My Honda Legend KA7 Project Chat

[hughezee]

13 minutes ago, Zamz said:

FRAM PH8212 oil filter is on cheap!!! £1 is that a glitch or something (rockauto)

Very unlikely a glitch either new old stock or a supplier selling off closing stock 🖐️

[PTR200S]

Buy, buy, buy !!!! Get a few for stock !!!

[hughezee]

2 minutes ago, PTR200S said:

Buy, buy, buy !!!! Get a few for stock !!!

What Pete said 😆

[Laird_Scooby]

Look out for the S&H from the USA though as several oil filters can be pretty bulky, even if not heavy! Might turn a bargain into a rip-off!

Of course, if you're buying other stuff from the same warehouse (A, B or C) then combined S&H will cut the individual costs.

[Zamz]

Im guessing by your reactions I should get 30? Lol would you recommend FRAN stu?

[Laird_Scooby]

1 minute ago, Zamz said:

Im guessing by your reactions I should get 30?

Check the S&H on that quantity! Also beware of the £15 threshold for paying Import Duty, aything below that on the invoice value and you don't have to pay, over £15 and you're liable for 20% Import VAT unless you use FedEx as they handle Customs for you.

However, another point to watch is currency fluctuations. I bought an FPR a couple of years back, the day i bought it the invoice value was something like £14.87, on the day HMRC checked the invoice value (in US$) it worked out to something like £15.83 because of the £ weakening against the dollar. Suddenly i became liable for 20% Import Duty/VAT which was £3.17 or thereabouts. However because i'd gone with a different carrier to FedEx i hadn't prepaid the Customs and the fee charged by Royal Mail just to collect the £3.17 was £8 all of which (£11.17) i had to pay online before Customs would release it!

Rock Auto frequently do what they call "Wholesaler Closeouts" where basically the wholesaler is selling old stock at a bargain price to make room on the shelves. That's why my FPR was only £15 ish compared to between £300-500 in the UK or about £130 normal price from Rock Auto.

If you really want to buy 30 Fram oil filters, i'd suggest buying 14 now, wait a few days and buy another 14 making sure they stay under £14 now so you have half a chance if the currency exchange rate alters or pay a little more now and use FedEx to transport them.

There's nothing wrong with Fram filters but having used a Honda filter i'd go for the Honda filter again.

[PTR200S]

yep , honda filters here too, mind you they have gone up in price a little, however, Cox motor parts dropped their price to about 12 quid and Holdcroft who have had good deal in the past are about same and both charging shipping...used to be free....ebay is your friend though for ordinary standard honda filters, £9.20 delivered.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-NEW-HONDA-OIL-FILTER-PETROL-MODELS-/184180879676

Or the pcx 004 big boy, 11.95 delivered. 

 

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-OIL-FILTER-HONDA-S2000-2-0L-AP1-AP2-1999-2009-FREE-SUMP-WASHER-/293757754984

[hughezee]

26 minutes ago, Zamz said:

Lol would you recommend FRAN stu?

FRAN does he or she have in experience servicing Hondas 😆 regards FRAM I'm on the fence with oil filters lately, apart from tried and tested stuff, but they're certainly aren't going to do harm if you change them regularly m8y, but ask yourself why they haven't sold out already?

[hughezee]

11 minutes ago, PTR200S said:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GENUINE-HONDA-OIL-FILTER-HONDA-S2000-2-0L-AP1-AP2-1999-2009-FREE-SUMP-WASHER-/293757754984

Ordered one of these recently (now fitted) free stickers made it an awesome deal 🤣

[PTR200S]

3 minutes ago, hughezee said:

Ordered one of these recently (now fitted) free stickers made it an awesome deal 🤣

Stickers, yeah!!  Must check my oil filter stock, as you know I usually have a few in stock....😉

[Zamz]

Hmm very interesting lol stu on the side fence that's very strange not like you to hold back lol I think I'll test them can't go worng with £1 filter  lol  (well I hope not) I'll get x10 to be safe use 2 every year 

[hughezee]

2 hours ago, Zamz said:

Hmm very interesting lol stu on the side fence that's very strange not like you to hold back lol

BOSCH cartridge filters are not great, I have seen too many leaks around the rolled edge, hope that makes up for it 😆

[Laird_Scooby]

2 hours ago, Zamz said:

Hmm very interesting lol stu on the side fence that's very strange not like you to hold back lol I think I'll test them can't go worng with £1 filter  lol  (well I hope not) I'll get x10 to be safe use 2 every year 

I think Stu was trying to be diplomatic following my comment about Fram filters being ok but given the choice i'd have Honda. I've fitted countless Fram filters over the years (fuel, air and oil, sometimes two or more of each to each engine) and also Cooper (i believe they have some sort of link but not 100% sure) and had a few leaks (one was 2000L of red diesel!) and a few collapsed filters.

Not a great percentage in the great scheme of things but any percentage when you depend on a filter to be right from the start until replacement is not good.

Given the quantity of Acuras/Hondas in the USA where Rock Auto are, like Stu pointed out, if they were any good they'd be sold out by now at that price!

Which reminds me - got dazzled by a Ridgeline earlier on dipped beam - why did Honda never make right hand drive (Left hand dip) lights for the Ridgeline??? 👹

[hughezee]

2 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said:

I think Stu was trying to be diplomatic following my comment about Fram filters being ok but given the choice i'd have Honda.

Not completely buddy as I have been using a few FRAM filters in the last 12 months as I refuse to use Bosch now 😒 the FRAM was very well made, but I can't get that version now anyway 🙄 so recently swapped mine for the 15400-PCX-004 filter and my engine went even quieter but that's the same with Honda's standard one size fits all petrol oil filter.🤪

[Laird_Scooby]

23 minutes ago, hughezee said:

the FRAM was very well made,

I have to confess all the Fram filters i've bought for my own use were quite well made, the problems i had were with bulk purchase filters for diseasel powered generators. I suspect the tolerances were a bit bigger and because they were sold for the fleet market, probably the quality was a bit down based on the fact they would be in for 400 hours and then changed. That might sound like a long time but on a gen-set running 24/7 it's only about 2 weeks and 2 days!

[Zamz]

https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=PP193LK1

 

Looking at this kit was just wondering does this come with a tensioner spring? stu you would know because If I remember right you mention you've installed one of these kits in the past?

 

And am I right in saying it's the blue Anti freeze I'll be needing?

[hughezee]

57 minutes ago, Zamz said:

And am I right in saying it's the blue Anti freeze I'll be needing?

The water pump in the PP193LK1 kit recommends to use genuine Honda Coolant and despite not being a fan on Honda Type 2 coolant, I wouldn't hesitate on this occasion.

On 4/18/2015 at 12:49 AM, hughezee said:

However' when replacing radiators and water pumps, some manufacturers insist on genuine coolant for warranty purposes, please adhere to this advice.

 

1 hour ago, Zamz said:

https://www.rockauto.com/en/partsearch/?partnum=PP193LK1

 

Looking at this kit was just wondering does this come with a tensioner spring? stu you would know because If I remember right you mention you've installed one of these kits in the past?

Good question the kit doesn't come with a replacement spring 14516-PY3-000 and is not available from Honda either, there are some aftermarket sources but nothing comes close to the original part which in many cases has outlived its aftermarket equivalents.

[Laird_Scooby]

35 minutes ago, Zamz said:

Looking at this kit was just wondering does this come with a tensioner spring?

It should do because without it the tensioner isn't much use, however it's neither listed or shown so maybe an email to RA would answer the question. Although the spring isn't used after the initial tensioning (the tensioner is locked off) because it is held under tension it stretches with time and weakens. This can lead to the timing belt jumping if the spring is re-used.

A useful tip when fitting the spring is to get a large, wide cable tie (but not so wide it won't fit inside the hook on the spring) and once the "fixed" end is on the spring post that screws into the water pump, make the cable tie into a loop so the spring can be "grabbed" and pulled over to hook onto the tensioner. It's amazing how much easier this makes the job!

35 minutes ago, Zamz said:

am I right in saying it's the blue Anti freeze I'll be needing?

Yes, Ethylene Glycol, get the concentrated stuff. Remove the bottom hose from the rad to drain the majority of the old stuff then refit it.

Fill with plain water and add a cooling system flushing agent - Comma X-Stream Flush or similar is good. The instructions usually say warm up the engine and run it for 20 minutes. I prefer to go for a half hour drive. In really bad cases i then leave it overnight to cool.

If it's only the 20-30 minute run up to temperature, i let it cool for a couple of hours. Remove the thermostat housing and the 'stat, refit the housing.

Disconnect the top hose from the radiator and using your garden hose, insert it into the top hose and turn the tap on. Ensure the heater temperature is set to hot although if you have Climate Control, the heater valve defaults to hot with no vacuum (engine off) so no need to check.

After a short time the coolant/water/fluch mixture with any loosened sediment will start flowing out of the rad top hose stub. Leave it running until it runs clear then about 20-30 minutes more.

Turn the hose off. Remove the bottom hose to drain the majority of the water out and then refit. Add ~5L (half the total cooling system capcity) of concentrated EG antifreeze. Remove the 'stat housing and either fit a new 'stat and seal or refit the old one. I fit a new 'stat every other antifreeze change. Normally the antifreeze is changed every 2 years so it has a new 'stat every 4 years.

Silicone grease is good to help the seal slip round the 'stat and also into the hole. Top up with water and refit the expansion tank cap/radiator cap. Start the engine and run up to temperature. Switch off and leave to cool overnight, top up the following morning if needed with water - you've already added enough antifreeze for 50% concentration so water is fine.

If you can park facing uphill when leaving the system to cool overnight before checking/topping up, so much the better as it will help bleed any air out.

[Laird_Scooby]

2 minutes ago, hughezee said:

a replacement spring 14516-PY3-000

Is it the same spring as used on the C27 Stu? If so, the Rover part number is XHM463 but i think i had the last available of those! It's another search term in the hunt though and i'm amazed the spring isn't included in the kit! Unbelievable! It's good "get out of jail free card" on the warranty though, they can blame the timing belt failure on not fitting a new spring!

Cynical old git? You bet i am!

[hughezee]

42 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said:

Is it the same spring as used on the C27 Stu?

No, unfortunately mate C27's 14516-PH7-000 or XHM463 spring is smaller than the 14516-PY3-000 but I will double check...☹️

[Laird_Scooby]

Oh bo..............theration!

[Zamz]

On 10/26/2020 at 6:05 PM, hughezee said:

The water pump in the PP193LK1 kit recommends to use genuine Honda Coolant and despite not being a fan on Honda Type 2 coolant, I wouldn't hesitate on this occasion.

 

Good question the kit doesn't come with a replacement spring 14516-PY3-000 and is not available from Honda either, there are some aftermarket sources but nothing comes close to the original part which in many cases has outlived its aftermarket equivalents.

I blame you for making me into a nerd lol keep thinking then over thinking 😊 yeah was thinking something was missing from the kit. And spoken to Honda your right they don't have the spring.. what would you suggest as the best alternative? 

[Zamz]

 

3 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said:

It should do because without it the tensioner isn't much use, however it's neither listed or shown so maybe an email to RA would answer the question. Although the spring isn't used after the initial tensioning (the tensioner is locked off) because it is held under tension it stretches with time and weakens. This can lead to the timing belt jumping if the spring is re-used.

A useful tip when fitting the spring is to get a large, wide cable tie (but not so wide it won't fit inside the hook on the spring) and once the "fixed" end is on the spring post that screws into the water pump, make the cable tie into a loop so the spring can be "grabbed" and pulled over to hook onto the tensioner. It's amazing how much easier this makes the job!

Yes, Ethylene Glycol, get the concentrated stuff. Remove the bottom hose from the rad to drain the majority of the old stuff then refit it.

Fill with plain water and add a cooling system flushing agent - Comma X-Stream Flush or similar is good. The instructions usually say warm up the engine and run it for 20 minutes. I prefer to go for a half hour drive. In really bad cases i then leave it overnight to cool.

If it's only the 20-30 minute run up to temperature, i let it cool for a couple of hours. Remove the thermostat housing and the 'stat, refit the housing.

Disconnect the top hose from the radiator and using your garden hose, insert it into the top hose and turn the tap on. Ensure the heater temperature is set to hot although if you have Climate Control, the heater valve defaults to hot with no vacuum (engine off) so no need to check.

After a short time the coolant/water/fluch mixture with any loosened sediment will start flowing out of the rad top hose stub. Leave it running until it runs clear then about 20-30 minutes more.

Turn the hose off. Remove the bottom hose to drain the majority of the water out and then refit. Add ~5L (half the total cooling system capcity) of concentrated EG antifreeze. Remove the 'stat housing and either fit a new 'stat and seal or refit the old one. I fit a new 'stat every other antifreeze change. Normally the antifreeze is changed every 2 years so it has a new 'stat every 4 years.

Silicone grease is good to help the seal slip round the 'stat and also into the hole. Top up with water and refit the expansion tank cap/radiator cap. Start the engine and run up to temperature. Switch off and leave to cool overnight, top up the following morning if needed with water - you've already added enough antifreeze for 50% concentration so water is fine.

If you can park facing uphill when leaving the system to cool overnight before checking/topping up, so much the better as it will help bleed any air out.

Thanks really appreciate the detail description, much respect 💪 

And yes definitely a new thermostat to be installed. Half an hour drive in a V6 thirsty b*** hmm your hurting my pocket now lol Remember going back i did a rad flush for my Peugeot 306 D turbo made a vast improvement 😊

[Zamz]

Ordered the CONTITECH PP193LK1 Pro Series Plus kit, it doesn't include the Timing belthe tensioner spring and also the kit came with the missing part elusive tensioner spring. (The bolt looking thing on the kit image) 

CONTITECH PP193LK1 Timing Belt, Water Pump & Component Kit | RockAuto https://www.rockauto.com/en/parts/contitech,PP193LK1,timing+belt%2C+water+pump+&+component+kit,16088

Would anyone know where else I could look for this component?

 

Just found this part was wondering if this is the correct Spring for the tensioner? 

Honda Spring Comp., Timing Belt - 14516-PY3-000 https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/honda/spgcomptb-adj-14516py3000/

[PTR200S]

Just checked Amayama , "out of production"

parts diagram here

but Lings are showing it in stock too.

 

https://www.lingshondaparts.com/part-search?partnumber=14516-PY3-000

 

 

Acura parts warehouse is also "no longer available for purchase" and shows it for these models.

USA versions obviously.

AcuraLegend19952 Door L, 2 Door LS, 4 Door GS, 4 Door L, 4 Door L (MOQUETTE), 4 Door L SPL (SPECIAL ED.), 4 Door LSKA 4AT, KA 5MT, KA 6MT, KL 4AT, KL 5MT, KL 6MT

AcuraLegend19942 Door L, 2 Door LS, 4 Door GS, 4 Door L, 4 Door L (MOQUETTE), 4 Door LSKA 4AT, KA 5MT, KA 6MT, KL 4AT, KL 5MT, KL 6MT

AcuraLegend19932 Door L, 2 Door LS, 4 Door L, 4 Door L (MOQUETTE), 4 Door LS, 4 Door STDKA 4AT, KA 5MT, KA 6MT, KL 4AT, KL 5MT, KL 6MT

AcuraLegend19922 Door L, 2 Door L* (MOQUETTE), 2 Door LS, 4 Door L, 4 Door L (MOQUETTE), 4 Door LS, 4 Door STDKA 4AT, KA 5MT, KL 4AT, KL 5MT

AcuraLegend19912 Door L, 2 Door L* (MOQUETTE), 2 Door LS, 4 Door L, 4 Door L (MOQUETTE), 4 Door LS, 4 Door STDKA 4AT, KA 5MT, KL 4AT, KL 5MT

AcuraTL19984 Door BAS3.2KA 4AT

AcuraTL19974 Door BAS3.2, 4 Door PRE3.2KA 4AT

AcuraTL19964 Door BAS3.2, 4 Door PRE3.2KA 4AT