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Help!!! Sensor Needed Please!


Laird_Scooby

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Bit of a long shot this one, i'm after a PFKL554505 in Honda-speak or NSC10001/NSC10007 in Rover-speak which is the Crankshaft Position Sensor for a C27 engine :

 

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It's item #17 in the pic above and blots on under/behind the front camshaft pulley. I know, i know, it's a Crankshaft Position Sensor and it's fitted to the front Camshaft! :blink::rolleyes::huh: I didn't build the engine though so i take no responsibility for it's name! :lol:

 

They're NLA from Rover/Rimmers, allbrit.de, Lings Honda etc so hoping someone has a good working one lurking in their shed/garage/cave please?

 

Willing to pay a sensible price obviously - thanks in advance!

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Oh know buddy :o just for ref the Lings part numbers are exactly that buddy not Honda, anyway the Honda number is: 37840PL2026 and a whopping 200 squid via Honda UK anyway I can get a after market one for £115 or an Intermotor unit for £170 all new ones though :mellow:

There's one on Amazon:  http://www.amazon.com/Genuine-37840PL2026-Engine-Crankshaft-Position/dp/B0072VZQMC

Hope this helps buddy

 

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Oh yes matey! Seems intermittent at the moment, sometimes will run a while before doing anything, other times as soon as i move off. Thanks for the heads up on the Lings part numbers and the correct number, i did wonder if they were doing something like that but in all honesty i thought Honda had done Rovers favourite trick and simply superceded the part number.

 

I've got a few little tricks to try first before completely condemning it, there are 3 round multiplugs on the drivers side inner wing that i've had trouble with before (several years ago though) that caused a few strange faults at the time. Also it's possible it's just got dirty while being laid up a while.

As such, i'm going to do the "silly bits" first then decide what course of action i'm going to take. Maybe a new one (aftermarket, £115 jobby) will be the way to go. I found a few on fleabay (with the correct part number now :D ) and the cheapest was about the same price but obviously has a lead time coming from the USA.

In all honesty i'd rather put the business your way so i'll probably end up going for the cheaper aftermarket job.

Caught between a rock and hard place now - the MoT is due on the coupe in just over a week and that needs some repairs (bumper etc) before i can even submit it. It should go straight through unless there's something i've missed but if it doesn't then it leaves me with a slightly sick Jeep to use - waiting on a new 'stat housing to (hopefully) cure the overcooling problem which is making it only semi-drivable on LPG and horrendous on petrol.

I'd rather not rush the repairs on the coupe just for the sake of having it mobile but at the same time can't be without transport.

 

To paraphrase a famous saying - cars, cars, everywhere! but not a one to drive! :angry:

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leaves me with a slightly sick Jeep to use - waiting on a new 'stat housing to (hopefully) cure the overcooling problem which is making it only semi-drivable on LPG and horrendous on petrol.

I'd rather not rush the repairs on the coupe just for the sake of having it mobile but at the same time can't be without transport.

 

To paraphrase a famous saying - cars, cars, everywhere! but not a one to drive! :angry:

My father had a 3.5 Litre Rover SD1 Vandenplaz and I recall him taking it to the dealer as it had a problem with what the mechanic called "super cooling". I always wondered about this. Does the excessive cooling result in a lumpy running and making the car thirsty, or does it have more serious repercussions, or both?

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Both Rich - particularly in the V8s case. It generally caused flat spots, hesitation, lumpy running, excessive thirst, not burning off the contaminants in the engine oil (on the V8 that could be fatal to the camshaft/hydraulic lifters and the oil seals) which generally caused mayo in the rocker covers and blocked the breathers (resulting in excess oil pressure which blew the seals and caused even more thirst) and would generally make the V8 embarassingly gutless.

Not quite so serious on the Jeep thankfully. Still bad enough on the thirst/gutless side and the LPG is near on unusable at the moment with the colder weather. Warmer days and taking it gently it's still ok but the heater output is like using a candle to cook a 15lb turkey. The LPG vapouriser is plumbed in parallel with the heater so as you can imagine it's not doing a very good job of vapourising the gas.

Thankfully today the new 'stat housing landed. Sadly there was only about an hour of daylight left and thanks to some old biddy whacking me with her Vauxhall Corsa last week, i've been even less mobile today than usual - think i have internal bruising that's only just coming out. Either way it's painful with a capital "F" and makes walking even more difficult than normal.

Hoping tomorrow i'll be better so i'll venture out with a bucket (to catch the coolant) and the tools to whip the 'stat housing off including swapping the temp sender unit and with luck i should have it swapped fairly quick. Then will be the acid test to see if the Jeep warms up as it should. If so then i will at least have that to tool around in.

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I'm very sorry to hear about your encounter with the Vauxhall Corsa, and hope your walking is easier very soon. Thanks for your explanation. Interestingly the same mechanic dropped a spanner in the engine bay and announced he would get another one from his tool chest. He told my father the dropped spanner would "fall out" onto the road at some point whilst driving. This was the main Bolebridge Rover dealer in Tamworth. Specialists eh ;)

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Thanks Rich, can't say too much more about it just now.

The SD1 had an appetite for spanners. Somehow (can't quite remember how now) it was set up so the bodywork knocked the spanner out of your hand and straight into a hole in the chassis rail. Slowly but surely the spanner would work it's way through the chassis and fall out of another strategically placed hole in the underside of the chassis.

Once it dropped into the chassis it was impossible to retrieve so the only course of action was to get another spanner. Lost count of the number of spanners i lost that way!

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Ahh, that makes sense then :D my father and I still find it highly amusing :D

Hmm, i can see why but i can also say i didn't when i lost a brand new SnapOn spanner in an SD1 chassis rail! Was a very young pup at the time and building my tool kit up so besides the financial loss (about 3 hours pay at the time!) i was snookered for ages until i could get another spanner! Bought a set of cheapies to tide me over and made sure i didn't use a SnapOn spanner in the same area under the bonnet after!

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Sadly not - i did get there but lost a lot of tools about 12 years ago during an illegal eviction. Managed to keep some that were in my "go to first" box which i managed to rescue at first but lost a lot of the rest.

A rough guesstimate at the time was between £5-6k of tools that went AWOL - wasn't a happy bunny!

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Pretty much Geoff in as much as they are extremely well made (you can actually feel the difference) to tighter tolerances and stronger metal so the spanner jaws don't splay out when you find a tight nut and similar with other tools. They're also guaranteed for life.

 

That said the likes of Facom, Mac and similar also make high quality tools guaranteed for life.

Then again Silverline also guarantee their tools for life, as do Hilka and they're a lot cheaper. You pays your money and takes your choice really. :D

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  • 3 years later...
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Hi Stuart am in the market for the crankshaft position sensors for the Legend 4 door. Also do you have a source of quality fuel pump relays for the Mk1 - not the ebay items from the far east.

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