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Accord Coupe Instrument Cluster Bulbs


Mazda Man

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  • 5 weeks later...
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I am glad to report it's Mission Accomplished regarding the cluster/instrument bulbs.  If you remember, I tried twice to remove the cluster (I've done it before when I had the 2.0ES coupe) but due to the left hand connector snagging on the wiring loom (there are apparently more wires in the loom for the V6), I decided to 'Abort Mission', instead of causing damage by stressing any of the wires by forcing it out.  Popped to Stu's last night and yep, you guessed it, the cluster was removed within 30 seconds.  Apparently, you have to carefully lift the loom slightly (which is covered in grey foam) with a long screwdriver then the cluster becomes free.  Stu whipped out the multi-meter and tested all the bulbs and yes, there were three blown (two originally, I discovered the odometer bulb had also blown the other night).  I already had the bulbs for the fuel/temp gauge and Stu found a spare odometer bulb in his secret 'bulb pot'.

 

In any event, I am confident now that I can do this myself in the future now I have been shown the 'lift loom' trick.  Thanks again to Stu. ;)

 

CLUSTER REMOVED

 

68A469E0-AA0E-4A0D-89FA-61F54359D60B_zps

 

 

REAR OF CLUSTER

 

2BB53046-9327-4E7F-A3F1-5CB3E055F11E_zps

 

ANOTHER SHOT

 

2163C7D2-1A2D-4418-853B-87C5E4086B8B_zps

 

CLOSE UP

 

B0EF4981-022D-48C7-9122-7B1FB3BABC2F_zps

 

THE OFFENDING BLOWN BULBS

 

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VOILA - SHOT OF THE ILLUMINATED CLUSTER

 

142C38E9-FE1C-47C6-9DFE-7724528192FC_zps

 

AND THE CENTRE CONSOLE

 

BDF54C79-30B7-4977-8C3C-AFC1B65A5F26_zps

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Not only is the Purple One looing great and is lovely and shiny, he also drives great, stops great, his fluids (ATF, oil, coolant, PS, brake) are all healthy and bang on, all the cluster bulbs are now working and he still turns heads!  B)

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  • 3 months later...

Not only is the Purple One looing great and is lovely and shiny, he also drives great, stops great, his fluids (ATF, oil, coolant, PS, brake) are all healthy and bang on, all the cluster bulbs are now working and he still turns heads!  B)

Did you change the bulbs in the heater / AC controls, or are they still original?  I never got round to replacing mine and with the dark evenings it's now a bit of a pain. 

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I presume they're still original.  They're easy to change though, you'll need to remove the centre dash first by removing the two screws by the ash tray.  There's a thread on her on how to remove etc.

I agree, these dark nights sure make you more aware of blown bulbs!!

 

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Holy Darkness Geoff-Man! You're right about these dark nights! :lol:

 

Joking aside Geoff, it's where you start wondering why something isn't lit up and why you've not spotted it before now. For example, the tell-tale warning light in the dash for the sidelights being on. Had my coupé over 2 years now and knew something was missing but couldn't put my finger on it, depite driving the Sterling which of course has the same dash and all bulbs working. It stuck out like a sore thumb the other night when i had to put the lights on and i realised what i had been missing for 2+ years! :wub:

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Ha ha brilliant.  That's why I asked if the window switches on the drivers and passenger door lit up.  I was sat there at the traffic lights one night driving home (as you do) and wondered why they weren't lit up, as every other car I've had they have been lit?  I also noticed that the headlamp level adjuster button also doesn't light up.  Stu has since broken a power window unit down from the donor coupe and established that in cars of our vintage (1998) they don't light up, although in newer coupes they do.  Weird.  :huh:  I know Richard also queried this.

All of my interior bulbs, instrument bulbs etc light up and have the correct bulbs fitted...except for the window switches and headlight level adjuster.  :mellow:

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the tell-tale warning light in the dash for the sidelights being on. Had my coupé over 2 years now and knew something was missing but couldn't put my finger on it

Erm..... I've had my CG4 for 10 years (beat that!) and I don't remember seeing this light on the dash.  I rely on the other tell-tail signs that the lights are on:

  • Ding dong sound when opening the door (when the engine is off)
  • All the dash lights are illuminated
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I presume they're still original.  They're easy to change though, you'll need to remove the centre dash first by removing the two screws by the ash tray.  There's a thread on her on how to remove etc

 Yes, easy enough to remove.  I've already removed all the old bulbs (a few months ago) but not yet got around to buying replacements.  In fact, I've forgotten the spec for them - must look for that other thread which shows the details. 

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Erm..... I've had my CG4 for 10 years (beat that!) and I don't remember seeing this light on the dash.  I rely on the other tell-tail signs that the lights are on:

  • Ding dong sound when opening the door (when the engine is off)
  • All the dash lights are illuminated

I'm getting close with my Sterling - it will be 8 years come 29th February next year - longest i've ever owned a car in fact!

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  • 2 weeks later...

I need some new bulbs for  a few places in the dash:

1) Behind the AC controls in the centre console:  I think thatthere are 2 or 3 different bulb sizes here.  I'm sure that somebody posted up a diagram of that panel, showing the bulb sizes, but now I can't find it.  Can anybody remember this?

2) Switch illumination for cruise control and rear fog light.  I think these two are the same, but what rating?

I'm planning to buy a load of cheap ebay bulbs, so if anybody else is in need, let me know. 

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  • 3 months later...
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Easiest way is fill a petrol can with a gallon and run it until it runs out or the low fuel light comes on. If the light doesn't come on at all before you run out, at least you have a gallon in the can to get you to the nearest filling station.

Some systems are set up so that once the fuel gauge has dropped below a certain level (resistance value as read by the instrument pack) the light comes on after a preset delay to avoid false alarms when driving downhill for example. Others have a low level switch which again, usually has some sort of time delay built in to avoid false alarms. I don't know how it's set up on the Accord so can't be more specific i'm afraid. I know on my Rovers (Legends in disguise) it works on the first system so would hazard a guess the Accord is probably the same. If memory serves correctly the minimum resistance of the sender on mine is 10 ohms and the maximum is 270 corresponding to a full tank. The old fashioned systems worked the other way, maximum resistance was the lowest reading.

Fairly sure the sender is at the back of the tank so if you find a steep hill with about 1/4 of a tank left and park facing downhill for a few minutes the fuel light will probably come on if it's going to.

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Mine comes on as a slow glow, then depending on if you're cornering or going up/down a hill it goes out.  When it stays lit is the time to get to the garage sharpish...the law of sod though means that it usually comes on in gridlock traffic or in the middle of nowhere like East Anglia.  :lol:

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When my fuel light comes on, I know from experience that I easily have another 30 miles driving without running out of fuel.  And, to assist with planning, I always zero the trip recorder when I fill up.  The light normally illuminates somewhere in the low 400s. 

But now, I'm up to 430, and the fuel guage is below "E", but still no light.  I think I'll put a fuel can in the boot as a precaution and see what happens. 

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Grrr...what is it with me and instrument cluster bulbs?  The right hand side of my mileometer is now in darkness.  I thought it was a loose bulb as I tapped the front before and it miraculously came on.  However, no amount of tapping will get it to work and it's either blown or not seating right.   :angry:

p/n: 78180S84A03 SOCKET ASSY., BULB (14V 3.78W)
 
This is the culprit Stu, the large white one in the middle.  Does Project Break have any available? :rolleyes:

B0EF4981-022D-48C7-9122-7B1FB3BABC2F_zps

 

 

 

 

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On 17/03/2016 at 7:36 PM, welland99 said:

I now have a conclusion.  the light is broken!  more details to follow. 

Sorry for the delay.  Been really ill with nasty virus this week and haven;t been able to respond..... :(.  Anyway, feeling better now. 

So, back to 17/3...... Went to work with empty fuel can.  Nearest petrol station is 7 miles away (in the direction of work).  I stopped and bought a gallon of BP's most expensive ultimate (at £1.16 a litre!!!!)  I never normally go there because it is pricey.  Then carried on to work.  When returning home in the evening, I went past the same BP station (having passed many cheaper places in Gloucester), and continued homewards.  Still no sign of running out of fuel. 

A couple of miles further, it cut out momentarily on a bend.  It continued to cut out momentarily for the next couple of miles, before finally stopping on 455 miles since last fill up.  Luckily I managed to freewheel into a safe stopping place - I had been dreading running out on a busy junction. 

I had also been dreading running out in the dark and wet, but at the time it conked out, there was about 5 inutes of dusk left and the gathering clouds were just holding back the rain. 

So, I put in the gallon of posh petrol, turned the key and off we went again.  By now it was dark, and it was raining - so really lucky there. 

And I can now conclude that the petrol light doesn't work!  :P

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