Laird_Scooby

I suspect he's following my suggestion of having the new clamps ready to fit before crawling under - in this weather you only want to crawl under once!

What Pete said! To be honest, i'd suggest investing in a replacement clamp (don't mess about with used ones, they never work properly the second time around) and just fit it while you're under there. If the existing clamp isn't falling apart (doubtful) then check the rad stub for cracks around the join to the rad and the hose for perishing.

The battery wasn't completely flat and 60% might sound like quite a way from fully flat but one attempt at starting would be enough to make it so close you wouldn't get a second chance (usually) to start if it didn't. It is low enough to likely cause problems with various ECUs thinking the battery voltage is too low though so Petes suggestion of a known good, fully charged battery instead is the best starting point.

Gremlins - don't get them wet or feed them after midnight! Seriously though, it sounds like you may have a multiplex problem but that could be caused by a slightly flat battery. That said, it's a bit of a wild guess without seeing it and you'd really need to work through it methodically eliminating parts of the various circuits until you find the one causing the relay to cycle on/off etc.

A tenner a plug - not bad for Iridium. I've never been sure of Iridium plugs, especially in an alloy head. They're good for ~100k miles so only get moved once in that mileage, worries me about them "welding themselves" into the head. Then you have the opposite argument of the threads being damaged by removing/refitting "normal" plugs every 10k miles........... Jury is still out for me, for the time being at least.

Welcome aboard Dave! Nice to know it will be in good hands!

The IACV is what i referred to as the EICV - more used to Rover terminology but it's the same animal. Most on here have the J30 V6 so i kind of assumed you did too, silly me but not properly awake yet!

First check is coolant level, if it's low then it can cause this as the sensors are quite high up - also some models (not sure on the J30) have a temperature controlled fast idle (a bit like an automatic choke) that can cause the same symptom, the ECU sees the idle as too high so winds the EICV back to reduce the idle but it doesn't so the ECU opens the EICV again and this goes on a rinse and repeat causing the surge. Alternatively, cleaning the throttle body and EICV can often cure it but check the coolant level first. Looking at your pic it seems the drive dogs have failed through metal fatigue! Good shout replacing the dizzy, solved more problems than just one! It's amazing it even ran at all like that TBH. Most of us on here use postimages and the "Direct Link" for each image then paste that link where you want the pic in your post.

I used to have G525 BFX, same colour but half the engine size in a 2nd gen Ballade body. Came from a garage in Bournemouth originally if memory serves.

Same as Paul said ^^^^^ 👍 Thought i heard a sonic boom a while ago..........

A few pounds on all tyres isn't a problem at this time of year when it's getting colder, Boyles Law and all that malarkey but 10psi down on one tyre could be a leaky bead, valve core or maybe a nail/screw in the tyre. The washer fluid was full then? If mine don't go through it then i think there's something wrong, Volvo-indoctrination as that used to drink washer fluid like Oliver Reed would go through alcohol. That said, i've only refilled the CR-V about twice in the 8 months i've had it and i topped the Jag up once (had it nearly 2 years now) but it was nowhere near empty - i think it was down to the Volvo screen catching all the crud flying around.

Had it only been one lot and not repeated a couple of years later, i would have said nothing to worry about but, like you, two lots a couple of years apart is a bit much to contemplate. Is that white Aerodeck the Faceberk link he posted further up?

Maybe a "dealer MoT" that will get you through a year or so then throw problems up. Seems to have a recurrent corrosion problem on the rear end of the sills area though.

Which half are you getting? The expensive half or the bit that doesn't eat anything? Whatever, it's all good if you can come to an arrangement, makes life much easier! Hmmm, had something similar on one of my Rovers (827 so essentially a KA1-4 Legend) where the "O" ring seal between the cap and dizzy body had perished and split. Condensation all over the inside of the cap so damp starting was a problem. In free air, 25kV will jump ~1/2" so losing a small chunk of the HT contacts in the cap won't make a lot of difference - also change the rotor arm as often they can go porous and track straight to earth via the shaft. It's more melodious (and not as loud as pairs of F-15s taking off in rapid succession or worse still, F-35s - heavier and slightly more powerful they need to use more power to get airborne so make a lot more noise! As the crow (or F-15) flies, i'm literally about half a mile (at the most!) from one end of the runway so it can get a bit noisy here!

Get the Honda and FTO "repatriated" to somewhere safe and tell wifey you're blaming her for "breaking it" - it's not hers to sell so if she does, that is theft and/or fraud. Even if that means joining the RAC and pushing the Honda 1/4 mile down the road! Like Stu says, check for a spark first and work back from there.

Welcome aboard!

Welcome back!

There's pros and cons to both methods Pete, you pays yer money etc. I believe yours were originally painted and (assuming it's the same colour as Rover models used) will be Silver Sparkle and i believe the Rover paint code is MNH - also think Honda used the same paint but under a different code. There is a new powder coat that is very similar to chrome finish which would look really good on a darker car. https://www.electrostaticmagic.co.uk/collections/new-powder-coating-powders/products/high-chrome They also do pweder coating kits if you have an old electric oven you can repurpose........

Someone has pressed Fast Forward on the universes time clock i think!

I'm pretty sure they're the same but someone else will be along soon to confirm

The Honda originals are the hex socket ones, some aftermarket ones use the same idea (mine did) and others have two flats for spanners as you describe. On my old Rover, that had 2 flats for an 11mm spanner and the nut (If memory serves) was 17mm (might have been 15mm) so i don't know why Honda tried being clever using hex sockets instead, especially as the original idea worked better.

Can you get an impact wrench to drive the nut? If so, use a crowbar or similar to put tension on the drop link and give the impact wrench a whizz. Alternatively, get a ring spanner on the nut and mole grips on the pin to prevent it turning - wire brush and lube the threads with penetrating fluid before you start as well using either method. If the nut binds on the pin coming off, you can probably get in there with a hacksaw to cut the pin (or the Dremel with a cut-off disc) and remove them that way. That's what i had to do on my CR-V when i did the rear drop links. Probably more room on the CR-V to get in there with things like hacksaws and impact wrenches though.

Time flies like an arrow - fruit flies like a banana!

I spent some time this afternoon removing an 11 year old Pirelli P6000 from a rim, incredibly stiff and it fought me all the way! Worryingly though, as it was flexing (eventually!) to come off, i noticed big cracks appearing in the sidewall! I dread to think what could have happened on the car if those same cracks had appeared!

Diesels just don't go bang the way that did, diesel-hybrid or a BEV exploding next to a normal diseasel would cause it though if it managed to explode the diesel in the tank at the same time which pushes the argument towards a diesel-hybrid as the thermal runaway on the battery before it exploded would preheat the diesel making it more volatile, like a giant glow plug!