had similar on my Volvo, when the TREs were equal length, the rack wasn't centred. Caused several problems! The amount of toe out (0deg 30') wasn't much but could give you a bit of a pull and odd tyre wear, especially if the rack wasn't central. Should also make it more stable, especially under power.

Good luck! Takes a while to get it set up the first time but that's part of the learning curve. Don't forget to recalibrate after making adjustments.

Most of us gave up on PHotobucket when it held us all to ransom for $399/year for access to our photos! Many of us use postimages.org now, similar idea to PB but use the "Direct Link" - you'll soon get the hang of it. Glad your repair worked too!

I know my CR-V needed a Honda-specific fluid, found some on ebay about half the price of the Honda stuff. Would be wise to check the requirements for your car, possibly shown on the reservoir cap and then search on ebay for the fluid denoted there. With the fluids you have, the second one sounds as if it may have absorbed water, not sure what fluid exactly it is but if it behaves similarly to brake fluid (given the use you bought it for, quite likely) then the brown colour could have come from absorbing water and going milky like old brake fluid does. I'd be inclined to throw it away or put it in a corner if you're likely to need it for your Merc again then check the colour against what's in the car.

Within the PAS system, the pump compresses the fluid which increasses the temperature. Going back ~8 years to when i first got my Volvo, the rack was off-centre in the straight ahead driving position so the PAS was permanently active. Despite the PAS cooler, the PAS fluid still boiled as a result and frothed up through the breather hole on the filler cap. See my comment above about the PAS fluid boiling in my Volvo. Fill to the line, start the engine and slowly turn the steering lock to lock to lock continuously until bubbles stop appearing in the reservoir. Switch off, wait until cool again and top up to the line.