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Hello! Newbie with a V6!


arif_manji

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Hello guys!

I'm a newbie with a v6! So... last week I purchased a Honda Accord Coupe v6 automatic that only has 51,000 miles on the clock. I've always driven Prelude's and this is my first Accord v6. I do have some questions if anyone can help me with to get me started:

- the VTEC doesn't kick in at 3.5k, and engine sound doesnt change etc. There is no CEL or issues. The oil is at max but I think it could do with changing as it does look old. Anything else you guys may think it is?

- What oil grade does it take? Some are saying 5w40 and some are saying 0w20,

- The gearbox oil needs changing, as it isn't that red cherry as I usually see in these Honda cars.

This car was going to be a tidy up and sell off, but really starting to like it now.

Cheers

29-B94-C32-323-A-4-C89-B994-52-C33-D12-C

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Welcome aboard the best source of info on the wibbly-wobbly-web!

Oil should be 10W40 semi-synthetic, before you change it add 0.5L of Carlube ATF-U to the engine oil and drive it for at least a week. This will help clean things out, including the hydraulic lifters and the VTEC valves.

While that's doing its stuff in the engine, get yourself a tub to drain the gearbox ATF, you'll need a 3/8" square drain plug key (or a 3/8" drive ratchet), get the engine and box nice and warm then switch off, remove the drain plug and let the fluid drain into a suitable container.

Clean and refit the drain plug then top up to the required level with ATF-U - many people on here will suggest Valvoline ATF and yes, it's a very good fluid but for now, it would seem you're going to need to get the old stuff out as quickly and cheaply as possible, ATF-U is cheaper than Valvoline and still conforms to Honda ATF Z-1 spec.

I can't remember the exact amount but it's around 3L to bring it back to the right level.

This is a part-change. Do another in about a month then follow it with one more. After the 3rd part-change, you need to reset the ECU but Stu will tell you how to do that, i have an older version so i simply remove a fuse for 30s or so, that can be done as well but i can't remember which fuse and the slicker method is to use a scan tool but it needs to be the right one.

 

When you come to do the oil/filter change, use the genuine Honda filter (similar price to aftermarket) and after you've drained the old oil, clean and refit the drain plug and new filter.

Add 1L of ATF-U then top up to the right level with 10W40 semi-synth. Do this at every oil/filter change and you'll be amazed at the improvements and so will the MoT tester with your emissions!

Going back to the gearbox briefly, once you've done 3 part-changes, if you're happy with it as it is, leave it a year and do one part-change. That would be the time to decide whether to use Valvoline or not.

Whatever you do, don't ever use Dexron in the gearbox, you will kill it! :o

Oh yeah, one last thing - we love to see pics on here! :P

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2 hours ago, arif_manji said:

Thanks mate! I thought it was 3500 rpm on the v6's? Is yours a v6 or the 2.0i?

Mine's a V6. Kicks in at 4500 and runs out of go at just over 6000rpm. Nicely brutal, like a two stroke motorbike from the late 70s 😂

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2 hours ago, arif_manji said:

I'm a newbie with a v6!

Welcome indeed ! another one to the fold !

Laird_Scooby is right on with that info.  Re the vtec, you don't hear it quite the same as the older vtec cars, much smoother but you do feel a discernible kick change... As has been suggested a good clean out of all the oils back passages should see it come back on song....and as has been pointed out, pedal to the metal.....OIL CHANGES AND STUFF FIRST though !!!!

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Stunning looking V6 Coupe. The best of your post is that fact it was a tidy up and sell on BUT you’re starting to like it now......such an understated coupe and such a pleasure to drive. 
 

Welcome! 
 

Ps What Laird_Scooby said 

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@Laird_Scooby thanks for the info! I'm thinking of using Shell Helix 10w40 oil, is this good for the v6 engine? I use this on my Prelude's and seems to be good oil. In regards to the transmissions fluid, Honda have recommended me ATF-DW1 fluid (by Cox Honda). Your thoughts? The fluid in my accord is very light red, never seen this light red fluid in a Honda.

Cheers

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3 minutes ago, arif_manji said:

I'm thinking of using Shell Helix 10w40 oil, is this good for the v6 engine?

Wouldn't be my first choice as i have a downer on Shell in general but haven't heard any bad reports on it and the members that do use it say it's good.

 

5 minutes ago, arif_manji said:

Honda have recommended me ATF-DW1 fluid

NO!!!!!! :o Contrary to popular belief, DW-1 is NOT backwards compatible with Z-1 ATF and is likely to cause torque converter damage, rendering your transmission uselss. On occasions if there is a problem with the gearbox, it can be used to help but must be changed as soon as the fault starts to go.

In the USA, Honda faced a Class Action lawsuit for telling customers DW-1 was backwards compatible as it fried several transmissions. Use what i suggested earlier in the thread, for a start it's cheaper (even the Valvoline) than DW-1 and second, the fluid won't cause any problems for you.

 

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1 hour ago, arif_manji said:

Honda have recommended me ATF-DW1 fluid

and NO !!!!

I have been using Valvoline ATF but the formula has now changed we think, any Valvoline prior to 2016 looks to be good though and sometimes it comes up online as its sold off.

Have a look at this,,,, history of all ! and obviously where we are upto at the end courtesy of the Boss !

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, arif_manji said:

I'm thinking of using Shell Helix 10w40 oil,

Each to his own on the oil front, I am currently using Smith and Allen 10-30 as recommended on here but I am currently using Tradetec 10-40 in the Elysion V6.... and Honda Jazz of 02 and 06 vintage.

I have tried using Magnatec 10-40 but although satisfactory it seems to dirty up quickly suggesting more detergent in it.

Personally I would ignore fully synthetic (engine was not designed for that), semi ok I guess, don't go under 10 weight so NO to the current trend of using 0-20, 5-30.....you WILL burn oil using that!!

Some thoughts here too.

 

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I'm also using Tradetec 10W40 in my Rover (Honda C27 V6) with no problems as well. Never tried Magnatec in anything i've owned, seemed like a lot of hype for no real gain (and a lot of money too!), the Tradetec seems a good oil so if was to suggest one out of them all, it would be that.

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On ‎2‎/‎3‎/‎2020 at 11:53 AM, Laird_Scooby said:

Welcome aboard the best source of info on the wibbly-wobbly-web!

Oil should be 10W40 semi-synthetic, before you change it add 0.5L of Carlube ATF-U to the engine oil and drive it for at least a week. This will help clean things out, including the hydraulic lifters and the VTEC valves.

While that's doing its stuff in the engine, get yourself a tub to drain the gearbox ATF, you'll need a 3/8" square drain plug key (or a 3/8" drive ratchet), get the engine and box nice and warm then switch off, remove the drain plug and let the fluid drain into a suitable container.

Clean and refit the drain plug then top up to the required level with ATF-U - many people on here will suggest Valvoline ATF and yes, it's a very good fluid but for now, it would seem you're going to need to get the old stuff out as quickly and cheaply as possible, ATF-U is cheaper than Valvoline and still conforms to Honda ATF Z-1 spec.

I can't remember the exact amount but it's around 3L to bring it back to the right level.

This is a part-change. Do another in about a month then follow it with one more. After the 3rd part-change, you need to reset the ECU but Stu will tell you how to do that, i have an older version so i simply remove a fuse for 30s or so, that can be done as well but i can't remember which fuse and the slicker method is to use a scan tool but it needs to be the right one.

 

When you come to do the oil/filter change, use the genuine Honda filter (similar price to aftermarket) and after you've drained the old oil, clean and refit the drain plug and new filter.

Add 1L of ATF-U then top up to the right level with 10W40 semi-synth. Do this at every oil/filter change and you'll be amazed at the improvements and so will the MoT tester with your emissions!

Going back to the gearbox briefly, once you've done 3 part-changes, if you're happy with it as it is, leave it a year and do one part-change. That would be the time to decide whether to use Valvoline or not.

Whatever you do, don't ever use Dexron in the gearbox, you will kill it! :o

Oh yeah, one last thing - we love to see pics on here! :P

Thanks for the info guys!

@Laird_Scooby Just to confirm, your suggesting adding carlube ATF (automatic transmission fluid) 0.5ltr into the engine oil to clean up the valves and VTEC valves for a week?

@PTR200S Also, where is the best place to get the transmission fluid, only place i can find is::https://www.opieoils.co.uk/p-85494-valvoline-atf-automatic-transmission-fluid.aspx

I am really glad i signed up to this forum or i would have put in ATF-DW1!

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33 minutes ago, arif_manji said:

Just to confirm, your suggesting adding carlube ATF (automatic transmission fluid) 0.5ltr into the engine oil

Yes, do it at least a week before the change. When you do the change and have drained the old oil, fitted the new filter and sump plug, first add 1L of ATF-U then add 10W40 semi-synth to bring it up to the correct level.

If you checked the oil in both of my beasts by oil analysis, you would find ATF-U in there, last oil change was about 2 months before xmas.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Carlube-Atf-U-Synthetic-Automatic-Transmission-Fluid-Gearbox-Steering-4-55-Litre/233257297843

Best price i can find on ebay for the gallon size (4.55L) for ATF-U at the moment. Looking at the link you provided from Opie Oils, the ATF-U is much the cheaper option at the moment, especially as i would strongly suggest doing 3 part-changes a month or so apart as you don't know the history of the gearbox and from the description of the fluid in there, i doubt it's the right one.

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1 hour ago, arif_manji said:

I am really glad i signed up to this forum or i would have put in ATF-DW1!

Glad to hear it, although I would suggest checking these topics before making an ATF purchase as Valvoline Europe has changed the formula now.

Cheers

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