Laird_Scooby

That's your problem! Whoever fitted the handbrake cables did it wrong! Possibly if they fitted new rear pads at the same time that was done worng too. The procedure is to first slacken the handbrake adjuster inside the car, usually accessed through the back end of the centre console. Working one caliper at a time, remove the rear pads and wind the piston all the way back in. Now free off the handbrake mech on the caliper and lube. Refit the pads. Move to the other rear caliper, repeat. Now operate the footbrake several times, you will hear the autoadjusters operate (series of clicks from the calipers, make sure both autoadjusters work!!!). Once you are satisfied both autoadjusters have operated, adjust the handbrake cable inside the car to be on at 5-8 clicks, NO LESS!!!!!! The handbrake is designed to do this so the autoadjusters ALWAYS have clearance to operate. With the handbrake off, there should be a clearance between the lever the handbrake cable attaches to and the cam it pushes against on the caliper. If memory serves (it's a long time since i've done this so i'm sure Stu will correct me if i'm wrong with this or anything else in this procedure) the clearance should be between 0.5-2.0mm, again this is the clearance needed so the autoadjusters can operate (which takes care of both service brakes and handbrakes on each caliper) but 5-8 clicks at the handbrake lever to be fully on is the spec. Any less and the autoadjusters will fail to operate resulting in a siezed caliper and non-functioning handbrake. If you're lucky, following this procedure will give you your handbrake back and unsieze your caliper. I've done this many times on Rover 800s, a 600 (5th gen Accord with different badges) or two, 5th gen Accord Coupe and several other models that use similar designs of caliper. Too many "mechanics" have been to the "Ford School of Handbrake Adjustment" where the handbrake should be on at 2-3 clicks. They think Hondas should be the same! Do not be tempted to skip any of the above steps, particularly slackening the handbrake cable to start with and definitely don't alter the procedure - the handbrake cable should be slackened first and adjusted last. Failing to observe that will give problems. The same procedure applies to changing rear pads and must be followed or this will happen. Hope you can save the caliper!

It may be savable - how many clicks was it (before the problem) to get the handbrake on full? I've got an idea what may have happened and that's the first question........

I believe if you can prove the car ws built before i think it's 1/3/2001, you can stay on the "old" tax bracket. I would guess the 3.0 is in the next bracket up, same as my CR-V is - despite being a 2.0 because it's seen as a 4x4 (it's actually AWD) it incurs the "Cheslea tractor tax" of more normal 4x4s so is in the sam band as my Jag would be if that was post-2001 as well.

If the 3.0 is before 2001, it's the same. Only "tax breaks" you get on pre-2001 cars comes at 1549cc or below, then those are cheaper. Not sure about diseasels but fairly sure they're the same as well. Another thing to consider if you're trying to "save" money by getting a more (allegedly) economical car is that you've owned yours a while now, it will no doubt cost you money to "trade-up" and then you still don't know what you're getting. This means you could unwittingly "invest" in a mobile money-pit - i've had exactly this with my CR-V, it's a 2.0 so should have been more economical than a 2.8 V6 Volvo, correct? Nah! Thanks to an intermittent problem with the brakes (which has made it incredibly difficult to diagnose and i've become guilty of firing the parts-cannon on an "edumacated guess" plus a couple of definite problems i've found along the way) i'm lucky to see 17-18mpg in normal running. The Volvo (despite a few problems when it dropped to that) was generally 22-26mpg on the same running. Factor this scenario in and it makes much more sense to keep what you've got, assuming you're happy with the car.

That is very nice but i dont like the price! Maybe if i win the lottery tonight............................................

Looks like they use a lot of Fords to me? https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Los_Angeles_Police_Department_resources#Patrol_cars That tells more, seems they also use Dodge Chargers/Challengers and a couple of Chevy models too.

I can see my neighbours excreting blocks of American building material if i drove that round here!

If it's just a month or two that would be a good idea. However, i could be wrong but i think Petes life/priorities etc have changed so much it won't just be a few months at the most and to be honest, that would be unkind to the car, not to mention expensive to recommission afterwards. Hopefully things will change back for him before he has to take a permanent decision though!

Evil entities! Salt fairies need to go and live somewhere else and make the car owners of that country worry instead! While they're at it the sunshine fairies can move in to take their paces here! Would be quite happy to have 20C winters with plenty of sun and 35C summers............

I can't always get away with that though as some of my (not quite next door) neighbours are biligual and/or multilingual - sometimes it's hard enough to understand their normal "English" as Americans use different words for many things - for example, we call it a "bum-bag", they call it a "fanny-pack". The list is endless and causes great confusion (and often comedy!)

Your neighbours learned some (more) new swear words then? My neigbours vocabulary has grown over the years for similar reasons!

Looks good! (BTW it's the "Direct Link" you need to copy/paste.........)

The other unseen advantage of waiting until the better weather is that if there is any nasty rust lurking, you will be able to repair it before applying the rust conversion/prevention stuff - some of it can be flammable making welding a bit tricky! It's always a bit of a Catch-22 though, if you don't apply it now, the rust could end up worse but if you do, you'll have to take it off to weld it and then re-apply. A constant struggle to keep on top of the dreaded tinworm!

Good news on curing the coolant leak! Most on here recommend Bilt Hamber, however i've just had this stuff recommended to me by a friend. As he said, what the long term protection will be like remains to be seen but he applied it with a plant sprayer or an empty cleaning bottle sprayer. I'm planning on using an electric sprayer but apparently it's thin stuff, like water in consistency so should get into all nooks and crannies and gets rid of surface rust leaving a primed surface. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175894969723 Reading some reviews on it, it doesn't seem that great but something that comes up on a general search (and would have been my "go to" as they've been around a long time and originally developed for use by the Royal Navy) is this : https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09SM5F83T No doubt available on ebay too! *** EDIT *** Just lookoed on ebay, they are on there but also a 500ml bottle that you can decant into a plant or electric sprayer : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/175841650568 As we all know, aerosol pushes the price up for the same volume but is much easier to apply.

Same as me i expect, personal expereience! Had one as a company car which inspired me to get my own years later. It was my own that i discovered it could swap ends easily with. Probably a lot to do with the Mk2 Escrot leaf springs on the back end............

If it was a 2.2 auto i'd probably be biting your hands off for a deal - my favourite colour on this gen. Hope someone takes it on, still plenty of life left in the wee beastie!

The Japanese ethos back then didn't include rustproofing as they didn't know about it - hence the "Jap-Crap" reputation for rotting out in the 70s and 80s. Now they do it better than anyone on the planet in general. Oddball Dutch design sharing driveline architecture with certain Porshe models - Volvos "secret weapon" as it wasn't a pantechnicon only slightly nippier than an HGV, the 360GLT actually went like stink! Despite copying the Porsche layout of front engine/rear transaxle, the 360 could be very tail happy..........

It was inevitable - get people using an allegedly green vehicle then hammer the bejesus out of them in taxes - after all they have more money than sense already so why not deprive them of their ill-goten gains?

Very nice!

Wow, you're braver than me - it's still about -4C here! Good to know that the problem is obvious, keep an eye on it after renewing the clamp just in case the end of the hose has gone soft though.

Maybe but Mr MoT-man - he say "No!"

Sadly they won't fit my CR-V or i probably would.............

Chances are they'll be Right Hand Dip in that case so the opposite to what we need here where the light beams dip towards the left but kick-up to show road signs etc better leaving the area to the right of the car (where oncoming traffic is) darker so you don't dazzle oncoming traffic. Foreign headlamps dip the opposite way so oncoming traffic is dazzled worse on dipped beam than on main beam - loads of US spec cars round here with US spec headlaights and don't i knw it after dark!

There is always one dissenter - i like those lights! Honda made the 2nd gen CR-V with square (ish) headlamps and on the facelift fitted lights with two round reflectors in the same housing as the pre-facelift. I keep thinking about "updating" my lights which would be a very similar look to what you have there. Of course if you want the original look then the original lights are what you need to go for and it's what you want/like as it's your car.

Most of us use postimages, upload your pics and then use the "Direct Link" and paste it in your post where you want it - saves forum space and you can cross-post the pic to other fora and emails that way.