welland99

Are they standard fitment on the CG2? My CG4 doesn't have them.

Had they both blown? Would be interested in hearing what you think of the new bulbs.

The inside of the rear window must surely be a candidate for the most awkward in the world!

The main difference being heat: the heat of the oil, and in my case the heat from the exhaust too.

Excellent. That gives me confidence. However, my repair is just above the exhaust, so heat may be an issue - though I did use high temperature epoxy. Whereabouts is your patch?

That might make an interesting thread in its own right: when did you buy your coupe, for how much £, and how many miles, etc..... I've had mine about 15 years. It had 99K miles on the clock and I think I paid about £3K. It will probably tick over to 196k miles within the next week.....

Fixed the oil leak on the sump today with some high temperature epoxy putty. Let's see how long it lasts. 🤞 Was going to post a few pics, but can't see how to do it on a mobile phone.

Not everyone needs this. Mine packed up over 5 years ago, and I didn't bother fixing it. I just open the windows and sunroof when it's hot. It depends on what sort of use is made of the car to determine how much of an advantage it is.

Stu, yes I guess that the part in the red circle is the bit I'm talking about, though it looks different on your photo to mine. It could be just the perspective in the photo, and because it is zoomed in, it's difficult to see. Is the photo taken of a CG4 manual like mine? I'm planning the cheapest easiest fix first to see how it lasts. Epoxy putty seems like a viable solution, and there are some high temperature variants available that should be more stable close to the exhaust. Quiksteel has a big range, including this: https://www.quiksteel.com/16562tri-xtreme-heat-putty/...... but I can't find anyone selling it. Seen this on ebay, which seems like best (available) option: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-Magic-Quiksteel-Xtreme-Temperature-Fast-Repair-Epoxy-Putty-Weld-Filler-3oz/254572770059?epid=653866413&hash=item3b45b8330b:g:j~YAAOSwMXldYqOF Anybody used epoxy putty before? or this, which is cheaper: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/JB-Weld-HighHeat-Epoxy-Putty-57-g-JB8297-Heat-Temperature-Resistant-JB-WELD/383241175167?epid=10033702429&hash=item593af4407f:g:tssAAOSw4fhdubjK of course, to use the putty, I'll need to drain oil, abrade surface, degrease, etc... I don't need a solution that lasts for ever (eg new sump), just need it to last until some other bigger problem arises.......

Waiting to hear from Stu about the gearbox mounting.

Stu, What sort of job is it to remove a sump? Obviously the exhaust front pipe will need to be removed, but that should be easy on mine as the exhaust is almost new. My main query is the gearbox, the mountings for which overlap the end of the sump. My initial idea to repair the old one was partly based upon my idea that a new sump might be hard to find and/or be pretty pricey. A quick look online suggests that availability and price might not be as bad as I thought. Although ECP do not have one listed, I found this website which has quite a few: https://www.onlinecarparts.co.uk/car-brands/spare-parts-honda/accord-vi-cg-ck/10027/10589/oil-pan.html#10102 Do you think that one is right for my CG4?

...... well, if there was a leaky patch that was not close to the exhaust, I could have tried a fibre glass patch. I have heard a reIiable testimony that this does work if the sump is de-oiled and rubbed down first. But I do not know if the fibreglass resin would be stable in a hot place so close to the exhaust. I rang my local parts factor to see if they had a Magic heat proof and oil proof paint, but all they could offer was regular VHT paint. I would not expect this to be suitable. Any ideas? Might need to get a patch welded on. Worth noting that the mot expires on 1st December. So, little more than a month until the mot zone arrives. If you have any ideas about some kind of putty that will hold for a month....... or I could just live with it for the next few weeks......

So, I have news to report. I gave the sump a good wipe down this morning and then left it for a few hours to see what happened. When I returned, I noticed a patch of rust glistening on the sump. When I scratched it with a screwdriver, a flake of rust the size of my little finger nail fell off, and then I could see the oil seeping out. Hopefully this is the sole cause of the oil leak. I suppose that counts as good news, so now for the less-good news. The location of this leak is behind the exhaust front pipe, thus making a repair in this location difficult. The gap between the sump and the pipe is too small to get my finger through, but I can get a rag on the tip of my finger to clean the leaky patch. Interesting what Stu wrote about the exhaust. I'm afraid that I cannot recall if the old exhaust had a double skin, or if this new one is a single skin. But the close proximity of the exhaust to the sump will limit repair options. What to do.....?

I have not checked the tightness of the sump bolts, but I can see that those in view are dry. And the gasket is sealing well too. The gearbox mounting hides one end of the sump, so I cannot see all of the bolts and all of the gasket. The sump plug is tight and not leaking. Yes, there is oil leaking when the engine is not running. In fact the leak seems worse when the engine is not, presumably as the oil is thinner.

I only have one of these.... 😭 Anyway, the top of the engine is dry, and I've checked the oil filter is on tight enough as well - no leaks there either.

I was very sorry to discover a worrying oil leak from my coupe recently. What's worse is that I have not managed to identify the source of the leak yet. There has been some very slow seapage from the sump for years. When I say very slow, i mean seriously slow. A wipe over the sump with a rag every couple of months has been sufficient to prevent any oil drips on the path. Now, the sump is dripping! a lot! If I wipe the drips, they are back within a couple of hours. So, the oil leak could be a sudden deterioration of the porous oil sump, or, I am wondering if it could be coming from the end of the engine (gearbox end). The end of the sump nearest the gearbox is hidden behind the gearbox mounting (a cast alloy ring) and oil is dripping from this alloy ring too. Because of the location of this alloy ring, I cannot see if the oil is dripping from the sump onto the alloy ring, or coming from higher up on the engine and running onto the sump and the alloy ring. I'm going to have to try to give it a very good clean and then watch like a hawk to see if I can spot where it's coming from.

I think that one would have to be very keen to buy those. I don't think that my Lexus has any backing plates: makes it easier to inspect the brakes! Wouldn't be interesting to learn what genuine honda parts SPECIFIC TO THE COUPE are actually in stock in the supply chain.

Very good report on the brake service, Pete. The disc in your photo didn't look too bad to me, I've seen much worse. What were the pads like? How old (time & mileage) were the discs and pads?

I've seen photos of coupes with steering wheel audio controls, but was of the opinion that they were wireless. Mine didn't have this feature, does anybody else?

Those ramps look Great, Pete. I haven't seen them before. I see that you have a gravel drive, as do I. A real pain for car maintenance- how many times have you dropped a nut and lost it in the stones? 😥

Is the top pic your coupe? It looks a lot easier to access the filter than on my cg4 coupe. I recognise the little filter in your bottom pic: it's for your Xbr!

What is the difference between the S2000 filter and the "correct" CG2 filter? If it fits, then isn't that all there is to it? Also, interested to hear how you clean out the washing up bowl before it goes back in the kitchen sink! [imagine a laughing emoji here :)]

What sort of ramps do you have, Pete? Can we have a pic?

When I'm changing oil on my cg4, I can just about get under the car far enough when the front wheels are on breeze blocks - so no jacking required. I can drive up some wedges to get the wheels on the breeze blocks.

I needed a front brake caliper for my cg4 a couple of years ago and my mechanic sourced a reconditioned one quite easily.