Administrators hughezee Posted September 11, 2015 Administrators Report Share Posted September 11, 2015 Well I’ve immobilised my accord by damaging the radiator, either shifting the leaves between the condenser and radiator or while I was fitting a new PAS cooler, yeah you can stop laughing it wasn’t obvious damage, I just noticed a moist patch at the bottom of the radiator about 2 hours later and there was no pressure in the system either So I won’t be using the car until it’s replaced I have found one for £52 and a OEM Denso one for 80 ish, I was going to replace it when I did the ATF cooler as it looked past its best anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member Retro Rich Posted September 12, 2015 Founding Member Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 That's a shame isn't it. On a positive note it could of failed whilst you were out driving, so I think you were lucky there. This begs my next question. I know you're very careful whilst working, so I suspect the radiator galleries were heavily corroded at the joins to break and leak coolant so easily. Does this seem likely to you? Should the radiator normally require replacement at this point in the cars life? I think I could have immobilised my car on several occasions had you not intervened. Crushed stainless steel back box comes to mind :-D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member Cryistic Posted September 12, 2015 Founding Member Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 I once immobilised a P100 pickup into the side of a transit van at 60mph, that didn't polish out I think if you have more than 1 car available it's quite easy to let something stand before it's fixed, I've left the S2000 on the drive for a week due to a shagged front calliper but that's about it. Are rads easily available or is the quality of pattern parts the issue? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted September 12, 2015 Author Administrators Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 Should the radiator normally require replacement at this point in the cars life? I will probably find its screen wash or PAS fluid when I pull it all out now In regards to routine replacements the top and bottom hoses are due 100k like the water pump so the radiator I would say the same as the hoses considering the effort involved getting them out without damaging the old one Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted September 12, 2015 Author Administrators Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 Are rads easily available or is the quality of pattern parts the issue? There are 2 UK options and 5 others from the USA, so I think I'm going to try an after market radiator on this occasion just to get the car back on the road I have never had any real issues with them on civics ect Famous last words Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted September 12, 2015 Author Administrators Report Share Posted September 12, 2015 5 hours or so later Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member Mazda Man Posted September 13, 2015 Founding Member Report Share Posted September 13, 2015 Oh dear..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted September 14, 2015 Author Administrators Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 New Radiator ordered, not before I double checked all the details and almost £300 less than Honda's price should arrive in two days Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member Brett Posted September 14, 2015 Founding Member Report Share Posted September 14, 2015 Good result Stu and a. Huge saving on OEM prices Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted September 16, 2015 Author Administrators Report Share Posted September 16, 2015 Well the radiator arrived safely and is a perfect fit in every sense, so I'm installing my ATF cooler along with it Old rad' is out, so look out for a new thread on the new install' soon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted September 20, 2015 Author Administrators Report Share Posted September 20, 2015 The Accord Coupe will be back on the road by Tuesday next week when my new MAGNEFINE-RAYBESTOS filter arrives 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted September 22, 2015 Author Administrators Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 Check it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted September 27, 2015 Author Administrators Report Share Posted September 27, 2015 All great with the Accord but it looks like the shuttles radiator needs replacing now, with several tiny cracks appearing around he base of the top hose connection area and Retro Rich has been loosing a little coolant lately and I confirmed today his radiator is on its way out as well Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member Retro Rich Posted September 28, 2015 Founding Member Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 At that age now Stu. We either embrace maintenance or join the masses with cars on finance. I for one, prefer the former.... :-) 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted September 28, 2015 Author Administrators Report Share Posted September 28, 2015 What worries me is I doubt the evidence on our radiators would have been picked up on a service either, leaving us no choice but to buy something newer as a result of a major failure that could have been prevented and resolved relatively cheaply 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member Retro Rich Posted September 29, 2015 Founding Member Report Share Posted September 29, 2015 That's a fair point Stu. I never considered that aspect. How damn awful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member Mazda Man Posted September 30, 2015 Founding Member Report Share Posted September 30, 2015 Good points, I will keep a careful eye on Haze's coolant level, just to be on the safe side. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welland99 Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 I spotted a slight coolant leak last winter, which was intermittent. Over the summer it stopped altogether, but I have now noticed that it has returned. It is not leaking from the hose itself, but from the joint between the head and the plastic boss to which the hose is attached. What is behind that plastic boss - is that the thermostat housing?I have checked the bolts and they are tight. What is the ikely remedy for this one. Is there a gasket or seal that will need replacement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted November 24, 2015 Author Administrators Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 Your probably long over due for a coolant change or the thermostat is sticking and its finding a way out, the plastic connector to the block is just a connector and the one on UK F20B6 engine is metal... Also the thermostat housing + temp sensor are joined to the lower connecting hose and it located in area behind the distributor Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welland99 Posted November 24, 2015 Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 Your probably long over due for a coolant changeYou may be correct about that. I'm strugglng to remember if I have ever changed it, but when examining it the other day I noted that it was a nice clear green colour (not rusty and opaque like old coolant can look). But just changing the coolant won't fix a leak, will it?the thermostat is sticking and its finding a way outHow would this cause a leak? The engine warms up very quickly even in cold weather, and in hot weather or traffic, I've not noticed the temperature getting high. So, I haven't seen any other evidence of thermostat issues. the plastic connector to the block is just a connector and the one on UK F20B6 engine is metalSo, would I need a new plastic connector? Or, do I take the old one off and replace a seal or gasket? A part of me wants to buy a bottle of leak fix stuff, but another part of me is cringing at the very thought....Also the thermostat housing + temp sensor are joined to the lower connecting hose and it located in area behind the distributor I see, thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted November 24, 2015 Moderators Report Share Posted November 24, 2015 Firstly congratulations on haveing the 1000th topic on the forum and the MoT pass! Think i'm right in saying this thread is the 1000th thread anyway, i saw the topic ount at 999 then it jumped to 1001, both of your posts in the time-frame, this was the earlier one!. Anyway, back to the subject matter - whatever you do, don't ever put any form of "snake oil leak fix" in a Honda powered car! The water channels in some areas are particularly narrow and easily blocked and just to be awkward, their size is inversely proportional to the correct running of the engine! For example, the water channels in the throttle body are very small but feed various sensors according to which engine and/or fuelling set up you have. A blockage here could for example prevent a coolant temperature sensor working correctly resulting in an incorrect mixture. I've not had that part of but i would make a good guess there is an "O" ring groove in the back of the plastic stub. Chances are a bit of aluminium corrosion or limescale has got on the "O" ring and grown, in the way crystals grow. Draining the system down to below this level, removing and cleaning the stub and fitting a new "O" ring with either silicone grease (for preference) or Vaseline to prevent the "O" ring snagging and refitting the stub should cure it. You may need to clean the corrosion from the block and the stub too. You may, if you're lucky, get away with cleaning and re-using the old "O" ring but for the price of an "O" ring isn't worth chancing it.If my guess is right and either some limescale or aluminium corrosion is growing like a crusttal then the increased pressure when the engine gets hot will creep past the "crystal" and antifreeze has a habit of finding the smallest crevice, hole, crack etc to get out to the outside world.Fairly sure Stu can supply the "O" ring or if it's a gasket that instead. He will also be able to confirm whether it's an "O" ring or gasket for you. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6vtec Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Hello Everyone, I seem to be loosing coolant somewhere and just can't figure where the leak could be. I have replaced all the hoses to do with engine cooling, replaced thermostat, used Honda blue coolant and prior to replacing the radiator cap the engine was hot. Now I have replaced the cap the engine is nice and warm to touch. After reading other cooling issues on here, I reckon its go to be the radiator itself that is on its way out because my rad seems to look like the pics on other threads. I did do a 50 mile round trip the other day and it didn't use any coolant and yesterday when I took the car out for a really good spin, and well keeping within the speed limits on the motorway and doing a 60 mile round trip it had used approx 400ml of coolant and the engine was warm to touch. This morning I topped up to max level and went to the petrol garage and back home which is a 3 mile trip, checked the coolant this morning and its approx 400ml above the max level. Am I just being paranoid or is it best to replace the rad? Temp gauge has always been at a third of the way up on the dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted January 1, 2016 Author Administrators Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Very likely you had some air in the system buddy as I've found 99% of the time turning the air in the car back to cold and loads more air will be purged as result and up to 800ml more coolant is needed to bring back to the level. Also I'm not a big fan of Honda's Type 2 coolant had so many problems with it, although diluting it to a 35% mix which is the specified for most Honda engines it will normally settle down even some Honda dealers are using other brands, maybe it's a cost thing but I doubt it personally 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6vtec Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Cheers Stu,Is it best just to keep an eye on it and top un when required? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V6vtec Posted January 1, 2016 Report Share Posted January 1, 2016 Don't need to do anything else? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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