Moderators PTR200S Posted September 28, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 The new towbar ( PHON 54 from Watling ) has arrived and as quite a few owners are wanting to put them on their vehicles I thought I might share my install highs and lows ! First job is to get it up off the ground preferably with ramps or at a push with a jack and axle stands. Had some bas weather this last couple of days, and today too , so the van is a bit worse for wear !! Get the mudflaps off, three screws... Remove the spare wheel, you WILL need the space !! At the back end of the bumper, underneath are two push fit fasteners into a bracket either side. You can see one in the pic below bottom left to the right of the pipe Remove the two screws, one either side , on the very top of the bumper where it fits into the wheel arch...you need to use a long screwdriver at an angle... then the two screws , again one either side, that hold the lower edge of the bumper to the body just behind the wheel. They are vertical, up, and were beneath the mudflap. Lift the tailgate and remove the two M6 bolts on either side, just inboard of the rear light. There is a plastic cover over each bolt and it will be obvious once the tailgate is open...use a nylon trim tool to pop the little covers out, they are body coloured and will damage easily if you use a screwdriver ! Then pull each side of the bumper out of the trim fixings on the top edge... see pic below. You can see the locating hole at the end for the screw that is fastened into the top edge of the wheel arch. With a bit of jiggling you should end up with this piece in your hands,,, any more parts and you've buggered it ! Put it down carefully or better still put it away somewhere safe. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted September 28, 2019 Author Moderators Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 This is what should be in view now.... Now the exhaust needs to be dropped off its rubber mounts, two on each silencer and one on the mid box....hold them at a lower height using wire , bungees or something similar...its heavy, don't let it bend at the front of the van !!! Use some WD, Ferrosol, GT85 or similar on the rubber mounts , they will push off easily then. Once the silencers are lowered, and secured, spray the four M6 bolts on each of the heatshields above the silencer, with releasing agent, and take them off... These two holes at the rear of the heatshield are the ones we want to open up for the new towbar sidemounts... from 6mm to 10mm with 150mm centres. Two holes either side....... bracket mount 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted September 28, 2019 Author Moderators Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 Checking the instructions for the bar I noted that there is no mention of the heatshields, so they will need modifying before putting back on.... also now another problem has reared its head.... the new 10mm holes have to have the bolts fed in through the chassis ends, according to the instructions. Watling provide the four bolts with rods welded to the heads that enables them to be fed down the chassis and manoeuvred through the holes... Here is the end of the chassis on my van..............😟 Lefthand end.... with towing eye thread... righthand side..... No way in through there !!! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted September 28, 2019 Author Moderators Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 and now its raining again..... all stop..... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted September 28, 2019 Administrators Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 10 minutes ago, PTR200S said: Watling provide the four bolts with rods welded to the heads that enables them to be fed down the chassis and manoeuvred through the holes... After seeing many towbars fitted I have seen them bolt completely through the chassis so removing the interior and drill right through? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted September 28, 2019 Author Moderators Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 2 minutes ago, hughezee said: bolt completely through the chassis Yes, likewise, , having fitted quite a few bars over the years that used to be the thing also using spacer bars to inside the chassis, if accessible. I haven't investigated it yet but I suspect the access through the top might be restrictive...still, worth checking, thanks 😃 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted September 28, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 18 minutes ago, PTR200S said: Checking the instructions for the bar I noted that there is no mention of the heatshields, Presumably the heatshields are clamped in place by the new brackets? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted September 28, 2019 Author Moderators Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 2 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: Presumably the heatshields are clamped in place by the new brackets? That's how I intend to fit them, open out the two forward holes to 10mm and put the shield back then mount the bracket over the top...as I said though, Watling have made no mention of them in the instructions.... very remiss ! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Founding Member PaulS Posted September 28, 2019 Founding Member Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 Would 10mm rivet nuts work for you fitted from underneath? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted September 28, 2019 Author Moderators Report Share Posted September 28, 2019 Hmm, don't know, be a little concerned with the loading capability of riv ......the bolts are vertical so pulling down all the time when bar is loaded. I suspect thats why Watling want the bolts through the top. Do you know what riv nuts loading is capable of ? Wonder if the HRT Riv nuts would do it..... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted September 29, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 Rivnuts seemed a good idea at first but thinking about it, probably wouldn't be a good idea. It's not just the static loading when the trailer is attached, it's the dynamic loading as you tow it. Also when the rivnut is compressed, it only has a small contact area with the surrounding metal, not spreading it as the bracket and a washer would. I tried looking for some rivnut loading charts but could only find them in Newtons which i can never remember the conversion to "real world" units at the best of times, not awake enough yet to even try thiking of it! As such haven't linked to one or posted it here as i couldn't find the most likely one for the application. For something less critical than a towbar bracket, they're great but personally i wouldn't trust them on something with shear, stretch and dynamic loads that could be fairly enormous compared to holding a machine panel in place for example. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted September 29, 2019 Author Moderators Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 Just been checking some US tb installs on CRV.... they use a plate and bolt insert which seems to work well, downside is drilling a hole bigger than the nut head, then threading the bolt and plate into the chassis. Anyway, still raining here, need to talk to Watling, might even reassemble the van again, ...bit peed off, really, about the instruction on paper Watling have issued to the actuality in the real world Edit, had another look at chassis rail and found an access hole , under the heat shield area towards the front of the van about a foot away from the m6 holes that need to be enlarged to 10mm...looking at Watling instructions again I think this hole is the one they may have used but it is tight up against the lower rear suspension when the bolt rod is inserted. If it ever stops raining for longer than a couple of minutes I might drill holes and give it a go !!! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted September 29, 2019 Administrators Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 1 hour ago, PTR200S said: bit peed off, really, about the instruction on paper Watling have issued to the actuality in the real world Pretty common with china imported stuff, but I would have expected it to be clear and accurate coming from a UK supplier? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted September 29, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 11 minutes ago, hughezee said: I would have expected it to be clear and accurate coming from a UK supplier? Very often not the case as things like this are usually written by the people who fit them day in, day out and they do things automatically without even registering mentally they've done them. When they write (or dictate while doing it) the method, those little automatic things get left out. For example, if i was to ask you to write a step-by-step procedure for doing an oil and filter change, i could almost guarantee you'd leave something out because you do it automatically - second nature because you do it so often. I know i did when trying to explain it to someone who had never done one before. Often a phone call will clarify the situation but even more often, it's a case of offering the bits up in the most obvious combination first then maybe a couple of other combinations. In Petes case, i'd go for clamping the heatshield with the towbar bracket as the first one, second fit a large washer to the TB bracket bolt, through the heatshield and then the bracket, third i'd have to be there fitting it to think of that option! Usually the answer to missed instructions is staring us in the face, walking away and having a coffee or tea and a think or even just clearing your mind will reveal inspiration. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted September 29, 2019 Author Moderators Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 Well, managed to get the bolts through the chassis ! Using the hole at the back...it would seem, now that I know that, it is what Watling actually want you to do but as Dave says not very clear instructions and away for a coffee is the answer ! Also, sorted the heat shield out and as suspected a slight mod to the edge on one side plus a 10mm hole through one of the mounting bolts allows the shield to fit in its normal place and the side bar to clamp over it. Think this is what you meant , Dave? Pulling it tight flattens the heatshield and bends it slightly but its soft stuff so once the silencers back up its just a matter of bending it to suit. The rodded bolts.... Drilling out the two existing M6 holes, 150mm apart, (ex heatshield and spare) I used an 8mm, then 9mm finally a 10mm drill bit to take it out cleanly ...very thick chassis metal ! Test mount of the bracket once the bolts were through, you can see the access hole where the two rods are coming out...if you have played the arcade games trying to pick up a fluffy toy with a hook and drop it in a shute.... Here is the heat shield back in place, slight trim of edge and flatten against chassis ... ....already pi$$£d wet through and by the time it stopped raining I needed sustenance. 😟 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted September 29, 2019 Author Moderators Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 Rain stopped again ! Got out there, two minutes in, it started again , arghhh, chosen the wrong weekend to do this !. Got on with it anyway. Couple pics missed off last post of the minor mods to the heat shield, just one hole to enlarge to 10mm and a small snip off the corner to allow it around the side bracket. main towbar mounted to side bracket, two 10mm bolts either side. Here is bar on now ready for the vertical mount hole to be drilled, 10mm again... Last hole, pilot through single skin....what's behind that panel , Dad? This is what is missing from the instruction !! Take the jack out before drilling !! and inside the jack storage space, here is the 10mm hole through from the outside....I will put a 10mm bolt through here 🙄 Lot of crap to vacuum out, don't think the jack has ever been out.. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted September 29, 2019 Author Moderators Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 Next job is get that exhaust back up and mounted, spray some lube on the rubbers again, dead easy to fit... before I did this I got the Bilt Hamber UC anti corrosion wax out and give it a good dousing around all the panel joints and new bolts. the tow bar will get a good spraying before the bumper goes back on too. and finish for today....... apparently all this takes about an hour....don't think so, takes an hour to remove all the bits / hardware/bumper etc. at least another two hours interpreting the instructions and doing things not mentioned like heat shields...and there is still all the electrics to hook up. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted September 29, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted September 29, 2019 29 minutes ago, PTR200S said: apparently all this takes about an hour....don't think so, It does only take an hour if someone else removes the bumper, trim etc and has all the knowledge of where the holes are going to come out, has done it a million times before, isn't being extra careful because it's their own car, have all the right size tools to hand including perhaps a 10mm Christmas Tree cutter to save changing drill bits, have power tools to do the nuts/bolts up and so on. Oh yeah, a nice, dry, heated well lit workshop is always helpful to doing things quickly too! While the towbar is being mounted outside, another is inside doing the electrics - hour? All done pal! Doing it yourself, think of a number, double it, divide by the amount of tea-breaks you think you need then multiply by the amount of tea-breaks you'll need just for your sanity then multiply by 23.69783 and that's how many hours it's likely to take in real life! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted September 30, 2019 Author Moderators Report Share Posted September 30, 2019 Pressed on this morning fitting the socket cabling, the spare wheel and the bumper back on. Had to relocate the lower mount on the rear sensor but in the end just used a longer bolt and a spacer or two as the brackets are not that strong to bend too much. Ideal grommet and hole for cable ready to go ! drilled 6mm diameter through the grommet so that the cable is a nice tight, snug waterproof fit.. Internal routing of the cable ready for connection to trailer buzzer and van electrics. First cut of the bumper, this took some "courage" to cut into my nice shiny bumper so that it would clear the bar.!! Had to take the bumper off twice more before I was happy with the clearance. Looking good now 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted September 30, 2019 Author Moderators Report Share Posted September 30, 2019 Oops, got some bits left over ..... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted September 30, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted September 30, 2019 3 hours ago, PTR200S said: First cut of the bumper, this took some "courage" to cut into my nice shiny bumper so that it would clear the bar.!! Had to take the bumper off twice more before I was happy with the clearance. Looking good now You haven't mentioned it Pete so i'm guessing you either didn't think of or fit some sort of protection between the bumper and towbar? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Large-Rubber-U-Channel-Edging-Trim-Black-Seal-Push-Fit-Deep-2mm-3mm-Strip-1M/153224485874 Quite probably that's not thick enough between the inside and outside inner faces for the bumper but that's the sort of thing i'm thinking of - just to protect the bumper from the vibrations against the towbar that can crack polycarbonate and similar bumpers. Will also eliminate any vibrations of the bumper being transmitted through the towbar and making the boot floor vibrate like a big sounding board. Probably a pig to fit now the bumper is back on but i daresay you could feed it in and around the bar with a bit of patience and lube. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted September 30, 2019 Author Moderators Report Share Posted September 30, 2019 Don't need any padding on this install, the bumper doesn't touch the bar at all, anywhere. The lower part of the bumper is held off the chassis by two brackets and the ends are fastened directly to the wheel arch. The cut is big enough to accommodate any movement but is in fact very rigid. The top part of the bumper wraps around the body as a lower body panel and is cliped along the full length, four bolts hold the rear panel at the rear light !evel...very rigid !! Good point though, Dave, have seen some horrendous vibration on some cars from just a small area touching the external panels. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted September 30, 2019 Administrators Report Share Posted September 30, 2019 Awsome work Pete rep points on there way 👍 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted October 2, 2019 Author Moderators Report Share Posted October 2, 2019 and just to finish off, dragged trailer out of the field its been sitting in for 18 months, bit of a jet wash and , oops, needs a repaint now 🙄 still, it's fastened to Elly ok ! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted October 2, 2019 Administrators Report Share Posted October 2, 2019 👍👍👍 looking good, Elly not the trailer 🤐😃 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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