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New Accord V6 newbie


kag8

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:D that was fun!

30 miles, unfortunately lots of cars on the road but still was good fun.

Shifting feels smooth, can't tell really when shifting gears, ok maybe a bit when dropping down a gear. Although when I was coming out of a parking spot, i.e. reverse then switch to D4 to go forwards I do feel a jerk. Most of the automatics i've driven do that so not sure what's an acceptable jerk for the accord. Also, the D4 light isn't turning on (nor flashing) which I hope is just the bulb blown rather than an indication of transmission issues. I will be doing a part fluid change over the coming months though as a precaution.

Brakes - sometimes squeel ever so slighty and grind when coming to a stop. Can also feel a judder in steering when slowing down from 60+ mph.

Steering - does feel heavier than my 7th gen but I checked the fluid and it's not so dirty black. Might also add this to my to do list but further down priority as read that some members aren't sure if it does improve things or it's a placebo lol. More importantly my wheel alignment is off, slightly pulls to the left. When I change my rims and tyres I'll of course get them balanced and get the brakes sorted in one go too.

Cruise control works, so that's good.

What else? Um yes, I looked closely at my remote key fob and realised it wasn't a genuine one. Cracked it open, grabbed a new battery and fumbling with the green motherboard thingie managed to lock, unlock and open the boot! So pleased with that. Have ordered another fob holder which closer resembles the stock one. That should sort it out.

A couple of pics since the sun was out. 1 was taken at a garage I went to ask about the pre-muffler delete - unfortunately welder wasn't around :( the other is of the paint peel on the left of the rear bumper and the panel above it, so have ordered the paint to do a touch up. Shall I go for the aerosol spray can? I am really bad with those tiny paint brushes that come with touch up paint kits but never done body paint with spray can either. I guess it's just a case of prepping the area well, mask off the rest and spray a few coats?

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21 minutes ago, kag8 said:

Also, the D4 light isn't turning on (nor flashing) which I hope is just the bulb blown rather than an indication of transmission issues.

This could be a problem or not as the case may be. If you go from reverse to D3 is there as much of a jerk? If it's appreciably less it could be the switch by the gear lever, if not it's probably the bulb.

30 minutes ago, kag8 said:

Can also feel a judder in steering when slowing down from 60+ mph

Could be worn discs and pads or possibly wheel balance, maybe a warped disc.

32 minutes ago, kag8 said:

More importantly my wheel alignment is off, slightly pulls to the left

When? Does it do it under acceleration, under braking, during normal driving or when? Also have you checked the tyre pressures? The brake problem may also be related if a caliper is sticking.

34 minutes ago, kag8 said:

I guess it's just a case of prepping the area well, mask off the rest and spray a few coats?

Don't forget it's two-pack so needs lacquer over the top ;):D

Nice looking car too! :D:D:D

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3 hours ago, kag8 said:

What else? Um yes, I looked closely at my remote key fob and realised it wasn't a genuine one. Cracked it open, grabbed a new battery and fumbling with the green motherboard thingie managed to lock, unlock and open the boot! So pleased with that. Have ordered another fob holder which closer resembles the stock one. That should sort it out.

Just in case you want a back up remote fob....this guy is very good.

 

http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/FITS-HONDA-REMOTE-FOB-3-BUTTON-G8D-453H-A-INSTRUCTIONS-BRISTOL-/152469352600?nav=SEARCH

 

The post below is how to reprogram a fob:

 

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On 3/16/2017 at 7:42 PM, AhsyV6 said:

Thanks mate.

just a quick browse finds you the wheels below. The first lot off a 4 foot accord in need of some tlc and new tires soon. After a Refurb costing £220ish and you selling yours for about £100 you could have a have a new set of wheels for £320ish. There's a post on here with tyres from Davanti that's got very good reviews so far. 

The wheels at the bottom are singles but you could buy and collect  them over a period of time and then do the Refurb when you have a complete set and you're ready to. 

[LINKS IN ORIGINAL POST]

Sorry I completely missed your post in the middle of all the Mercedes talk lol

Thanks for the links, have been looking at wheels like a madman. Do you really reckon my stock alloys could sell for £100? That would really go a long way and make me maybe ake the step up to 17/18 inchers!

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7 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said:

This could be a problem or not as the case may be. If you go from reverse to D3 is there as much of a jerk? If it's appreciably less it could be the switch by the gear lever, if not it's probably the bulb.

Could be worn discs and pads or possibly wheel balance, maybe a warped disc.

When? Does it do it under acceleration, under braking, during normal driving or when? Also have you checked the tyre pressures? The brake problem may also be related if a caliper is sticking.

Don't forget it's two-pack so needs lacquer over the top ;):D

Nice looking car too! :D:D:D

I'm not sure how to split the quote to respond separately but here goes:

1. Shifting from R to D3 didn't feel that much of a jerk, but then when I shifted back to R and then D4 I didn't feel anything either. I guess it's more random and the more I drive the car and shift gears the better I'll be able to gauge.

2. I hope it's just the pads that need replacing, the 7th gen too had issues with discs warping, which if were the case would eat into my budget for making the car look cool. Haha you can see where my prioirties lie :P

3. I noticed the car pulling to the left when I was on the M1 just leading up to my exit, so was decelerating but not breaking. Once I realised,  now i'm constantly aware of it. Hopefully just a wheel balancing issue although due to the random brake squeels it seems as a minimum I'll have to get the pads changed. Will get them checked out asap.

4. Yup, going to watch and read lots of tutorials this time. My previous accord 7th gen had too many scratches that I just gave up. This one though I must follow through and fix.

Oh yes, I got rid of the TypeS badge on the boot using dental floss (so yes some progress on my to do list). Was very easy! It did leave a massive gunk of glue but to me that looks better than having a misleading badge! Will grab some goo remover liquid and wipe it off :)

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If you want to quote separately like i did, highlight what you want to quote with the mouse then the forum software asks "Quote this?" - click where it says "Quote this?" and it inserts the highlighted text as a quote in your reply.

1. That sounds like good news, assuming the D3 light lit up on the dash?

2. Probably be easiest to get your new wheels/tyres and see if the problem disappears - if it is a wheel balance problem causing it.

3. Does it go straight without pulling when you accelerate? If so it's probably the rear wheel alignment. Wheel balance will not cause pulling or any other alignment problems, just vibration. Could also be worn suspension bushes and/or ball joints. Have a look at my review of the Trackace Laser Tracking gauge for a bit more info on tracking :

Could be it has cheap pads fitted that are producing a lot of dust which can cause squeal on the brakes.

4. I'm sure Stu has done at least one paint touch up "how to", there are also loads on YouTube. Preparation is the thing, make sure there's no dust around, no wind or anything else that can cause unwanted intruders in the paint! Take your time with the paint and i'm sure you'll be fine. Also once you've put the paint on, leave it a few days to cure before applying the lacquer and flat down with very fine wet'n'dry in between, preferably used with soapy water to keep it clean.

Good news on the Type S badge removal! ;):D

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1 hour ago, kag8 said:

Thanks for the links, have been looking at wheels like a madman. Do you really reckon my stock alloys could sell for £100? That would really go a long way and make me maybe ake the step up to 17/18 inchers!

If you have some decent tread remaining and the tires are in good condition I personally feel it's the tires someone would want more than the wheels. 

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On ‎19‎/‎03‎/‎2017 at 11:28 PM, Laird_Scooby said:

1. That sounds like good news, assuming the D3 light lit up on the dash?

Yes, all other gear lights turn on. I guess it's just because D4 is mostly in use it blew. Looking to order Valvoline ATF next time there is a good discount on eurocarparts.

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From the sound of things i'd say you're probably right. If you don't want to wait for ECP to have a promo on Valvoline, try this instead :

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carlube-ATF-U-ATF-U-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-Fluid-4-55L-FULLY-SYNTETHIC-/121347314407?hash=item1c40dd12e7:g:fmUAAMXQs6FRMgUi

It's also a good fluid, in some respects it can actually be better than the Valvoline but that can depend on the box to a degree. By all means wait for the Valvoline if you really want it, if not the ATF-U is available at that price more or less every day on fleabay. ;):D

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12 minutes ago, kag8 said:

Thats an amazing price! Ordered. Thanks very much.

 

This should do well for 2 part changes.

Good call on getting you gearbox fluid replaced, FYI you will need 2.4L per part change so might be a bit short with 4.55L depending the angle of the car when draining it. ;) So I would suggest getting an extra 1L or an additive of some sort to help revive internal seals ect as that's the only negative in my experience with ATF-U it doesn't contain many additives, but it's great at keeping a healthy box maintained. However, transmissions long overdue a fluid change will very likely see improvements within 50 miles or less using the Valvoline, which also has better thermal stability than the old Honda ATF-Z1 and current DW1 fluid of which I wouldn't recommend anyway. 

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1 hour ago, kag8 said:

Thats an amazing price! Ordered. Thanks very much.

 

This should do well for 2 part changes.

Yes, it is what I have used aswell: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/122265668958?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

And the 1litre: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/142209609536?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I've done 3 part changes now as the previous owner used the Honda DW1 ATF. Not good for our older boxes. :)

There is a Fill Hole about 20cm rear of the Dipstick on the Gearbox.

Here: q5PZtH8.jpg?1

LMwZMte.jpg

I couldn't loosen mine so I reverted to a bit of a heath-robinson affair using the Dipstick aperture...lol. :)

ZhoLrS6.jpg

The Drain Plug is more or less in the same position but on the underside of the Gearbox. It's a 3/8th Female Socket.

 

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1 hour ago, hughezee said:

So I would suggest getting an extra 1L or an additive of some sort to help revive internal seals ect as that's the only negative in my experience with ATF-U it doesn't contain many additives, but it's great at keeping a healthy box maintained.

I wouldn't call my transmission 'healthy' though...just getting by I would say, so what additive is recommended?

 

46 minutes ago, Mangoman said:

I couldn't loosen mine so I reverted to a bit of a heath-robinson affair using the Dipstick aperture...lol. :)

When I did an ATF change on my 7th gen, the mechanic at my local garage just sucked out the existing fluid using a massive suction thingie straight from the dipstick and then proceeded to pour new ATF through the dipstick via a funnel. I'll ask him this time to give it a shot undoing the bolt on the bottom of the transmission as would prefer for any metallic bits to be cleaned off the magnetic plug.

So, strictly, can we only fill ATF on the v6 using the fill hole? Or can he pour it back in using a funnel over the dipstick? Minor, just curious.

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45 minutes ago, kag8 said:

I wouldn't call my transmission 'healthy' though...just getting by I would say, so what additive is recommended?

 

When I did an ATF change on my 7th gen, the mechanic at my local garage just sucked out the existing fluid using a massive suction thingie straight from the dipstick and then proceeded to pour new ATF through the dipstick via a funnel. I'll ask him this time to give it a shot undoing the bolt on the bottom of the transmission as would prefer for any metallic bits to be cleaned off the magnetic plug.

So, strictly, can we only fill ATF on the v6 using the fill hole? Or can he pour it back in using a funnel over the dipstick? Minor, just curious.

Yes, personally if at all possible it is better to drain the Gearbox Sump and as you say, clean the Drain Plug as it can get grubby, as mine was:

i6yyK8M.jpg

e4nVGHt.jpg

Ideally it is better to use the Fill Hole. I just didn't have an Extension long enough. Also I have only 3/8th Drives and it would be better to use a 1/2 Drive because the Extension twists somewhat at the length.

No, I filled mine through the Dipstick Aperture as shown in the above photo and here again.

TXrNtja.jpg

It's just easier to use the Fill Hole I reckon. :)

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All always a good idea to use the drain bolt and the fill bolt as second gear is visible from the fill hole and bathing it in fresh fluid will avoid premature starvation until the fresh fluid moves around as second and third gear can be the achilles heel on these trannies, but filling from the dipstick is still perfectly fine just remember to shuttle through the gears with engine running while stationary. Regards an additive it was only a suggestion to make up the fluid needed, but maybe not essential at this stage, so I would get the first fluid change done and report back on the shifts after 200 miles or so ;)

 

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52 minutes ago, Mangoman said:

Yes, personally if at all possible it is better to drain the Gearbox Sump and as you say, clean the Drain Plug as it can get grubby, as mine was:

i6yyK8M.jpg

e4nVGHt.jpg

Ideally it is better to use the Fill Hole. I just didn't have an Extension long enough. Also I have only 3/8th Drives and it would be better to use a 1/2 Drive because the Extension twists somewhat at the length.

No, I filled mine through the Dipstick Aperture as shown in the above photo and here again.

TXrNtja.jpg

It's just easier to use the Fill Hole I reckon. :)

Is that the transmission oil in the cup?:rolleyes::lol:

Obviously you were working hard at the time !!:D

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On 21/03/2017 at 7:14 PM, kag8 said:

Thanks stu. I think ill insist he uses the correct fill hole this time.

@Laird_Scooby do you have pics of how your led sidelights look? When the main headlights arent on. Any led bulb suggestion?

I got these for my sidelights and for the interior lights too... might be a tad blue in the sidelights, got a pic somewhere, will post it here: http://honda6.ipbhost.com/index.php?/topic/4793-1998-2002-accord-coupe-led-side-lights/

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121781352596?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&var=420773069324&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

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1 minute ago, PTR200S said:

Just got a daylight vid on this link?  Does the moby scoot have LED too :lol:

Not done a night vid of the front yet (or pics) and until Sony sort out the driver software for my phone i can't upload any more pics/vids unless i go back to an older phone.

No LEDs on the granny go-kart as yet, maybe this year lol! ;):D

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