HondaDreamerCG Posted August 11, 2018 Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 Hi honda heads , the first cooler morning of the summer , i took a small one minute drive to the garage to fill up on fuel , the moment i filled it and jumped back into drive away the car would not start !? the lights were all ok and battery seemed ok , when i turn the key there is a tick , thats it ...nothing else !??? is it a possible fuse ?? Please Help urgently if you can , my car is at the garage ..Thnakyou 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted August 11, 2018 Moderators Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 When you say *tick* ? Do you mean CLICK ? As you turn the key on starter motor position? If so, sounds like the battery is flat...have you not used it much recently? One start up and a short drive to fill up could have just used up the last gasp on the battery. It could still give you lights etc but under load there is not enough charge to turn starter, the tick maybe the soloenoid clicking. Do you have a mutimeter? Check voltage off battery first before you start tearing into the electrics ! ? Anything less than 12.6v and I would be starting at that point, get someone to jump it for you . 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HondaDreamerCG Posted August 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 yes i do very short journeys and the heated seats must have zapped the last of the battery , im getting jump leads now to see if its the battery ot start motor! , all lights are normal , just the key in start position it makes one tick or click and thats it 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted August 11, 2018 Moderators Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 Yep, sounds like battery.. If you get it going and you are going a few miles, at least 20 it will put enough charge in to start it once again... probably ? Best solution is to get it home and get battery on a decent recovery charger, that will tell you if you need a new battery or not. Get a full 24hrs on charge or more if really flat and see if it is ok. If you only do small runs I would get a trickle charger and keep it on that when the car is not in use... By the way the heated seats really do tax the battery !!!!! 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HondaDreamerCG Posted August 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 Got some jump leads , and it started first time !!! strange as that sounds ! Rightly as you say , i only do 2-3 mins journeys a day to work ... so i toook it a for a long and hard drive today being sure to open her up some and she purrs like a big pussy cat with no probs ! the battery must not be getting recharged with the small journeys ... Will be mindful of using the heated seats from now on Thankyou for your immediate response and helpful info PTR200S 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted August 11, 2018 Moderators Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 Ok, that's good. !!! Like I said though, you need to charge that battery fully as even a good drive won't get it back to a proper charged state. If can do without car for 24 hrs get a proper battery charger on the job . 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted August 11, 2018 Administrators Report Share Posted August 11, 2018 1 hour ago, HondaDreamerCG said: Thankyou for your immediate response and helpful info PTR200S I second that thanks Pete ? 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted August 15, 2018 Moderators Report Share Posted August 15, 2018 On 8/11/2018 at 6:00 PM, PTR200S said: If can do without car for 24 hrs get a proper battery charger on the job . Even better! Would also pay to check the alternator drive belt too! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pencil Posted October 4, 2023 Report Share Posted October 4, 2023 Hello all. Long time since I posted, still have the year 2000 Accord Coupe 2 litre. Still a lovely car . Wifey is, apparently, leaving the picture shortly so I'm trying to make sure I get to keep the Honda. In any case, I've had intermittent starting issues and it seems to be related to the weather. When it's warm/dry there's no problem - it does seem to happen in cold/damp weather. The engine turns over but won't fire. At first I thought it was the immobiliser, but it isn't. I've checked the fuel pump relay and it's not that either. The battery is fine. My thoughts are, given the apparent weather-related nonsense, that something in the ignition system is getting wet or not conducting properly in damp conditions. Any ideas? As I'm not living at "home" at present (see earlier comment about wife malfunction) I haven't had the car or my tools on hand to try to trace with a multimeter. Upshot is that it sometimes doesn't start, and as soon-to-be-ex wifey is using it currently that means she borrows my FTO to ferry the kids around. Now she's threatening to sell it because it's "broken" - so I'd like to get on and fix it if possible. Any advice (marital or automotive) gratefully received. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted October 5, 2023 Administrators Report Share Posted October 5, 2023 Sorry to hear of your recent troubles with your coupe, it could be any number of things such as spark plugs, cca issue with the battery, ignition switch, dizzy and rotor. Think starting with the basics, check for spark or fuel and follow your way back to the offending article. 🤞 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pencil Posted October 6, 2023 Report Share Posted October 6, 2023 Thanks Hughezee... yes could be any number of things. Hunch says it's damp in the dizzy, or coil pack being a git. If I can get my hands on it for a day or so I'll see what I can find. As you say, start with the basics and trace it back 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted November 22, 2023 Moderators Report Share Posted November 22, 2023 On 10/4/2023 at 3:18 PM, Pencil said: Any advice (marital or automotive) gratefully received. Get the Honda and FTO "repatriated" to somewhere safe and tell wifey you're blaming her for "breaking it" - it's not hers to sell so if she does, that is theft and/or fraud. Even if that means joining the RAC and pushing the Honda 1/4 mile down the road! Like Stu says, check for a spark first and work back from there. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pencil Posted November 23, 2023 Report Share Posted November 23, 2023 Thanks Laird Scooby. I now have the Top Gun music playing in my head.... Finally got to look at it last weekend, lots of corrosion on the contacts inside the dizzy cap and on the rotor, no or very weak spark on all cylinders except one. There's a broken bolt too, so the cap isn't held on properly - so explains moisture getting in. Cleaned actual chunks of corrosion off the contacts - still no joy starting, but then I've removed a good few mm from the workings which is bound to have an effect. Probably could have got away with a new cap and rotor (the coil seemed OK), but found a new replacement dizzy for not a whole lot more, so ordered that. New HT leads and plugs too for good measure. Definitely getting fuel and it's not the immobiliser, so hopefully this fixes it. Have reached an agreement with Whatserface, I'll be keeping both the FTO and the Honda (which are the most important things), and a 50% share of both children. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted November 23, 2023 Moderators Report Share Posted November 23, 2023 1 hour ago, Pencil said: a 50% share of both children. Which half are you getting? The expensive half or the bit that doesn't eat anything? Whatever, it's all good if you can come to an arrangement, makes life much easier! 1 hour ago, Pencil said: There's a broken bolt too, so the cap isn't held on properly - so explains moisture getting in. Hmmm, had something similar on one of my Rovers (827 so essentially a KA1-4 Legend) where the "O" ring seal between the cap and dizzy body had perished and split. Condensation all over the inside of the cap so damp starting was a problem. In free air, 25kV will jump ~1/2" so losing a small chunk of the HT contacts in the cap won't make a lot of difference - also change the rotor arm as often they can go porous and track straight to earth via the shaft. 1 hour ago, Pencil said: I now have the Top Gun music playing in my head.... It's more melodious (and not as loud as pairs of F-15s taking off in rapid succession or worse still, F-35s - heavier and slightly more powerful they need to use more power to get airborne so make a lot more noise! As the crow (or F-15) flies, i'm literally about half a mile (at the most!) from one end of the runway so it can get a bit noisy here! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pencil Posted November 23, 2023 Report Share Posted November 23, 2023 Hopefully it's all good. I know a new dizzy is an extravagance, but time for extended tinkering is at a premium these days... That sounds awesome re the planes. My current Batchelor Pad is right on the beach so I mostly get to see container ships going past. Somewhat interesting, but quiet. The occasional Chinook if I'm lucky... Yeah we're actually managing to be quite sensible about the whole marital dissociation thing, so far... Thanks for your help 🙂 Tim 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pencil Posted November 27, 2023 Report Share Posted November 27, 2023 Glad to report that replacing the dizzy solved it. Started on the first turn of the key. So that's nice I have a surging-on-idle issue which I believe to be unrelated, so best start a new thread for that I expect. Hoping it's just a filthy throttle body. Interestingly on removing the old one, the "keys" on the bearing where it connects to the engine had almost completely worn away. Added to the badly seated cap, it's a wonder it worked at all. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted November 27, 2023 Moderators Report Share Posted November 27, 2023 36 minutes ago, Pencil said: I have a surging-on-idle issue which I believe to be unrelated First check is coolant level, if it's low then it can cause this as the sensors are quite high up - also some models (not sure on the J30) have a temperature controlled fast idle (a bit like an automatic choke) that can cause the same symptom, the ECU sees the idle as too high so winds the EICV back to reduce the idle but it doesn't so the ECU opens the EICV again and this goes on a rinse and repeat causing the surge. Alternatively, cleaning the throttle body and EICV can often cure it but check the coolant level first. 39 minutes ago, Pencil said: Interestingly on removing the old one, the "keys" on the bearing where it connects to the engine had almost completely worn away. Looking at your pic it seems the drive dogs have failed through metal fatigue! Good shout replacing the dizzy, solved more problems than just one! It's amazing it even ran at all like that TBH. Most of us on here use postimages and the "Direct Link" for each image then paste that link where you want the pic in your post. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted November 27, 2023 Administrators Report Share Posted November 27, 2023 Great to hear you've got the issue sorted, did you manage to source a replacement distributor assembly? Also, the idle surging is very likely because the IAC valve is stuck or needs cleaning. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pencil Posted November 27, 2023 Report Share Posted November 27, 2023 Yes got the new dizzy off ebay. It was not massively more expensive than a used one, nor than a new cap and rotor. As it turns out with the drive dogs, glad I went that route. I've fixed idling problems on my FTO multiple times, it's always the IACV on that so I expect it to be similar here. I'll investigate further when I next get the chance... did a quick check of fluids yesterday as it happens, coolant is halfway between the min-max lines on the overflow so I left it alone. FYI it's an F20B7 not a J30. Thanks for your help chaps 🙂 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted November 27, 2023 Moderators Report Share Posted November 27, 2023 The IACV is what i referred to as the EICV - more used to Rover terminology but it's the same animal. Most on here have the J30 V6 so i kind of assumed you did too, silly me but not properly awake yet! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pencil Posted November 27, 2023 Report Share Posted November 27, 2023 It goes by many names. In the FTO community we usually just call it the stepper motor (or "that git") I'd love the V6 but rather thirsty for me as a daily... the 2-litre ticks all the boxes of being reliable, economical enough and interesting enough. It's not exactly fast, but gets around fine and it's a lovely car 🙂 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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