PaulS

Might be worth approaching a local hydraulics specialist shop to see what they can offer. In Manchester I use Able Hydraulics, https://www.ablehydraulics.co.uk/ They can copy, make or mend most hydraulics stuff....

Ugly car - was the YTS lad in charge and sketched it as a joke? For Honda's sake I hope it sells well, but well away from me!

Exactly that happened to me in my Mitsubishi on a hot summers day pounding down the German Autobahn. Cost me a new cylinder head and a recovery home to the UK. So well spotted Stu...

Well done, which company have you chosen?

You lucky lot.... about half my cost....

Put me down in the wimps category too... I will do stuff outside when it is desperately needed, but with a couple of other cars available, why bother getting frozen unless it is desperate.... And lucky Pete - it was raining in Manchester today. Has done each day this week ....

Lots of useful parts there....if only I had the space....

And I am just wondering how you happened to carry these exact items at home???? Did you previously think they were on their way out?

I support Pete's reply above. I have revived my own calipers using that same method (works on most other cars too!), and I think many others have done too. If you do need a caliper, Brake Engineering lists them in its catalogue: https://www.brake-eng.com/en/catalogue/#market=gb&vehicleType=P&manufacturerId=45&modelId=3950&vehicleId=|10240%2CFront-Wheel+Drive+(02%2F98+->+06%2F03%3B+200HP+%2F+147KW)&productGroupId=78 Brake Engineering does not wantto sell direct to piblic- so be warned. But they do have a network of agents and will be able to advise one near you. Their products are service exchange, so unless you take the old one in with you, & hand it over, you will have to pay a supplement & then claim it back when you do take in the old unit.

I have reuseable dehumidifiers in all my cars over winter. the 1kg version starts at just under 1kg and stops absorbing at around 1.3kg. Then i microwave it down to ~900g again (approx 15 mins from 1.3kg), mop out the microwave, let both cool, and use the dehumidifier bag once more. Seems to work well. I bought 6 of them so i have 2 spares ready to swap if I notice a car appearing moist inside... (well I do live in rainy city...)

Amazingly, both heated seats are still working.... fingers crossed for the rest of the winter..... earths still looked looked good but redone and greased for good measure though

Could you not simply remove the schraeder core (small tool needed) & fit a new one (one from a spare tyre or schraeder bicycle inner tube will do if you ortherwise cannot put your hands on one)? I have done that several times myself with leaky schraeder valves.... simple to do at minimum cost - however you would need to pump up the tyre again... I guess you have a compressor...

Looking at the pic, it makes me wonder how on earth the screw went in accidentally at that angle???

Thankfully no remaining smell. I have 3 dehumidifiers, this one was my medium size (Hotpoint DH10 dryair), that just fits in the rear nearside foot well when the front seat is as far forward as possible. Yes, it is pretty good....

Luckily the car has dried out nicely - I think I got about 2 litres of water out with my dehumidifier.... Just hope no electrical items suffered.... time will tell.... Carpets dry now..... hope the leather has not been dried too much....

New action today - I have put the electric dehumidifier in the coupe to attempt to dry out the paddling pool. Somehow one of us (discussion still raging!) left the passenger window half open earlier this week (last time the coupe was used!) and it has rained a lot since...

Well done. Bet you are pleased its fixed again, especially at minimal cost.... Awkward job in the cold weather, but essential so had to be done...

I bought the small sprayer bottle and application tubes & extension lance at the show for £22 (deal on the day and I think I was his first customer that day! Could have got a deal on the fluid too, but then I would have had to carry it around all day and then home on the train & bus...), then bought the 2l Lanoguard tub and tub sprayer on Amazon for £65 delivered. In my view that was a very fair price for the lot, quite a bit cheaper that I have seen elsewhere. To do the sill cavities you will need the sprayer injector lance (360 degree nozzle on end) and possibly the extention tube (not seen that extension tube on the Lanoguard website). The £132 utimate kit does have 2x 2L liquid and some grease, I only got a small sample tin of grease (enough to put on brake pipes etc) and 1x 2l Lanoguard. That is enough for me to try out.... I guess my solo kit is more similar to the Injector kit than the ultimate kit. The tub sprayer is better for getting under wheel arches , but the sprayer bottle is better for doing underneath the car where the tub might fall over & leak!

Yes, I removed the bungs in the inside bottom of the wheel arches. The Lanoguard kit comes with a decent length application pipe - but I also got the extension pipe for longer reach to suit inaccessible areas.

Good job I have not scrapped my 1996 Mk 1 Laguna yet.... It might actually gain some value....

I seem to remember that Supertrol was a development of Dinitrol - no harm in using it like described. Just be careful that it does not get onto brake surfaces etc... The Lanoguard is not readily miscible with water (lanolin is supposed to be its base material) but any hard spray (such as hurtling through puddles & standing water) is indeed likely to wash it off to some extent. Must admit I used Glue & Tar remover to clean the application gun after using the Lanoguard as I both have that to hand and the demo guy said fairy liquid type things took some effort to cut through Lanoguard.

The original Honda Coupe 5 spoke 16" wheels. I did look for some steel Honda 16" wheels but did not see any for sale - hence as my original wheels were ready for a refurb, I demoted them to winter wheels and got another set for summer wheels (Primacy 4 summer tyres on them) Like you I saw reviews, naturally all very positive. I saw a good demo of it at the NEC classics show last weekend and so secumbed.... It is relatively see through when used, like a thinned Waxoil and relatively runny to apply, and so sprays (own sprayer included in the kit) quite easily but somehow does not drip unless one overdoes it in any particular space. Lets see how well it lasts. I have not done that much of the underneath as yet as it started raining on me!

I swapped over to my winter wheels & tyres today (Nokian WR4 tyres) - and whilst doiing so, I Lanoguarded the inside of both sills and a bit of underseal around a couple of bits that were looking a bit rusty...

Well lucky I think.... no dropping of the rear sub frame needed.... Now a "relatively simple" fix. A suggestion: Whilst the car is in the air I think it would be a good time to check the other side rear brake pipe too. Any rot can be similarly cut out & replaced and then you only have one lot of bleeding to do... But in your last picture do I see a rotten bit of floor to the top right of the jacking point?

At least your rotten pipe is easyish to get at, mine was hidden behind the subframe.... Should you so wish you could easily piece in a new short length of pipe...