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What Have You Done To Your Legend or Rover 800 Today


hughezee

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Been fairly quiet on mine lately for several reasons. First is obviously lockdown, too many nuuters still using the roads and i wasn't going to risk it. Thankfully they've calmed down now more people are back on the roads.

Second reason is since i started using it again, had a few charging problems, nothing obvious at first then the last time i used it, only just got home!

:blink:🤔😮

Turned the stereo off (recently updated to a nice new BlueTooth stereo with full hands-free calling, music streaming from the phone and so on) and the heater fan/air-con (was using it to cool down) and nursed it home with (now) 10.7V showing on the voltmeter.

Pulling the alternator and stripping it after checking the voltages present in the green plug on the back revealed :

IMG-20200807-190910303.jpg

One very burned crimp terminal, screw and rectifier!

Further dismantling showed :

IMG-20200808-143005501.jpg

The eagle-eyed among you will notice the stator windings are also burned! All the other 3 screws connecting the stator windings to the rectifier were less than tight, not loose as such but not tight enough to ensure reliable long-term contact.

New alternators are like hens dentists, the only reconditioned one available in the UK was another of the same as this one was 3.5 years ago so i exhumed my original alternator that had a suspect intermittent rectifier fault that had got worse.

Stripped that, confirmed the rectifier fault was the only obvious one (apart from slightly worn brushes but i had a spare set in the one just off the car) and through a couple of days searching and cross-referencing i eventually found a rectifier for a sensible price on fleabay. Turns out the same rectifier is used by absolutely loads of different cars so at least supply of those should be reasonably plentiful for a few years yet!

Anyhow, i digress!

IMG-20200814-135715123-HDR.jpg

The new rectum-fryer duly arrived, i cleaned up the crimp rings on the windings, earth points for the rectifier and regulator and the slip rings using a screwdriver to help the emery tape get into the groove worn into them

.IMG-20200814-144234415.jpg

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Rectifier duly mounted followed by the brush holder and voltage regulator and rear cover.

IMG-20200814-153706812.jpg

Ready for fitting and testing once i'd finished my coffee and checked the battery had enough in it after being on charge for about 5 hours (still used the jump pack to help) and all was good.

Over time i'll invest in the bits to fix the so-called reconditioned unit so it's on the shelf as a good spare but for now, all is good again on the Sterling! ;):D

 

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It ws a bit of a headache going through various different catalogues online trying to find other cars that used a similar alternator then referencing back and cross referring on various suppliers sites to find a number that was recognised on fleabay!

Got there in the end though! ;):D

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi sorry been off the scene but have purchased a few more just purchased a Honda  legend mk1 coupe  was a barn find which had been parked up for over 20 years and also purchased another Honda legend mk1 coupe in blue to add to the collection.

Also bought a Honda Accord 2.2 4ws 91 model needs a bit of work might use it for parts or get it back on the road 

 

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Like your style !

How many vehicles are you upto now then?  😁

Please explain the benefits that you get by having more Honda  motors, so I might use the excuses, oops, sorry, reasons and be able to explain it to the swmbo to get her to understand why I need more too !!!!

 

Err, and by the way , mandatory requirement, 😜  we NEED pics !!!!! 

 

 

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  • 1 month later...
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While fitting my "new and improved" (over what Rover designed) upper wishbone bushes recently, i noticed that once again, the ARB drop links were FUBAR and the obvious source of the clunks i'd been experiencing.

Looked online, few if any available and those that were, £OUCH!!!

Decided to revive an old idea of mine using cold-cure PU and these pics are over the course of a few weeks mainly spent in preparation, research and other things.

IMG-20201105-104910420.jpg

New crush tubes (larger OD) made to fit in the links without a separate outer bush shell ^^^^^

IMG-20201105-134447668.jpg

After pouring the PU ^^^^^

IMG-20201105-170418695.jpg

Demould time! ^^^^^ Note it removed a layer of MDF from the jig, i'm remaking the jig in HDPE and have ordered a 12mm thick sheet of it.

Today was the "big fit" and after struggling for a couple of hours (normally takes me 20 minutes to do both), finally managed to get the new ones on there.

Even reversing off the ramps felt better! Quick spin down the road and a definite improvement, for a start the clonk has gone.

I'm expecting a definite improvement in the handling too! ;):D

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12 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said:

Note it removed a layer of MDF from the jig

Great work there Dave, maybe a little oil on the MDF would have prevented it sticking? I am sure you've come up with something for next time if there is a next time, hope it all holds up 👍

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45 minutes ago, hughezee said:

maybe a little oil on the MDF would have prevented it sticking?

IMG-20201105-110024675.jpg

I did use candle wax as a mould release Stu, it wasn't as effective as i thought it would be though. Maybe i should have given the wax a quick squirt with the blowlamp and then a second coat of wax.

Next time i make a jig, i'll use a combination of two things, silicone based furniture polish and some cling-film.

Polish on the HDPE block to start then lay the cling-film on, insert the crush tubes and then the links themselves then pour the PU in. Gives me two chances that way! 👍

Knowing what it's like for eating drop links the chances are i will need more at some point but now i know the technique works, i am going to be making other stuff with it.

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36 minutes ago, PTR200S said:

interested to see how they last too.

 

Based on how the commercially available ones lasted, anything over 6 weeks will be a bonus! :o

I'm hoping considerably longer, my theory is the originals have ~2.5-3.0mm of rubber between the crush tube and the inside of the outer shell of the bush. That's not enough to reliably give compliance and the rubber just tears away around the outside of the crush tube, as the two, almost new looking, links i removed yesterday show.

As i've delted the outer shell of the original bush and now use the eye of the link as the outer shell and have increased the OD of the crush tube by ~1.5-2.0mm, this gives ~4.0-4.5mm of rubber between the two so should have more give before it tears from either the link eye or the crush tube.

I suspect when Rover designed those links (or was it Honda?) that rubber was expensive and metal was cheap.

s-l500.jpg

Using that as inspiration to delete the outer shell of the OE link suggests they should last well. 🤞

In case you're wondering, that's the equivalent component for my Volvo so it's fairly well proven. ;):D

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  • 3 months later...
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Well...I’ve been working from home now since March 2020 and although Lennie Legend isn’t driven every day at the moment, he looked like he’d been rallying with the sand and dirt.  Therefore the sun was out and as I’ve been cooped up inside all week, I just couldn’t resist giving him an Autoglym Resin Deep Shine.  I might have an aching right arm but we’ll worth it..

90-A05849-5587-4988-B59-A-AF0-A4-ADF42-B

Must wrap that front grille when the warmer weather arrives though  

 

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6 minutes ago, PTR200S said:

Nice one!

Just nip round and do mine too, please 😆

Got a right arm like Arnold Schwarzenegger.  I do like a nice shiny car though. As he’s not driven every day at the moment, I’ve noticed that the inside of the windscreen had loads of condensation, so much that I had to use kitchen roll to mop it up!  Must be lack of use and the air inside not being renewed etc?  Nothing damp in the car either?  Also noticed earlier that there was a bit (maybe an inch at the bottom) of condensation in the headlights too. Never had it before.  🤔

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