blackstreet62 Posted March 6, 2015 Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Hi Guys when driving at low speeds and going over speed bumps , i'm getting a knocking sound from the driverside footwell area ! i took off the driverside wheel and checked for anything loose, couldn't see anything that would be making those sound.Anyone got any clues what this could be ? cheers edwin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted March 6, 2015 Administrators Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 Just a few age & mileage related suggestions +pic's Check the upper arm ball joint for play give the wheel a pull from top to bottom any movement could also indicate a failed wheel bearing. The track/tie rod end joint could be a possibility Also could be a lower ball joint, the steering is usually effected as well though? Caliper slider pins can wear out or get bent out of shape, worth checking the brakes for binding anyway Finally my last suggestion would be my first check point, but since you said the anti-roll bar/ stabilizer links have been done I would double check they have in fact been done or no inferior parts have been fitted as cheapo ones will rattle after a few weeks 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackstreet62 Posted March 6, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 6, 2015 well I def would be giving those ideas a go, also as you said over the phone to check the exhaust knocking on the heat shield, I’ll check that tomorrow as I believe were going to have a heat wave tomorrow?? Of course we are...cheers again guys Edwin 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackstreet62 Posted March 8, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2015 well checked the exhaust and its def not that's as theres plenty of room for the exhaust, tried the passenger front wheel and on top there's play, as if the wheel bolts haven't been tighten, so as said stu its more than likely to be the upper wishbone arm (fingers crossed!!). Edwin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted March 10, 2015 Administrators Report Share Posted March 10, 2015 Hi buddy if you check this topic: http://honda6.ipbhost.com/index.php?/topic/1955-98-02-accord-coupe-shock-absorber-removal-front/ to get the shock assembly out Also the bolts pictured below are the final stage of the upper arm/wishbone removal 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted March 13, 2015 Administrators Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 Here’s one I replaced earlier 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackstreet62 Posted March 13, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 Nice one Stu,But do I have to take the whole shock out to get to the wishbone bolts? Edwin Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted March 13, 2015 Administrators Report Share Posted March 13, 2015 Nice one Stu,But do I have to take the whole shock out to get to the wishbone bolts? Edwin You can get to them to loosen them but you would really struggle to get them out if at all with the shock absorber in the way Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackstreet62 Posted March 15, 2015 Author Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Well I started on replacing the front passenger side upper wishbone, sussed out that this was making the knocking noises !! thought I could get the bolts out of the wishbone without taking the shock absorber out....but after a quick phone call to Stu, he advised that I would have to to take it to make life easier for me. And yes he was right those bolts would have never have the clearance to come out.so I managed after using lots of penetrating fluid and the shock came out quite easily. with the shock out the 2 x bolts for the wishbone came out quite quickly .and put the new one in reversal of taking out. bobs your uncle and it was done and NO knocking sounds on the left But there's a slight knocking on the right now ,But that can wait for another day......Stu did ask if I provide some picky, and I answered that cos I was just trying to get the job done that I should get it over asap . Plus I didn't want to get it dirty....But the moral of the story is if in doubt....ask Stu....I thank you.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member Mazda Man Posted March 15, 2015 Founding Member Report Share Posted March 15, 2015 Well done that man. You're learning, if in doubt it's far better to get a quick call into Stu and save yourself a load of grief and hassle. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welland99 Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 Well I started on replacing the front passenger side upper wishbone, sussed out that this was making the knocking noises !! If you don't mind me asking, how did you sus out the cause of the knocking? Could you feel play whem pulling the wheel when the wheel was off the ground? Have you had the noise for a long time or short time? Did you have the noise at the last MOT? I have had a clunking from the front for YEARS, but nothing is ever picked up in the MOT. So, I've not worried about it. I have therefore assumed that it can't be any of the ball joints as MOT testers are usually quite hot on failing / advising of play in the suspension joints. Beginning to wonder if it could be my front anti roll bar bushes. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted April 18, 2015 Administrators Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 Edwin replaced both upper arms as they did have play in the upper joint, but he still has a slight rattle coming from the drivers side, so I have advised to check the shock absorber area "Top" these sleeves often fail (replaced mine) or some people squeeze silicon into it, could be worth a look (as pictured below) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanoCoupe Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Hi all, replaced both rear droplinks on the Coupe last night hoping they would solve an issue.. If I go over any kind bump at moderate speed the car feels like its wandering at the back especially on mid corner bumps its quite pronounced now. Also noticed camber was out on rear so set both sides to max negative and still the nsr wheel is showing a positive camber. We briefly checked length of the arms etc and for play but nothing was obvious.. I am a little concerned there is something seriously wrong with the car now and panicking a bit. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted July 11, 2018 Administrators Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Sorry to hear of your troubles m8y, regards the messages we exchanged on FB, I would just get it looked at and make sure a bushing hasn't failed or something isn't loose hopefully its something simple. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanoCoupe Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Cheers Stu, can worn/shot bushes actually cause the symptoms above!? Doubly frustrated as im about to become unemployed too ? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member Brett Posted July 11, 2018 Founding Member Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 Hi Deano I had this on my 8th gen when I had rear arms replaced. The problem was the car was not loaded when new arms were fitted causing the rear to skip when hitting bumps. The correct way when replacing suspension parts is to fit them hand tight and drop the weight of the car then torque up. otherwise the car will be fighting with the bushes if tightened first if this makes sense. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanoCoupe Posted July 11, 2018 Report Share Posted July 11, 2018 3 hours ago, Brett said: Hi Deano I had this on my 8th gen when I had rear arms replaced. The problem was the car was not loaded when new arms were fitted causing the rear to skip when hitting bumps. The correct way when replacing suspension parts is to fit them hand tight and drop the weight of the car then torque up. otherwise the car will be fighting with the bushes if tightened first if this makes sense. Awww cheers for that! Would they be causing the dodgy camber too? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted July 12, 2018 Moderators Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 16 hours ago, DeanoCoupe said: Would they be causing the dodgy camber too? Quite likely but also worth checking the shocks are installed correctly at the top. I'm not 100% certain on whether Honda have done this but on some cars there is a facility to alter the camber by having the mounting studs for the top of the shock/strut slightly offset. Fitting the shock one way round produces x amount of camber, turning it round what would appear to be 180 degrees (but isn't) alters the camber to y amount. Could be worth checking but do like Brett suggests first, that is the primary cause of most misalignments on Hondas. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member Brett Posted July 12, 2018 Founding Member Report Share Posted July 12, 2018 16 hours ago, DeanoCoupe said: Awww cheers for that! Would they be causing the dodgy camber too? Quite possibly bud as the car is not planted to the ground as it should. Also worth considering after market adjustable camber arms if this don’t sort things. I had negative camber on mine and is a problem for the 8th and 7th gen Accord. im running adjustable rear ball joints on mine and has been spot on for 3 years. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanoCoupe Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 22 hours ago, Brett said: Quite possibly bud as the car is not planted to the ground as it should. Also worth considering after market adjustable camber arms if this don’t sort things. I had negative camber on mine and is a problem for the 8th and 7th gen Accord. im running adjustable rear ball joints on mine and has been spot on for 3 years. Thank you all for your advice. Like I said I have only replaced the two rear droplinks.. They were fully tightened before dropping the car. To try and explain, if I hit a bump(especially mid corner) it feels like the rear of the car is trying to go around the bump if that makes sense.... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted July 13, 2018 Moderators Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 That symptom sounds about right for the drop links being tightened with the wheels at full droop. Have you got a pair of ramps you can reverse the car up onto or better still, a 4-post ramp you can drive onto? If so, get the car up in the air supported by its wheels on whichever ramp(s) you have, loosen and retighten the drop link bolts and then go round all the other suspension bolts/nuts, giving them the same treatment. I'll be surprised if that doesn't cure it. If it doesn't, what wheel/tyre combo are you running and have you checked the wheel alignment (front and back, the rear can be adjusted too) as that can also cause it. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanoCoupe Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 49 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: That symptom sounds about right for the drop links being tightened with the wheels at full droop. Have you got a pair of ramps you can reverse the car up onto or better still, a 4-post ramp you can drive onto? If so, get the car up in the air supported by its wheels on whichever ramp(s) you have, loosen and retighten the drop link bolts and then go round all the other suspension bolts/nuts, giving them the same treatment. I'll be surprised if that doesn't cure it. If it doesn't, what wheel/tyre combo are you running and have you checked the wheel alignment (front and back, the rear can be adjusted too) as that can also cause it. Ahhhh! Ok no chance of ramp etc before next week but got a long journey tomorrow, is it basically safe until I can adjust them? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted July 13, 2018 Moderators Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 I don't see it would be unsafe as such as long as you drive with the knowledge the back end is a little skittish at the moment. Just be a bit careful on the bends, roundabouts etc. The good thing being FWD is you can usually drag the back end to where you want it by giving it some welly. Usually! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanoCoupe Posted July 13, 2018 Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 Slightly confused, surely tightening the drop links in the air makes no difference as they have a ball joint with free movement anyway??? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member Brett Posted July 13, 2018 Founding Member Report Share Posted July 13, 2018 22 minutes ago, DeanoCoupe said: Slightly confused, surely tightening the drop links in the air makes no difference as they have a ball joint with free movement anyway??? I think what Dave means is the car is up in the air to work on. A MOT ramp or pit would be the easiest as the cars weight is on the wheels. basicly if using a pit dive over and lift the rear end up with the sliding jack. undo all suspension bolts slightly and then lower the weight of the car back to normal. retighten all bolts job done. This way there is less movement against the bushes and less wear as well. You will be surprised how much turn on your bushes you will get by fitting joints with no car weight on them. This is the way Honda recommended in there workshop manuals but not many dealers follow this unfortunately. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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