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Stevies V6 making her my own.


SteviesV6

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On 7/24/2022 at 8:13 AM, SteviesV6 said:

this orange illumination wire that needs to be cut and taped off am I right?

Yup that's the one to isolate. 👍

On 7/24/2022 at 8:13 AM, SteviesV6 said:

It seems the ball joint I had fitted is knocking either that or something else on the drivers side which is a pain as it's only been on a month or so 😐 

I would check that everything is tight, could be a drop link has given up?

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On 7/26/2022 at 2:17 PM, hughezee said:

Yup that's the one to isolate. 👍

I would check that everything is tight, could be a drop link has given up?

Ah wicked cheers pal and yes I shall get underneath and have a look

Sooo I've just purchased some new wheels 😁

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IMG-20220802-WA0000.jpg

So these are the new wheels from an accord tourer. Big tyres on them at 225/55/17. Rear tyres are good but the fronts are a couple of mil shy of being illegal so will be swapping out for 225/45/17 once I get my lowering springs.

That brings my first question of which lowering springs would be best?

Next is I've got a cabin filter but it looks a slight arse to do or just lots to be taken off to get 2 it, the 1 I bought is a 1 piece but the vids I've watched are 2 pieces. The part numbers seem to tally up.

I'm going to change the stereo then fit my brembo pads at the front.

 

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4 hours ago, PTR200S said:

Like the wheels, look good on there !

Lowering springs here.

 

And check out this for the cabin/ pollen filters,  yes two required.

 

 

Hey cheers pal, I got the air filter and cabin filter and both seem wrong 

IMG-20220805-094740.jpg

 

And this was the cabin filter they sent.both from separate places 

IMG-20220805-094658.jpg

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2 hours ago, SteviesV6 said:

I got the air filter and cabin filter and both seem wrong 

The aftermarket parts data is incorrect its been discussed many times and only a few companies actually get some bits correct. Anyway from a quick glance, the parts you have are for the 1998-2002 CH7 Accord, the parts you need are linked below.👌

108138.jpg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291744123264?

147544.jpg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234572432777?

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1 hour ago, hughezee said:

The aftermarket parts data is incorrect its been discussed many times and only a few companies actually get some bits correct. Anyway from a quick glance, the parts you have are for the 1998-2002 CH7 Accord, the parts you need are linked below.👌

108138.jpg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/291744123264?

147544.jpg

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/234572432777?

You guys on this forum are bloody awesome 😁 thank you so much, oh I got the message thank you about the meet but won't be able to make it as I'm in Scarborough on a little yearly family outing.

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On 8/5/2022 at 1:30 PM, SteviesV6 said:

oh I got the message thank you about the meet but won't be able to make it as I'm in Scarborough on a little yearly family outing.

Hope you have a great time FYI: I did have the correct filters at the meet, would have fitted them too 😉 anyway hopefully see you at the next one...

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On 8/6/2022 at 10:59 PM, hughezee said:

Hope you have a great time FYI: I did have the correct filters at the meet, would have fitted them too 😉 anyway hopefully see you at the next one...

Noooo god dam bigger bums, I do hope to be at the next one.

I've been cleaning up the front brakes this morning with a plan to put the brembo pads on but guess what!!!!! They don't fit. They look to be the same size but even after a thorough clean up and copper grease on the edges they are just waay to tight. 

I'm going to put the Amsoil ATF fluid in now then attempt the cabin filter 

IMG-20220809-083024.jpg

 

IMG-20220809-083036.jpg

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Brakes done but.......the passenger side caliper well the piston you can see nearest it's seized and I could only get it to move back a little bit which would explain the scraping. The other one moves freely, does anyone have a spare passenger caliper in good working order please? 😢

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When you say "too tight" do you mean the ears on the pads don't fit ?

Have you had the stainless steel clip off too? Cleaned into the corners before refitting ?

If you have and still too tight , grind off a small amount off the ears until it fits neatly. I often do this to new pads....

 

Re calipers replacement can't help with this BUT,  again, "seized " definitely the pistons or is it the slider mechanism? The latter tends to be the problem usually .

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8 hours ago, SteviesV6 said:

the piston you can see nearest it's seized

I had a similar problem, In my case it was rust on the piston itself. 

I pushed out the piston 3/4 of the way through the seal (try not to push the piston all the way out of the seal though you can possibly push it all the way out of the housing whilst keeping the rearmost part of the piston in the seal {it is a real problem to get the piston back in the seal so be warned!!!]).  If you do somehow get the piston out of the seal, good luck getting the seal to go back over the piston.  That is sheer trial & error.  Do not use anything sharp else you will split the seal....

Using 3000 wet & dry I sanded off the rust on the outer 2/3rds of the piston (generally it is just rust on the piston itself causing the sticking problem).  A generous dose of rubber grease on the sanded piston is advised after the event. In my case that worked fine and I am happily re-using the caliper without any obvious issue.

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10 hours ago, SteviesV6 said:

Brakes done but.......the passenger side caliper well the piston you can see nearest it's sized and I could only get it to move back a little bit which would explain the scraping. The other one moves freely, does anyone have a spare passenger caliper in good working order please? 😢

Bigg Red have rebuild kits with new pistons, they are not expensive.

https://www.biggred.co.uk/honda-accord-mk-vii-coupe-cg-2997-1998-2003-petrol-engine-vehicle-10240/product/brkp-caliper-piston-kits/kit-and-piston-set-single-brkp49s

 

I'm in a minority in thinking that the original Coupe alloys are some of the nicest alloys out there, the simple 5 spoke design compliments the clean design of the Coupes so well, for my eyes the alloys you have on there are little too modern and not quite in keeping with the car. The Accord Type R alloys form around the same time suit them as do the Wheels Stu has on his car as they are of the same design age for the car.

It's your car though and your cracking through the jobs at a decent speed, she will certainly be a great car when your finished and its great to see someone so enthusiastic about looking after a coupe!

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10 hours ago, PTR200S said:

When you say "too tight" do you mean the ears on the pads don't fit ?

Have you had the stainless steel clip off too? Cleaned into the corners before refitting ?

If you have and still too tight , grind off a small amount off the ears until it fits neatly. I often do this to new pads....

 

Re calipers replacement can't help with this BUT,  again, "seized " definitely the pistons or is it the slider mechanism? The latter tends to be the problem usually .

Hey mate yeh the ears just didn't go in without a gentle persuasive whack. I cleaned everything up and wire brushed too then copper greased the edges and back faces of the old pads after I'd cleaned those up, tbh the old pads have plenty of meat left on them, the sliders were jammed when I got the car but they are fully free now and red rubber greased up. Definitely the piston tho, wierd thing I noticed on the drivers front caliper which was the side that the pads were completely stuck in was that the piston rubber seal wasn't neatly concertinad in it looked unevan if you know what I mean compared to the passenger side.

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4 hours ago, PaulS said:

I had a similar problem, In my case it was rust on the piston itself. 

I pushed out the piston 3/4 of the way through the seal (try not to push the piston all the way out of the seal though you can possibly push it all the way out of the housing whilst keeping the rearmost part of the piston in the seal {it is a real problem to get the piston back in the seal so be warned!!!]).  If you do somehow get the piston out of the seal, good luck getting the seal to go back over the piston.  That is sheer trial & error.  Do not use anything sharp else you will split the seal....

Using 3000 wet & dry I sanded off the rust on the outer 2/3rds of the piston (generally it is just rust on the piston itself causing the sticking problem).  A generous dose of rubber grease on the sanded piston is advised after the event. In my case that worked fine and I am happily re-using the caliper without any obvious issue.

Mate I wish I had your confidence doing that sort of stuff but I'd need someone competent with me incase I balls it up, I do appreciate the advice and if I can actually get a day off I may just give it a go, could I just leave the pads in and push the pedal so hopefully exposing enough of the piston to clean it?

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Doubt if you would get enough piston exposed with the pads in.  However if you found some material (thick cardboard would do at a pinch, wood better) as thin as the pad's metal backing plate, that should do it.

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2 hours ago, Cryistic said:

Bigg Red have rebuild kits with new pistons, they are not expensive.

https://www.biggred.co.uk/honda-accord-mk-vii-coupe-cg-2997-1998-2003-petrol-engine-vehicle-10240/product/brkp-caliper-piston-kits/kit-and-piston-set-single-brkp49s

 

I'm in a minority in thinking that the original Coupe alloys are some of the nicest alloys out there, the simple 5 spoke design compliments the clean design of the Coupes so well, for my eyes the alloys you have on there are little too modern and not quite in keeping with the car. The Accord Type R alloys form around the same time suit them as do the Wheels Stu has on his car as they are of the same design age for the car.

It's your car though and your cracking through the jobs at a decent speed, she will certainly be a great car when your finished and its great to see someone so enthusiastic about looking after a coupe!

That's a proper decent price mate for a rebuild kit.

You know what at the start when I got the car I loved the wheels and if they'd have been 17inch I'd have probably kept them on but these I have now I just love the 2 tone look because at a quick glance they do look like 5 spoke, yes the accord type r wheels are nice but I couldn't find a decent set and these came up and thought I'd give them a try.

Cheers pal I appreciate the confidence boost, I made a huge list of jobs to on her but changed phones and forgot the notes list of the old one. I've documented every job I've done and kept all receipts.

I am enjoying getting her right 😄

 

 

 

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9 minutes ago, PaulS said:

Doubt if you would get enough piston exposed with the pads in.  However if you found some material (thick cardboard would do at a pinch, wood better) as thin as the pad's metal backing plate, that should do it.

Ah bugger not even 1 pad? 

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So jobs done this morning, I don't start work till 10am so was up a little after 6 to crack on with car job, front brakes serviced, Amsoil ATF fluid in then work, got home from work had a little snooze then decided at half 7 to tackle the cabin filter, 🙄 wow is all I can say what a mare of a job, I watched a YouTube video thankfully as there were a couple of hidden screws, the glovebox did not want to come out and just as I was at the point of fuck it I'm done the glovebox just went pop and out she came, old filters were manky so we're definitely due to be done. 

I've ordered new Honda to generic iso then generic to Sony iso, is it just the orange wire I need to cut to stop it interfering with the cars illumination? 

I've test fitted the Sony in the cars original frame above the headlight level switch and it fits but there are little locating nubbles next to the screw holes which I need to grind off to get a flush fit.

Next job then will be finding a subtle spoiler. Not sure if the next generation of accord spoilers fit.

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2 hours ago, SteviesV6 said:

Hey mate yeh the ears just didn't go in without a gentle persuasive whack.

 

Definitely the piston tho, wierd thing I noticed on the drivers front caliper which was the side that the pads were completely stuck in was that the piston rubber seal wasn't neatly concertinad in it looked unevan if you know what I mean compared to the passenger side.

Definitely grind the ears a little, don't go mad, the top short edge first to see if it's the length, and then a little off the sides so that on a dry fit it drops in easily.

 

Re the rubber seal, put a piece of wood or similar in the caliper, as Paul  suggests , about the thickness of a pad plus a disk thickness, and then press brake pedal until it pushes piston out about 1/4 to 3/8ths of an inch. The wood stops it going too far .  Let that dust seal out too...

Squirt brake cleaner around piston and under and around the dust seal and clean it thoroughly...if minor rust then clean as Paul suggests.. then clean again with brake cleaner, plenty on to get all the dust residue out....

Then , when happy , wipe a bit of  brake fluid , around piston and push back in....squirt a bit of wd or gt85 to help ease the dust seal back if needed, bit of rubber grease maybe, that seal should be soft and wrinkle free.....and sit properly like the other one.

Also copper grease is not good on brake pads...when it gets hot it dries up and makes them stick !!!  Use some proper ceramic brake grease, like Mintex Ceratec. 

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On 8/10/2022 at 1:24 AM, PTR200S said:

Definitely grind the ears a little, don't go mad, the top short edge first to see if it's the length, and then a little off the sides so that on a dry fit it drops in easily.

 

Re the rubber seal, put a piece of wood or similar in the caliper, as Paul  suggests , about the thickness of a pad plus a disk thickness, and then press brake pedal until it pushes piston out about 1/4 to 3/8ths of an inch. The wood stops it going too far .  Let that dust seal out too...

Squirt brake cleaner around piston and under and around the dust seal and clean it thoroughly...if minor rust then clean as Paul suggests.. then clean again with brake cleaner, plenty on to get all the dust residue out....

Then , when happy , wipe a bit of  brake fluid , around piston and push back in....squirt a bit of wd or gt85 to help ease the dust seal back if needed, bit of rubber grease maybe, that seal should be soft and wrinkle free.....and sit properly like the other one.

Also copper grease is not good on brake pads...when it gets hot it dries up and makes them stick !!!  Use some proper ceramic brake grease, like Mintex Ceratec. 

Hey thanks mate much appreciation for the advice, once cleaned up will the piston just slide back in? I bought some ceratec stuff so will tackle on Friday.

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