98-02 Accord Coupe, Hatch, Saloon Anti Roll Bar Bushes "REAR"

[Chrismas]

Doing the rear drop links (ARB links in another language) and these things are a bugger. Rusted on, and not a lot of room to get a power tool in there , other than maybe a Dremel. The links that are fitted are the type with the Allen key slot in the threaded part of the bolt, and it's been rounded off, probably by rust....no facility to get a spanner on to hold the bolt, while I attack the nut. I might just be able to get a drill in there, so I think this will be the way forward. Any tips greatly appreciated.

[Laird_Scooby]

Can you get an impact wrench to drive the nut? If so, use a crowbar or similar to put tension on the drop link and give the impact wrench a whizz. Alternatively, get a ring spanner on the nut and mole grips on the pin to prevent it turning - wire brush and lube the threads with penetrating fluid before you start as well using either method.

If the nut binds on the pin coming off, you can probably get in there with a hacksaw to cut the pin (or the Dremel with a cut-off disc) and remove them that way. That's what i had to do on my CR-V when i did the rear drop links. Probably more room on the CR-V to get in there with things like hacksaws and impact wrenches though.

[Chrismas]

1 hour ago, Laird_Scooby said:

Can you get an impact wrench to drive the nut? If so, use a crowbar or similar to put tension on the drop link and give the impact wrench a whizz. Alternatively, get a ring spanner on the nut and mole grips on the pin to prevent it turning - wire brush and lube the threads with penetrating fluid before you start as well using either method.

If the nut binds on the pin coming off, you can probably get in there with a hacksaw to cut the pin (or the Dremel with a cut-off disc) and remove them that way. That's what i had to do on my CR-V when i did the rear drop links. Probably more room on the CR-V to get in there with things like hacksaws and impact wrenches though.

some good tips here. I abandoned it yesterday, as the light was going ..bloody autumn...should have done this in the summer, yet there;s always something nicer to do in the summer!! I managed to get the impact on it, but it just kept turning, and the mole grips kept slipping ! It's not the end of the world, so I'll have to get up in the morning and allocate a day, instead of an afternoon. I'm thinking split the nut with a Dremel............watch this space.

[PaulS]

How feasible would it be to take the whole unit off and work on the problem off the car where you have more space....?  Other than that, I would strongly consider cutting the bush bolt through  with a dremel (or angle grinder if you can get that in  (easier when the unit is off the car though!)

[PaulS]

Another thought is that you might find a stilson wrench grips better than a mole wrench if you have space to use it.  And there is the possibility of welding on a nut with good edges onto the rounded bolt end...

[Chrismas]

1 hour ago, PaulS said:

Another thought is that you might find a stilson wrench grips better than a mole wrench if you have space to use it.  And there is the possibility of welding on a nut with good edges onto the rounded bolt end...

The Dremel sounds best! I don't weld well enough.... I only own a stick welder, and that might be too fierce. 

[welland99]

On 10/26/2023 at 12:38 PM, Chrismas said:

Doing the rear drop links (ARB links in another language) and these things are a bugger. Rusted on, and not a lot of room to get a power tool in there , other than maybe a Dremel. The links that are fitted are the type with the Allen key slot in the threaded part of the bolt, and it's been rounded off, probably by rust....no facility to get a spanner on to hold the bolt, while I attack the nut. I might just be able to get a drill in there, so I think this will be the way forward. Any tips greatly appreciated.

I have managed to cut mine off with a hacksaw when I had the same problem. I have seen some which have a place to put a spanner to stop the shaft turning. Beats me why they don't all have it,because IMHO the hex drive socket in the end is a rubbish idea.

[Laird_Scooby]

1 hour ago, welland99 said:

Beats me why they don't all have it,because IMHO the hex drive socket in the end is a rubbish idea.

The Honda originals are the hex socket ones, some aftermarket ones use the same idea (mine did) and others have two flats for spanners as you describe.

On my old Rover, that had 2 flats for an 11mm spanner and the nut (If memory serves) was 17mm (might have been 15mm) so i don't know why Honda tried being clever using hex sockets instead, especially as the original idea worked better.