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Honda Accord Coupe Central Locking Autolocking.


Lumpy

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Had a fun one today while playing with car, I left the keys in the accessory position with the doors closed and the doors locked themselves, fortunately I was at home and have a spare. I then ran the engine and the same happened, so that's a warning for me. Is this switchable? 

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Think this might also come back to the missing plug on your replacement actuator (picture below for reference) I followed the circuit diagrams with your car and compared it with later one and it appears the earlier models the return lock an unlock goes via the multiplexer (no difference there) but sends unlock signal and return signal is required (basically when the door is unlocked) both basically wired parallel and part of an anti-lockout designed into the system too. Although I would have thought the interior light door switch would override the auto lock like on my later coupe but on the earlier models it goes the control module (with no override) so effectively the remote or key sends a signal to the locking controller the controller sends power back to the actuator and without the plug connected (picture below)  it doesn't know the door is open and will assume you pressed the button on the fob by mistake and auto lock, hope that makes sense?

20181214-215553.jpg

In English, you need the correct part IMO

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makes absolute sense, I'm going to get a spare from Stu and try and rebuild the switch from my failed one into the aftermarket one. It doesn't do it when the key is out but does do it when the key is in, on acc, or the engine is running. It only happens after the ignition has been fully on or the engine running and then turned off and the drivers door opened and closed. As soon as the door is closed you hear the click and then a second later it all locks. If the keys are taken out it does not autolock. When the keys are in the ignition the spare fob doesn't work, nor the one in the ignition of course. Both work when the keys are out.

It gave me a lot of exercise this evening as it happened at the local ASDA when I was going to fill up, I forgot to take the keys out and bang! Damn, I couldn't raise the wife to bring the spares out so a 2 mile walk in training slippers and shorts resulted. I know, I know, fit the right part, and I will ☺️

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On 12/22/2018 at 2:06 PM, hughezee said:

Sounds like your new actuator could be the issue 😏 when you unlock the car does the does interior light come on before you open the door, also does opening the passenger door stop it auto locking?

when unlocked no, this is part of the function of the other plug. Both door unlock, and the autolocking only happens with doors closed and key in the ignition switch. With the key NOT in the ignition lock it just doesn't lock itself

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Seems like  something is wired incorrectly as you are getting the exact opposite of what should happen..can you check if the wiring plug to socket in the actuator is geared the same way round??? That is, the new actuator has not been factory modified !!!!

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From all of that description, it sounds like it's performing as it should IF there is an aftermarket alarm immobiliser fitted and wired/programmed to lock the doors either if there is no ignition or door action within a certain period or if the car is started.

I think i'd be looking behind the dash for unusual "black boxes" that are wired in to various different parts of the car and then doing an online search to see what the spec is of what you find.

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5 minutes ago, Lumpy said:

I programmed a new one I bought but a good fob will not operate the locking when the key is in the barrel.

Do your or did the indicators flash when locking the car, if not the system could be disabled as its linked to the alarm or the remote is the wrong one, jazz and civic fobs won't work on the accord setup unless you change the receiver? 

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On 12/30/2018 at 10:10 PM, hughezee said:

Do your or did the indicators flash when locking the car, if not the system could be disabled as its linked to the alarm or the remote is the wrong one, jazz and civic fobs won't work on the accord setup unless you change the receiver? 

Indicators flash quite happily when they should. Both remotes work well but neither will work when the key is in the ignition barrel. Car ONLY locks itself when the key is in the barrel. Alarm is happy, interior light doesn't come on like it did when the 3 pin plug is connected though, otherwise perfect, oh and turning the key doesn't unlock the passenger door of course at the moment.

Car does NOT lock itself unless the key is in the barrel, either off, pos 1 or pos 2. Engine running, open and close door and locks straightaway, pos 1 same, off same.

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I just assumed you were trying to program a new remote and it wasn't working with program procedure by putting the key in, that's how it sounded... 😏 Anyway when the key is in the barrel it activates the immobiliser system and is just waiting for the key to be turned to complete the process, so while the car still thinks the door hasn't been opened that system comes back into control when the engine is running and will auto lock. 

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On 12/22/2018 at 2:06 PM, hughezee said:

also does opening the passenger door stop it auto locking? 

1 hour ago, Lumpy said:

Also. Opening and closing passenger door has no effect.

This was just a suggestion before we established the need for the correct part for your particular vehicle, will be in touch soon about the replacement.

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12 hours ago, hughezee said:

This was just a suggestion before we established the need for the correct part for your particular vehicle, will be in touch soon about the replacement.

No worries. It's endearing. I know what's causing it and it's still better than not locking or unlocking on the remote.

 

At the time you posed the question I didn't know of course. I do now. I also know strapping grandkids in the back of a big coupe isn't the easiest thing in the world :-)

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  • The title was changed to Honda Accord Coupe Central Locking Autolocking.
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Where exactly is the central locking control unit? My Coop came with no remote fob, but feel pretty sure it did have one at some point in its history. Was thinking of splicing in a cheap remote unit off ebay - they've worked brilliantly over the years  in a couple of Toyotas I've had- or is it better to get a second hand remote fob? Can they be reset to match the vehicle?

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The central locking is linked with the cars alarm and if you lock the car with the key and the indicators don't flash 🤔 is good indicator this system might have been disabled at some point, copy key fobs are relatively inexpensive and easy to program, see the topic linked below.

Failing that I have fitted a few aftermarket solutions (much longer range) with boot release function assuming your boot actuator still works that is.😉 So if you're handy with basic auto electrics I would go the aftermarket route and using the key central locking triggers from the passenger door...

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