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Which Engine Oil 1994-2000 RA Honda Shuttle/ Odyssey 2.2 2.3i


hughezee

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As a follow up to past discussions regarding engine oil and the problems with Honda 0W20 p/n: 08232P99K4LHE when used in older engines, which results in oil leaks, high oil consumption and excessive valve train wear and engine noise.

So I have illustrated a few of the most common oils used by myself or recommended by other members, so if you are looking for just a standard oil I would recommend Mobil Super 2000 10W40 or Castrol GTX 10W40 (not Magnatec or Edge). Owners looking for improved fuel economy and performance I would strongly recommend Smith and Allans Ultra 10w-30 Engine Motor Oil.๐Ÿ‘ย  (no other brand of 10W30)

castrol.jpg

mobil.jpg

Ultra 10W-30 5LT.jpg

PLEASE NOTE: the information within this topic has been kindly contributed by one of our experienced members and has been extensively researched and found to be correct by independent testing or external resources.

Regards SITE DEVELOPMENT.

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The differences in general always seem to be the engine is a noisier from cold and it being an auto its a little hesitant to change gear and the MPG suffers. I have already done so much research and even Honda recommend a 10W30 in most engines. Also, I have switched plenty of people over to this grade or this SA oil and the majority notice an improvement, one had 8mpg increase but that was attributed by a sluggish autobox which had fresh fluid as well.

I know you're driving a 5-speed manual so it's probably going to be harder to spot any improvement other than the engine running smoother and maybe a better throttle response.

In regards to the oil that I actually used <_< hmmm I would much rather tell you what 10w40's I will continue to use in the future and that's the tried tested an trusted Castrol GTX 10W40 ;)

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A-ha, good old Castrol GTX:lol:. But seriously........

Hmm............. I don't dispute that lots of personal experience might well have concluded that 10W30 is better.ย  I trust your judgement on this.ย  However, I remain baffled about why it might be better than 10W40.ย 

In theory, 10W30 and 10W40 would have the same viscosity when cold, so noisier when cold is baffling.ย  Where you comparing 10W30 and 10W40 from the same manufacturer, or could it have been a good 10W30 against an inferior 10W40?

And how would engine oil cause any hesitancy to change gear?

I can understand the improvement in MPG because 10W30 would be thinner than 10W40 when hot (I think).ย 

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Totally understand as to why your baffled m8y, I have studied allot on the subject involving hundreds of cars, the thing to note this particular 10w30 just circulates faster from cold than 10w40 and most 10w30 has the same viscosity as fully synthetic 0w30 at normal operating temperate and the 0w30 well known for cold start protection but comparing specifications of oil some 5w30 are actually thinner than 0w30.ย  30's 20's graded oil are generally noted for there low friction ability's thus promotnthing fuel economy ect...

However not all oils are created equal, so not every 10w40 has the same multi grade capability's as another 10w40 e,g different synthetic content mix additive packs, even Castrol has 2 types of 10w40 GTX :lol:

Engine-Oil-for-VTEC-Engines.thumb.png.65

I could explain the various codes on the bottles and talk all day about itย :rolleyes: In the end I just look for the nearest spec to the Honda VTEC LEV engine oil and you can't go wrong :)

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I'll throw in my two penn'orth for what it will be worth about the hesitancy when cold, economy etc on using the wrong grade oil - it may or may not be relevant but the principles should hold true.

First i'd best point out to the newer members that the cars i run have the C27 engine (basically the same as the NSX engine but 10% smaller and without the VTEC but still lively enough :lol: ) which is slightly different to the J30 in the Accord V6 and for which a 10W40 mineral or semi-synthetic is specified. I always use ECPs Triple QX 10W40 Semi in all my engines, even the straight-6 tractor engine in the Jeep!

I know there's one or two manual drivers out there but for the purpose of this, i'm going to assume you drive an auto. When it's due (overdue even!) a service and isn't performing as well as it should, the gearbox tends to hold on to the gears as it goes up through the box. This is because in simple terms it senses the power available Vs road speed, throttle opening etc.It also means when accelerating hard, the engine will be screaming away at 5400rpm and slowly climibing up instead of whizzing round to 6300rpm like usual in kickdown.

If a thicker than average oil has been used (despite being rated 10W40), the hydraulic tappets/lifters that operate the valves on mine don't open and close the valves so easily as they should. This means the engine isn't producing the power it should so the gearbox senses this and so on.

Translate this into cold engine running. The engine management (PGM-Fi) system is expecting the engine to produce a certain amount of power from the air/fuel mix it is getting and it isn't. Because it is set up to run as economically as possible, it decides to back off a bit because it thinks the engine needs less fuel. Result? Hesitancy. It then self corrects and sometimes a surge is experienced.

Now imagine an oil and filter change has been done, possibly with a flush to remove the built up gum, varnish etc that are by-products of the oil getting hot and a decent oil is installed. The lifters can now operate the valves properly which means the engine breathes better resulting in more power for the same throttle opening, smoother running and better economy due to improved efficiency.

I'm not 100% sure how the different oils would effect the VTEC engines though. However, i can see how they work, understand how they work and why they produce mcuh more power for the engine size. This brings me to the probable reason the oil choice will effect their running. If the wrong oil is used, i suspect the mechanisms that alter the valve timing tend to be sluggish due to incorrect oil (too thick or maybe even too thin) and as such, won't perform how they should, This gives the same end result as the valves not opening in my basic C27 engine, or even the straight -6, 50 year old design engine in my Jeep.

ย 

Hopefully that's useful to someone and makes sense!

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Thanks Stu - forgot to say that on a manual, because the driver cahnges gear the only obvious symptoms of wrong oil would be using more fuel and not quite as nippy as it should be. Again the hesitancy would be felt more but a lot of people might put that down simply to the engine being cold and "coughing" which in a way it is but by doing that is in fact displaying a symptom that needs checking. ;):D

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  • The title was changed to Which Engine Oil 1994-2000 RA Honda Shuttle/ Odyssey 2.2 2.3i
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9 hours ago, hughezee said:

I tried switching oil on the oddy recently, ran smooth and quiet but epic failure in the fuel economy, switched back to Smith & Allan oil and all is well again, don't know why bother. ๐Ÿ™„

I have the same conversation with people with older vehicles who think their engine is better run on " synthetic racing oil" !!!!!

Why ??????

That engine, as I point out, in many cases was designed and built to run on mineral oil, maybe semi synthetic for some later engines in a particular series so stop running it on weasel pi$$ย  0-20 fully synthetic........when they do, it runs quieter, smoother and with minimal detriment to fuel consumption.ย 

The Honda dealers all seem to have forced the zero / twenty down ALL Honda they deal with as a mate with a 2007 civic can testify....gets great fuel economy (he says but can't really prove it as its a town car ) but runs like a bag of sh1t.....told him to do it himself instead !!!!!!

I have no idea about newer engines, I just don't get involved !! I presume their design with tighter tolerances were built for the weasel stuff.

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