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Seized Rear Caliper Slider 1998 1999 2000 2001 CG Accord Coupe


Cryistic

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My rear drivers side calliper seized today. I jacked the car up and released the handbrake and it wouldn't turn at all, it was also much hotter than the passenger side, it's at my mechanic's now being looked at, hopefully it's just a clean up.

 

Even if it is just stuck pads he's under instructions to change the brake fluid and service the rest of the brakes.

 

Does anyone have a spare calliper hidden behind some rocking Horse poo and powdered unicorn Horn.

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Found some instock recon Calipers for £70 from these people, I'm not actually going to know if I need them until tomorrow.

 

No worries Stu, it sounds like the Purple coupe would have been no good for spares even if I had kept her.

 

http://brakeparts.co.uk/#page=parts&pageSection=BHR&mancode=HOND&brand=HONDA&model=ACCORD&modelversion=ACCO*(98-02)+CG2+3.0+V6+COUPE

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Great find on the refurbished calipers, checked the O.E numbers all correct :) nevertheless hoping you don't need one  ;)  

 

I searched the site by the Honda part number, got it from the Lings website.

 

I wonder if anybody has ever actually brought anything from lings, they must have the busiest Honda Dealer website with the quietest parts section  :D

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Excellent m8y  :D bet if you took it to the dealer it would have needed two new calipers, hoses and disks an pads :rolleyes:  so kudos to your local garage  ;) few months back I stripped down the rear brakes on the coupe and you could retract the piston with your fingers, so mark up 2-3 years to replace the fluid again  ^_^

 

DSC03409_zpsb0b958da.jpg

 

Still looking fresh  :D

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  • 7 months later...

When I was checking my brakes yesterday, I discovered a stuck slide pin on one of the calipers.  It wasn't totally seized, but the lubricant (grease of some sort?) had dried and gone hard.

I managed to frree it off and it is much better now.  But I was wondering if anybody can offer advice about good or bad lubricants for these slide pins?

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I've used a few rubber safe greases over the years e.g calliper silicon grease or rubber safe grease, they all seem to dry up eventually and restrict slider pin movement :huh: so I strip down and clean my brakes once every two years or so as the pads edges sometimes need a clean as they can get stuck in the carrier ;)

 

The 3M silicone paste is pretty good but can be expensive, the best one I've used has to be NAPA Sil-Glyde it’s an imported product: http://www.amazon.com/Sil-Glyde-Silicone-Lubricating-Compound-Ounce/dp/B0054DWS1W?tag=viglink20245-20

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The Carlube stuff will melt in your hands, so not ideal for metal parts that will get hot  ^_^  great for external rubber parts though ;)

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Aye I use high temp Vac grease from work from Dow Corning but it's expensive, bloody good stuff though. My tube was free though......

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Dow-Corning-High-vacuum-grease/dp/B00IE6C7KS

 

Agreed on the 3m pastes, by far the best for the job but it is expensive as well

 

http://www.amazon.co.uk/3M-08946-Clear-Silicone-Paste/dp/B005RNEH5O

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Hmmm I will have to checkout that dow corning high vacuum grease, thanks for the link buddy ;) The carlube stuff has mixed reviews in regards to slider pins ect and used some recently and its more of thick oil than a grease and didn't last long and leaked out of the rubbers :rolleyes:

 

 

Note for V6 owners: if you have sticky slider pin it could be the rubbers on the slider pin (as pictured below), they do swell up over time and will need replacing ;)

 

post-1-0-45788100-1430055104_thumb.jpg

post-1-0-26510300-1430055135_thumb.jpg

post-1-0-20361000-1430055161_thumb.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

Well, went to replace my Rear Brake Pads today and basically fell at the first hurdle!

First problem was is that you cannot get a Socket onto the Top Slider Bolt, and bloody thing too tight to use a piddly 12mm Spanner!

So after Clamping the Pipe with appropriate Clamp I had to remove the Brake Fluid Pipe Connector so as to gain access to the Bolt with a Socket. And even then I had to use a Breaker Bar!!! (And this was after copious amounts of Penetrating Spray).

The Bottom was easier.

Got the Caliper off and actually found the Pads to be only about 30% Worn and in good condition. Anyway, I thought I would give the Sliders a good clean and lube - top one, no problemo, was nice and slippery. :) Now for the bottom one - mmmmm, seems a bit tight. Actually totally immovable! Try twisting, hammering, you name it.... After a good 30 minutes of trying I gave up - BEATEN!!! :(

So, I put everything back as I found it until I can take off the Caliper Holder and take it to my friendly garage to loosen it up. Which will probably be on Tuesday as I need to use the car on Monday for the Vet.... 

Annoyed or what. There was some ripe language..... t2416.gif

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Sorry to hear of your troubles Bill, had the same problem on Dave Brad's @ coupes & coffee but being the 2.0 the pins are shorter and a little wider so wasn't so bad, but I did have a spare carrier from an EP3 Type-R Civic in case it snapped off, different O.E manufacturer but the same spec's for the 2.0 Coupe ;) Anyway back to the 3.0 Coupe which has a different rear setup to the 2.0 Coupe before anybody asks :rolleyes: the lower slider pin has recessed seal so avoid using heat unless you source another pin seal, without the seal which creates a vacuum, the pads will wear dramatically, generating excess heat damaging the disk. Unfortunately, the seal only comes with a new pin from Honda item 15 in the topic linked below, I purchased some separately from America but have since used them on other members cars.

 

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Hi Paul.

Yes, you might as well be..... :(

Not sure about the other side, (Passenger/Nearside) didn't even bother - in fact I might just leave things as they are as the Brakes work fine.

But a real stupid design about putting the Hydraulic Brake Fluid Union right behind the Slider Bolt. Obviously a 'Monday' design....

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1 hour ago, Mangoman said:

Not sure about the other side, (Passenger/Nearside) didn't even bother - in fact I might just leave things as they are as the Brakes work fine.

But a real stupid design about putting the Hydraulic Brake Fluid Union right behind the Slider Bolt. Obviously a 'Monday' design....

Agreed about the position of the bolt, but blame TRW for that one at least the there's enough space to remove the bolt clear of the slider pin, unlike some other cars. Also, a bit of a disappointing response to say you might leave as is Bill, the brakes are not working fine if a slider pin is stuck. :rolleyes:

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I know what you mean, Bill, about being "annoyed" !!!:P:rolleyes:

A good nights sleep and you will be ready to have another go :D

Book it in for a Tuesday session and have another go, you will need the therapy after the vets on Monday :lol: 

and we need your famous pics...... B)

pssst, just want to see how clean your cars is underneath? does it match the top half !!!

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As Stu said these sliding pins are essential to the calipers and need to move freely for the pads to move in and out.

If not moving this could become a problem with pad and disk wear.

Also it could cook your calipers and become a bigger and expensive job in the long run.

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  • 10 months later...

Ive found this out the hard way after a lengthy journey my rear pads delaminated and started to grind on the disc so i had a look when i got home and ordered new discs and pads and found that every bolt had been rounded off by the previous owner or mechanic so now im left trying to find replacement calipers or carriers at the very least even the hose union is rounded off total nightmare 

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