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Honda Elysion , it's BLUE, V6 & 3 litre !!!


PTR200S

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No but i've done a bit of digging online and found this, which has a video explaining some basic functions :

http://owners.honda.com/vehicles/information/2013/Odyssey/features/Power-Sliding-Doors-and-Tailgate

Also found this, may or may not be helpful/useful :

http://owners.honda.com/Search?q=odyssey+electric+sliding+doors

Not sure if any of that will be any good but might give you a few pointers.

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The oddesey usa version is a different system to the Elysion but i did find out that holding the door handle for slightly longer opens it fully. Just a light touch opens it enough to get out if the seat behind driver / passenger whereas holding it longer lets the door open fully for better access to third row seats.

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Now I am trying to identify a small button on the passenger side dash next to the heating control for the passenger.

Here is the dash cluster, small button with the logo, that looks like a wiper and a heated screen rolled into one!! It lights up but I can't tell what t connects up?

 

elysion_dash_switch_1.jpg

 

and a dusty close up ?

elysion_dash_switch_2.jpg

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Another job or two done this afternoon, dismantled a couple of the interior lights to check bulb type and size, amazing how many suppliers still don't tell you the size of the bulb they supply... The Honda T10 (501) wedge / capless type is about an inch long (25mm) and fits into places like the puddle lights on the doors and the interior rear area of the car. There is never a lot of clear space to play with before the original bulb touches the inside of the lense and yet a lot of these LED bulbs are 1 1/4"  (31mm) plus long so its not possible to get the lense back on ?  

In the Elysion the puddle lights are not bad for space, maybe 1 3/16ths ish (30mm ) but the four rear interior lights have no extra to play with so very restricted with choice, anyway I have found some and ordered ten supposedly inch long ones (25mm) long ! We'll see.

The standard torpedo or festoon type light unit is a little more forgiving but again width of the bulb can be a problem, and again have had to compromise on bulbs that I would like and ones that will fit ? so two ordered for the reading lamps over the cockpit area.

Another area under investigation is the spare wheel: hanging under the rear end it is a space saver (not garish orange by the way!) with some sort of clamping arrangement on the carrier... still trying to work out how to get it off as there appears to be no bolts involved !  The lack of an owners manual is becoming a pain now....

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3 hours ago, PTR200S said:

Now I am trying to identify a small button on the passenger side dash next to the heating control for the passenger.

Here is the dash cluster, small button with the logo, that looks like a wiper and a heated screen rolled into one!! It lights up but I can't tell what t connects up?

 

elysion_dash_switch_1.jpg

 

and a dusty close up ?

elysion_dash_switch_2.jpg

Windshield heat relay button Pete, auxiliary heater...

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42 minutes ago, PTR200S said:

Another area under investigation is the spare wheel: hanging under the rear end it is a space saver (not garish orange by the way!) with some sort of clamping arrangement on the carrier... still trying to work out how to get it off as there appears to be no bolts involved !

Straight up guess here Pete, you'll probably find it's some sort of over-centre catch arrangement with the handle tucked up on the rear end and hidden by the bumper.

Pull down on the handle and it goes past the centre point of the basket/clamp/carrier and becomes loose then can be unhooked from wherever it attaches on the body. Refitting would be slide the wheel in, lift it up onto the hook and push the handle up past the centre point.

As i say, totally wild guess but might just be worth a look - and a clean/lube if i'm right! ;):D

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46 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said:

Straight up guess here Pete, you'll probably find it's some sort of over-centre catch arrangement with the handle tucked up on the rear end and hidden by the bumper.

Pull down on the handle and it goes past the centre point of the basket/clamp/carrier and becomes loose then can be unhooked from wherever it attaches on the body. Refitting would be slide the wheel in, lift it up onto the hook and push the handle up past the centre point.

As i say, totally wild guess but might just be worth a look - and a clean/lube if i'm right! ;):D

Good call , think you are probably right Dave, nothing moves at minute though. Given it a good spray of lube underneath the bits I can see but really need it on ramps to get a better idea.

Just hope i dont need it !! Of course the other thing is there are 18 inch wheels on, is the spare the same?  Probably not, either 16 or 17 I'd bet.

 

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Ok, so we both guessed wrongly !

It's a conventional hold me up bolt type but with a twist... sorry about the pics but upside down and close up bit tricky.

First off is to open the hatch and remove the rear floor panel.. the orientation is over the boot lip, you can see the boot catch bottom right of pic. This panel is about 18" long and 8" wide covering a shallow depression in the floor... possibly contained a breakdown triangle but not any more ?

elysion_spare_wheel_1.jpg

 

Then remove this bit which is right behind the boot lip at the back of the catch, two twist fasteners hold it in place. Boot catch , from the back , is top right of the pic.

elysion_spare_wheel_2.jpg

 

 

In the carpet, is this, to the nearside of the vehicle

 

elysion_spare_wheel_3.jpg

 

Lift it up, just a flap of carpet and underneath is this rubber bung

 

elysion_spare_wheel_4.jpg

 

Underneath the bung is a 17mm bolt head, then you need the funny shaped wheel brace, now you understand ? why it is that shape !!! and has two identical ends,, one at right angles for the wheels and the other is straight on the bar so that it can undo this bolt through the floor and clear the rear boot lip.

elysion_spare_wheel_5.jpg

 

This is what that bolt head is attached to, that rusty bolt dropping through to the left and front of the picture, it is linked to the hook you can see there behind the bolt and obviously releases the hook down wards allowing the tyre cradle to come off and the tyre to be removed.

elysion_spare_wheel_8.jpg

 

Here you see the cradle and the hook in shot.

elysion_spare_wheel_6.jpg

 

Here is the tyre and as suspected a 16" version.    Only 20 psi in it too, should be 60 psi... looks like its never been off and came complete with gravel, in the rim, from Japan !

 

elysion_spare_wheel_7.jpg

 

So an elaborate system but simple to use, when you know how,,,, now where is that owners manual again...

 

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Very pleased with state of the underside of Elly, very little rust as you can see from the boot underfloor pics but spraying them NOW is essential, so a good dose of Bilt Hamber UC anti corrosion fluid went on before the tyre went back up.  Made sure all the rear bumper strengthen chassis member got a liberally coating inside and out .

Although the importer sprayed waxoil at  the underfloor I think a repeat session on the rest of the complete underside is in order too.

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4 hours ago, PTR200S said:

Here is the tyre and as suspected a 16" version. 

If i've read it right Pete, it's a 185/70/16 which is the same rolling diameter as a 235/45/18 give or take a couple of mm

http://www.etyres.co.uk/how-to-change-your-tyre-size/

Use that link (you'll need to scroll down a bit) to enter your tyre sizes and compare.

My second guess would have been the cradle with the long bolt/hook affair but you'd already suggested there wasn't a bolt hiding. ;):D

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Thanks for ref to tyre website ,.....I did actually use the tyresizecalculator.com website to compare them ! 

Like you sort of concerned it might be a problem but it is a spare after all.

However, interestingly although the tyre diameter to wheel diameter is -2.20 the actual rolling radius is good enough to have virtually no speedo errors !!

The tyresizecalulator website allows wheel size change comparison, tyre changes offset calcs etc ..worth a look rather than using tyre supplier info.

Re the spare holding method the bolt system is usually a pain to use, crawling under the car to try and release rusty bolts, this honda system is really clever? Well, , definetly good anyway !

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To all, 

I realise some of this stuff that i am posting is a bit on the mundane side for most but as there is very little info out there about the Elysion and no user manuals it might just help someone else too.. hoping this van is going to be a goodun as every one that has seen it thinks it's great too!

Here is something else that i need to find out about, how to programme a key card !!

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25 minutes ago, PTR200S said:

Here is something else that i need to find out about, how to programme a key card !!

Good luck with that Pete! I have a horrible suspicion that it might be a dealer-only thing - security reasons. You could try searching online, Stu may know of a way but i think the words "Computer",  "dealer software" and a few other expensive sounding things will come into it! :(

On the other hand, you could try one of the traditional key-cutting places - as technology has moved on, so have they and it's just possible they can do it.

After all, it's just an electronic lock.............. ;):D

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That's true, Dave ? A traditional key cutter now has an electronic arsenal to just like we have moved on in tools to Code readers etc I guess ! 

Thing about the key card is the fact you have to carry it with you and forgetting to take it out of the vehicle is a no, no. The "ignition key" is a permanent fixture in the Elysion.

One annoying thing about the key card is that it locks the vehicle up as you walk away... neat one thinks.... NO ! it means you can't leave it unlocked even in the driveway without leaving the key card inside the van... which also means that the ignition circuit is live and good to go.... any nerdowell can have it away.

So when I am loading/unloading the card is with me... unload, go  away, come back for second load can't get in the rear door.... why because the key card does not operate on that part !?  Have to go to a side door open the door, close it and return to the rear to open the door... if you step too far away from the van on your travels to the rear end the fekin thing locks it up again.......................???

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18 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said:

As for the thing about the doors locking etc, is there not an override that can be done?:lol:

Who knows, just need an owners manual !!!

Ummmm, isn't that where we started !!! ? 

Have discovered if I leave doors open and take key card away and leave it out of range then it does isolate the ignition circuit but doesn't set the alarm ..... Not sure if i then close the doors whether it autolocks... Next time, if I remember!

Edit, yep, as soon as the doors are closed the car locks and sets the alarm even though doors had been open around 6 hours whilst doing jobs inside.

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After this morning work / drive I am on Elly ( eh?) again this saffy for a few hours, well on and off anyway.

First off was the third PS fluid change within 4 days and just a couple hundred miles under the wheels.... its still black but a lighter shade of black !

Still like the Coupe, Tourer x2, this is how it is when no-one gives a sh%$ about this sort of maintenance, read also cabin filters ?

The steering is feeling so much better now and the creaking etc has gone, almost a light feel to the steering now so another couple of changes should do it.

Slightly concerned on some jerkiness from the gearbox under moderate acceleration..  wonder what sort of ATF they put in the box at the importers.if indeed they did..

I assume that this box, 5 speed version, for that age will still be Z1 compatible stuff?... Stu the Guru, what do you reckon ? ?

When my new ramps arrive, increased load capacity !, I will have a look see underneath and check box sump plug.. might be able to see if it has EVER been off!

Another odd thing is the wiper sweep, what do you guys reckon about this : car was dusty, so dry for weeks, and so shows up the sweep well ?

26" Driver and 24" passenger currently... and NOT Denso ?

elysion_wiper_1.jpgelysion_wiper_2.jpg

Also discovered a couple of door rubbers have got slightly torn, so used black Tiger Seal which sticks like sh1T to a shovel and yet is flexible, to repair them.  A 15" tear on the lower rear rubber in the rear door might be a problem but looks to be holding.

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19 minutes ago, PTR200S said:

I assume that this box, 5 speed version, for that age will still be Z1 compatible stuff?... Stu the Guru, what do you reckon ? ?

A couple of changes with Valvoline should do it Pete, if the bolt is a little tight, tighten it first and then slacken and replace the washer...

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Odd wiper lengths seem to be the thing these days! I just hope in a way the importer serviced the gearbox fluid the same way they appear to have done everything else - in other words checked the level if you were lucky!

It might simply be low on ATF and as far as i'm aware, anything before about 2008 should still be on Z1 compatible but get Stus opinion on that as firstly the JDM market may have been different and secondly, my knowledge doesn't extend to the newer stuff. ;):D

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41 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said:

Odd wiper lengths seem to be the thing these days! I just hope in a way the importer serviced the gearbox fluid the same way they appear to have done everything else - in other words checked the level if you were lucky!

It might simply be low on ATF and as far as i'm aware, anything before about 2008 should still be on Z1 compatible but get Stus opinion on that as firstly the JDM market may have been different and secondly, my knowledge doesn't extend to the newer stuff. ;):D

The odd wiper lengths are, erm, odd !  its the sweep area that in the centre of the screen is far too low...... the drivers wiper is 4" short of the top of the screen and the passenger one is about two inches short.  Just can't find the lengths of the wipers it should have, or indeed confirm if these are correct.... not crucial but I need to confirm one way or another as I can see it being a problem in the rain... if it ever rains again !!

ATF level is correct and clean, importer even showed me the dipstick when handing it over and , crucially, new what to take off to get at it !! Whether it is the correct oil is another matter.... need to check my stock of Z1 oil as Coupe has had a few changes ! ?

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47 minutes ago, hughezee said:

A couple of changes with Valvoline should do it Pete, if the bolt is a little tight, tighten it first and then slacken and replace the washer...

Thanks, Stu, will get on it as soon as my ramps arrive, current hydraulics are not man enough to lift the tone of weight at either end !!

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1 hour ago, PTR200S said:

The odd wiper lengths are, erm, odd !  its the sweep area that in the centre of the screen is far too low...... the drivers wiper is 4" short of the top of the screen and the passenger one is about two inches short.  Just can't find the lengths of the wipers it should hav

Do you know what i would do Pete? I'd either get two 25" blades and call it good or measure how much i could extend the passenger wiper by without contacting the A pillar, double it and add it on to 24" (current passenger blade length) to find the longest blade i could fit on the passenger side.

If this happened to be 26" (that's a mahoosive blade!) then i'd just fit a pair of 26" jobbies, that way i could check that they didn't foul each other as the wipers errr........... wiped! Then if i still wanted a longer drivers one, tape a lolly stick to the bottom end of the drivers wiper to extend the overall length of the bottom end half an inch at a time (when that is doubled, it is an inch on the total length) until the passener side fouled the lolly stick as they start their wipe then go down half an inch. Measure the extension at that point, double it and add it to 26" and that's your drivers wiper blade.

Come to think of it, you might be as well to use the lolly stick idea on the top end of the passenger wiper first to make sure it doesn't foul the drivers wiper.

It makes sense how i read it but if it doesn't make sense to you i'll try and explain better - i'm not sure i've explained it that well! ;):D

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