New accord v6 owner

[SteviesV6]

Afternoon everyone, I'm not new to honda or v6 but this is my first accord v6 and wow absolutely the most comfiest car I've ever driven. 

I'll pop a picture up at the end. I bought her for £1500, 6 months mot left and 60k, full service history and cambelt kit with waterpump was replaced at 52k in 2018 with garage receipt to which I've rang the garage that did it to confirm. 

I'm over the moon with her and tbh aside from some wheel arch rust and a patch to be repainted on the rear bumper she doesn't really need much. 

I will be subtly modifying her. 

First job is change the auto box fluid. What grade do i need and how much please? I have read on here but just wanted a definitive answer please. 

2nd job is do away with the original catalytic converter as I don't want to come out to find it's been cut off so can I just replace with a straight piece or will it affect the running? 

3rd is to bring her down not by loads so say 35-40mm as she sits high anyhow so advice on what's best spring wise would be most appreciated thanks. 

4th is what grade oil is best for these engines? She is 23 years old but only has 60k.

5th is I'd like the factory rear spoiler as I think it just breaks up the massive ass the car has. 

Thankyou in advance and I look forward to chatting to you all. 

 

 

[Andy Mc]

Hello and welcome! Is it one of the purple ones that were up for sale recently?

Definitely needs a spoiler to finish the look off. Look out for a breaker i suppose is best option there, unless someone on here has one perhaps. 

As for the cat, yes it'll effect running due to lambda sensors feeding back to the ecu. I think we're al in agreement that cat thieves deserve being crushed esp with Honda's high on the target list. 

Engine and autobox oil have plenty of write ups and feed back and i think it comes down to preferences and availability. Even the filter (which has the best access of any car I've owned) can be changed for the S2000 option. There's more techy guys on here who'll go into detail soon i reckon. 

Good to get a new owner on board 👍

Andy 

[hughezee]

Welcome to the club, when you get chance don't forget to share some pictures in this section:  https://honda6.ipbhost.com/forum/247-pics-projects/👍

4 hours ago, SteviesV6 said:

First job is change the auto box fluid. What grade do i need and how much please? I have read on here but just wanted a definitive answer please. 

You will need a 2.4L for a partial fluid change, not all the fluid will come out in one hit and I would suggest using Amsoil Signature Series ATF, not cheap but worth it if you're keeping the car a good while?

4 hours ago, SteviesV6 said:

2nd job is do away with the original catalytic converter as I don't want to come out to find it's been cut off so can I just replace with a straight piece or will it affect the running? 

Like member @Andy Mc said I would avoid doing anything drastic to the exhaust system, it will lose power and affect fuel economy too.

4 hours ago, SteviesV6 said:

3rd is to bring her down not by loads so say 35-40mm as she sits high anyhow so advice on what's best spring wise would be most appreciated thanks. 

I have tried various spring sets and progressive rate EIBACH springs are my preferred choice ATM.

4 hours ago, SteviesV6 said:

4th is what grade oil is best for these engines? She is 23 years old but only has 60k.

A good quality 10W40 semi-synthetic will do nicely, I have used Castrol GTX (avoid magnatec) and Mobil 1 super 2000.

4 hours ago, SteviesV6 said:

5th is I'd like the factory rear spoiler as I think it just breaks up the massive ass the car has. 

The 50 BHP add-on is a rare find these days, 😆 but they do come up for sale from time to time on eBay. 👍

[SteviesV6]

5 hours ago, Andy Mc said:

Hello and welcome! Is it one of the purple ones that were up for sale recently?

Definitely needs a spoiler to finish the look off. Look out for a breaker i suppose is best option there, unless someone on here has one perhaps. 

As for the cat, yes it'll effect running due to lambda sensors feeding back to the ecu. I think we're al in agreement that cat thieves deserve being crushed esp with Honda's high on the target list. 

Engine and autobox oil have plenty of write ups and feed back and i think it comes down to preferences and availability. Even the filter (which has the best access of any car I've owned) can be changed for the S2000 option. There's more techy guys on here who'll go into detail soon i reckon. 

Good to get a new owner on board 👍

Andy 

Hey Thankyou for the welcome and reply mate. It's a silver one that was literally put on faceache market place just as I was looking and I'd arranged to see it the next day and bought it 😁

Is there any other spoiler that's fits? I've read the Integra Type R dc2 spoiler is a fit but looks a bit too big for me I just want a factory looking one as I know they did them as an accessory. 

With regards to the cat don't they have 2 sensor m? 1 that's attached the the down pipe and the 2nd one is on the cat but that just measures temperatures so is ok to decat? I may be wrong tho. I'd love to pull the jack out if I caught one of the thieves nicking one. 

I'll have a good read regarding engine and gearbox oil but Thankyou for the welcomes again. :)) 

[SteviesV6]

Thanks @hughezee for the welcome and reply.

I'll get some pics up as I've only got a couple of her atm. 

Regarding the autobox fluid change I read that the z1 is what I need and some d1 is it best to avoid? Also when I do it is it best to do a couple of changes to get the old fluid out? 

I'll keep a look out for the eibach springs cheers. 

Defo semi synthetic for these? Massive Thankyou for the help and I'm looking now for my 50hp spoiler 😁

[hughezee]

1 hour ago, SteviesV6 said:

Regarding the autobox fluid change I read that the z1 is what I need and some d1 is it best to avoid?

Originally these coupes were filled with Honda ATF Premium which is similar to Dexron 2 in viscosity, this was replaced in the late 90's with a Honda ATF-Z1 which was similar to Dexron 3 fluids, the only real difference from the premium was stability and longevity rather than viscosity. 

Honda's current fluid which replaced Z1 for 3, 4, 5, 6-speed automatic transmissions is ATF-DW1, this is a very stable fluid but its low viscosity is the real issue. Honda Europe is aware of the issues or damage that can occur and even issuing service bulletins 😧 but have yet to offer a solution. Therefore a Honda Z1 compatible fluid is the best option and after researching fluid for many years 🤔 many brands will claim to be compatible with the former Honda Z1. However, they are actually lacking in additives which are key to Honda's and Subaru's auto transmissions to keep them functioning correctly. 

1 hour ago, SteviesV6 said:

Defo semi synthetic for these?

I personally favour a 10W30 mineral oil, rather have the real thing than synthetic 😆😆 there are plenty of discussions covering that topic.👉🏼 Seriously though unless you are going to spend big bucks on true ester-based synthetic oil you are wasting your money, so an annual service with a multigrade semi-synthetic 10W40 will be spot on. 👍

[SteviesV6]

Cheers @hughezee again for the info.

I've got to say I'm loving the comfort in these cars she picks up great and stops very well. 

Would be nice to meet up with some of you guys/girls and exchange ideas for making the car my own and see what you have done to yours and just have a general good chat about cars 😃

[Laird_Scooby]

On 3/8/2022 at 10:38 PM, SteviesV6 said:

With regards to the cat don't they have 2 sensor m? 1 that's attached the the down pipe and the 2nd one is on the cat but that just measures temperatures so is ok to decat?

If memory serves, some have the 2nd Lambda, others (earlier) don't - Stu aka @hughezee can confirm or refute. However the second Lambda sensor compares what goes into the cat with what comes out to confirm it's working effectively and isn't a temperature probe - i believe those were fitted for USDM and JDM markets, again Stu can confirm etc.

Remember if you decat it, you'll still need the cat for the MoT so i sould suggest cutting it and using service sleeves to fit a straight pipe in between so can bolt-out/bolt-in the cat as and when needed.

If you take that option, do a simple reset of the ECU by pulling a fuse or disconnecting the battery -ve terminal for 30 seconds or so then replacing. I can't remember which fuse it is for a simple reset but if memory serves it will also reset the EAT (gearbox) ECU and can be done after the 3rd or 4th part-change of the ATF. The better reset involves the use of a Honda code reader, again talk nicely to Stu if you want that option and are anywhere near Branston.

The reset should be done whether you bolt-out or bolt-in the cat and can be of benefit when you change the engine oil/filter.

Regarding the ATF, if you want to save a bit of money doing several part-changes, do the first two with Carlube ATF-U then upgrade to the Amsoil if you prefer. Usually about 3-400 miles between part-changes until you've done 3-4 and are happy the fluid is clean then do one annually or every 12k miles to keep it fresh.

Good luck with all the above, welcome to the forum too - now get some pics up!

[PTR200S]

Hi there Stevie, I apologise for my tardy welcome,  my excuse being....err, OK, got no excuse !!!, just missed the initial post for some reason !!

Anyway,  welcome indeed to H6nda, another new owner who is switched on to these underrated cars, from reading the posts !!

Great questions and hopefully some useful stuff for your perusal from all the others who were on time with their welcome 😁

Definetly need some pictures though !! 

 

 

[hughezee]

1 hour ago, Laird_Scooby said:

If memory serves, some have the 2nd Lambda, others (earlier) don't - Stu aka @hughezee can confirm or refute. However the second Lambda sensor compares what goes into the cat with what comes out to confirm it's working effectively and isn't a temperature probe - i believe those were fitted for USDM and JDM markets, again Stu can confirm etc.

Yes mainly early to mid 90's JDM models had a secondary temp sensor, virtually all B16 engined USDM & JDM motors had them with a warning light on the instrument cluster. The coupes second sensor monitors the CATS efficiency basically, you can fit a spacer but they still affect the running on the J-series V6s compared to a D-series engine which seems to work well.👍

[RevvinKevin]

22 hours ago, SteviesV6 said:

Would be nice to meet up with some of you guys/girls and exchange ideas for making the car my own and see what you have done to yours and just have a general good chat about cars

Tell me about it. Been waiting 18months and still no sign of a Honda fest 😫

[SteviesV6]

22 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said:

If memory serves, some have the 2nd Lambda, others (earlier) don't - Stu aka @hughezee can confirm or refute. However the second Lambda sensor compares what goes into the cat with what comes out to confirm it's working effectively and isn't a temperature probe - i believe those were fitted for USDM and JDM markets, again Stu can confirm etc.

Remember if you decat it, you'll still need the cat for the MoT so i sould suggest cutting it and using service sleeves to fit a straight pipe in between so can bolt-out/bolt-in the cat as and when needed.

If you take that option, do a simple reset of the ECU by pulling a fuse or disconnecting the battery -ve terminal for 30 seconds or so then replacing. I can't remember which fuse it is for a simple reset but if memory serves it will also reset the EAT (gearbox) ECU and can be done after the 3rd or 4th part-change of the ATF. The better reset involves the use of a Honda code reader, again talk nicely to Stu if you want that option and are anywhere near Branston.

The reset should be done whether you bolt-out or bolt-in the cat and can be of benefit when you change the engine oil/filter.

Regarding the ATF, if you want to save a bit of money doing several part-changes, do the first two with Carlube ATF-U then upgrade to the Amsoil if you prefer. Usually about 3-400 miles between part-changes until you've done 3-4 and are happy the fluid is clean then do one annually or every 12k miles to keep it fresh.

Good luck with all the above, welcome to the forum too - now get some pics up!

Hey pal Thankyou for the info, my main aim is to take away the risk of some b***end looking underneath and chopping it out as I've heard they are worth a fair few hundred quid. I've read on @hughezee comment that it affects the running just wondering if I've got the spacer from my 04 civic sport hopefully that will fit. I will be keeping the pre muffler and back boxes so I hope it doesn't affect the running loads.

I've got a decent honda code reader so should be able to reset everything Inc gearbox. Cheers for the info and welcomes its nice to come onto a forum and be welcomed by honda lovers. 

Still haven't got a clue how to get pics up even tho Hugh told me 😆

[SteviesV6]

20 hours ago, PTR200S said:

Hi there Stevie, I apologise for my tardy welcome,  my excuse being....err, OK, got no excuse !!!, just missed the initial post for some reason !!

Anyway,  welcome indeed to H6nda, another new owner who is switched on to these underrated cars, from reading the posts !!

Great questions and hopefully some useful stuff for your perusal from all the others who were on time with their welcome 😁

Definetly need some pictures though !! 

 

 

🤣 No problem mate you got there in the end and definitely an underrated car. Just need to do the atf as soon as even tho it's only done 60k I've read it should be silky smooth and even tho the up changes are ok the kickdown is like a kick in the back of the head even tho it pulls like a train.

[SteviesV6]

20 hours ago, hughezee said:

Yes mainly early to mid 90's JDM models had a secondary temp sensor, virtually all B16 engined USDM & JDM motors had them with a warning light on the instrument cluster. The coupes second sensor monitors the CATS efficiency basically, you can fit a spacer but they still affect the running on the J-series V6s compared to a D-series engine which seems to work well.👍

Hey Thankyou again mate your info is amazing. 

So my centre box is gone as it snapped right at the box the day I got her even tho the smaller box before it is fine. 

If I leave everything as it is and just fit a decat pipe or even the one from srs performance or what ever they are called based in sweded or Switzerland and it has the spacer and o2 sensor still fitted will it still run like shite? 

[SteviesV6]

19 hours ago, RevvinKevin said:

Tell me about it. Been waiting 18months and still no sign of a Honda fest 😫

We need to arrange a honda bus roll out and meet up 😁

[Laird_Scooby]

2 hours ago, SteviesV6 said:

So my centre box is gone as it snapped right at the box

That will definitely make it run like a bag of spanners!

Honda very cleverly tuned the length of the inlet tracts, throttle body, trunking, air filter and resonator to work with the VTEC and exactly the same on the exhaust side so any length/bore changes will cause rough running. Even on my Rover (C27, non-VTEC but the rest still applies) a small blow near the back box can make it sluggish, thirsty and rough so factor in a big hole on a bigger engine with VTEC and you have a recipe for rough running.

Yes, i forgot about the spacer to lift the second Lambda out of the main flow to fool it into thinking the cat is there and still doing its job, thanks Stu for reminding me! Don't have that problem on mine, just one Lambda per bank and no post-cat Lambda.

[SteviesV6]

1 hour ago, Laird_Scooby said:

That will definitely make it run like a bag of spanners!

Honda very cleverly tuned the length of the inlet tracts, throttle body, trunking, air filter and resonator to work with the VTEC and exactly the same on the exhaust side so any length/bore changes will cause rough running. Even on my Rover (C27, non-VTEC but the rest still applies) a small blow near the back box can make it sluggish, thirsty and rough so factor in a big hole on a bigger engine with VTEC and you have a recipe for rough running.

Yes, i forgot about the spacer to lift the second Lambda out of the main flow to fool it into thinking the cat is there and still doing its job, thanks Stu for reminding me! Don't have that problem on mine, just one Lambda per bank and no post-cat Lambda.

Ah no way well I meant to say I got the larger middle box removed and a straight piece put in its place. No extra noise tbh. 

Accord 2 Door Coupe 3.0i V6 1998-2003 Decat silenced / test pipe
https://www.akr-performance.com/parts/accord-2-door-coupe/1998-2003/30i-v6/exhaust-system/decat-silenced-test-pipe

The link is the only proper decat I can find. 

[Laird_Scooby]

You should be ok with that centre box linked out by a length of straight pipe, most of the silencing tends to be done on the back box(es) so probably just a resonator so you may get a bit of drone at certain speeds and/or an extra loud growl under hard acceleration or high speed driving but if you drive fast enough, you won't hear it!

Those decat pipes you found should work, if you get the one with the test port you could use that to mount the second Lambda, perhaps with the spacer to help mask the CO from the sensor and fool the ECU into thinking it still has a functional cat.

[SteviesV6]

2 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said:

You should be ok with that centre box linked out by a length of straight pipe, most of the silencing tends to be done on the back box(es) so probably just a resonator so you may get a bit of drone at certain speeds and/or an extra loud growl under hard acceleration or high speed driving but if you drive fast enough, you won't hear it!

Those decat pipes you found should work, if you get the one with the test port you could use that to mount the second Lambda, perhaps with the spacer to help mask the CO from the sensor and fool the ECU into thinking it still has a functional cat.

Boooooom just drive faster to avoid the drone 🤣 I like your thinking.

If the decat straight pipe comes with a sensor hole then I'll go for that one. 

[SteviesV6]

4 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said:

That will definitely make it run like a bag of spanners!

Honda very cleverly tuned the length of the inlet tracts, throttle body, trunking, air filter and resonator to work with the VTEC and exactly the same on the exhaust side so any length/bore changes will cause rough running. Even on my Rover (C27, non-VTEC but the rest still applies) a small blow near the back box can make it sluggish, thirsty and rough so factor in a big hole on a bigger engine with VTEC and you have a recipe for rough running.

Yes, i forgot about the spacer to lift the second Lambda out of the main flow to fool it into thinking the cat is there and still doing its job, thanks Stu for reminding me! Don't have that problem on mine, just one Lambda per bank and no post-cat Lambda.

Ah does that mean I shouldn't remove the resonator from inside the passenger wing? 

[PTR200S]

On 3/11/2022 at 7:03 PM, RevvinKevin said:

Tell me about it. Been waiting 18months and still no sign of a Honda fest 😫

Yeah, big problem called cv19 seems to have buggered those up and now we have a fuel crisis to keep us occupied this year, just can't win at the moment 🙃

[Laird_Scooby]

11 hours ago, SteviesV6 said:

Ah does that mean I shouldn't remove the resonator from inside the passenger wing? 

That's exactly what it means. It's all to do with pulse tuning and Honda have made clever use of that to work with the rest of the engine and exhaust. Similar ideas apply to both inlet and exhaust, this deals mainly with the exhaust side but gives you an idea :

https://www.musclecardiy.com/performance/mastering-exhaust-system-math-build-high-performance-engines/#:~:text=The theory is to time the pulses so,atmospheric pressure at the end of the tube.

The resonator under the wing alters the tuned length of the inlet and varies its opening with engine speed etc (you should find a vacuum hose or two going to it as well) to give maximum efficiency across a variety of engine speeds. There's loads more on the wibbly-wobbly, i picked that one as it covers the basics plus some more of in-depth stuff but feel free to have a search online.

[SteviesV6]

Oooh maaan so will it affect running massively as in other cars I've removed them but didn't have the info you've given. 

Still stuck on how to upload pictures. 

Tomorrow night after work I'm starting a build thread as there's lots I want to do to her and people can pitch in ideas on the best way to do it and any potential hurdles I may come across. 

[Laird_Scooby]

Most other cars don't have the inlet and exhaust systems tuned the way Hondas do and just use a compromise across the board, even on other cars with variable valve timing.

Somewhere there is a quick guide to uploading pics, easiest if you use a thirrd party host such as postimages.org and use the "Direct Link" option. Copy and past the link where you want the image to be in your post. Job done!

[SteviesV6]

Aaaaah fair enough cheers mate.