Jump to content
Subscriptions & Donations ×

Accord Coupe Electric Window Issue *REGULATOR"


AhsyV6

Recommended Posts

  • Founding Member

Hello all, 

i have suddenly encountered a repetitive metallic  clunking noise when I wind my drivers side window fully. This occurs when it is fully closed and it sounds like something inside is slipping. 

Look forward to your answers

Ahsanul 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

It sounds as if the regulators gears are worn from your description. However i'm not sure what sort of regulator (cable or geared) you have in your car, i'm sure Stu will know and probably be able to pin the noise down to something specific.

If it is the regulator like i'm guessing, he probably has a spare one on Project Break so hopefully your window won't be noisy for too long!

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

Spot on Dave ;) the window regulators are a common age related niggle, Project Black had clunky window so obviously some wear on the mechanism ^_^ but since cleaning the channels with tooth brush and thoroughly lubing with grease and silicon it operates perfectly no noises.

So hopefully you can do the same to yours before it fails completely and I do have a spare on Project Break ;)

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Founding Member

Thanks for the response guys,

i was at Heathrow this afternoon and put my window down to take a ticket as I entered the car park and then there was an almighty crunch and bang and my window sounded as it had shattered in side the door! 

Had to drive back home with the widow down. I took the door panel off and all I can describe is that the window was no longer in the guides on either side and It had fallen to the bottom of the door. The motor still sounds as if it still works. I'm not 100% what I was looking and my main objective was to pull up the window and secure it in place which I did and then I made some metal hooks from wire hangers to hold the window in place. I just looked up how to change the regulator on you tube and it looks pretty straight forward that's if it is the regulator. 

Too dark and even colder now and can't be bothered to continue

Any further thoughts or ideas?

thanks 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

Very likely the regulator has gone and I would recommend just getting a new one, we can supply a new one OEM one for £75.00 Honda wants £150 p/n: 72211S82A01 the passenger side appears cheaper for reference :huh: but you might find china copy parts for less on eBay or Amazon ;)

B__5300.jpg.08e7537eccc42d7a8fb92fe17b7f

1  35118SX0G00 LABEL, IMMOBILIZER  £6.26
2  39885SL0G00 LABEL, SECURITY CAUTION  £7.02
3  72211S82A01 REGULATOR, R. FR. DOOR POWER  £150.02
4  72212S82A01 SPRING, SPIRAL  £57.62
5  72215S82E01 MOTOR ASSY., R. FR. WINDOW  £286.60
6  72230S82A01 SASH, R. FR. DOOR FR. LOWER  £15.03
7  72231S82A02 SASH, R. FR. DOOR CENTER LOWER  £9.73
8  72235S82G02 RUNCHANNEL, R. FR. DOOR  £137.82
9  72237S84G01 CLIP, FR. DOOR GLASS GUIDE  £7.31
10  72255S82E01 MOTOR ASSY., L. FR. WINDOW  £268.64
11  72270S82A01 SASH, L. FR. DOOR FR. LOWER  £15.03
12  72271S82A02 SASH, L. FR. DOOR CENTER LOWER  £9.73
13  72275S82G02 RUNCHANNEL, L. FR. DOOR  £137.82
14  73300S82E01 GLASS ASSY., R. FR. DOOR (GREEN)(AP TECH)  £185.27
15  73350S82E01 GLASS ASSY., L. FR. DOOR (GREEN)(AP TECH)  £185.27
16  90011896000 BOLT, FLANGE, 6X8  £2.56
17  90120S82A01 BOLT  £3.65
18  90126SS0000 BOLT-WASHER, 6X16  £3.28
19  91540SV4003 CLIP, HARNESS BAND (NATURAL) (145.2MM)  £5.65
20  91555SM4003 CLIP, COUPLER (RED)  £2.84
21  9405005080 NUT, FLANGE, 5MM  £0.46
22  957010601008 BOLT, FLANGE, 6X10  £1.73
23  72251S82A01 REGULATOR, L. FR. DOOR POWER  £77.51
24  72239S82A01 RUNCHANNEL, FR. DOOR LOWER  £110.99

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Founding Member

Thanks Stu.

The update now is that I have taken the regulator out and the motor was not attached to the mechanism. It looked like the the spring and cog (one side looks like winds the mechanism with the spring attached to the other side of it) had come/broken off and was lying there. The cog teeth are slightly worn and slightly bent but I think I can still get it to fit in to the mechanism with a bit of filing. I connected the electric window switch and the motor works but just had one question....when I pull up the switch for one touch full closure the motor wirrs continuously, is this normal? 
 
I wanted to also know if the mechanism is repairable and can I buy the cog separately? 
 
Am I missing something and thinking it can be repaired when actually it can't? 
 
Thanks 
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

The motor will run continuously on the one-shot because the electronics that control it aren't sensing a fully closed (or open) window. If the spring has come off and the motor too, i doubt you will be able to fix it yourself, even if it's possible to bolt the motor back on.

You know how heavy the window was when it came out of the runners? Well the spring is there to balance things so the window goes up and down at the same speed. As such it will need a lot of tension to pre-load it and you won't get that by hand.

 

Probably worth saving the motor as a spare but it sounds very like the regulator itself is scrap. :(

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Founding Member

That all makes sense and thanks for the clear explanation of how it works. This really helps me visualise what you've said and also increase my knowledge.

Looks like I'll be ordering a new one.. I've found new aftermarket ones in the USA for the equivalent £40-£45 inclusive of shipping but will take 2 weeks or so to reach me. Stu is the £75 option you mentioned tfor supply and delivery? 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

I would be getting one from the manufacturer in the USA so 14 days before you get it and £75.00 is all in with a small contribution to the site included.. I will be stocking them for our Site store soon so it will be quicker delivery in future ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Founding Member

I've decided to order both sides from the US as it was only another £23 for the second one. Based on the fact that I have no intention on selling my coupe I thought it made sense to have a backup for the other side just in case. 

Thanks again

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Founding Member

So I received the window regulators within 6 days and for £65......impressive service and at a bargain price......BUT what I did not account for is that the plug for the motor on the US drivers side regulator should be on the UK drivers side. As this is a larger plug as it controls both windows.

Is this an easy swap or is it a cut and swap. The motors cannot be swapped as they are side specific.

I have attached some pics of the new regulators. The first 2 are of the wiring that should be on the drivers side(UK) but of course is connected to the regulator for the passenger side(UK). You will see that there are returning wires that go back in to the regulator.

As always I look forward to the response

 

image.png

image.png

image.png

image.png

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Looking at thw wiring there Ahsy, it' looks suspiciously like the drivers window has the "one-shot" operation on it but the passenger side doesn't - would that be right? If so i can see what needs to be done but it's a bit tricky to explain - basically it involves transplanting the (LH) "drivers" motor controls from the LH motor onto the "passenger" (RH) motor and vice versa. I had to do similar with a complete door loom for a Pugrot 406 about 20 years back - the loom for the LH door was ordered and they sent through (from France) a LH drive door loom, in other words a drivers door loom, not a UK passenger door loom.

 

In some ways this will be easier, in others harder as it is to do with the motor control. There could be other variables such as does the drivers window motor have a tacho-generator on it or some other means of indexing or is it a resistive set-up so that a voltage is developed across a coil of wire when the window reaches the end of its travel and the current drawn increases because of the resistance. Depending on this will depend how easy it is to transfer the control side of things from one motor to another.

 

Of course the ultimate solution would be to send it back free of charge and tell them they supplied the motors for a LHD and yours is RHD so can they send the correct ones please? :P It's doubtful whether that is even possible (free return almost certainly isn't!) and there's a big chance that as soon as they realise you need a RHD unit the price would go up considerably so you're kind of stuck between a rock and hard place.

 

Let me give it some more thought and see if i can come up with anything. :D

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

You're welcome Ahsy - it's entirely possible when you look at the motors "in the flesh" as it were you'll see an easy way of swapping the control side of things from left to right. Just be careful when you do not to reverse the polarity on the motors else the windows will go down when you want them up and vice versa.

I suspect the motors both rotate in the same direction and then when the pinion/worm on the end of the motor engages with the gearwheel inside the winder gearbox, the fact that the output shaft comes out on the left for the left hand window and the right on the right hand window gives the correct rotation.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Administrators

Sorry for the delay chaps, I have been preparing for the mini meet tomorrow ;)

The extra wires are just for the auto window function and since you ordered one for a drivers LHD vehicle the extra wires are on the wrong side, so you could either use your old motor on the new regulator or just remove the pins from the plugs and swap them over and do without your auto down function m8y  -_-

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Moderators

Stu's idea is good and the one i thought of suggesting but you really want to keep the one shot on the drivers window i would think, henc my suggestion of swapping the control wiring. Alternatively like Stu also suggested, you could fit your original motors on the new regulators. Be careful though as if there is any wear on the pinion that drives the regulator quadrant (the gear on the end of the motor that engages with the regulator mech) this could cause problems later. If there is wear, it might be an idea to pack the motor out using a washer or two on each bolt so the pinion engages on an unworn part.

  • Like 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...