Administrators hughezee Posted April 16, 2015 Administrators Report Share Posted April 16, 2015 This topic will apply to most Honda's and it was a recent M.O.T advisory on Retro Riches Coupe so just thought I would share a few shots of me replacing mine Nice easy job and apologies for the picture quality "Phone Camera" 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welland99 Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 Before changing the bushes, were there any symptoms evident, such as clunking or creaking over uneven roads? And what was the cause of the MOT advisory - was it perished rubber (visual), or play in the bushes? I've been experiencing an intermittent clunking noise for years from the front end. There has never been any advisory or fail from the MOT test, so I presumed that all the ball joints were good. Was wondering if it could be the front anti-roll bar bushes. When changing the anti roll bar bushes, can it be done with one wheel on the ground and one off the ground? Or, will this stress the anti-roll bar and make it difficult / impossible to get the bracket back on? Or, does it need to be done with the anti-roll bar unstressed (ie both wheels off the ground or both wheels on the ground). 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted April 18, 2015 Author Administrators Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 Good question(s) m8y and your spot on in regards to a visual advisory on Retro Rich's coupe the ones on my coupe looked about the same as his, with some slight movement so decided to replace them along with replacing the rear stabilizer drop links and it's tightened up the car no end. If you getting a knocking or a rattle maybe worth checking out this post: http://honda6.ipbhost.com/index.php?/topic/1995-knocks-and-knocking-when-driving-at-low-speeds/ In regards to replacing the rear anti roll bar bushes you can replace them without to much difficulty as there's not really much tension until they are secured. So if you can squeeze under the car jacking it up shouldn’t be necessary. In regards to replacing the front anti roll bar bushes you will need to jack up the front of the car completely with the wheels removed (pictured above) and i would advise removing both front stabilizer links (pictured below) this will relieve the tension in the anti roll bar, but it is heavy so caution is advised. You can try it without removing the stabilizer links and levering the bar down to release the bushes? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welland99 Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 You can try it without removing the stabilizer links and levering the bar down to release the bushes? That is the strategy I was going to try, as it involves the least work. If I get the car up on my ramps, I'll be able to access both clamps easily at the same time, but, I don't know if the job can be done when the car is on its wheels. What do you think? It can be difficult to take off the drop links, especially if the nuts are seized. When I've replaced any in the past, I've ended up using a hacksaw! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
welland99 Posted April 18, 2015 Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 Good question(s) m8y and your spot on in regards to a visual advisory on Retro Rich's coupe the ones on my coupe looked about the same as his, with some slight movement so decided to replace them How did you detect the slight movement? Did you mean on the road, whilst driving, or by pulling / pushing something? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted April 18, 2015 Author Administrators Report Share Posted April 18, 2015 I replaced my shocks and springs all round, which was down to age really and ended up experimenting with ride height ect. I didn't have any concerns as the car drove silent beforehand. Nevertheless I decided check everything before and after with a bar like a MOT tester would, as I didn't want any noises or rattles like some people get after lowering their car. So I ended up replacing allot of suspension related parts and the car still drives great and handles better than any ever Yeah the fronts links a can be a fiddle but the rears I just removed the hole bar (pictured below) and brackets and then cut them off with angle grinder Back onto the front bushes, I would recommend taking the front wheels off, simply down to the amount of upward tension there would be and trying re-align the bush bracket could be a problem Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted April 22, 2015 Moderators Report Share Posted April 22, 2015 If it's any help, on mine i find it easiest to drive the front of the car onto the ramps, loosen the drop-link bolts, loosen the clamp bolts on the bushes and then if i'm renewing both the drop links and the bushes, i remove the bushes first, fit the new ones and tighten the bolts finger tight so there is still some movement. Then i remove the bolts for the drop links, renew the drop links and refit the bolts finger tight. Then i grab hold of the anti roll bar as centrally as i can manage and give it a shake to help settle it into its most "natural" position in the bushes. Then, with the weight of the car on the wheels (via the ramps) i tighten all the bolts to the specified torque. As a rule of thumb, any time any work is done on the suspension/steering, the nuts/bolts should only be fully tightened when the weight of the car is on its wheels so the various components are in their "normal" position. As for the rear bushes and drop links, similar to the front but due to the wheel being in the way of the lower rear drop link bolts it has to be jacked up and the wheels removed. Then the same procedure as above with final tightening being done with the weight of the car on the wheels - kind of tricky so i put an axle stand under each rear hub, let the weight of the car onto the hubs and tighten the bolts i can't get to when it's on the ramps followed by the rest of the bolts. Then jack it up again and refit the wheels. Finally once the wheels are back on and the car is back on the ground, tighten the wheel nuts with a torque wrench. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Mc Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Just had a random nosey and poke as I noticed something hanging down. Turns out it was old crusty coating from anti roll/sway bar going underneath the back. Good thing though, pulling the rest off, it clunked the same clunk i hear occasionally whilst driving. Further inspection and the nearside bush is all but gone! Anyone know if this is the correct part number - 52306S82A01 ? Also fitting wise, is it just the two bolts and swap over? Access looks ok without jacking. Thanks 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted February 1, 2021 Moderators Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Pretty much the method for replacement, yes. Don't forget to change both, even if the other one looks ok, chances are it's not far behind the dodgy one. Can't help on the part number i'm afraid, i expect Stu will be along soon to confirm the part number though. Tighten the bolts fully only when it's resting on its wheels again just to be on the safe side and prevent any undue strain on the new bushes. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Mc Posted February 1, 2021 Report Share Posted February 1, 2021 Bolts look in good condition which is more than can be said for the rest under there in places. So many arms and links! Tempted to take it off completely if that's simple enough, blast all the rot off and coat it in something suitable and shiny. Or replace but i doubt there's anything available in this country. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted February 2, 2021 Author Administrators Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 On 2/1/2021 at 9:57 PM, Andy Mc said: Tempted to take it off completely if that's simple enough, blast all the rot off and coat it in something suitable and shiny. Or replace but i doubt there's anything available in this country. The rear antiroll bush replacement isn't too bad TBH, just spray some penetrating lube on the top of the bush retainers bracket as the bolts go up though into a small space that is open to the elements and they can easily get stuck and snap off and the part number for the D busing you have is correct 52306-S82-A01 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Mc Posted February 2, 2021 Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 Ta, lets hope bolts don't let go then 🙏 i can only see some aftermarket ones on ebay a pair for 15quid fits the 2.0 litre too. £30 for one at Honda 😳 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted February 2, 2021 Author Administrators Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 4 minutes ago, Andy Mc said: £30 for one at Honda 😳 I have new genuine ones on the rear but blueprint ones on the front and some new Delphi arms on the rear, I wouldn't hesitate to use Delphi ones on the rear: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Anti-Roll-Bar-Bush-fits-HONDA-ACCORD-CG-2-0-Rear-Left-or-Right-98-to-03-Delphi/333799402310? 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Mc Posted February 2, 2021 Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 Thank you for the back up knowledge on parts manufacturers. Will order these now 👍 Then wait for the drop links to go straight after 😆 2 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted February 2, 2021 Moderators Report Share Posted February 2, 2021 57 minutes ago, Andy Mc said: Then wait for the drop links to go straight after 😆 Get them before they get you in that case and renew them while the ARB is drying! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Mc Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 They've landed. And they're solid. I presumed from what I've seen they're slit so you can pop em on not slide on from the end 🤔 Hope they they fit even. Would stanley knife them open or not then? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted February 19, 2021 Moderators Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 1 hour ago, Andy Mc said: They've landed. And they're solid. I presumed from what I've seen they're slit so you can pop em on not slide on from the end 🤔 Hope they they fit even. Would stanley knife them open or not then? Some are split but if yours are solid slide them on, nice clean bar, bit of WD , straight on !!!! ,,,,,,,, like doing exhaust rubber hangers 😀 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Mc Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 What if its a manky been on uk roads 20+ years bar 😂😐😖 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted February 19, 2021 Moderators Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 They look great cleaned up and painted!!!! Get the 80 grit out and give it a good seeing to !!! Give you a chance to strip the drop links too , whilst you're at it 🤣 Or get someone else to do it !😄😄 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Mc Posted February 19, 2021 Report Share Posted February 19, 2021 Just been out and given my nuts a good lube soaking inc drop links one's. They look crusty and un-inviting mostly ☹ 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Mc Posted February 21, 2021 Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 Sorting bushes. Despite plenty of 24hr lubing one bolt has sheered. Other was tight but made it. Hints, tips n quick fixes for the remains of the bolt appreciated. About 1cm left in. Gonna have to drill! 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member PaulS Posted February 21, 2021 Founding Member Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 Hard to say what to use unless you post a picture of the issue. I have not done teh job on mine so no exoerience of that particular problem, but I have done plenty of others! My usual solutions would be: 1. a ball joint seperator (sometimes works on snapped off bolts too! 2. hub puller if you have a solid point to pull against 3. Grind off the rear of the bolt if you can get at it and bash from the newly cut off end 4. use a bolt push tool - like a hub puller but in reverse with a wind up bolt in the middle 5 Get some heat in there - use an induction heater and then give the broken bolt a good bash 6 Drill it out! If the stuck bit has a thread but no head on the other end, try a left hand drill bit, that sometimes helps unscrew the bolt 7 Use a stud extractor if there is no head on the other end 8 Resort to a normal drill it out. I would start at around a 6mm drill then work up slightly say 7mm , then 8mm etc until you get a very thin wall left on the bolt such that you can get a small chisel in and fold the remaining wall inwards in multiple sections and so not damage too much of any thread 9. Finally when the bolt remains are out, if there was a thread, try re-tapping it so that the new bolt works properly. If no thread try to gently file the hole smooth again with a round file Good luck! 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Mc Posted February 21, 2021 Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 Cheers. Can't access behind. Gone for drilling, but because of the lovely way its twisted off there's a Mr whippy style finish in the centre so drill is off centre. Started small and worked up. Gone through but now along side original thread. In other words a right mess and pain in the arse. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Mc Posted February 21, 2021 Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 Lots of faff and pigging about and many drill bits and brews later. Went to smack off the retaining bolt in the end. Figured it was ruined anyway. Fortunately it was the rear one so some access compared to non with the other. After all that simple 2min job for the bush. It was n/s that was knocking and intended to swap both, but that bolt put me right off. Car feels good and noticeably quieter! Offending article: https://www.dropbox.com/s/lswmjqqrfra1ypy/20210221_160610.jpg?dl=0 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted February 21, 2021 Moderators Report Share Posted February 21, 2021 Well done for perseverance !!!! It feels a great achievement when it comes together....... Atf now ???? 😆😆😆😆 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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