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Road Noise & Suppression Tips 1998 1999 2000 2001 CG Accord Coupe


hughezee

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  • 9 months later...
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Yes m8y although I've mainly used it for car audio, inside door panels to enhance sound quality, even Geoff's current car has it behind the rear Bose sub sounded allot better worked the same as dynamat at a fraction of the cost ;) The only snag with flashband if used for sound proofing it has to be sealed no gaps in it to deflect sound, so I usually use something to catch/ absorb the sound I don't want e.g thicker carpet ect

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  • 2 years later...
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Having spent the last few days at high speed , no not me the Coupe and "at" not "on" speed!!! 

I have come to the conclusion I need some sound deadening in the car...

is dynamat the only thing to use or is there a recommended alternative???

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Thanks for that, is there a recommended supplier or just search the net? 

I understand that dynamat is really for audiophiles???!!!!  

I just want to knock off the road noise from the tyres, is it better to tackle the wheel arches first and see if it helps or are there other areas of the car that people have found create the noise?

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3 hours ago, PTR200S said:

is it better to tackle the wheel arches first and see if it helps

I was very impressed after resealing my rear wheel arches and along with cavity sealing with wax my coupe is one of quietest motors I've been in  TBH

 

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Hmm, that's interesting, i presume there are airgaps then where old sealant has dropped off? Or is it just a volume of stuff to stop the panels resonating?

If the latter, then maybe the old style sticky pads for panels we used to use a lot of years ago :rolleyes:will help too? 

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1 minute ago, PTR200S said:

Hmm, that's interesting, i presume there are airgaps then where old sealant has dropped off? Or is it just a volume of stuff to stop the panels resonating?

If the latter, then maybe the old style sticky pads for panels we used to use a lot of years ago :rolleyes:will help too? 

There were plenty of cracks in the original factory sealant, so you could seal the whole area and leave one gap and you wouldn't notice much improvement as it all needs covering to get the best results. ;) 

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Dynamat has been around for donkeys years, i remember seeing adverts for it in the back of Custom Car that my elder brother used to buy in the early 70s.

I bought a roll of self-adhesive sound proofing some time ago, haven't used it yet but will soon. It was about 5m long and about a metre wide for about £30 delivered. If memory serves one side also had foil on to insulate thermally as well as acoustically.

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Hello mate...this is what I used a couple of years ago and was very impressed with how solid and weighty the doors sounded when closing.I would use a deadening material to reduce resonating/vibrating and then a underlay like Stu to sound proof.....they both do different jobs and have different qualities 

 

 

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Still haven't bought the pads and now they are out of stock :(...

There will be more coming apparently...

Anyway , in an effort to push it on a bit further I though I would drop the back seats and have a look at the rear of the arches etc,,,, every clip holding all the trim on is missing :(

Someone has had it all apart in the past, shocks tops look new, maybe have been replaced so going to have to have a poke around further and see what to do, may just be a case of soundproofing and clipping it all back together properly... here's hoping...

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6 minutes ago, PTR200S said:

Still haven't bought the pads and now they are out of stock :(...

This might help then :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5m-Roll-Car-Sound-Proofing-Deadening-Motorhome-Van-Insulation-Closed-Cell-Foam/262418073207?hash=item3d19560677:g:TosAAOSwubRXNXtk

A 5m roll of sound deadening closed-cell foam, cut your own pads and do a few other bits too! ;):D

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15 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said:

This might help then :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5m-Roll-Car-Sound-Proofing-Deadening-Motorhome-Van-Insulation-Closed-Cell-Foam/262418073207?hash=item3d19560677:g:TosAAOSwubRXNXtk

A 5m roll of sound deadening closed-cell foam, cut your own pads and do a few other bits too! ;):D

Same company too! looks a better deal too :D  ... and I have a sharp pair of scissors, mind you, don't need them really, swmbo can cut anything at ten paces......:P

They do 3m of this stuff too but its out of stock as well! anyway, ordered 5m got plenty of things I can stick it on!!;) thanks Dave

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  • 2 weeks later...
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Ok, all stuff arrived so now to strip the back out of the Coupe.

Anyone any views on if its worth doing inside the boot? up the sides for instance?

Over the petrol tank top?

Obviously I will be doing the wheel arches and under the rear seat when i figure out how to get there !:rolleyes:

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I'd do the wheel arches in the boot and the inside of the rear wings after removing the trim of course. Also the underneath of the parcel shelf - it's metal and i've known mine to vibrate at times.

I'm assuming your boot mat is similar to the Rover ones, grey mat glued onto a piece of hardboard over the spare wheel well? I removed the carpet from the hardboard (wasn't difficult, the glue had more or less dissolved over the years!) and fitted some foam/sponge carpet underlay to the carpet and then the hardboard back on the bottom, this worked wonders for sound insulation! It's also cheaper than using the expensive sound foam to do it! Gives your boot mat a "luxury" feel as well and means the bit over where the fuel tank is gets covered but can be removed as easily as removing the boot mat.

As for the rear seat cushion, i'm thinking it's almost certainly the same idea as mine - kneel on the front edge of it facing backwards, put your hands in the gap between the cushion and backrest/squab and pull towards the front/top of windscreen. When the rear end of the cushion is free, lift the front end out of the holes/grommets that the hooks sit in. Worth double-checking with Stu on this one as they may have hidden a bolt or three somewhere to minimise vibration from the rear seat cushion. ;):D

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Good idea on the boot mat, Dave, I have managed to do the drivers side of the boot today, in between jobs :rolleyes:.... got some pics which I will post at some time when I finish the job completely.

Got to tackle the rear seat and the nearside boot tomorrow if I get a chance......however, tomorrows jobs include trying to get the rear door of a VW Polo open... locks or catch has jammed somehow:( so may not get on the Coupe.....

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Little idea i had for doing the floorpan under the seats Pete - use the OE car mats as a template but cut the sound foam about 1/4" smaller all round (thickness of the carpet) then fit it on the actual floorpan under the factory soundproofing. By making the pads smaller the carpet should follow it's original lines while still removing drumming and improving general sound reduction.

I haven't tried it yet so if you do it that way i'd love to know if my idea works, my roll of insulation is sat behind the sofa waiting for the warm, sunny day when i can change the carpet over! Then i'll do the sound proofing as well. ;):D

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Managed to do the nearside rear boot today but when I got to the back seat I couldn't get the base out..

Undone a 10mm head bolt at back of squab but cant get it out... Must be missing something somewhere, wondered if I need to take backs out first?

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14 minutes ago, PTR200S said:

Managed to do the nearside rear boot today but when I got to the back seat I couldn't get the base out..

Undone a 10mm head bolt at back of squab but cant get it out... Must be missing something somewhere, wondered if I need to take backs out first?

Once the 10mm bolt is loose enough, lift up the front of the rear bench seat/ base directly behind each front seat with a sharpish tug upwards this should free it from the two retaining clips underneath and then it should slide forward lifting it up in the process.

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