Moderators PTR200S Posted October 19, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 Bugg%$, its died again........ Just needed to take other half to tip,,,, erm, no didn't mean that exactly Was going to take some stuff to the tip and taking other half with me as well on a shopping trip afterwards... loaded up Coupe, got in just turns over and can't hear the click of the relay......... what a pain, weekend job coming on.......... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted October 19, 2017 Author Administrators Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 Sorry to hear this mate 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted October 19, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 Likewise! By sheer coincidence the postie has just delivered one : Easy to see why it won't start! The three pads in a row on the left all have dry joints that are easy to see, however all the other joints look dry when viewed from different angles and under different lighting. Something to play with later - all joints will be serviced, old solder removed with solder sucker and new solder (leaded this time!) applied. It's done well though, it's from a 1990 827 Sterling! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted October 19, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted October 19, 2017 Just got back from work, not dark yet so went out to play in the footwell.....and it piss$% it down, it did that the last time too If it is this then I guess its another soldered joint that's gone. I only did the one joint I could see was dry more as an experiment and quick fix, meant to get it out again and completely redo it........... yes, yes, I know you all said to do them all in one go! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted October 21, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted October 21, 2017 Been out first thing this morning and taken out relay... The ONLY joint that is bad is the one I redid last time no idea why, as it seemed ok after i had done it. So desoldered and sucked off all old solder down to holes !!! Redid it again plugged it into loom car fired first time. The question now is why did that joint go bad again? Maybe i didn't get it right but if i did is there a possibility that the joint is creating enough heat to degrade the solder ?? I can't see how though. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted October 21, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted October 21, 2017 6 minutes ago, PTR200S said: The question now is why did that joint go bad again? I think you've answered your own question there Pete. If you didn't desolder all the way down to the holes last time, there's the probability some of the old, unleaded solder was still present which would contaminate the "new" joint. That bad, old solder would create enough heat through increased resistance with the current the fuel pump pulls and any heat in the car, whether from the heater or ambient will contribute too. On a similar theme, after sorting the one the postie brought me the other day, i put it in mine to test it and it started a lot easier. As such i decided to inspect mine and found that although it still looks pretty good, like you i'd only done the one suspect joint, to prove it was indeed that joint. Thinking back now i remember at the time intending to have it back out and do the rest to be on the safe side - guess what i'll be doing today! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted October 21, 2017 Author Administrators Report Share Posted October 21, 2017 The revised relay has a much bigger circuit track to cope with the stresses and to date haven't fixed the newer unit as of yet??? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welland99 Posted November 5, 2017 Report Share Posted November 5, 2017 On 15/11/2016 at 9:36 PM, hughezee said: Siemens USA VRM-0022 was the original part Richie and the new one is a Mitsuba RZ-0159 Also coincidentally Geoff will be hear very soon to have one swapped, so which shall it be the new version or the classic I have two spares. My original one which is faulty was a pektron 39400-s1a-g010 a-0308g03. I removed this some years ago to replace it with another from a breakers. I also have a spare from the breakers labelled Siemens vrm 0022. Unfortunately, when I tried it in the car last week, it didn't work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted November 6, 2017 Author Administrators Report Share Posted November 6, 2017 2 hours ago, welland99 said: pektron 39400-s1a-g010 a-0308g03 The Pektron relay was the only factory fitted to the European Accord as it was a UK supplied part, there was a FREE relay replacement for 2.0L regarding no starts and many were replaced and this could explain the Pektron being fitted to yours. Anyway sorry to hear you still having trouble with your coupe, have you attempted the basics i.e fuel pressure or a spark test or are you way ahead of my suggestion? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welland99 Posted November 7, 2017 Report Share Posted November 7, 2017 On 06/11/2017 at 12:41 AM, hughezee said: The Pektron relay was the only factory fitted to the European Accord as it was a UK supplied part, there was a FREE relay replacement for 2.0L regarding no starts and many were replaced and this could explain the Pektron being fitted to yours. Anyway sorry to hear you still having trouble with your coupe, have you attempted the basics i.e fuel pressure or a spark test or are you way ahead of my suggestion? Interesting history about the pektron. Mine is running perfectly well with a fly lead I have rigged up from the fuel pump to a plug in the cigar lighter. I must get my soldering iron out to try to fix one of my broken ones........... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mangoman Posted November 8, 2017 Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 12 hours ago, welland99 said: Interesting history about the pektron. Mine is running perfectly well with a fly lead I have rigged up from the fuel pump to a plug in the cigar lighter. I must get my soldering iron out to try to fix one of my broken ones........... I know a lot of electrical parts are repairable, but for the sake of 60 odd quid, (less than what you would pay for a meal for 2 at a restaurant these days!) surely it would be beneficial to just purchase a new one...??? That's what I did and I'm so poor I can't even pay attention... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted November 8, 2017 Author Administrators Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 With you're wiring mod Peter proves it's a relay problem, so I would just buy a new one as Bill suggested 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welland99 Posted November 8, 2017 Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 8 hours ago, hughezee said: With you're wiring mod Peter proves it's a relay problem, so I would just buy a new one as Bill suggested But you make it sound so easy to repair, that I can't let that opportunity to save money pass by. Do you have one available, in case my efforts don't work? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted November 8, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted November 8, 2017 13 minutes ago, welland99 said: But you make it sound so easy to repair, If you can fly a soldering iron and pilot a solder-sucker, have some good quality tin/lead solder, a stiff nylon brush or soft brass brush, some IPA and clear lacquer, it is. Work methodically, one joint at a time, heat the joint up, add a little fresh solder to help the old stuff flow into the solder-sucker, remove the old solder then apply fresh. When all the joints are done, give it scrub with the brush to remove the loose stuff then use the IPA to clean it with the brush and to rinse it after. Allow to dry then check it all. If it all looks good, give it a coat or two of clear lacquer to protect it. Put it back together and test but if you've done every joint, you should be fine. Refit properly and enjoy! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mangoman Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 11 hours ago, welland99 said: But you make it sound so easy to repair, that I can't let that opportunity to save money pass by. Do you have one available, in case my efforts don't work? I agree, if you have another car you can use whilst repairing just in case it doesn't work and then have to wait a couple of days for a replacement, yes.... It's just that personally with certain electrical components I prefer new, if cheap enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welland99 Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 23 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said: If you can fly a soldering iron and pilot a solder-sucker, have some good quality tin/lead solder, a stiff nylon brush or soft brass brush, some IPA and clear lacquer, it is. Work methodically, one joint at a time, heat the joint up, add a little fresh solder to help the old stuff flow into the solder-sucker, remove the old solder then apply fresh. When all the joints are done, give it scrub with the brush to remove the loose stuff then use the IPA to clean it with the brush and to rinse it after. Allow to dry then check it all. If it all looks good, give it a coat or two of clear lacquer to protect it. Put it back together and test but if you've done every joint, you should be fine. Refit properly and enjoy! I am handy with a soldering iron, and a new solder sucker has been ordered. What is IPA? India Pale Ale? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welland99 Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 I did an audit of my three relays today. 1) My original relay is a pektron. I retired it several years ago when it was playing up intermittently. I tested it today and it worked. 2) 1st replacement from a breakers was also a pektron. This was fitted to replace the original and worked fine for several years. It skipped the intermittent fault and went straight to the not working state. 3) 2nd replacement, siemens, also came from the breakers at the same time as No2. I tried it for the first time last week, but it didn't work. I figured that it was best to try to fix the dead pektron, than to try to cure the intermittently-working one. This way, if it starts to work, I know i've fixed it. So, I have now installed the original pektron and plan to have a go at fixing the dead pektron soonish. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted November 9, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 1 hour ago, welland99 said: What is IPA? India Pale Ale? That's one incarnation of IPA! In this one though it's Iso Propyl Alcohol : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Isopropanol-99-9-ACS-Isopropyl-Alcohol-100ml-Pump-Spray-Fast-Shipment/142061408777?hash=item2113851209:g:r~UAAOSwzgRWzx1D I thought i had mentioned what IPA stood for, sorry about that! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welland99 Posted November 9, 2017 Report Share Posted November 9, 2017 3 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: That's one incarnation of IPA! In this one though it's Iso Propyl Alcohol : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Isopropanol-99-9-ACS-Isopropyl-Alcohol-100ml-Pump-Spray-Fast-Shipment/142061408777?hash=item2113851209:g:r~UAAOSwzgRWzx1D I thought i had mentioned what IPA stood for, sorry about that! I knew that. (after i googled it!) Is it any good for cleaning my nail varnish? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted November 10, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 No good at all - for that you need acetone! When you've finished with your claws, mix some of the left over acetone with some ATF for an amazing penetrating fluid - i call it "WMP" or Weapon of Mass Penetration. Severely corroded front pipe to catalyst nuts/bolts, no problem! Similar turbo flange to downpipe flange bolts, not been touched in 20 years and lived by the sea, squirt of WMP, left it a few minutes, undone with virtually no effort! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welland99 Posted November 11, 2017 Report Share Posted November 11, 2017 On 09/11/2017 at 10:24 PM, welland99 said: I did an audit of my three relays today. 1) My original relay is a pektron. I retired it several years ago when it was playing up intermittently. I tested it today and it worked. 2) 1st replacement from a breakers was also a pektron. This was fitted to replace the original and worked fine for several years. It skipped the intermittent fault and went straight to the not working state. 3) 2nd replacement, siemens, also came from the breakers at the same time as No2. I tried it for the first time last week, but it didn't work. I figured that it was best to try to fix the dead pektron, than to try to cure the intermittently-working one. This way, if it starts to work, I know i've fixed it. So, I have now installed the original pektron and plan to have a go at fixing the dead pektron soonish. My solder sucker duly arrived, so I had a go at repairs this evening. I first had a go with the dead pektron (no 2). There was one joint that looked really bad, so I tried re-doing that one first. Made no difference. So tried re-doing all of the joints, but it was still dead. Then I had a go On the dead Siemens (no 3). None of the joints looked at all bad, so didn't hold out much hope. I started off by unsoldering the 7 joints that hold the plug to the board, then I removed the board to get a good look at the relays. The relays all looked fine, so I put the plug back on and set about unsoldering all the other joints too. Then resoldered all joints and took it outside to test on the car. IT WORKS. to quote Jeremy Clarkson, "I've mended it!" Yay! 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted March 28, 2018 Moderators Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 Another failure of the relay yesterday , not sure why yet but I am thinking on getting a new one if available... Does someone have a part number for the relay or even has one spare to sell? I have a part number 39793 SV 4003 Mitsuba but not sure if this is the one? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 28, 2018 Moderators Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 I believe Stu has some in stock Pete. Usually if you've resoldered it then it's good for some considerable time though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted March 28, 2018 Moderators Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 Officially having a bad day.... Just taken off the offending part and its one like Bills !!! A Siemans vrm 0022 . Still, as Stu says Mitsuba is the new version so I presume I can fit that..... What is even more concerning is that this has been off twice before...i need to go and lie down...... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mangoman Posted March 28, 2018 Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 1 hour ago, PTR200S said: Officially having a bad day.... Just taken off the offending part and its one like Bills !!! A Siemans vrm 0022 . Still, as Stu says Mitsuba is the new version so I presume I can fit that..... What is even more concerning is that this has been off twice before...i need to go and lie down...... Hi Pete. As far as I know, (which is very little) the Siemens is an Original Part. The Replacement I got was a Mitsuba as far as I can remember.... P/N 39400-S84-003. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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