Harry93

Does anyone know how to remove the rear seat backs from its hinges? Looking to do a thorough leather clean and prefer taking the seats out, especially the back ones as there is little space. Also any suggestions on how to remove the front driver seat before disconnecting the battery? I know there is a connection somewhere underneath that needs to be disconnected but is it best to move the seat towards the rear and tilt upwards to gain access to the front and rear rail bolts?

As always, thank you 👍

When can I pay a visit 😁. I have a boot floor/liner that needs a replacement. Mine seems to have lost its structural form in the middle part towards the seats, this has happened from all the parts that I have kept inside 🤦‍♂️.

I kept my word, and finally managed to get the coilovers fitted and adjusted. I was originally thinking of changing my tyre setup before I started fiddling with the suspension, but I couldn't justify spending money on new tyres considering the condition of my current ones. Also in my opinion I thought the 45s looks just a little bit big on the sidewalls for 17" alloys, so decided to keep my current setup. I thought it would also be a good idea to replace the strut mounts and bushes. I didn't take any photos of the old shocks but they looked in desperate need of replacing, the lowering springs however were not cut as some suggested. Difficult to tell from the photos but the car got dropped by an inch & 1/2, two finger gap between tyres and arch. Above is some comparisons of the ride heights. Bottom one is on 15" with lowering springs, middle is on 17", and top one is final result after installing the coilovers. As for the quality of the ride, I could instantly tell the steering was a lot firmer and solid, original shocks felt like steering a boat, alot of oversteer and body roll, but that's probably because of their condition. All the control arms and bushes have been replaced except for the shock absorbers till now. I originally thought this would be a mistake considering I would ruin the quality of the ride, but seeing as they have damper adjustments I can honestly say the ride quality hasn't been as bad as I thought. As I am on incorrect tyres I don't think I can criticize the ride quality and can only think they would be better on the correct tyres if on the correct damper settings and ride height. Speed humps do seem to be a problem now, considering I have gone low 🤦‍♂️, but a little bit more practice and I should master them 😅. But overall I am happy with the the final result both appearance and ride quality. Some after shots: Now, seeing as I have got this far, all it needs is the factory bodykit to finish off the look 👌👍😂.

Much better 👌👍, you see what I mean, it helps knock off some years 😁

Found a nice 2.0ltr manual on carandclassic, 1998 with 84k. MOT history looks good. Good condition for the price, £2,550.

😂 Doesn't look that bad compared to mine. Quick polish should get that rough surface off. 👍

Unfortunately priorities have stopped me from getting them fitted and setup. Hopefully I will get it sorted before summer starts. 👍

Thankyou Ashy 👍. Yes they are a lot easier to adjust but I am more happy that they look better. Surprising the belt buckles and door handles don't get dull overtime, I assume they are chrome aswell.

I did some extreme OCD detail polishing on the headrests. The chrome rods holding the headrests were covered in a layer of oxidation built up over the years plus they were very stiff to adjust, so I thought I would do a little bit of a enhanced interior detail. Before: Products & Prep: Firstly I had degreased the chrome to free up any residual surface grease. Masked up the bottom base of the rests to prevent any excess polish getting to the leather, and covered the leather with a carrier bag. I used 000 fine steel wool to help agitate the polish when scrubbing the chrome and buffed the excess with a micro fiber towel. After putting in much time and patience I finally managed to get that restored shine back. There are better suited ceramic coatings for chrome, but I just simply used what I had to add some protection, that is if it does work in the long run. After: Big difference in the before and after but looking much more presentable and has helped knock of some years from the interior for the eagle eye viewer. I don't think it is too much of a big deal, but it is a missed area when cleaning up the seats/interior.

Another one that I just had to post from marketplace. This is a 6th gen but euro accord, it's only the 1.8 manual version but its in a beautiful Milano red. The bodywork looks mint for its age and mileage. Current owner has owned the car since it was on 30k. Recent cambelt done, K&N induction, BC racing coilovers. £1,800 Swindon. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/713373383916769/

I don't think you would be too pleased to see this one Pete 😬😂, considering you had one of them, 1985 Accord CA5, 2.0ltr on the autobahn.

😂😂👍. I think you are on about the carwow challenge, the other 2 were the Ford Focus and Peugeot 206. After the civic stopped, they still managed to get it going by putting in coke and Mentos mints until the engine gave up. Sad way for a neglected civic to go, but testament to simple honda reliability. It was also painful to watch him kick the bodywork as he thought he could improve its styling 😪. I would drive them anyday, especially the civic aerodecks or the VTI models 👍👌.

For you aerodeck lovers. Was browsing on Facebook marketplace, found a 5th gen 1995 manual aerodeck, 86k £1000 ono. Looks a good one 👍 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/895547375064722/?ref=facebook_story_share

You have done a good job preserving and looking after your coupe, it would be a shame to sell it over this ULEZ zone. If you have the space I would just sorn it, it is too good to get rid off.

I wasn't happy with the quality of workmanship for mine. Had my Takata airbag recall done, few years ago. Had it booked in at my local Honda dealers for a day. Got the car back and when I looked inside, I had found out, that the interior fuse panel cover looked in-secure, like if they just wedged it in place. Removed it and found the screws holding the lower trim to the glovebox, were all sticking out, waiting to fall out of place. Not even hand tightened. You could argue that this is minor, but not what you would expect from experienced Honda technicians. I dred to think how their quality of work was like replacing and fitting the airbag components. But that was only my experience at my local dealer and as always safety comes first.

Okay, sounds a better approach to keeping them protected in the long term, if it can be applied properly, you don't want them to start peeling off over a certain amount of time. And I suppose it is more cost effective rather than wasting time getting fancy headlight polish kits. But personally I would atleast try out a ceramic product specifically for the headlights. But otherwise, sounds good 👍.

It's been a while since I last cleaned my headlights. I think it helps just to keep on top of them to prevent the usual cloudiness. Putting a film on seems a good idea for the long run, but would it withstand the weather over time? Have you tried putting a ceramic coating on the headlights, might help with adding a long term protective coating on the lense?

Did some more wood polishing today in the interior. I didn't get round to finishing the wood trims for the window switch surrounds on the door cards, the last time I did this. Before: After: Hope they stay this way for sometime.

Thankyou. I personally prefer the beige/cream interior for the full on wood look. For me it just blends in perfectly. I don't know what convinced me to change mine but the black plastic surround is easily forgiving on the charcoal interior.

... I left the clock out as I need to replace the backlight bulb. I think it looks okay for a first attempt.

I was doing some audio wiring work this weekend on the Honda so thought this would be my excuse to try and restore the wood trim surrounds. Things I used: I didn't have any before and after comparisons, but I did take my time and polished each trim piece 3 times to reduce the amount of swirls and scratches until there was no visible improvement. Can't say I am 100% satisfied but they are deffinetly better than they where before. Hard to tell with artificial light, but the radio surround came out best out of the interior trims. I wanted to apply some Chemical Guys Jet seal on them, but couldn't justify spending £40 at Halfords. Ended up applying some ceramic coating on them for protection and finish. Might post an image in daylight of the trims once I have done the window switch surrounds.

After years of having useless audio controls on the steering wheel, I finally managed to get them working again with my Kenwood stereo. I had bought the Axxess AXSWC module months ago but was just waiting to start fiddling with the interior again. At first had trouble getting it working as I was only tapping into the stereo harness, but after researching online, managed to get some further Honda wiring info. I guess I was lucky with mine, as the Kenwoods and JVC's require manual programming, requiring a resistor and figuring out the amount of LED flashes in order to figure out the fault codes. Trust me it is a faff, it almost convinced me to get rid of the Kenwood for something else just to make the installation more easier. But I am glad I took the time to get it sorted finally. Also there is alot of technical support on their website. I do have a spare module if anyone is interested, saves buying from the US.

Apart from UK dealers you can try aftermarket, but that is if you are willing to wait for international delivery. If it's the pressure hose try RockAuto or HondaPartsNow.com

Currently with them on my other car on classic insurance. Avoid if you can, very unprofessional. Typical insurance broker 🤨😑