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What Have You Done To Your Coupe Today


Mangoman

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56 minutes ago, Andy Mc said:

It was thanks, not an awful lot of choice out there eh. There's a couple breaking V6s. Sometimes if you put it on as 'watching' they'll send a reduced offer price the next day. This one didn't, but the guys breaking the black v6 do.

There's a wiper mechanism and motor up but its £35

No, just a black lug which is part of the rear moulding that a grey box slides onto. But nothing to obvious to pinch it to release. One from ebay was snapped off. Managed to slide mine of eventually, with a bang though. 

I had a boot bin off of this seller, to replace the 6xCD changer that was now superfluous following a stereo upgrade. He put it up for £25 and I made a counter offer of £18, which he accepted. Looks really neat now in the boot, and nearly symmetrical , and very Zen!! Also had the exhaust from them as well, which I put an offer in of £150 which was accepted, and came down on a pallet from Scotland (see previous posts). Good service I will say. My back yard is looking a bit like a scrap yard now though, what with bits off my StreetKa as well! That is a very fun car by the way! 

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1 hour ago, Andy Mc said:

Was a very good spot and investment that exhaust. And you're right, if you don't ask you don't get.

That's what I thought. They're not making any more exhausts for these.

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If anyone does have an exhaust that's getting near the end of its life, if they plan on keeping the car then it would be a wise move to start saving for a stainless system.

Chances are you could buy them off the peg in the USA (OBX Racing comes to mind as a brand likely to have them) or you could drive to an exhaust builder and have a stainless system made. Probably about £5-600 at a guess.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/163986752032

One from ebay.com, just as a starting point. Do your own checks as to S&H (aka P&P to us), Import VAT and any other taxes (some are paid at pint of sale and the item comes direct to you, others which seem cheaper you wait until the item is at our borders and HMRC determine how much you owe!) that may be due.

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6 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said:

If anyone does have an exhaust that's getting near the end of its life, if they plan on keeping the car then it would be a wise move to start saving for a stainless system.

Chances are you could buy them off the peg in the USA (OBX Racing comes to mind as a brand likely to have them) or you could drive to an exhaust builder and have a stainless system made. Probably about £5-600 at a guess.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/163986752032

One from ebay.com, just as a starting point. Do your own checks as to S&H (aka P&P to us), Import VAT and any other taxes (some are paid at pint of sale and the item comes direct to you, others which seem cheaper you wait until the item is at our borders and HMRC determine how much you owe!) that may be due.

Gulp !!!

At that price 300 dollars, it looks good until the shipping charge hits at over 800 dollars....and you WILL get hit for import tax and anything else they can shaft you for !!!

I can get a good system made up for half that shipping money, locally as you suggest.

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Today I drove about 30 miles,  this afternoon in fact, plenty of vtecing 🤣

Climate controls behaved themselves again,  fourth day since poking it with contact cleaner..except the last startup, it was off again but one push of the auto button and it was running .......think my car_parts_4_you climate unit needs fitting 🙃

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Just a fluid check for my Coupe today and another play with the none operational problem of the key fob...new battery in fob and a car battery "reset" has not resolved the issue.  I have now noticed the led on the fob isn't working....trouble is  I can't recall if this worked or not. The spare fob gave up sometime ago too but I have managed to find a "working internals" replacement on the net...just have to wait and see now.

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The "new" internals arrived today, for the fob, Omron G8D-452H-A version, three button.

Off the net from Northern Ireland , no border problem this way !!

£14.99 delivered , not cheap but cheaper than most, supposedly guaranteed and RF (!!!) tested.

Pulled the current fob apart, inserted new bits into old housing along with the new diaphragm I got last year. There was one sent with it but it already had one of the button presses with a wear hole in it. 

On pressing the button the led lit up so we were good to go...

Using the programming info put on this very site, thanks AhsyV6, 👍,  I tried three or four times to get it into programme mode, eventually the Coupe did decide it wanted to accept that my new fob was saying hello and wanting to be friends, then accepted the re program...now I have a working fob remote again, yippee !!

Having put up with just a key operation for a week I have to say that this is one of the good, new fangled things that our "modern" Coupes do..... 😁

 

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6 hours ago, welland99 said:

Well done, Pete.  Are these "new" internals actually brand new, or are they salvaged 2nd hand? Confused by the reported wear marks on the "new" button.  

Definitely 2nd hand but " new " to me, the wear marks are on the rubber diaphragm,  the bit that protects the circuit board contacts from the plastic buttons that you actually press.

Hence the   "   "   !!!!!

I would hazard a guess and say there are not that many actually new units available and if there are they will be pretty expensive by now.

Even if there was a new unit available i would still try and recycle an old one 'cos I am a tight ar$£ !!!!!!

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9 hours ago, hughezee said:

I have been experimenting with brake pads, following an niggle with some new old stock pads. 🙃

New old stock pads, interesting,  had an issue last year with the pad leaving the backing, twas on a bike though. New out of the box, 3 weeks in.

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3 hours ago, PTR200S said:

had an issue last year with the pad leaving the backing

I noticed some unusual marks on the N.S front brake disc and upon closer inspection revealed the pads had started to crumble O.S inner pad was doing the same. So I decided to buy a few sets of pads to see which feels the best & how well they wear. I will follow up on it in a few months as I have drafted in a couple of motors that needed brake work to join the experiment too.😉

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1 hour ago, hughezee said:

I noticed some unusual marks on the N.S front brake disc and upon closer inspection revealed the pads had started to crumble O.S inner pad was doing the same.

Eek! :o Not what the doctor ordered! Any clues on what brand those NOS pads were? Recently fitted a NOS set of Eicher pads to the Sterling, hopefully they're different enough not to be suffering the same! Just about to fit a set of Firstline pads to the rear as well......

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I'll have a look shortly as i'm rebleeding the entire system, forgot a couple of what i think may have been crucial steps last time after fitting a replacement M/Cylinder! :o

I'll find out as i do it and also if my bespoke bleed cap works properly!

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4 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said:

I'll have a look shortly as i'm rebleeding the entire system, forgot a couple of what i think may have been crucial steps last time after fitting a replacement M/Cylinder! :o

I'll find out as i do it and also if my bespoke bleed cap works properly!

Pleased to report the Eicher pads looked fine, after adjusting my bleeding procedure so the pistons were fully retracted and the bleed nipple was at the highest point where they were vertical i now have a short, firm pedal, even with the springiness of the new pads, the brakes are G-flat or should that be F-sharp? :P

Handbrake adjusted up using basic trial and error setting as i forgot my feeler guages to set the clearance between stop and operating cam, currently on 4 clicks and holds in gear and just for fun, needed less cable through the handbrake lever quadrant to get there! It is also a lot sharper than it was before!

Proper road test tomorrow after torquing the wheel nuts.........

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