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Honda Accord V6 Exhaust Help


semaj

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  • 1 month later...

As you recommended well worth going. Economy shot back up and doing ok. Pity there's no in car real time mpg guage other than the level indicator. I only noticed when i didn't have to pull into every petrol station. 

Barely using it now though as I've got my Bora taxed and tested again after 4 years. Just new tyres and a battery. 4 days later drove to Dorset and back under 1 tank!! No where near as comfortable though. 

Going to do jobs on the Honda like my sticking caliper pot and investigate which joint has let go under the front clunking away 🤔

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22 minutes ago, Andy Mc said:

investigate which joint has let go under the front clunking away 🤔

First place i'd look is the anti-roll bar drop links. Easy to diagnose if you have speed humps with a gap between them and the kerb, drive over with one side of the car close to the kerb, as the other wheel goes over the hump you will hear the clunk. Come back the other way (but on the same side of the road) to try it with the opposite side wheel. If you hear it both ways, both drop-links are FUBAR, if only one way then it's the one that went over the hump and made a noise.

That said, if one has gone, renew the pair as the others won't be far behind and the new one will put extra strain on the old one. Make sure you only tighten the bolts fully with the weight of the car on the wheels, even if that means driving up on a pair of ramps.

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  • 2 months later...
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Exhaust on my Coupe started to leak again after the temporary bodge the other week, sounds great though !!!

I think its the right hand silencer to centre pipe again...

On the ramps tomorrow but I think I need to look for some bits or maybe take it over to Lathom Fabrications....

 

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Think I might be able to cut off the remains of the pipe flange both sides, pipe in good condition out with of the joints.....then use one of these....

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/331881299737?

 

This will allow the connection part to "swivel" in the joint and take out any deviance between the two pipe angle connections.  Just need a u clamp and some paste  😜

In the meantime exhaust bandage is my friend 🙄

 

or get one of these !!! Just the shipping and possible tax implications !! otherwise its a cheap pipe set !!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184080696639?

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42 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said:

 I thought the first one you linked to on fleabay (knuckle joint) needs welding on though......... 🤔

I was thinking of slitting , u clamp it, for the connection to the mid pipe but as I will need to take the silencer off I was considering welding that part of it....problem of course is blowing holes in the existing pipe !

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Great minds think alike! I was about to suggest one of those, or the similar service sleeves.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/232786094322

Quicker and easier and you can tighten them evenly if both ends are the same diameter or unevenly if one has correded a bit more than the other. Get both ends reasonablky tight when cold then tighten when hot, tightening extra if one leaks more until neither end is chuffing then when it cools it should grip even tighter and might need nipping up a day or two later but should do the job for quite a while.

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Ha Ha ! you might have been thinking but today I am all over the place !

Yes that might do it, just over three inches long so depending on how much I need to cut off will determine if its that one or the one I linked which seems to be about 6" long...

Just got to be brave now and cut it off with my alligator 😛 

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There are longer versions available, i have one on my Volvo and one on my Rover at the moment, both ~4" long (maybe longer) - the Volvo one is to connect my Polyzhaust back box in place of the standard one that had rotted away and the one on the Rover is to correct the pipe angle because some numpty at Euroflo decided the KV6 and C27 back boxes were identical. 🙄

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13 hours ago, PaulS said:

The joint tube is also much cheaper so if it does not work, even after liberal doses of exhaust sealant, you have not lost much apart from time & effort.... I would try that first....

Good point, the exhaust bandage won't last long as the mechanical connection of the two bolts holding the original joint together are compromised so I need to do something. 

If I cut the pipes and it turns out to be rotten inside that could be a problem but realistically it's stuffed anyway so anything is better than nothing!

I might just take the car off the road for this next month so I can fix it without trying to rush it, been there before when a fairly minor job turns into nightmare 🤣🤣🤣

That means I can leave it on the ramps, cut the exhaust and see what I need to fix before ordering anything. 

If it doesn't work then, as you indicate, nothing lost apart from a few quid and my time.

 

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  • 1 month later...
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After further delays this week, managed to get to the exhaust this morning.  Just a couple of minutes to cut the pipes using the alligator saw, cut off the centre pipe behind the connector to the right rear silencer then removed the silencer and cut the other side of the joint off the silencer side.

New piece slipped over both sides nicely, bit too loose , 45mm pipe over 44mm pipe,  so filled the joints with gum gum and clamped it all up with the u clamps provided with pipe sleeve kit.

Not pretty but hopefully effective repair.

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24 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said:

As long as it doesn't sound like a refugee from Santa pod you should be ok from the sound of it Pete! A good saturday morning well spent! ;):D

To be fair it has sounded pretty good all week with a nice rasp to the note, bit addictive really, fuel consumption is probably up because of that and the fact it wouldn't be fuelling that well with the hole in the pipe !!

 

Have yet to test it out !!

A few pics here now, if it holds it will be a few quid well spent.

Interestingly the two pics of the bit I cut out, one either end shows just how good the metal actual is, ignore the exhaust bandage!,  just an inch from the joint.

It would have been a shame to trash the whole exhaust for a broken / rusted through joint.

exhaust-repair-1.jpg

exhaust-repair-2.jpg

exhaust-repair-3.jpg

exhaust-repair-4.jpg

exhaust-repair-5.jpg

exhaust-repair-6.jpg

exhaust-repair-7.jpg

 

 

The final bit finished, as said, not pretty as had to put clamps slightly offset against the curvature of the original pipe but its done now. Just got to see how it fares underload this next week.

exhaust-repair-8.jpg

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2 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said:

Always seems to be the joins where things fail, i wonder if the welds compromise the steel in some long term anti corrosion way?

Guess once the pipe is welded, no-one bothers trying to corrosion proof the welded area - some gavanising spray might help....

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37 minutes ago, PaulS said:

Guess once the pipe is welded, no-one bothers trying to corrosion proof the welded area - some gavanising spray might help....

The other thing is the condensation that comes out at that point on a cold start...as soon as it starts to weep the rot sets in. 🙄

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