welland99

Well, I have now opened the actuator case to look inside. I was expecting to find a mechanical problem, such as a seized motor or gears. But these things all look to be fine. The gears are glistening with grease, so I can't see a problem with them. So, if the problem is not mechanical, it must be electrical. To my naked eye, I can't spot a problem with the contacts or the tracks. They are all greased and I'm assuming that is a good thing. I must look for my magnifying glass to see if I can spot a problem like a damaged track. I'm not sure what to do now. King kong, what exactly did you do Inside the actuator?

Today, I removed the actuator. Whilst the rod was disconnected from the flap, I plugged the cables back on to see how much movement there was. It was moving about 90 degrees in each direction without any trouble. When it stopped moving in the hot direction, if I unplugged it, then plugged it back in, then adjusted the temperature hotter, the actuator would move hotter, and even do a full revolution. The same happenned in reverse when adjusting it colder.

The weird noises I was hearing happened after the car had warmed up. It was as if the servo was constantly adjusting itself and couldn't get to the position it wanted. If I turned the temperature up a notch,the problem would stop for a while before re-starting. Then, if SO turned the temperature up a notch again, the noise would stop for a while before re-starting again. Etc, etc.... I disconnected the electrical plug under the dash in early December, and have been using it like that, until today......

I've had this job on my list for 15 years and it has not risen to the top yet!

Yes. If you are going to keep the blue one, you know you will need parts sooner or later. Your blue one and mine are close relatives. Mine is also blue with a very similar number. Mine is X217GLE and yours is X272GLE. Mine is originally from Conway Honda, is that where yours is from?

One of my other cars suddenly started knocking over bumps before Christmas. It turned out to be the front anti-roll bar linkage on one side had lost a bush, so there was loads of play. Managed to change it easily.

I agree that some brake problems can be solved by cleaning and reassembly as Pete said above. However sometimes it really is the piston that needs fixing. Over the years, I have had a front caliper and a rear caliper rebuilt by a place called Big Red in Worcester. Most recently, they did a rear caliper just before Christmas, arranged by my garage. I did notice when I got the car back that one of the stainless steel pad carriers was missing: don't know how that got lost, but it's not absolutely critical, is it?

Thanks Pete, that's the one.

I'd like to remove my rear light from the boot lid to fix or replace the leaking seal, but I am fearful of causing damage if any of the nuts are seized to the bolts. My end nuts ( 2 on each side) are very likely to be seized because water has been dripping off them for years. Can anybody recall how the bolts fix to the lights? Are they factory moulded to the light?

I'm getting water in the boot, but not through the gutter seals. It is leaking into the boot lid cavity. When I open the boot, the water leaks out the edges and runs off the bolts which hold the rear light. Then, when I close it, it runs out from behind the boot lid trim on the rear lower edge. I think the water is getting into the boot lid cavity through a degraded seal between the rear light (the combined fog light and reverse light) and the boot lid. I seem to recall a very old thread in the old forum about removal and refitting the fog & reverse light to solve water ingress in this path, but I cant find it now. Is it still in the archives?

Which entry route did you use to get lanoguard into the sills? Am i correct in thinking there are a couple of rubber plugs in the bottom of the sills? Or I may be thinking of one of my other cars.

I changed the engine oil and filter on my coupe yesterday. Whilst underneath, I noticed a bit of oil seepage from behind the plastic cover that is over the timing belt. This was quite low down on the rear side of the cover and could not be seen from above. From where could this oil be coming? Crank shaft oil seal?

I keep seeing lanoguard ads too, and it is on my list to buy some. Is it water based? If yes, does that mean it can be applied to damp substrates?

It's probably my eyesight, but I can't spot the bulge in the photo.

We don't seem to have a thread about brake calipers, so I'm starting one. 🙂 At my last mot, I had a significant imbalance in the rear brakes on my CG4, but it still passed. I have checked the brakes, and the pads and slide pins are all free, so I think the piston on one caliper must be tight. I'm going back to the garage tomorrow (in advance of the next MOT, due soon), just to get it on the rollers and assess it again. In expectation that I will need to replace or refurbish a caliper, I am trying to make plans to get it done as smoothly as possible. There is a place near me called Big red, who can refurbish the caliper, but it will take them a few days. So, I wonder if: 1) Does anybody have a spare rear caliper for a CG4 that needs a refurb? Wondering if I might have it to get refurbished for my car, then replace it with my own when it comes off? Or 2) Does anybody have a good caliper to sell that I can put straight on the car? Either option would minimise the time the car is off the road. I know that you are all wanting to know if I need caliper for the left or right, and do do I 🤣! I'll report back after it has been on the rollers.

Yes, but only has a 2l engine.

Just had a look on howmanyleft.co.uk for the first time in ages. I think I may have the last remaining cg4 2.0 manual coupe, under HONDA ACCORD ES COUPE. Can This be true? Or could there be a few lingering under the "wrong" classification? Where do the CG2 coupes come in this website? I can't find any at all.

I have intermittent weird noises that seem to originate from the area around the glove box too. I have suspected that it is related to the climate control, so I may have the same issue as you. How easy was it to remove and refit? Do you have any photos?

Stu, do you have any pics of the collapsed jacking point?

When it broke, was it lifted on all 4 corners? That evens out the load. I am always extremely cautious when jacking my aging fleet at home. I really don't like jacking just one corner on the jacking points, as i feel that concentrates too much load on one point for my liking.

Is this evidence of some appreciation in the value of our coupes?

How much space do you actually gave for "stock", Stu? I have plenty of stuff in stock (not just car related) and I am always under pressure from swmbo to reduce it. 😣 (I have to tell you that auto correct wanted to change swmbo into Rambo! 😂. How apt)

Paul, you could try https://www.biggred.co.uk/ in Worcester. At my last mot, there was a significant imbalance on the rear brakes that only just passed. I think the piston is stuck on one side and I did make enquiries with bigg red, though not done anything about it yet. I think they did have the necessary seals in stock and can do the refurb if needed.

I seem to recall someone doing a write-up about changing front drop links and talking about the problem of the nut being recessed in the lower suspension arm....

Great, thanks Paul. I need to do the exact same job to my coupe, and I even think that I have a bit of old trunking lying around somewhere! I'm off to Google what a rivet nut is.