Jump to content
Subscriptions & Donations ×

Looking for a Accord Coupe V6


Torogo

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, just joined your forum, and keen to find a good V6 coupe. Been watching the market much of this year but not found the right one yet. Had a 5door Exec 2.0 Accord on W from almost new - no issues in 110k miles, then  a 55-plate type-S for 120k painless miles. Moved to a VW CC in 2016 (Accord no longer an newish option) loved spec and styling, but sterile drive and clutch & Gbox failed at 45k miles, water pump failure and dragging calliper in recent months at under 70k, so with fewer miles to cover these days have a yearning to get back to rising-classic Honda Coupe V6. Like the dark colour/ pale interior combinations. Have a neighbour with a green Y-plate v6, one owner FHSH under 50k miles, but he’s not been tempted to sell. Looked at the Caversham car (at trader in Swindon) but a bit too much tic needed for the money he wanted. Nice purple 2.0 in Truro, reads really good, but think I’d regret the lack of 3.0 v6 if I went that route, so still looking!  Aware that the youngest now rising 20yrs old so keen to know the weak points to watch out for - plastic oversills make me nervous, and have read of subframe rust issues? Grew up with British sixties cars, so know the meaning of rust, (and the value of Waxoyl) hoping h6nda Forum will give me some good steers - live in W.Berks but ready to travel for the right car 👍 . Planning that this one will be a keeper - bought 3 cars in my teens, and still have them smart and roadworthy, so  the Accord will join an elite band,

  • Like 6
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Welcome aboard! Don't be surprised if our illustrious leader aka Stu or "Hughezee" moves your first post to the Introduction Section, he does that from time to time to help keep the various sections clear of stuff that would be more relevant somewhere else.

 

What sort of budget do you have and are you looking for one that neds a bit of work to bring it up to scratch or a minter from the start?

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Founding Member
16 hours ago, Torogo said:

Have a neighbour with a green Y-plate v6, one owner FHSH under 50k miles, but he’s not been tempted to sell.

Now that’s a car I’d love to see!!! 
 

Good luck on your search! 

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators
22 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said:

Welcome aboard! Don't be surprised if our illustrious leader aka Stu or "Hughezee" moves your first post to the Introduction Section, he does that from time to time to help keep the various sections clear of stuff that would be more relevant somewhere else.

Thanks for the infortmative mention Dave, snip snip 😂

  • Like 3
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators
On 6/13/2020 at 6:42 PM, Torogo said:

so with fewer miles to cover these days have a yearning to get back to rising-classic Honda Coupe V6.


Welcome to the club and first off great choice of motor 😃 however finding that perfect unmolested example would be a very rare opportunity indeed, but they do come up. However, beware of inflated prices for low mileage examples, after all, they're getting on in years now. Within the last year a really lovely example came up, but as I predicted at the time it would need money spending on it i.e new radiator & condenser at the least.🙄


Now we have since welcomed the new owner and working on the car it subsequently needed all of the above plus additional work i.e fuel tank, timing belt, A.C compressor and I am now in the process of replacing the fuel tank and refurbing the whole rear end to retain its longevity. My personal coupe has been faultless up until very recently and I have a real issue with mechanical sympathy and its age, so and replace parts unnecessarily and offer them to members, works for me.😋 Nevertheless, it drives brilliantly without a single niggle, so I can see why your neighbour won't part with his I haven't found anything that suits me better or ever likely too either TBH and don't get me started on modern-ish Euro Trash 😵


Shame about the one linked above as the former owner offered here for peanuts and it was snagged by a dealer with optimistic pricing or a has very expensive car cleaning person which initiated the premium price. 😒

  • Like 4
  • Clap Hands 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the welcome; Yep, the Swindon car is the one I went to see (price since dropped by £300). It’s the one that was covered in posts here back in April for sale at £600 near Reading on Autotrader.

When I said “S-type” in opening ramble, should have said “type-S” - definitely Honda, not Jag, and actually my first experience of Honda was with the BL licensed Ballade, aka Triumph Acclaim, bought back in the early nineties. A one owner car bought off an uncle, sound and smart, but at 10years old, suffering early signs of rampant rust ☹️.

My hope now is to offload ‘the modern’ (VW Passat CC), and enjoy the v6 coupe as my daily car, - so keen to start from a well-documented & smart sub 100k miler that has been well loved, and will be preserved by me with underbody wax, polished paintwork and sympathetic maintenance. £3k for the right car would feel like good value. Not looking for a doer-upper really, but understand that stainless exhaust etc may be needed.

So what kills these cars? Honda mechanicals tend to be bulletproof, so is it rot that gets them, or just scrapes and neglect that make them uneconomic? Keen to tap into honda6 expertise. Also aware that the best cars are often sold privately, avoiding the ordeal of tyre-kickers and used car traders.

Thanks all, Tg

  • Like 3
  • Clap Hands 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
On 6/15/2020 at 12:18 AM, Torogo said:

my first experience of Honda was with the BL licensed Ballade, aka Triumph Acclaim

Aaaaah, the first product of the Anchorage Agreement! 👍

Member RetroRich has one he's restoring at present, he was lucky enough to find one of the rare Avon versions and plundered it for the good bits.

My first Honda was a Mk2 Ballade 1.5 EXi, from the back and sides looked like a Rover 213/216, from the front looked like an 86-89 Civic.

Quick machine, the local XR3i's all thought it was a Rover and couldn't work out why it disappeared so quick with only a 1300cc lump! :lol:

As for what kills the V6, not a lot apart from what Stu has outlined above and gearbox problems. These are mainly caused by negelected changes of fluid and/or incorrect fluid being used. Two things that are a definite no-no are anything made with a Dexron name and Honda DW-1 fluid. Despite Hondas claims, DW-1 is NOT backwards compatible.

I use Carlube ATF-U in mine, others use older version Valvoline ATF or AMSOIL, there are a few other products around but those are good, safe bets. Also don't do a "flushing change" on the ATF, do what many people call a "sump-dump" or as we tend to call it on here, a "part-change". The gearbox drain plug needs a 3/8" square key (or socket drive) to remove it. Get the transmission hot by driving 5-8 miles, raise the front end just enough to get a drain tray underneath and remove the drain plug. It will be HOT so be careful!

Drain the fluid and while it's draining, clean the drain plug, it has a magnet on to catch anything. Hopefully it's fairly clean. Refit the plug with either a new M14 aluminiumor copper crush washer or an M14 Dowty washer (my preference and specified by Rover instead of the crush washers) and tighten it. Get a long funnel and add new fluid to the right level. On mine it's 3.2L but i can never remember it for the 3.0 V6, 2.9L rings a bell but i might be wrong, Stu will advise the correct figure i'm sure.

Recheck the level after the run, topping up if necessary.

Repeat the procedure monthly for 2-3 months until the fluid is staying as clean as it went in, then do one part-change a year to keep it in spec.

I also use 0.5L of ATF-U in with my engine oil to keep the hydraulic tappets doing what they should, the engine clean inside, prevent piston rings and valves sticking and condition the rubber seals in the engine. I also do this with my other V6 which is a Volvo and doesn't have hydraulic tappets but the oil leaks are reducing. ;):D

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Oops, sorry, missed your first post!  Late again !

Welcome, indeed, to the best place on the net for Coupes!

If you need info there is a wealth of knowledge,  and sh!€ 😄 ,  that the gurus can offer, just ask !! 

Does appear you need a Coupe first though !!!!!! ........On it, as they say 🙂

 

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Depending how much you want spend there is a V6 , 1999, with 54k miles on in Nottinghamshire.  But light external black interior. 

Family owned last 14 years, spare set of 17 inch alloys from a Civic R , service history including cambelt change .

1600 quid though, near offer gets it !!

Couple more on too, Check out Car and Classic website.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

All good stuff, i’m Soaking it all up! I do take the point that they are 20yr old cars, irrespective of mileage, so will require work at some point to keep them sweet and reliable 👍

how much of an issue is rust? I’ve seen some rear arches splitting, how fragile are they underneath? Sills and subframe mountings a concern? Any other specific areas to check on a prospective purchase?

also what is the view on mileage these engines/ transmissions are good for? Is a well maintained 130k miler a better prospect than a low miler without evidence of routine servicing (it usually is!)

theres a blue w-plate on 130k in Croydon - anybody seen that one? Chewed sear bolsters always seem to come with higher miles!

thanks for your help guys - keen to find a good one even if it takes a little while, Tg

  • Like 3
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
1 hour ago, Torogo said:

theres a blue w-plate on 130k in Croydon - anybody seen that one?

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-ACCORD-COUPE-3-0-V6-AUTO-rare-classic/164238956405

That one? It's in Essex now if so! Bolsters always suffer on those sort of seats, especially in what is essentially quite a low car. Made worse by people wearing jeans with rivets in obviously, Stu has a few repair techniques for bolsters.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators
7 hours ago, Torogo said:

how much of an issue is rust? I’ve seen some rear arches splitting, how fragile are they underneath? Sills and subframe mountings a concern? Any other specific areas to check on a prospective purchase?

As a general rule, they're pretty solid motors compared with other cars of similar vintage, but I have seen a couple of low mileage examples that looked like they were parked in rock salt for years.

7 hours ago, Torogo said:

theres a blue w-plate on 130k in Croydon - anybody seen that one? Chewed sear bolsters always seem to come with higher miles!

I am guessing that's the one Dave has linked and I have seen a few of their motors and they're not worth the money IMO they don't prepare them to a particularly high standard or have any specialist knowledge to justify those prices...

  • Like 2
  • Clap Hands 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 4 months later...

I’m going to have to break the habit of scanning all the car sites daily for cg6 Coupes, as I’ve finally put a deposit on one🍾🍻🥂. Picking it up on Saturday from Essex. It’s a ‘99 V-plate on 104k miles. Private sale, and family owned since 2006. Nice guy: it’s been his weekend car doing 4000miles annually, original purple paintwork, good pale leather interior, and drives like a dream. MoT history clean as a whistle till this Sept when rust to end of sill showed that no car is immune. The documentation includes original bill of sale at £31k - so I can see why they achieved rarity. 

Alloy wheels are original but very scabby - lacquer lifting across around 30% of visible surface, and near side rear arch swelling at the base from rust. Exhaust gas-tight but looks scabby. Otherwise am optimistic that it’s an honest well maintained and oil-tight car. (Has CD autochanger in the boot, but Honda/Bose OEM radio no longer in there, so it’s of no use.

will get some pictures up as soon as I master the technology! Have kissed a few frogs in my quest to find a good one, and am feeling irrationally excited about this one! (Current owner unaware of the H6 forum, so this one may be new to you.

(I did journey to Truro to see the purple x-plate 2l still advertised on C&C at 45k miles. Looks like they’ve gone out of business- found the site, but no car there, and DVLA history shows a serious MoT fail list from May, no pass since, despite the ad saying MoT to Jan21 - and it’s priced at  £3k in the ad.)

(also went to Dymchurch Kent to see a low owners/low miles 2l auto coupe in gold. This one again near £3k asking price and supported by good MoT history. Nice elderly chap selling (also has a gold Legend in the garage too - his & hers Hondas!). Sadly being a seaside car it just looked too crusty underneath for me to proceed - still felt soft around rear jacking point, and everything was flakey under there, so I departed without test drive)

high hopes for V825GCF though, I love aubergine with pale leather, the V6 auto combination is silky smooth, and seems great value at £1200. Everything crossed for the weekend when my 100+ collection miles will be the real learning curve,

thanks for all the advice give on auto trans servicing etc. The waxoyling she gets as a priority will give me the chance to get under there and explore. 

Sorry for all the words - I know photos needed!!

  • Like 2
  • Clap Hands 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Excellent news !!

Welcome to the clan (no not the crusader ! ) 

Your Coupe, to be, sounds like a well looked after family member., wheels always seem to take the hit but a good session with wet and dry, maybe lacquer after will have them looking good...I did mine and just waxed them, lasted a couple of years though.

All the rear silencers look scabby, just don't poke them!!

 

  • Like 1
  • Clap Hands 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The guy has a tame mechanic who has serviced the car every year for the last several, and he did some localised welding to resolve the fail, which looked like a neat job on the sill, but couldn’t see the suspension mount fix. Was a bit confused by reference to suspension mounting corrosion, as would have thought that would be referred to as subframe rot (I’m not yet fully familiar with layout under there) it could be that this is the reason car is being sold of course, but a charge was made for the welding, so am hoping the description reads scarier than the issue (for MoT fault recording, anyone know; is this drop-down menu stuff, or does tester really have to type all that wordy stuff in each time?)

very few fails in the car’s DVLA MoT history, which suggests they have kept an eye on things, rather than just ‘fix the fails’ but I know with cars (and rust) that problems are usually worse than you fear, rather than better, so there is a risk that the next MoT (sept21) could be a tipping point. It is just such a handsome car, good paint lustre and no dents or scrapes, great leather, and sooo smooth!! I’ve got it bad !!

good point on possible use of 2nd MoT venue - hope not, but won’t know till I see the paperwork at the weekend

(ps any clues on where I find hints on photo upload approach for this website - I do have the ad photos to share)

  • Like 1
  • Clap Hands 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
4 hours ago, Torogo said:

Was a bit confused by reference to suspension mounting corrosion, as would have thought that would be referred to as subframe rot

It could be the suspension mounting point, for example where the rear trailing arm bolts to the chassis at it's forward end. Likewise a hole in a sill could potentially be within 12" of a seatbelt mounting point so it would fail on a seatbelt mounting point corrosion.

There are several interpretations to most of the common phrases, until today i hadn't had a failure for many years so don't know if it's on a drop-down menu or not, things changed a couple of years or so back.

1494.jpg

Pic shamefully stolen from an Australian Land Rover forum, the red bits are the trailing arms and the front bit where they bolt through the chssis flanges are suspension mounting points. Gives you a vague idea anyway!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators
55 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said:

until today i hadn't had a failure for many years ?...?................so don't know if it's on a drop-down menu or not, things changed a couple of years or so back.

eh? What? Something happened???

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...