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Handbrake Warning Light 1998 1999 2000 2001 CG Accord Coupe


V6vtec

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Hello Everyone,

Last weekend I cleaned the underside of my car with the jet wash after passing some salt grit lorries over the weekend. Don't want the salt on my car lol. Since cleaning the car, my handbrake light comes on when I accelerate briskly, before jacking the car up and stripping the brakes and connectors has anyone got any ideas  :)

Cheers 

Sean

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I had this on one of the old Rovers, I can't remember which it was but it either turned out to be a slightly low level in the brake reservoir, worn pads or a loose cable... Can't quite remember which one, but my memory is swaying towards fluid levels.

Chances are a jet wash would be more likely to dislodge anything that would snag the cable, but it might be worth spraying a load of lube down the end of the cable sleeve just in case waters got in and removed the lubrication between the cable and cover.

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I had this on one of the old Rovers, I can't remember which it was but it either turned out to be a slightly low level in the brake reservoir, worn pads or a lose cable... Can't quite remember which one, but my memory is swaying towards fluid levels.

 

Chances are a jet wash would be more likely to dislodge anything that would snag the cable, but it might be worth spraying a load of lube down end of the cable sleeve just in case waters got in and removed the lubrication between the cable and cover.

Thank you, I'll have a look this evening, cheers ;)

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I topped up the brake fluid as it was near the min mark, I'll check the brake lines and brake pads and discs over the weekend as I changed the whole set six months ago. 

Looks like my memory might have been swaying the right way, glad to hear you may have found the route of it. Get those callipers checked  :rolleyes:

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low fluid :o is this for your Coupe or the HRV, I'm guessing the Coupe and didn't you have a leaky caliper you where going to replace :unsure:

Yep, its the coupe. I replaced the piston cylinder as eurocarparts took my money and didn't deliver the caliper. Took me two months and a letter to the company director to get my money back.  :mellow:. The car brakes in a straight line and doesn't pull to either side. I reckon I have knocked something using the jet wash. I ve got a 60 mile trip to work tomorrow and I'll have a look at the fluid when I get to work. Missus much prefers driving the Hrv to her new Clio  :rolleyes: have to take the keys from her risking my life lol :lol:

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Looks like my memory might have been swaying the right way, glad to hear you may have found the route of it. Get those callipers checked  :rolleyes:

Your memory is better than mine lol, I'll get the calipers checked. I did look briefly tonight in the rain and nothing seems to be leaking. Renault is in my garage getting new rear hub grrrrr lol

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Update on the coupe, gave the car a good spirited run this morning and tonight and the fluid is still up to the max with some safe hard braking from a respectable speed  ;) . I did notice what looks like 'hair line marks' on front and rear discs and pads seem a little lower than what they was when I fitted them last July. Only covered 2000 miles since then. 

 

Thinking of upgrading the pads and discs or getting original honda parts, any suggestions?  :)

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  • 11 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Hi all 

Just a quick question when ive ben driving for a few mins my hand brake light and brake light warning on my dash comes up but its intermittent some times it wont even do it but all my rear lights are working and my hand brake is defo released any ideas?

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Brief update: my handbrake/brake light warning lamps suddenly came on one day, then went off again, and often came on (temporarily) when I turned sharp left.  Recently they haven't been coming on much and I was just ignoring them.  This week I've used the car twice - including a 40-mile run today - and they haven't come on at all.  I haven't done anything to try to fix the problem, so... :huh:

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Interesting one Andrew - probably the auto-adjusters on the rear calipers have operated (have you noticed a slightly firmer brake pedal recently?) and increased the distance between the pad back and the hydraulic piston in the caliper hence "pushing" the piston further back in the caliper and returning some fluid to the reservoir.

 

Bit of a long-winded explanation but i think you'll see what i'm getting at.......... ;):D

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I'm confused Dave maybe I'm reading it wrong :huh: the auto adjuster sits inside the piston and tensioned by a spring so the piston is constant contact with the pad at all times and the pedal pressure wouldn't change in fact as pad wears the fluid level in the reservoir will drop just like the front. Also fluid pressure is also monitored & regulated by the ABS system, unless the fail-safe relay has triggered which is common on sticky brakes...

Don't mean to sound patronising buddy just giving an explanation to others reading ;), but it sounds like you describing there are two parts to the piston like the auto adjuster sits in front of the piston sitting on a thread like a nut an bolt arrangement so as is the adjuster turns compensating for wear thus piston retracts, but they are not like that ;)

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Sorry, didn't mean to be misleading Stu - what you say is right but i was trying to simplify it, maybe a bit too much. I know on both of mine when the auto adjusters have done their work the brake pedal gets firmer/handbrake sharper - perhaps there are less teeth on the ratchet on mine.

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Quite possibly yes. Not 100% sure on your gen of Accord coupé but certainly on the previous gen (similar to Rover 600) and on my 827s, the procedure is slacken the handbrake cable adjuster inside the car, remove the old pads, wind the pistons back in (preferably with the bleed nipple opened slightly a bleed tube attached etc to prevent possibility of dirt being forcedd back up the line to the ABS modulator), fit the new pads, bleed that part of the brake circuit (if the bit above was done) and operate the brake pedal until the auto-adjusters have taken up the clearance. Now adjust the handbrake cable. On mine, you set the handbrake cable to between 0.5 - 2.0mm clearance between the operating lever and cam on the calipers.

Usually most garages either don't know or don't care about slackening the handbrake cable to start with and this causes problems later on - siezed auto-adjusters, seized calipers, low handbrake and/or low service brake performance to name but a few.

 

Not saying this is what happened on yours but it could well be.

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