Lumpy Posted March 18, 2019 Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 23 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said: It's 14 x10mm Paul. I've got them in all 4 of my sunroof drains now and a dry car once again! Lift the rear seat cushion up - if it's soaking under there then it's almost certainly your rear sunroof drains. These are the connectors you'll need : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-14mm-10mm-Plastic-Barbed-Reducer-Adapter-Hose-Connector-Fuel-Pipe-Joiner/282710068065 Got some connectors on order ta. Front left footwell now feels damper than rear. Small oil filled heater and dehumidifier in there now. Is the rear drain down the side of the B pillar? I think I have it sussed how to check and do the front ones, how successful with sausage fingers is another thing. I think I will pour water down each to check if they are blocked first. Cheers as ever for all the advice, it's brill. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 18, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 Trouble is, if the valves (the rubber elbows that connect to the down hoses and then into the inner wing and empty into the wheelarch) are blocked and the join is leaking, it will simply pour straight into the interior. For the rears, remove the boot trim round the wheelarches inside the boot and you should find them. This should give you a bit of a pointer : See the bit of grey foam, follow it to the bottom, to the left is a staple shaped retaining clip that can be bent to different shapes to hold cables etc. On the top end of that is the valve and you can see the semi-rigid sunroof down hose attached to it. The semi-rigid shrinks both in length and diameter, hence popping out of the valve and gluing the two back together alone doesn't fix it permanently. Sorry the pic isn't the best quality for this article, it was taken more for the sound proofing i added. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted March 18, 2019 Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 32 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: Trouble is, if the valves (the rubber elbows that connect to the down hoses and then into the inner wing and empty into the wheelarch) are blocked and the join is leaking, it will simply pour straight into the interior. So the ones in the book also fill the car? If the boot is dry does it mean the rears are ok? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 18, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 4 minutes ago, Lumpy said: So the ones in the book also fill the car? Yes, they can do. 4 minutes ago, Lumpy said: If the boot is dry does it mean the rears are ok? No. The answer to both is pretty much the same, as you brake, any "collected" water runs forward and usually settles under the rear seat. Eventually by capillary action ni the carpet and also by braking, the water will then run forward into the rear footwells. Often this leaves the boot dry, or as good as and the ventilation system in the car gets rid of the rest. Notice the vents in my pic above, just behind the grey foam at a low level. I'm fairly sure the Accord Coupe has vents in a similar position and the air comes from the cabin, through the vents in the parcel shelf and is drawn out through those while driving. There are so many sneaky ways the water gets in the cabin it's untrue, i'm still not sure i've found all of them over the years but for now, my boot is dry thankfully! A damp boot can also cause the rear screen to continually mist up. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted March 18, 2019 Administrators Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 The rear drain(s) exit circled in red for reference 😉 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted March 18, 2019 Administrators Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 Rear drains Internal view, located on both sides behind the grey trim side panels in the boot... 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 18, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 Almost identical placement to the Legend/Rover then! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted March 18, 2019 Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 1 hour ago, Laird_Scooby said: Yes, they can do. No. The answer to both is pretty much the same, as you brake, any "collected" water runs forward and usually settles under the rear seat. Eventually by capillary action ni the carpet and also by braking, the water will then run forward into the rear footwells Mine became a swimming pool while parked up. Nipper got in and it made his feet wet. I'll be checking them all once the joiners arrive. Good thing they are cheap, i was tempted to turn them from stainless 🙂 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 18, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 At the price, they're pretty much a disposable item but as i said before, you need to grind/turn most of the ribs off the thin end (just leave a little of each rib to help them key in) then use Araldite to secure them in the semi-rigid pipes. Stainless probably wouldn't work well as it would drag the pipes /valves out of shape due to the weight. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted March 19, 2019 Report Share Posted March 19, 2019 Dehumidifier in car but not warm enough to do much, had a heater in there all last night but apart from making sure there was no condensation on the outside of the glass this did diddly squat. Is there a windscreen scuttle drain on these cars, I remember a Senator used to give issues if this blocked. I'm eager to get out there and sort the sunroof drains but it will need to wait until the weekend. On the plus side, 800 miles in 3 days, superb. Stable, quietish, nippy enough, definitely a convert to this car. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 On 3/17/2019 at 9:40 PM, Laird_Scooby said: It's 14 x10mm Paul. I've got them in all 4 of my sunroof drains now and a dry car once again! Lift the rear seat cushion up - if it's soaking under there then it's almost certainly your rear sunroof drains. These are the connectors you'll need : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-14mm-10mm-Plastic-Barbed-Reducer-Adapter-Hose-Connector-Fuel-Pipe-Joiner/282710068065 On the thin end, you'll need to sand/grind most of the ribs off (just leave a little of each one) and then use Araldite or similar to glue them in the end of the narrow down hose from the sunroof. The other end (14mm) fits nice and tight in the "valve" as Honda call it - also worth checking the exit of said valve to make sure it's not blocked. Got the connectors today. Spun the 14mn down on the lathe to remove most of the bumps. Faced of 8mm from the tapered end and put a smaller 30 deg chamfer on them. I though they would fit better 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 22, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 4 minutes ago, Lumpy said: On the thin end, you'll need to sand/grind most of the ribs off 4 minutes ago, Lumpy said: Got the connectors today. Spun the 14mn down on the lathe to remove most of the bumps Oh dear. 5 minutes ago, Lumpy said: Faced of 8mm from the tapered end and put a smaller 30 deg chamfer on them. I though they would fit better Oh dear, oh dear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 10 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: Oh dear. Oh dear, oh dear. Oh bollix. Hangs head in shame. Ffs. I'll do the thin end too. Only took half of them off and er. Note to self. Don't rely on memory 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 Maybe i will make some nylatron or stainless ones in the end 😁 they'll be fine 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 22, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 I had hoped it was a typo..................... you might get away with the 14mm end if you use Araldite on that too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 22, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 1 minute ago, Lumpy said: Maybe i will make some nylatron or stainless ones in the end 😁 they'll be fine Nylatron yes, stainless, definitely not! They'll be too heavy and pull the pipework down causing kinks then the headlining will fill up with water! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 Just now, Laird_Scooby said: I had hoped it was a typo..................... you might get away with the 14mm end if you use Araldite on that too. Was going to use black tack or similar. I'll do the other end now and check. Or just bung the hole in the front left of the roof😉 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 2 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: Nylatron yes, stainless, definitely not! They'll be too heavy and pull the pipework down causing kinks then the headlining will fill up with water! They will not you know. The wall thickness can be much thinner so the mass may be less. If too heavy I can drill holes in them😀 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 5 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: I had hoped it was a typo..................... you might get away with the 14mm end if you use Araldite on that too. Note to self. Take own advice and read things properly. Only took half the ribs off by diameter thankfully, maybe. What a donut. Hopefully the shorter lead in will pay dividends. Forgot to bring the forceps home too 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 22, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 4 minutes ago, Lumpy said: They will not you know. The wall thickness can be much thinner so the mass may be less. A friend of mine used some thin-wall 10mm copper tubing and swaged/flared the end out to 14mm - way too heavy and if memory serves, copper is a lower RD than stainless so will be lighter. Nylatron, while heavy for plastic is still a lower RD so you should get awayw tih it if you can't rescue the joiner. 4 minutes ago, Lumpy said: Forgot to bring the forceps home too Not sure i dare ask! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 2 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: A friend of mine used some thin-wall 10mm copper tubing and swaged/flared the end out to 14mm - way too heavy and if memory serves, copper is a lower RD than stainless so will be lighter. Nylatron, while heavy for plastic is still a lower RD so you should get awayw tih it if you can't rescue the joiner. Not sure i dare ask! It's hardly fair to use facts to argue with. Forceps just long handled pliers. Nothing medical 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 22, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 7 minutes ago, Lumpy said: Forceps just long handled pliers. Nothing medical That's a relief! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumpy Posted March 22, 2019 Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 26 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: That's a relief! Although, looking at the pix. A gynaecologist may be able to do the work easier 37 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 22, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted March 22, 2019 13 minutes ago, Lumpy said: looking at the pix. A gynaecologist may be able to do the work easier Nah, they'd want to do it through the tailpipes so you'd have a hole in each rear silencer to weld up after! 😛 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PerciUrwin Posted March 3 Report Share Posted March 3 Hi Gents, I have a water leak to the rear of my 3.0 V6 Coupe. Rear Interior footwells are bone dry but there is a definite leak getting into the near side boot. Specifically water is finding its way into the underneath of the near side plastic accessory tray , and then running down over the spare wheel well and settling underneath the space-saver wheel in the bottom of the its spare wheel well. Can anyone suggest the cause form the variable possibilities and the 'how to' guide in order to solve it ? Awaiting your help ! 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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