Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted March 20, 2021 Founding Member Report Share Posted March 20, 2021 Hello all, sorry I’ve not been around in a few months.....all I’ll say is the stresses of life and work. Wanted some advice on overheating. Last night the coupe started getting a high temp(bit like me at present post Astra Zaneka jab from last night). In traffic it started rising and it hit the red mark. When I put the car heater on the temp came down immediately on either hot or cold temp. Whilst driving with the heater fan on the temp was in the middle and then in traffic started creeping up. Radiator is topped up (from Stu 4 years ago....I know it should have been flushed by now) and I filled the expansion tank with plain water this morning up to the Max line. This didn’t help either. Both radiator fans come on too. Any suggestions? 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted March 20, 2021 Moderators Report Share Posted March 20, 2021 Sounds like a stuck thermostat, in the closed position or at the very least some circulation problem...water pump possibly or slack belt, maybe??? Has car been doing little mileage too during lockdown? I think a good draining and flush and have a look at the stat / belts 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted March 20, 2021 Administrators Report Share Posted March 20, 2021 20 hours ago, PTR200S said: Sounds like a stuck thermostat, in the closed position or at the very least some circulation problem Sorry to hear of your recent troubles Ahsy, what Pete has suggested sounds like the right path to follow, there's a restriction or air in the system. 🤔 I would run the engine with the radiator cap off to make sure there's no air trapped in the system, another possibility is the temp sensor is going bad too. I wouldn't hesitate just removing the thermostat if you need to use the car, a great opportunity to stick some flushing agent in there too, see if it starts to behave at least? The best thermostats for the coupe are genuine ones or GATES 34015 (Japanese made) but anything is better than nothing if the original is stuck. Honda P/N: 19301-P8C-A11 for £65 ish or found a gates one https://www.amazon.co.uk/GATES-RUBBER-COMPANY-34015-THERMOSTATS/dp/B001C97V3M? 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 21, 2021 Moderators Report Share Posted March 21, 2021 Sounds very like the radiator is partially blocked and/or missing some fins - i'd go with Petes advice to start and give the rad a good visual inspection but if a really good reverse flush doesn't sort it, you may have to renew the rad - changing the 'stat for a new one would also be a good idea. I'd be reluctant to run without a 'stat as that can lead to uneven temperatures across the heads and as we all know, that can cause warping. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted March 21, 2021 Administrators Report Share Posted March 21, 2021 19 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: I'd be reluctant to run without a 'stat as that can lead to uneven temperatures across the heads and as we all know, that can cause warping. Good point Dave, I only suggested it as short term solution and since its overheating anyway, so removing the thermostat would get any air out much quicker and it would be no different to a weak or thermostat stuck open. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted March 22, 2021 Author Founding Member Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 Thanks for all your advice. I’ve ordered the Gates stat for cost and also the fact that I’m undecided if I’m getting rid of it before October when ULEZ kicks in. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted March 22, 2021 Moderators Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 37 minutes ago, AhsyV6 said: Thanks for all your advice. I’ve ordered the Gates stat for cost and also the fact that I’m undecided if I’m getting rid of it before October when ULEZ kicks in. Have you pulled the stat then ? Is it stuck ? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted March 22, 2021 Author Founding Member Report Share Posted March 22, 2021 11 hours ago, PTR200S said: Have you pulled the stat then ? Is it stuck ? Not pulled it yet....will do it after I get the replacement on Friday. I’ll keeping the driving down to a minimum until then ie less that 3 miles from cold. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Founding Member Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Another question.....in the manual it says to replace the o ring. I know it makes absolute sense to do this from a maintenance aspect as it probably is the original ring. Is it a must or advisable. As I’m writing this I’m convincing myself I should replace it. Also what is the order in I should replace the stat ie loosening rad cap, removing rad pipes, bleeding post replacement etc 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 23, 2021 Moderators Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 43 minutes ago, AhsyV6 said: Is it a must Yes, if it's the original it will probably crumble on removal but you have to remove the old one with the 'stat anyway. Smear the new one inside the groove for the 'stat with silicone grease and then get the new one on the 'stat, smear the outside of the O ring with more silicone grease and when you remove the old one, clean any corrosion on the 'stat housing and the recess where it sits on the head/water valley. Then fit the new one, jiggle valve uppermost (if fitted) and refit the 'stat housing. Depending how much you have to remove for access to it, that might be it apart from topping up the coolant. On mine, the airbox has to come out for access which means the battery out as well. Whether you drain the cooling system partially before you start is up to you and how quickly you think you can swap the old and new 'stats. Cleaning corrosion from the housing etc takes a bit of time (not much) but coolant will be flowing out while you do that. Once you've got it all back together and the cooling system topped up, either take it for a drive to get it hot and ensure there are no leaks or run it up at a fast idle at home, then park it facing uphill if possible so the expansion tank is as high as possible. This helps the self-bleed process to remove air locks, top up if necessary the next day before using the car. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted March 23, 2021 Author Founding Member Report Share Posted March 23, 2021 Thank you mate for the time you put in to responding in so much detail....very much appreciated. I’ll keep you updated. off to order the o ring now 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted March 25, 2021 Author Founding Member Report Share Posted March 25, 2021 I am so impressed with the US Amazon Prime service.....ordered the Stat on Monday and it arrived today. Also, the stat comes with the O ring. Ordered the O Ring from Honda on Tuesday and they said delivery tomorrow and I called today and the ring was still in Belgium. What can I say🙄 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 25, 2021 Moderators Report Share Posted March 25, 2021 25 minutes ago, AhsyV6 said: What can I say You could ring Honda and tell them to cancel the O ring you've ordered with them and refund you? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted March 25, 2021 Administrators Report Share Posted March 25, 2021 On 3/23/2021 at 12:29 PM, AhsyV6 said: Another question.....in the manual it says to replace the o ring My apologies Ahsy, I should have mentioned the GATES 34015 usually comes with a new seal, most thermostats do anyway. However not always guaranteed they actually fit and in some cases, I have reused the old one if it looks ok with no issues to date. 😉 As Dave suggested a little grease to help, but normally spray the seal with brake cleaner to induce a little swelling, but saying that I have had new seals leak too despite cleaning the mating surfaces thoroughly yet carefully.🙄 Anyway hope it solves the issue when you get the time that is. 🖐️ 1 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted March 31, 2021 Author Founding Member Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 Hello all, due to lack of time and local driving so not feeling the need to change the stat(I know it’s very stupid of me). However with that said I just wanted to give you an update on the overheating......it’s just stopped overheating all of a sudden!?!?! I did a long run of 18miles through London last night and it was fine. Any thoughts/advice. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 31, 2021 Moderators Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 1 minute ago, AhsyV6 said: .it’s just stopped overheating all of a sudden!?!?! I did a long run of 18miles through London last night and it was fine. First thoughts are that there was something preventing the 'stat from opening, dirt of some sort and the longer run with increased temperatures gave the 'stat more pressure to open, broke the dirt and shifted it round the system. Keep an eye on things but it sounds overdue for a serious backflush! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted March 31, 2021 Author Founding Member Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 Cheers mate....I’ll keep an eye on it. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted March 31, 2021 Administrators Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 14 minutes ago, AhsyV6 said: Any thoughts/advice. Apart from what Dave has already said, it could be a fault with the fan switch or temp sensor as I already suggested, personally I would still change the thermostat.🖐️ 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted March 31, 2021 Moderators Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 yep, sticky thermostat at a guess, definitely a good move to change it and as Dave says back flush time !!!! Ooh err !!!! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member PaulS Posted March 31, 2021 Founding Member Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 Stuck thermostat cost me a cylinder head on my Mitsubishi ... definitely worth doing..... 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted March 31, 2021 Author Founding Member Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 Looks like I’ll be changing the stat then and doing a back flush(how ever that’s done) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 31, 2021 Moderators Report Share Posted March 31, 2021 21 minutes ago, AhsyV6 said: Looks like I’ll be changing the stat then and doing a back flush(how ever that’s done) Before you start the drain, flush etc, ensure the heater is set to the hottest setting, it needs to be there so the matrix gets flushed too. When you come to do it, invest in something like Comma X-stream Flush for the cooling system and add it as per the directions on it. If it says run it at a fast idle for 20 minutes, take it for a half hour drive instead. Once you're home and it has cooled somewhat, remove the 'stat housing and the old 'stat. Refit the housing then remove the top hose from the radiator stub. Use your garden hose in the open end of the top hose, if you have a Hozelock type fitting it should fit snugly inside the top hose. Turn the water on for the hose and leave it running. This reverse flushes the system with the old stuff exiting via the radiator stub at the top. Usually takes about half hour to get it running clear, once it is running clear leave it 10 minutes or so more to ensure it really is clear. Turn the hose off and remove it from the top hose. Remove the bottom hose from the bottom of the rad to drain off excess water from the rad and block and then refit - having a new Jublee clip for it is a wise move as they often rust. Once the bottom hose is secure, add 5L of concentrated Ethylene Glycol antifreeze. The exact figure for 50/50 mix is something like 4.8L, can't recall it exactly and it's as close to 5L as makes very little difference. Fit the new 'stat, note the seal sits around the edge of the 'stat ont on it or under it - there is a groove inside the seal to let it sit around the 'stat. Ensure the recess in the head and 'stat housing are clean and smooth, use some silicone grease in the groove and smear some on the outer parts of the seal too and fit, ensuring the jiggle valve is at the top if it has one. Refit the 'stat housing and top hose to the rad. Top up the expansion tank with fresh water (remember you already have enough antifreeze in so water is fine), refit the cap and squeeze the bottom hose several times to help move the air to the top. If the level drops in the tank, add more water to the "MIN" line and squeeze the bottom hose a few more times. Repeat until squeezing the bottom hose doesn't result in further drop of the level. Refit the cap and take for a drive, ensuring you get it up to temperature and that the heater works, no leaks etc. Return home and park it facing uphill and leave to cool until the following day then check and top up the level to the "MIN" mark if needed. I've used this method for decades on a variety of cars and it works. This was something i typed out on another forum so double-check your quantities and the type of anti-freeze, however the rest holds true. As you're in an urban area, agther a few buckets/washing up bowls/similar to catch the old coolant when it comes out so you can transfer it to empty container and take it to the tip and dispose of it there. Any other spillages use a stiff broom and plenty of water to wash them away. When backflushing, it's predominantly water and will be diluted more as more water goes through so i don't think that's a problem, i've never had a problem with it anyway. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Site Subscriber’s RevvinKevin Posted April 1, 2021 Site Subscriber’s Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 A very well written guide and easy to follow. Thanks for that 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted April 1, 2021 Administrators Report Share Posted April 1, 2021 1 hour ago, RevvinKevin said: A very well written guide and easy to follow. Dave does some great forum(s) posts 😜, although I would be wary of using flushing agents unless you're confident in your cooling system can take it, seals, water pump, radiator can all fall victim if you're not careful in an older car. Additionally, most late 90's early 2000's Hondas recommend 35% coolant mix rather than 50/50 mix and typically most Honda's only take 4L when changing the coolant every 2-5 years (draining from the radiator). Should you need to flush the system it can take up to 7L of contrate to get the balance right again, only tackle flushing with an agent if it is absolutely necessary IMO.🖐️ 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted April 6, 2021 Author Founding Member Report Share Posted April 6, 2021 Thank you so much for that comprehensive instruction Dave. Points taken on board Stu. You will jot be surprised to hear that I’ve not done anything yet. However the car started overheating the other day and then was ok for 4-5 days and now as I type has heated up again. I noticed that when I switch my engine off the fans come on and then turning the ignition to Position 2 switches the fan off and then ignition off switches them on again. I have opened the bonnet and see only the right fan (passenger side) is working and running for ages. HELP REQUIRED PLEASE! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now