Honda Accord V6 Exhaust Help

[semaj]

Help please! I need an exhaust system from the cat back for a 1999 v6 accord coupe. I have tried my usual motor factors down  here in Cornwall but no listing. Would be quite happy to fit a single rear silencer type if it would fit, such as the 2.0 litre Accord as it looks almost identical from the cat. Does anyone know??

[PTR200S]

23 minutes ago, semaj said:

Help please! I need an exhaust system from the cat back for a 1999 v6 accord coupe. I have tried my usual motor factors down  here in Cornwall but no listing. Would be quite happy to fit a single rear silencer type if it would fit, such as the 2.0 litre Accord as it looks almost identical from the cat. Does anyone know??

Have a look at this system, bit pricey but the other option is to find a local fabrication company and get them to make one for you.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Honda-Accord-1998-3L-Magnaflow-Performance-Cat-Back-Exhaus-15640/263364545662?

 

Maybe this one, much cheaper than Magnaflow.

http://bmmperformance.co.uk/product/honda-accord-98-02-2d-v6-stainless-catback-exhaust-system/

 

Alternatively, if your main pipe is not too bad and can be repaired what about a couple of replacement silencers?

[hughezee]

1 hour ago, semaj said:

Help please! I need an exhaust system from the cat back for a 1999 v6 accord coupe. I have tried my usual motor factors down  here in Cornwall but no listing. Would be quite happy to fit a single rear silencer type if it would fit, such as the 2.0 litre Accord as it looks almost identical from the cat. Does anyone know??

Welcome to the club and sorry to hear about your plight and FYI the 2.0 & 3.0 systems are completely different and as Pete suggests there are a couple of loud ones on eBay. Also, I would suggest speaking to Holdcroft Honda or Cox Motor Parts as they give great discounts on genuine parts but its unlikely they would ship the midsection. Your local Rowes Honda doesn't really do discounts, so I think your best bet is to visit an exhaust specialist and have one made to fit, £350-450 for a full stainless CAT back system should be the figure you looking at... 

[hughezee]

This topic might be of some interest fella. 

 

[Mangoman]

Reasonably priced....  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OBX-Catback-Exhaust-For-2003-2004-2005-Honda-Accord-Coupe-2-4L-3-0L-I4-V6/202029739886?epid=1056403148&hash=item2f09e92f6e:g:WfQAAOSwWLFZm0sb 

[semaj]

Thanks for all the replies.

[Laird_Scooby]

On 4/6/2018 at 10:16 AM, Mangoman said:

Reasonably priced....  https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/OBX-Catback-Exhaust-For-2003-2004-2005-Honda-Accord-Coupe-2-4L-3-0L-I4-V6/202029739886?epid=1056403148&hash=item2f09e92f6e:g:WfQAAOSwWLFZm0sb 

 

On 4/6/2018 at 10:18 AM, Mangoman said:

Ignore previous post - didn't realise it was in the US. Ebay stuff-up!!! I wanted UK Only!

The seller will ship to the UK Bill but it's likely to be an extra $160-200 on the price. He's also a dropshipper, so takes your order then orders it from the supplier at a discounted price who then sends it to you.

Better off finding someone friendly in the USA to buy it, have it shipped to their address then post it to you.

By the time you've done that though, it would be cheaper to do what Stu suggested and find a local exhaust system builder and get one made up in stainless for £350-400 fitted.

[Shiva]

I've got a 2000 model Accord coupe. Recent advisory on my MoT was that the exhaust joint is corroded.  Smiths of Fleet suggested that I could manage with a sleeve for a few thousand miles but I've my own concerns. A brand new exhaust from the dealer costs £520+VAT, which I do not think is worth the money. Any suggestions on aftermarket fitments in and around Berkshire, which would closely match with the OEM part?  

--Shiva

[hughezee]

Longtime member and first post, so welcome to the club, scroll up a little for some previous suggestions. 

 

[Laird_Scooby]

Welcome aboard! A service sleeve will get you out of trouble for a while and give you breathing space to save up for either a new exhaust from the dealers (bear in mind it's probably the original exhaust so has lasted 20 years ish so not bad value) or to have one made up in stainless steel.

If it's a "keeper" then either the dealer or stainless exhaust would be good choices, if you're not keeping it, sleeve it and then sell the car. Be sure to tell the new purchaser about this club/forum/site though!

If it was me, i'd go for the stainless option and even if i sold it later, it would be a good selling point and while it won't increase the value of the car, the exhaust couldn't be used to drive the price down.

[welland99]

On 4/13/2018 at 9:11 AM, Shiva said:

I've got a 2000 model Accord coupe. Recent advisory on my MoT was that the exhaust joint is corroded.  Smiths of Fleet suggested that I could manage with a sleeve for a few thousand miles but I've my own concerns. A brand new exhaust from the dealer costs £520+VAT, which I do not think is worth the money. Any suggestions on aftermarket fitments in and around Berkshire, which would closely match with the OEM part?  

--Shiva

I think I have the same problem on my 2.0 coupe too.  Was having a good look at the joint between the rear silencer and the centre pipe last weekend and the flanges have almost disappeared.  Only one bolt remains and it's obviously blowing quite a lot. Luckily, both the pipe ends seem to be complete and strong, so looking for a way to join them together.  

Unless I can find an economical repair strategy I fear that I'd be looking at replacement of the whole system, cat included,  which isn't really cost effective, I'm afraid.  Especially since mot is due end of November.  

What are these afore-mentioned sleeves like? Do they need to be welded on?

[welland99]

Anybody tried anything like this:  https://www.eurocarparts.com/search/712110860?type=shopping&gclid=CjwKCAjw54fdBRBbEiwAW28S9ljGAS0-EM1dyGjFx04lZ1l2599Wr1fYcZOn52FQbzn81_R0OtJY2hoCCmAQAvD_BwE

Although my pipe ends appear strong, they still have the welds that originally held the flanges. So, I'd need to cut these off, before such a sleeve would fit.  

[Laird_Scooby]

They work very well but firstly can be found for about half the price on fleabay (same Klarius items) and when fitted, the two end clamp nuts need to be done up progressively - nip the nuts up with the fingers then literally just 1 or 2 turns on each nut in turn at a time. If one nut is tightened a lot then the other one, the sleeve distorts and it ends up blowing.

If they are fitted correctly though, they don't blow and are very strong in terms of keeping the exhaust as it should be. Once tightened cold, start the engine and as the exhaust warms up, add a half turn to each nut at a time to get it well and truly gas tight.

[welland99]

As an alternative to the clamp-on sleeve (for which I would need to cut both pipe ends), I wondered if a pair of split flanges would do the job. Something like one if these: https://exhaustdirect.com/Split-Flange/ ? Trouble is that I can't find anything like this in the UK.  Has anybody seen anything like this - with 50mm internal diameter?

 

Another wild thought came to me today when I saw somebody else's exhaust on their pickup truck.  Their exhaust was a good foot too short: the end was under the car.  Apparently, it passed the mot like that,  though it does have all its silencers present. 

My wild thought was this: if my rear exhaust section was completely absent, could it pass the mot?  If not, Why not?  Ok, so it would be louder, but otherwise still safe.  

[Laird_Scooby]

11 minutes ago, welland99 said:

Has anybody seen anything like this - with 50mm internal diameter?

This is the nearest i've seen to what i think you're describing :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Exhaust-Flexi-conical-Joint-complete-54mm-flexible-Repair-pipe-Flange-2-1-8/263026505419

The I/D will be 2"/51mm as the O/D is 54mm or 2 1/8" - wall thickness is 1/16" or 1.6mm in new money but still means you have to cut off those welds you mentioned. These can be welded or clamped on, daresay you could even braze them on in fact.

[hughezee]

19 hours ago, welland99 said:

My wild thought was this: if my rear exhaust section was completely absent, could it pass the mot?  If not, Why not?  Ok, so it would be louder, but otherwise still safe.  

First, off you will lose power and the car will intermittently stall and make a hell of a noise, the F-series is very sensitive to changes in the exhaust gas flow and back pressure and would likely fail on emissions rather than the bits missing on the exhaust...

[Cryistic]

I had this on the right back box of my coupe, the joint flanges had rotted out and when I was pushing the engine up through the rev range the join opened up, sounded great but I knew it would be an issue come MOT time.

 

It was only the mild steel flange that had rotted out, the actual sealing surfaces on the exhaust pipe were in good condition, so I made my own clamps up using 4 exhaust U clamps and 2mm aluminium flat bar stock.

1 - Fit a u clamp tight up to either side of the rotten flange.  these will provide the fixing onto the exhaust pipe.

2 - Align the bolts on the clamps on either side of  the exhaust join join with a straight edge. This is at 90° to the clamp itself.

3- Measure the distance between the bolts across the exhaust join when the joint is pulled up tight, this is so you can drill out a suitable peice of aluminium flat bar to act as a clamping bar.

4 - Cut the aluminium to a suitable size, mark up the aluminium with the measurements you have taken and drill out some suitable size holes for the clamp bolts.

5 -  Fit the clamping bar across the joint using the U clamp nuts to hold it in place, I used thread lock to secure it, you could just use an extra lock nut.

6 - repeat the process for the other side of the joint.

 

if you make the aluminium bridging piece the right size it will pull the joint up nice and tight, a smear of exhaust paste on the mating faces of the exhaust will stop any blow by. Joint is tight and solid with no flex.

 

It's a bodge obviously but a decent one as it's safe and secure.

[Kelvin]

Well mine has decided to give up the ghost - I'll get under there tomorrow and have a listen bug I think it's around the rear driver's silencer.

The mot is due next month as well

[Kelvin]

Turns out its a snapped weld on the centre piece Y joint - not too corroded but obviously not brilliant.

 

 

[PaulS]

Seems an easy weld fix - if you can get the old system off so a welder can get at it....  I have welded such things before, and although they can be tricky before u=one finds solid metal, it can be done.  Even paying someone, I reckon its a max £100 fix - almost free if you can do it yourself or through a handy friend...

[Kelvin]

14 hours ago, PaulS said:

Seems an easy weld fix - if you can get the old system off so a welder can get at it....  I have welded such things before, and although they can be tricky before u=one finds solid metal, it can be done.  Even paying someone, I reckon its a max £100 fix - almost free if you can do it yourself or through a handy friend...

The middle section had to be welded on a weld before and the joints are not something I'd want to part if at all possible. So it's going up on a lift  on Fri, to see if it can be welded in situ. It cost me £40 for the last weld but I'm not so optimistic this time.

[Laird_Scooby]

It sounds very much like if this one can be welded, that's your cue to start tracking down a new system before the next MoT.

[Kelvin]

On 9/16/2020 at 11:55 AM, Laird_Scooby said:

It sounds very much like if this one can be welded, that's your cue to start tracking down a new system before the next MoT.

Sadly, it not weldable. It was up on the lift yesterday. Tom says he could cut some metal away and sleeve it but it probably wouldn't last were it is.

So it's probable that on Tuesday I'll drop it off to him and he takes the centre section off, then gets the local fabricators to make an identical piece up. Franklin's Silencers are a decent company and just up the road.

Fingers crossed that it all works out.

[Torogo]

According to Marshall Honda (Reading) the OEM exhaust system for my 1999 V6 is still listed, but one rear box on backorder to August. Total cost for the 3 parts is £650 plus fitting kit. Local stainless fabricator (Longlife, Basingstoke) has quoted £899 to make-up a suitable system!. Meanwhile my 22yr old system has finally rusted through on the bend forward of the rear o/s box.

i dream of finding a fabricator to do the job for around £500 as referenced in this chat. I love the car, but hard to see the exhaust close to equalling it in value! Does anyone have an affordable supplier they have used? Not looking for anything fancy or noisy, just OEM spec would be fine. Would travel for the right solution. Hoping someone can help!

[PaulS]

Perhaps you do not need a whole new system - how about cutting out the rotten section, getting a local fabricator to replace that bit - all you need is falred ends on the new bit, exhaust sealant, and a couple of clamps.  A neater job might be for the fabricator to put flanges on the ends of each bit and bolt it in.

You could even possibly do it yourself with a scrap exhaust of the right section  & bends from a local breakers yard (or ehxaust place), and a couple of tin cans around the cuts and some jubilee clips, and teh exhaust sealant.  Not perfect, but will likely cost you around £20 and 3hrs work....

Also see the post by Cryistic above.

Yes bodges, but will save you a shed load of cash if you want to take this route to keep your coupe going at a reasonable cost.