welland99

Recently, after a drive in my coupe, i noticed that one of the number plate lights was dangling from the wire in front of the number plate. Upon further investigation, i discovered that the other light was dangling behind the bumper. So, the metal brackets that hold the lights to the bumper have rusted through. 😪. Just for fun, I rang a dealer to check price and availability. After some discussion, they told me that there are two brackets (one for each light), with part number 34106SP0A01. Price is £15.42 inc vat, and Swindon stock stock shows "only 1, so that might be the last one in the world". I didn't really challenge the big about ".... in the world....", but it certainly seems likely to be the last one in the UK. No matter, I'm not really motivated to spend that much on a little metal bracket. So, I'll see what I can manufacture from my own stock! 🤔

Why is a fan needed at all? Are you worried that the new head unit will overheat?

After I cleaned everything, I could actually see the switch. It does not give the impression of being made for the harsh environment in which it is installed. Although it is probably really cheap to buy, I bet it would be difficult to find one to fit. Anyway, I decided to test the switch with my test meter and I found that the resistance across the contacts was the same when the actuator was in both positions - no resistance (well, not actually 0, but not much). Upon closer examination, I think that the switch plunger was stuck in. So, I put everything back together (leaving the switch disconnected), fettled the position of the bonnet catch so it actually catches thge bonnet, and all is well. The battery didn't go flat overnight (as it did twice last week). Maybe the problem is solved. 🙂

Over the years, I've had intermittent alarm issues on my coupe. Just to recap briefly, sometimes the alarm would not set (evidenced by indicators not flashing when the car was locked), and sometimes when armed, the alarm would be activated for no apparent reason (evidenced by the alarm sounding and the indicators flashing). Several years ago I disconnected the alarm horn and left it at that. I did consider disconnecting the bonnet catch switch, but never found the enthusiasm to do it. In the intervening years, the intermittent problem persisted, but I just ignored it and no harm was done. In the last month, things have got worse. I have noticed the alarm silently going off a fair bit (evidenced by the indicators flashing), and also, the battery has sometimes been drained to the point where it won't start the car. I'm pretty sure that the battery is fine, because sometimes it holds charge well, and other times it goes flat overnight. That is not typical symptoms of a duff battery. Anyway, I turned my attention today to the bonnet catch, with the goal of disconnecting the bonnet catch switch. In theory, this is a simple job, as there's a helpful plug to disconnect it. In reality, it involves much knuckle grazing and contortion: more than expected for something that can be seen and seemingly easily reached. Oh, and and the bonnet catch itself must be a contender for the grimiest part of the car with 20+ years of dried oil and grease mixed with 20+ years worth of road grime! I've done the following: Removed the plastic cover around the catch - partly breaking it in the process (obviously). Unbolted the bonnet catch mechanism, disconnected the pull cable to give better manoevreability, disconnected both horns, disconnected the sensor in front of the radiator (temperature sensor, I guess?), disconnected several plastic clips and brackets and FINALLY, got the bonnet catch sensor plug to a place I could get hold of it and disconnect it. You wouldn't think it would take over 90 mins to do just that, but it did. Off to clean the bonnet catch, before refitting everything (except the bonnet catch sensor plug).

So, two different coupes, both with 66k on the clock? Overuse of the exclamation mark in the description of the 2nd one is a little distracting!!!!!

The front tyres on my CG4 are wearing on the inside edges, which suggests to me that the front tracking is wrong. It has done this before, and I seem to remember that the last time it was checked the garage said that it was in tolerance. Reading this thread, it appears that the correct toe setting is parallel, so wondering what you would do if the garage finds that it is already parallel (or very close). Would you adjust it outwards anyway, given the evidence of wear on inside edges? It seems that some of you have experienced wear on inside edges even when your toe has been correct, so maybe it can't be avoided on this car? For reference, my rear tyres wear evenly, so rear setup looks perfect.

Thanks Stu. I'll transfer discussion there.

My front tyres are wearing on the inside edges, which suggests to me that the front tracking is wrong. It has done this before, and I seem to remember that the last time it was checked the garage said that it was in tolerance. I did plan to get it checked again, but before I go, does anybody happen to know the correct toe-in setting for a cg4? (Just in case the garage gets it wrong). It would be interesting to hear what wear characteristics anybody else gets on their coupe tyres. As it happens, I now have another reason to get it to a garage, because one of the front tyres has a puncture. I can't see any damage or foreign bodies, so I hope they can sort it. Aside from the wear on the inside edges (which is still legal), the front tyres are about 50% worn, and I was planning to swap them over with the rears as soon as I could find time.

Did you not consider getting your old ones refurbed?

I have not checked the region where "gle" was registered, but the original supplier of mine was in North Wales. Also, funny you mention the colour: this one looks blue in some photos and green in others. Mine is blue.

It will probably make somebody very happy! I may have seen that car before on the internet. The reg no is very similar to mine, and that's what makes it look familiar. Mine is X217 GLE. They must have been registered at almost the same time, in the same registration area, and possibly by the same Honda dealer.

I can certainly see the similarities in your photo to my 2.0 coupe.

So are new ones not available at reasonable prices?

Mine has been doing that consistently for several years. It never lasts more than 30 seconds, and it does correlate with turning the steering wheel, so I conclude it is something to do with the power steering pump.

I did have a tin of Old Spice talc, but think it is long gone.

Hi Pete, that's exactly the same place I've noticed it on mine too. I will try some talcum powder and see if it helps. I keep some in the shed and use when repairing bicycle punctures.

The surface of the trim around the centre console cubby hole is degrading on my car and feels rather sticky as a result. Does anybody else have this too? Wondering if there is any product or treatment I can apply to get rid of the sticky feeling?

Yep, this is one of the reasons why I wouldn't enjoy owning an expensive car: i would just get too cross about every little chip, scratch and blemish.

Well done, Pete. Are these "new" internals actually brand new, or are they salvaged 2nd hand? Confused by the reported wear marks on the "new" button.

Stu, what's the black stuff you put on the suspension and subframe? Is it underbody sealer?

Trouble is that most sheep fleece seems to have sticks and brambles stuck in it. Don't want that anywhere near my bodywork. 😜

Had a nice run up the A49 to Shrewsbury to meet some family - outdoors of course. Took my whole family with me for a rare road trip in the coupe with 3 passengers. Was nearly 150 miles round trip and the car ran great! The car now seriously needs a wash. Althought the roads were mostly dry, there were a few wet salty patches after recent snow which have left it rather, erm, salty. Even last night, we had snow where I live, and there was a blizzard for five minutes in Shrewsbury early afternoon. Stopped at the top of the Burway at Church Stretton for a cup of coffee on the way home and the sheep came around the car and started licking the salt off the wheels and lower body. Never seen that before! 🤣

It has just occurred to me how complex the shape of the bonnet strut is on the CG4. I wonder how long it took to finalise the design with all the bends that allow it to stow correctly when the bonnet is down? Mine occasionally gets accidentally twisted the wrong way when I'm stowing it and it is quite a conundrum to get it back in the correct orientation.

Confused by all the chatter about winding in and out the front pistons. I thought it was only the rear ones that wind in and out. Don't the front ones just push in?

Can anybody read the sticker on the steering wheel?