Jump to content
Subscriptions & Donations ×

Recommended Posts

  • Administrators
Posted

Not all members have replaced there spark plugs before and the J30A V6 engines can be a right pain if this service item has been overlooked for a period of time.  :huh: Therefore caution is advised when removing and re-installing any spark plug as you can damage your engine block. Also using anti-seize alters the tightening torque by up to 20% which may cause over-tightening and also anti-seize can reduce electrical ground contact if the anti-seize is non-conductive or semi-conductive. ;)

Photo0089.jpgPhoto0090.jpgPhoto0091.jpgPhoto0092.jpgPhoto0093.jpgPhoto0094.jpgPhoto0095.jpgPhoto0096.jpgPhoto0097.jpgPhoto0098.jpg

Personally, use some conductive anti-seize on the new threads as this will make installing them easier as well as removing them in the future ;)

Photo0099.jpgPhoto0100.jpgPhoto0101.jpgPhoto0102.jpgPhoto0104.jpgPhoto0103.jpg

Never force the plugs out, twist them loose and tighten using penetrating oil and they will come out with ease, persistence pays off :D

 

Photo0106.jpgPhoto0107.jpgPhoto0105.jpgPhoto0088.jpg

Not exactly plain sailing  :rolleyes:  but I got there eventually and any questions please do ask ;)

  • Like 2
  • Founding Member
Posted

Another excellent post Stu.  I remember you fitting some plugs a while ago when I came up and you said not to overtighten them and just nip them up.  When fitting them too I remember you saying to let the new plug "find" the thread by gently turning the plug tool and letting the plug find it's way.  I would imagine overtightening or crossing the thread is a massive nightmare to fix?

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
  • Moderators
Posted

I've made a handy little tool from an old "stubby" screwdriver and a bit of 1/4" bore rubber fuel hose. Cut the hose to about 1-2" longer than the blade of the screwdriver and push it all the way up the blade - it was originally a #2 Pozidrive so the blade is about 7mm diameter and the hose grips the blade tightly. It's also the right size to grip the end of the plug on the contact which means you can use it to insert the plug and start turning it. If it is cross-threaded, the plug will stop turning and the hose will slip on the contact meaning no damaged threads. ;):D Simply loosen it until you feel the thread "drop into place" and then start tightening again. You should be able to get the plug almost fully home this way, then just use the plug wench/socket to do the final tightening. With the crush washer seating, i go to first contact of the washer (when it first goes tighter) then about 1/2 - 3/4 of a turn more tops.

  • Like 3
  • The topic was featured
  • The topic was pinned
  • 1 year later...
  • Administrators
Posted

Well I managed to sneak in a quick plug swap before I lost the light and I am not too sure what to make of these new Denso TT's, my hearing is very sensitive as some of you may know I'm into my audio quality and my coupes sweet smooth cold start audio track has changed dramatically :blink: I shall follow up when its back on the road performance wise and obviously the emissions test result from the MOT. So in the meantime here are a few shots of the old and new plugs, ignore the discolouration on the threads as this is what's left of the anti seize and the plugs came out simply like a hot knife through butter. :D:P

IMG-20170812-204914%5B1%5D.jpg

One of the old NGK iridium plugs, despite appearances it's actually super clean as used spark plugs go. 

IMG-20170812-204934%5B1%5D.jpg

  • Like 1
  • Administrators
Posted
32 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said:

The old ones look good Stu - reading between the lines what you heard hasn't pleased you? :huh:

In one way No and another Yes but that could just be the honey moon period, fitted plenty of the equivalent standard NGK's and few sets of Denso Iridium's and only ever noticed a full on improvement over old plugs. Like I said think it only fair to report when they have a few miles on them, although kinda think I should retrieve my old plugs out of the bin now. :lol:

  • Thanks 1
  • Moderators
Posted
2 minutes ago, hughezee said:

think I should retrieve my old plugs out of the bin now. :lol:

I'll await your few miles down the road report with baited breath! Hopefully not because you're stuck a few miles down the road with dead plugs! :o  ;):D

  • Administrators
Posted
1 minute ago, Laird_Scooby said:

I'll await your few miles down the road report with baited breath! Hopefully not because you're stuck a few miles down the road with dead plugs! :o  ;):D

I hope it's not like, once you go Bosch you go back :lol::lol::lol:

  • Like 1
  • The title was changed to New Spark Plugs 1998 1999 2000 2001 Accord Coupe 3.0 V6
  • 11 months later...
  • Moderators
Posted

I am ashamed to say I can't find any record of changing the spark plugs on the Coupe in my ownership.  The service records, of my one previous owner car, are just about full and complete through the same honda dealers from when it was registered.,,,,,,trouble is they just say things like full 12 month service and although I have a stack of invoices too they don't detail a spark plug change.

I bought some Denso plugs after the discussion the other day, just over 14 quid delivered so I am on with the change over later this saffy. 

  • Like 1
  • Clap Hands 1
  • Moderators
Posted

Well that was entertaining !  

The plugs haven't been out for a while I guess, started with a ratchet and ended up using a breaker bar !! 3/8ths though, not a scaffold pipe !!

Front cover off first then out with the front plug leads, leaving the rear ones until last !!

 

I squirted some release fluid, Ferresol, down the plugholes too, after encountering the first rock shit tight one..

V6-plug-change-1.jpg

ummmmm.

V6-plug-change-2.jpg

 

Long extension bar for the front ones so I can get around the pipework...short one for the rear plugs as access is limited....grease for the plug threads...small amount !

V6-plug-change-3.jpg

 

The rear ones were firkin tight barstewards, the crack when they let go was something else ! The very last one nearest the brake servo is a really awkward one to get too and as I needed the leverage I removed the vac pipes from the rocker cover, The servo etc.

V6-plug-change-4.jpg

 

The very last plug also decided to lose its metal washer as I took it out, you know the score !

Managed to hook it off the bottom of the hole, it was stuck to the head, and then retrieved it with a magnetic thingamajig.... 

V6-plug-change-6.jpg

 

Didn't look too bad but obviously not been out for a while...

V6-plug-change-5.jpg

Beginning to leak at the ceramic / metal interface but generally burning well, NGK ones... installed the Denso and she fired first time running smoothly...

Job done.

 

 

  • Like 2
  • Clap Hands 1
  • Moderators
Posted
7 minutes ago, rich1068 said:

Really looking forward to this now...

You will be fine, just get some squirt down those holes though !!!! and go have a cuppa !! 

Then on the other hand previous owner may not have been as lax as me at changing them !! 😛

  • Like 2
  • Moderators
Posted
11 minutes ago, PTR200S said:

Didn't look too bad but obviously not been out for a while...

V6-plug-change-5.jpg

Beginning to leak at the ceramic / metal interface but generally burning well, NGK ones... installed the Denso and she fired first time running smoothly...

Those gaps are looking somewhat on the large side Pete! :o

Have you measured them at all?

  • Like 2
  • Moderators
Posted
3 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said:

Those gaps are looking somewhat on the large side Pete! :o

Have you measured them at all?

Yes, I did actually !!

The old plugs are about .040 within the spec for this engine, I also checked the new ones .0375....left them at that....soon blow the ends off !!

  • Like 1
  • Clap Hands 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...