What Have You Done To Your Coupe Today

[Laird_Scooby]

For the pygmys to bounce off while you're driving?

[PTR200S]

On 10/12/2017 at 2:44 PM, Mangoman said:

The other day I was clearing out some stuff in the Attic and found this that I had bought for one of my previous cars and most probably found it didn't fit

 - well it fits the Coupe a treat! At least stuff now won't keep on rolling around on the Floor of the Boot!  

 - Chuffed.....  

Next on the agenda is a quick Oil and Filter change on the next decent day... (Which looks like Tuesday).

Got one in mine too, because the boot is VAST () it makes it very easy to stuff to roll around and this solves the problem... So does a cardboard box but this looks better!

I have mine on the hooks mid point of the boot so if something is too big to go in the net I can put it at the catch side of boot and it wont go further into boot because of the net, simples 

 

[PTR200S]

Well today I had to go into the engine bay for two jobs, 1 to look up battery size for Bill and 2 to check fluids etc as it is going for the mot on Monday.

Popped hood mech inside but then couldn't get secondary release open on front ...stuck fast, took some juggling to get it to move along with doses of ferrosil squirted in the general direction of a catch you cant actually see until the bonnet is open 

Took the opportunity to do all hinges, telescopic connections etc with white grease.... Then, as normal you find other things that need a squirt!!

All fluids checked and a very low windscreen washer level filled up, amazing how much wash fluid gets used in this weather!

Oil absolutely bang on and gearbox too, along with brake fluid etc.... need to do another box fluid change sometime soon as well.

I reckon the bonnet catch problem is due to salt off the roads... Everything has a coating of fine rust on  still, sorted now.

[Mangoman]

This is what I do too. Once before Winter, and then again after, also with White Lithium Grease Aerosol.

I also squirt into Key Reccesses and Door Handle Hinges as well as the Latches themselves. Never had an issue in winter yet.

An half hour well spent in my mind! 

[PTR200S]

21 minutes ago, Mangoman said:

 

I also squirt into Key Reccesses and Door Handle Hinges as well as the Latches themselves.

Quite right, went round and did the door hinges etc plus door stay pivot... Didn't do locks though, usually use ferrosil or similar.... 

Wasn't sure if grease down the keyhole was a good idea???  But presume you have no issues, do you use the key a lot then or is it just in case?

[Mangoman]

53 minutes ago, PTR200S said:

But presume you have no issues, do you use the key a lot then or is it just in case?

Hi Pete.

No, no issues that I can remember. And yes, I do it just in case and I use the Key a few times just to keep it in-use so to speak.

When I say door handle hinges I actually lift up the handle and spray inside. Not sure if it has any effect but I've always been able to open my doors in extremely cold weather.

[Laird_Scooby]

1 hour ago, PTR200S said:

Wasn't sure if grease down the keyhole was a good idea???

Not really, no, it can clog the tumblers. Silicone lube spray is much better and while it's handy, spray it liberally onto the rubber door, boot and bonnet seals and allow to soak in for a few minutes. Then gently wipe off the excess. Repeat on the panels where they contact the rubber seals.

If it happens to be glass that contacts the seals, don't use silicone lube but make sure the glass is clean using your normal glass cleaner. Wind down the windows and spray silicone lube (using the long tube) into the top of the rubber channel and allow to run down. Operate the windows up/down/up a few times to spread it about then wipe off the excess from the glass.

Not only does this prolong the life of the rubber seals but prevents the panels freezing against them. Similarly use silicone grease on the sunroof rubber seal once or twice a year - rub it in, leave a few minutes and wipe any excess. This keeps the sunroof seal in good condition, helps prevent leaks/sticking and stops it squeaking going down bumpy roads! 

[Mangoman]

Well, today I did a quick Engine Flush/Drain/Refill as well as fitted a new Filter - in fact I never just change the Oil, I alway replace the old filter with new. (And generally Flush with Wynns Engine Flush).

I was quite impressed that the Oil coming out was still reasionably translucent as it was pouring out, and still had a nice smooth feel.

I've fitted a Bosch (0 986 452 036) which is slightly longer than the one normally supplied and has a wider Seal Ring - this is the one recommended by Bosch for the V6 anyway.

This is the one you will get normally but is for the S2000.

As you will see the V6 one is longer.

Anyway, I refilled using the Gulf 5W40 Synthetic Oil. Definitely a different colour to the Petronas Oil. We'll see.

I also fitted the new Baffles, or "DB-Killers" and in my mind look much better! And as far as sound they don't sound that much noisier to be honest. It's not like the old set were whisper quiet anyway.  (Sorry the car hasn't been washed for a good few weeks!).

This was before, I know, not a direct comparison sorry.

 

Thanks.... Ciao.

[Laird_Scooby]

Those new baffles sound a bit nicer Bill - what does it go like now?

[Mangoman]

Thanks Dave. I think the better materials used have a lot to do with it. The original ones the piping was made out of somthing akin to Coke Can material! These are good grade S/S...  

I actually haven't driven it yet  but I'll let you know.

Ciao.

[Laird_Scooby]

A test drive after a modification is the law Bill, get out there and give it some beans!

[PTR200S]

This morning consisted of going over the whole car topside and underside looking for anything that might fail under mot conditions!

Whilst underneath I checked out the rear bumper mounts, they seem to be ok after the shunt but bit rusty so cleaned off and gave them a dose of Bilt H UC stuff

Went over the rest of the underside but very much rust free, squirted the brackets of everything that hangs and brake pipes too.

Pumped tyres up couple of pounds and that was it.

Just two cause for concerns and that is my headlight bulbs being non standard and handbrake comes up about 6 notches before its hard on...

As its first mot in my ownership I will have to wait and how emissions come up but it is running well.

[Mangoman]

The Headlight Bulbs should be Ok unless you fitted LED's, although there was no issue with my Sidelight LED's. 

I did fit 9005 (hb3) Bulbs in the Dipped as well as the Mains, but no probs.

All you can do is cross fingers and hope for the best I suppose......  When is it?

Good luck.

[PTR200S]

1 hour ago, Mangoman said:

The Headlight Bulbs should be Ok unless you fitted LED's, although there was no issue with my Sidelight LED's. 

I did fit 9005 (hb3) Bulbs in the Dipped as well as the Mains, but no probs.

All you can do is cross fingers and hope for the best I suppose......  When is it?

Good luck.

Its this Monday coming and I have same heads in as you if you recall the discussion earlier in the year re leds/ and the jap bulbs we put in !!

[Laird_Scooby]

As long as there is reserve travel on the handbrake and the headlights are bright enough with a good beam pattern you should be fine Pete!

[Mangoman]

6 hours ago, PTR200S said:

Its this Monday coming and I have same heads in as you if you recall the discussion earlier in the year re leds/ and the jap bulbs we put in !!

Sorry, forgot......

But my Handbrake had about 6-7 Clicks before hard on, and it passed without mention. 

I have since adjusted it to about 4-5 Clicks now. There is an adjustment nut for the Cables under the Armrest Cubby Insert.

[Laird_Scooby]

Many moons ago, running a C210 series Datsun Skyline, the MoT man tried telling me i had excessive movement on the handbrake at 7 clicks.

I then showed him the owners manual that stated 8-11 clicks was the correct setting - should have seen his face when he realised he had to do a lot of paperwork and pass it!

It's all horses for courses, many cars these days have a lot of clicks before they are actually "full on" so they tend to view it as the amount of reserve travel available on the handbrake lever.

If memory serves correctly, it's 3-5 clicks for most Hondas/Honda derived but there is quite a lift to the first click. Unlike the Datsun where the third or fourth click had the handbrake in a similar position to the first click on the Honda/Rover cars i've had.

[kag8]

After many weeks of driving in abysmal conditions including being the slowest person on the M1 north bound on one snowy Sunday (had my kid and nephew with me so no point risking anything lol) I finally treated the coupe to a thorough clean and polish. Abit pointless I know as its only gonna rain overnight most probably and get dirty in a few days again but it deserved it for being so dependable and reliable. Much like the video Stu posted it started with a half turn of the key while buried in snow! Awesome machines.

[PTR200S]

On 16/12/2017 at 8:30 PM, Mangoman said:

Sorry, forgot......

But my Handbrake had about 6-7 Clicks before hard on, and it passed without mention. 

I have since adjusted it to about 4-5 Clicks now. There is an adjustment nut for the Cables under the Armrest Cubby Insert.

Forgot to update this after test, sorry, am I bad?

Handbrake passed fine no probs and no mention of it and the "Bill bulbs" passed too. ! 

Still can't get over how inexpensive those bulbs were , Bill and yet how much they improve the light output.

Bargain of this year I reckon, thank you , Bill, for sharing 

[PTR200S]

Today was a none event day as far Christmas / New Year hols are concerned so spent some time outside playing Coupe

The sun was out with very little wind so got the overalls out and the buckets !

Apart from a wash and brush up and a good desalting ( fekin councils   ) I thought I should do my last , hopefully, gearbox part oil change.

With 2.5 litres of the appropriate Valvoline atf in hand I ran car up the ramps, cracked the drain plug and drained out as much as possible. 

The drain plug had, not much but nonetheless, some fine black silth stuck to it. The drained atf is marginally darker than new so I have dropped some into a clean glass jar and will leave it for a few days to settle out, if at all, just to make sure all is well.

Having done a previous change of oil I presumed the filler cap, 17mm, would have opened easily,  naw, not a bit of it, 2 foot breaker bar required!!! 

Decided to put in 1.75 litres then drop car off ramps and check the level.. ran it in and out of the gears..checked again and put another 0.2 litres in to level...

Last time  i did it by volume and ended up slightly over filling it so hopefully it should be good now, I will check again when I get back from New Years day meet tomorrow.

Time to do this time around? Just half an hour 

Got nothing to do? Go and do a change, you know it makes sense  and then Stu can't shout at you either 

[Laird_Scooby]

Sounds like a productive day Pete! Trouble is, now you've done the last part-change for a while, you now have the choice, wait 2 years/24k miles and do another 3 in quick succession or do one a year to maintain it.

Either way it's going to be a New Years Eve job from now on to preserve the anniversary!

[Laird_Scooby]

As for me, things have been quiet on the Coupé front until recently when it decided it no longer liked its N/S/F wheel bearing any more and started hurting it. The bearing responded by howling like a banshee!

Knowing they can be right pigs to remove and refit, i got another knuckle (the strange name of the part that holds the wheel bearing) and before anything else, electrolytically derusted it.

That was about a month ago. Been pretty busy with various things recently so just been doing a bit here and there. A couple of weeks back, i gave the ball joint (well known for going on the 800) a couple of swift taps with the lump hammer and it landed on my hoof, so that's out and yesterday using a deep socket, long bolt, old alternator pulley and the vice, pulled the bearing out.

Now i just have to remove the inner part of the outer race of the wheel bearing from the actual hub.

Tried a couple of ideas today but no joy so thinking cap back on!

[PTR200S]

10 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said:

 

Now i just have to remove the inner part of the outer race of the wheel bearing from the actual hub.

Tried a couple of ideas today but no joy so thinking cap back on!

This seems like a job for today! , Shift the hangover, no problem !........ And you need a bigger hammer.....

[Laird_Scooby]

6 hours ago, PTR200S said:

And you need a bigger hammer.....

A hammer (of any size) isn't the answer Pete. I'll try and get a photo later, it's virtually impossible to get "behind" the race to give it a good thumping.

I do have a theory though that the circlip from the ball joint will fit in the groove in the inner race and provide something for a standard 2-legged puller to grip on. If so i should be home and dry - i hope!

As for the hangover, i didn't have a drink last night so not a problem!

[PTR200S]

On 1/1/2018 at 1:20 PM, Laird_Scooby said:

I do have a theory though that the circlip from the ball joint will fit in the groove in the inner race and provide something for a standard 2-legged puller to grip on. If so i should be home and dry - i hope!

Any progress, Dave, on the job?

Been three days now  !!!