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Honda Accord Coupe V6 Dizzy


PTR200S

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Been spraying some bike parts today,  one of those jobs that allows you to think about other things.....like you do ! 😆

Realised I don't think I have ever removed the distributor top to have a look, much like not changing the plugs until a a couple of weeks ago. 🙃

Not that its is running badly or struggling with low tickover,  misfires etc and the philosophy that " if it ain't broke" then should I look inside?

Years ago the dizzy cap would have been off every other weekend, contacts chipped at, points replaced / filed (still got a points file in the toolbox 🤪 ) rotor twiddle with.....now,  does a dizzy need as much maintenance??

Just wondering if I should take a look just to satisfy my curiosity really....

Anyone else never bothered / curious? 

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On 4/24/2021 at 6:06 PM, PTR200S said:

Anyone else never bothered / curious? 

I replaced mine some time ago with a blueprint one, still going strong, easy test open the driver door halfway start the engine then hold the top of the door if you can feel a little lumpiness from the engine once it is fully warmed up, it will likely need cleaning or replacement.😉

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Thanks for that Stu, I like the simple technical testing stuff !! 😛

Note to self,

as the Coupe is now taxed for 1st May , must go out in it first thing Saturday and get it warmed up ready for testing !!

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On 4/24/2021 at 11:50 PM, hughezee said:

easy test open the driver door halfway start the engine then hold the top of the door if you can feel a little lumpiness from the engine once it is fully warmed up, it will likely need cleaning or replacement.😉

Did this and there's a definite ryrhmic judder. 

Going to see if its simple enough to look into

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8 hours ago, Andy Mc said:

Did this and there's a definite ryrhmic judder. 

Going to see if its simple enough to look into

Mine is ok at moment but would be interested to see a blow by blow account and result if you are feeling brave !

Can only see one bolt on my dizzy but suspect there is another hidden under the pipework, need heads up from the man in the know !!

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  • The title was changed to Honda Accord Coupe V6 Dizzy
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11 hours ago, Andy Mc said:

Until Pete mentioned it i wasn't even aware of there been a dizzy cap. Figured it was electric boxes from mid 90's

Presumably it is a hall effect rotor,  or similar, operation inside the dizzy rather than points so I will have to retire my points file!!

Still we will know soon enough,,,,,,, when you take yours apart 😆😆😆😆

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  • 3 weeks later...

Soooo.. it stopped raining and I found 5mins spare which is rare. I thought I'd pop off the cap and have a nosey. Two 8mm's look easy enough. Went for lower one first, half a turn with little pressure and 'pop' https://www.dropbox.com/s/m2dfvybrgk5wkrm/20210524_192822.jpg?dl=0

Seriously getting miffed with screws snapping off on me. 

The lower one is obviously a  bugger to get too also. Any ideas, photos so i know what I'm tackling or give up and get local garage to bail me out ☹

Left top one alone, got a lot of driving to do tomorrow inc motorway. Worried it may start intermittently firing with it not fixed in place.

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For the moment captain cable tie has managed to get round, under and inbetween which should hold it in place for the time being until i can think of a master plan. I'm guessing they both or at least the lower screw goes into the aluminium block?

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The screws will go into the aluminium distributor body. Usually they're held captive on the dizzy cap so it sounds like you'll need a new cap anyway unless Stu can tell us anything different.

It sounds like you'll have to get another cap ready to use, undo the other screws, if they shear then get the old cap off and use your favourite penetrating oil to help rlease the remains of them. Try tightening them a little first then back a little, tighten again, loosen again in a continuous cycle applying penetrating fluid as you go and eventually you should get the remaining screwws out.

You may have to invest in something like this :

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360863100687

Only thing is, that only deals with 6-12mm studs, if memory serves the screws are M4 or M5 thread but they are waisted so the part between head and thread is narrower so won't be much help to you.

Maybe a small pair of Mole grips instead will help...........

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I thought about taking it off completely to grab protruding remains, but it didn't snap at the head. The length that came out i measured next to the top bolt and was enough to clear cap side and into the bracket so unfortunately its snapped in there or right on were it enters the body. Nothing to grab at ☹ certainly not easy to get a drill at either.

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54 minutes ago, Andy Mc said:

I thought about taking it off completely to grab protruding remains, but it didn't snap at the head.

Sorry to hear of your troubles, the small bolts go through the housing so any flakiness on the ends sometimes will get stuck. There's a very good chance you can encourage it to go completely back through and out with a drill bit?🤔

2 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said:

The screws will go into the aluminium distributor body. Usually they're held captive on the dizzy cap so it sounds like you'll need a new cap anyway unless Stu can tell us anything different.

Dave is spot on about the distributor body 😉 it can be removed completely from the engine, some of the caps retain the bolts/ screws but can easily be replaced.🖐️

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7 hours ago, hughezee said:

Sorry to hear of your troubles, the small bolts go through the housing so any flakiness on the ends sometimes will get stuck. There's a very good chance you can encourage it to go completely back through and out with a drill bit?🤔

 it can be removed completely from the engine, 

Following on from what Dave and Stu are saying, this is the route I would take and also get the dizzy body off the engine first.

If the screws go far enough to protrude through the casting then, as I said in a recent post on brakes, the corrosion takes hold on the exposed thread of the bolt.

This fact of the bolt through the casting will help remove it.  Cut a slot in the exposed end of the screw for a small flat blade screwdriver.   Use lots of penetrating oil and leave overnight. If you can't get a screwdriver in there maybe some narrow gripping pliers or similar. 

The intention here is to remove the screw out of the BACK of the dizzy casting, it screws through it so it just as easily unscrew out of the back !!! The threads inside the casting won't be as corroded as those sticking out so concentrate on getting lube down the broken bit as well.

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And if you can acquire a spare dizzy to use whilst yours is out of action, the pressure will be off.... and in my experience once pressure is off the problem seems to vanish and its likely teh screw will just "fall" out...

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11 minutes ago, PaulS said:

in my experience once pressure is off the problem seems to vanish and its likely teh screw will just "fall" out...

In my experience, once the pressure is off the original repair doesn't get done until it's needed! :P:lol:

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Yes, i can see the cable tie fix being a bit longer than temporary. 

Is digging out the the whole dizzy a big job or not?

Can't see behind, but from the top exposed screw it doesn't appear to protrude out the back of the bracket 😕

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3 hours ago, Andy Mc said:

Yes, i can see the cable tie fix being a bit longer than temporary. 

Is digging out the the whole dizzy a big job or not?

Can't see behind, but from the top exposed screw it doesn't appear to protrude out the back of the bracket 😕

looks to be two 10mm / 12mm nuts holding dizzy body in, just nipped out to check... also the dizzy screw pokes out the back of the dizzy body by at least 3mm. Are you sure you can't see anything poking out ???

That's my top screw poking out the back of the dizzy body, that non threaded end middle left of pic.

20210525-170940.jpg

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