Mangoman Posted March 23, 2017 Report Share Posted March 23, 2017 Thank you once again! Where the hell would we be without this guy!!! (Buying something else I fear). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted March 24, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted March 24, 2017 I am going to get one of these (or two!) and give them a try... assuming I can't get a replacement locally. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2x-White-T3-Neo-Wedge-1-SMD-LED-Bulbs-Cluster-Instrument-Dash-Control-Lights-12V-/152204726549?hash=item23701bd115:g:gygAAOSwYIxYA2t3 Edit; due touchdown tomorrow, tuesday 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted April 3, 2017 Moderators Report Share Posted April 3, 2017 On 23/03/2017 at 1:03 PM, Mangoman said: Is the Hazard Switch supposed to be lit? Yes, so you can find it in the dark if you breakdown. At one time it was an MoT failure if it wasn't lit, now they seem to let it go so maybe they've changed the law again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted January 5, 2019 Report Share Posted January 5, 2019 I'm just being lazy really as it's cold and dark and I don't want to go out. Is the 3 position switch for the headlamp adjustment supposed to be illuminated? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted January 5, 2019 Author Administrators Report Share Posted January 5, 2019 Would make sense if it was but I haven't come across one pre-2001 that has a bulb in the switch, but since it wasn't available in the states they didn't go all out to illuminate all the switch(s) until 2000-2002 I remember sourcing an illuminated switch for another member a while ago. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted January 7, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted January 7, 2019 I don't think i've ever seen an illuminated headlamp range control which is incredibly stupid in my eyes. Many people don't even know about the existence of them though or what they're for which is even worse! Maybe if they were illuminated more people would know about them though......... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member Mazda Man Posted January 13, 2019 Founding Member Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 Pretty sure it isn’t illuminated, don’t think it was in my previous 1999 V6. Strange really. What’s strange too is that my KB1 Legend doesn’t have a headlight level switch? 🤔 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted January 13, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted January 13, 2019 1 hour ago, Lennie Legend said: Pretty sure it isn’t illuminated, don’t think it was in my previous 1999 V6. Strange really. What’s strange too is that my KB1 Legend doesn’t have a headlight level switch? 🤔 Have you got hid lamps? If so its probably got self leveling light units and so doesn't have a manual switch. Not sure if led factory also have them too? Never had a car new enough to know 😄 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted May 10, 2020 Founding Member Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 Guys, the cluster bulbs above my rev counter and part of my speedo intermittently work. Any suggestions what could be causing this? 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted May 10, 2020 Moderators Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 Often as bulbs get older Ahsy, the contacts oxidise. Once the contacts get a bit warm in use, the oxidisation goes high resistance and stops current flow. Usually pulling the bulbs out and refitting them a couple of times is enough movement to clean the contacts or you could just renew the bulbs. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted May 10, 2020 Author Administrators Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 Sorry to hear of your niggle mate, could be a connection issue as Dave suggested, I would start with re-seating the plugs on the cluster to see if it goes away. Should nothing change, it could be the drivers multiplexer unit is failing, some topics linked below... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted May 10, 2020 Founding Member Report Share Posted May 10, 2020 Thank you, I give it a go tomorrow(maybe) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted May 13, 2020 Founding Member Report Share Posted May 13, 2020 I have removed the cluster and am having difficulty twisting open the bulbs on the back panel circled in red. I don’t want to force it just in case I’m doing something wrong. Any suggestions? I take it the 4 white ones across the middle are for the illumination of the dials? The black one on the left has 2 wires that are connected to it which looks like it feeds the 2 bulbs at the top of the cluster(shown below which aren’t working)? Do I need to remove the rear white cover to get to the bulb for the “low fuel” light? Last question, mainly aimed at Stu, is the perplex cover on the front of the dials Glued as well as screwed? I remember my last coupe was both when I replaced the dials but not quite sure if all the Accord CG2s are? Some of the USA models shows them as just screwed. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted May 14, 2020 Founding Member Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 I managed to get the large bulbs holders off by gently twisting with a set of pliers. Looks like 3 out of 4 are a smokey dark colour so suggesting they’re blown. This is going to be an expensive exercise. Another question.....the sunroof switch is divided in to 3 parts.....the middle button and the bottom button is illuminated however the top button which is the close position with a picture of a car coloured in white is not illuminated. Does anyone know if this top button should be illuminated? There are 2 bulbs inside the switch which align with the middle and bottom buttons which suggests that maybe the top button is not illuminated. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted May 14, 2020 Author Administrators Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 12 hours ago, AhsyV6 said: Last question, mainly aimed at Stu, is the perplex cover on the front of the dials Glued as well as screwed? The cluster clear cover is held on a couple of smallish screws and a strip of adhesive on the CG2 , CG4 can be either. 10 hours ago, AhsyV6 said: Another question.....the sunroof switch is divided in to 3 parts.....the middle button and the bottom button is illuminated however the top button which is the close position with a picture of a car coloured in white is not illuminated. Does anyone know if this top button should be illuminated? There are 2 bulbs inside the switch which align with the middle and bottom buttons which suggests that maybe the top button is not illuminated All three parts of the button are illuminated by two bulbs buddy, so its likely one of the bulbs has blown. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted May 14, 2020 Founding Member Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 Thanks Stu. The rear of my panel looks different to the rear panel shown in the Manual picture....can you confirm if the 5 bulbs circled in red are “ 37102SA5003 SOCKET ASSY., BULB (14V 3.4W) (NS) (BASE:BLACK) £6.73”? AKA T10 bulbs? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted May 14, 2020 Author Administrators Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 1 hour ago, AhsyV6 said: can you confirm if the 5 bulbs circled in red are “ 37102SA5003 SOCKET ASSY., BULB (14V 3.4W) (NS) (BASE:BLACK) £6.73”? Yep all five are a low wattage T10, 501 type bulb, so you can get them for a lot less than Honda prices. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted May 14, 2020 Moderators Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 Little tip Ahsy when you're hunting for bulbs, look for 12V 3W as the 14V 3.4W are the USA way of specifying the same thing. If you do 14/12 x 3 = 3.5W which is close enough to say the bulbs are the same. It's like they specify 25W brake light bulbs, same applies, 14/12 x 21 = 24.5W, same bulbs but different output for the higher voltage. I'm not sure if the multiplexer on yours can cope with LED bulbs, Stu can confirm that but if you find some, anything over about 100Lm should give you enough brightness. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted May 14, 2020 Founding Member Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 3 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said: I'm not sure if the multiplexer on yours can cope with LED bulbs, Stu can confirm that but if you find some, anything over about 100Lm should give you enough brightness. Funnily enough I ordered the following yesterday: https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B07V6HS2Z1?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image Only thing is they could take until August to arrive🥴 As always thanks for your advice. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted May 14, 2020 Moderators Report Share Posted May 14, 2020 Which August though? Hope they land quicker than that for you and do the job! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted May 15, 2020 Founding Member Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 On 5/14/2020 at 3:14 PM, Laird_Scooby said: Little tip Ahsy when you're hunting for bulbs, look for 12V 3W as the 14V 3.4W are the USA way of specifying the same thing I take it that a 5w 501 would be much too high and a little dangerous? 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted May 15, 2020 Founding Member Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 Cheers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted May 15, 2020 Moderators Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 Yes - you'll be doing Gremlin impressions "AAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrgggggggghhhhhhhhhhh!!!!! Bright lights!" It could also potentially melt the instrument cluster and would also burn out quicker. That's without taking into account any current problems with the dimmer and/or multiplexer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member AhsyV6 Posted May 15, 2020 Founding Member Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 4 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: Yes - you'll be doing Gremlin impressions "AAAAAAaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrgggggggghhhhhhhhhhh!!!!! Bright lights!" It could also potentially melt the instrument cluster and would also burn out quicker. That's without taking into account any current problems with the dimmer and/or multiplexer. Thanks for clarifying.....sometimes I need to ask these dumb questions. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted May 15, 2020 Moderators Report Share Posted May 15, 2020 The dumbest question is the one that nobody asks................ That's my philosphy lesson for the day over with, you'll be relieved to hear! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now