KingK0ng

I remember seeing this somewhere few years ago, i'll try to see if i can found something.

If i'm not mistaken amayama is runned by some russians, but don't quote me on that. If so and due to the recent events plus the latest Japanese and Russian diplomatic deterioration the company may facing some issues.

I though about that option as well. What brand it is ? It is consistent ? because i read mixed reviews about electromagnetic sensors.

PaulS, those license plate sensors are in most case going to be installed on cars having the license plate on the trunk which is metal. Why would they do such thing if metal was an issue ? not contradicting your statement and experience but just raisng a question. On the coupe the strengthening bar is around 20cm below the sensors on my picture, even if steel indeed cause issues you think it isn't enough clearance ? https://gearflag.wordpress.com/2009/03/21/myth-about-steel-bumper-affecting-parking-sensor-performance/ Also found this article about this subject. Any though ? Now if we put aside the metal issue, from what i undestand in order to make the sensor beeping it must receive its own signal back from the obstacle. The red portion in the bumper has a steep angle so it's not a parallel situation and my guess is there chance that the wave can't bounce back directly to the sensor itself because of this. Still only suppositions.. I guess it's going to be a situation like try and see what happens..💩 Edit : After much thinking i'm going a slight different and probably safier route. I'm going to use only one or two ( not decided yet ) sensor attached on the edge of the big plastic bumper frame for the license plate and between or on the sides of the two license plate lamps depending if using one or two. I'll do the same in front bumper, only one or two sensors. I don't need a bunch of them in any corner of the car really, i'm confident in my parking "skills" 😝, it's just that i think would be useful when almost parked and in straight line to help keep a safe clearance, same when going out of parking. What do you think ?

Hello guys, i'm soon going 2 din head unit but i do not want to install a backup camera even though i have an input. I personally prefer the sensors but since i don't want to modify my bumper i though why not going with the license plate with integrated sensors. Since our rear license plate is deeply embedded in the bumper it should be discrete and i like the idea. Just when i was going to order it i had a last second though and probably saved my money or not. Yellow dots represent the sensors, three in total. The center sensor is straight but those on sides are slightly oriented toward the outside. Now what cause me an halt is that since our license plate is deeper in the bumper i fear that the side sensors may see the red portion of the bumper as an obstacle and beeping continuously.. I don't know how wide or narrow can be the angle of degree of those utrasounds but i'm not confident... I'm really novice to that stuff so any input would be appreciated.

Wow completely forgot i made a post about this ! I'm going to make an order at some point from Japan for some other parts i need and order another shock mount plate to get those matched.

Usually rusted radiator supports and bolts are bad signs, the car may have unfortunately already take a beating from salt..

Looks clean, but he didn't add the black background ? Look like each letters are individual or there is a transparent background i can't see. But since where the sticker is originally applied black as well it may render just as good with a transparent background.

Picture n°4 part n° 10, i bought 2 shock absorber mountings and one came from usa with no rubber ring on top and one came from japan with a rubber ring. Note that from the package i got the one from usa seems from a older stock while the one from japan looked being made more recently. Both parts came with the number 52675S84A01. So what is the purpose of this rubber ring on top of the mounting and why should it be better to use one rather the other ? Seems like a sort of upgrade that has been introduced at some point and wondering which version our coupe got, both ?

My apologies i misread your message. Though you where asking how to remove the tailight. As for not busting it i think would be difficult to do so. The piece is quite sturdy. When i removed mine after removing the bolts i just gently push from inside on each threads to make it slightly pop-out then grab it and removed it. Should come off really easely. Thing you may notice ( or hopefuly not ) is the holes on the trunk panel where the tailights threads goes in may be rusty and even start decomposing, if so take the occasion while it's disassembled and treat it.

Hope it helps

Fair enough, btw on your picture look like the background outline borders is silver but it's wear, it's actually all black.

Just measured, i confirm 95mm by 12mm. Font color is grey slighlty metallic on black background.

Car look fantastic. I personally prefer the orange blinkers. Same goes for our orange blinker backlights compared to the US version and overall i prefer our version of backlights. As for the headlights i like the US version a lot too with their bottom orange strip but for this car and specific headlights i prefer again our version better. Now regarding the lowering not all methods are equal in stifness and must be not over-estimated. Progressive lowering springs are mostly made to run smoothly with standard shocks and are not super firm by any mean. Usually those are between 30 to 50mm and trust me if you get quality progressive springs it's often more comfortable than oem springs... The suspension is just a smidge stiffer but in my opinion makes the car more controlled, comfortable and pleasant to drive. Don't know if in UK you must have any kind of certificate for aftermarkets parts for the MOT like most other European countries, if it's not the case you're left with a lot of choices for your springs. If you ever plan to install a pair and care about overall aesthetics i suggest you to choose wisely and take a set of springs that are lower in front than rear. The reason is that our car have the front arch wheel higher than the rear and give the impression that the car sits higher in front. Its approx. about 10 to 15mm difference. So if you install a set of springs like Eibach pro kit with is approx. -30mm all round you will still have a bigger gap bewteen the front arch and wheel than the rear which give you that so called "boat look". A good option would be like -50mm front and -40mm rear like the Tanabe DF210 or the AP Racing ones -40mm front and -30mm rear but those are discontinued and not online anymore but i know they still have a little stock left for order in direct contact.

Beautiful, what other plans you have for the future ? Also how bad was the dammages ?

Hello Hylton, can you be more specific on what you're looking for and what you mean by full set ? Also front, rear ? oem, aftermarket ? used, new ? And also for which version, CG2 or CG4 ?

Thanks for the report, when testing i was on manual fan selection too so seems your actuator had the same behavior as mine which should be a good sign supposing yours is in good working condition. Still didn't tried in full auto mode as i didn't used the car since then but will try soon as i can and with the thermometer test too.

You right, didn't take into account this point. Almost never used the full auto mode but i'll try. I'll try to bring a thermometer inside the car and see if the threshold applied by the car thermometer sensor is correct and if not by how many degrees off Yes was aware about that. Your report would be appreciated, thanks for your time.

Manual says if you disengage the air con it goes semi auto and thus the set temperature can't be maintained. Even if the lcd temperature isn't correct for around 3° from 19 to 25 it's a big gap as you just said..i can't be 6°+ off.. For the outside temperature was checking google on my phone and few minutes later when i got home i checked my outside thermometer and it was saying 19° too so it was accurate. I didn't measure the internal temperature. I'll check my temperature sensor if dirty. Don't think the sensor might be faulty, as i said i didn't remember having any issue prior disassembling the actuator. I was using the dashboard vents, the icon with the single arrow pointing at the head. Also seems to me that the temperature sensor is used only for the full auto mode not in semi auto like in my case scenario. Have no idea how the sunlight sensor is triggering the climate control, if anyone has any clue please let me know. What would be interesting is to try without the full auto, just auto and take note the outside temperature and try from 18 to 32 and depending the oustide temperature see if the motor actuator is still moving on all steps or not. Best to do this with the radio muted so you can hear it better. The actuator is located under the glove box on the left side, just near the central console. Usually it's very audible.

You're speaking in full auto mode right ? In my case i wasn't in full auto. If there was 19° outside i think it's not normal that i couldn't get any warm air under 25, do you agree ? When you set a temperature you can hear the actuator motor buzzing. Do you hear yours all the time from 18 to 32 ? or it doesn't move under certain temperature as well depending on the set temp and outside temp ?

Yesterday i took the car out and drive it for a while and the outside temperature was 19°. Engine was at his optimal warm temperature. Wasn't in full auto and a/c was off. Below 25 the air was cold and the actuator wasn't moving. Above 25 the actuator was moving and the mix cold/hot could be feel. To me it's not normal that below 25 the actuator wasn't moving and thus not getting any warm air since outside there was 19°. Before disassembling my actuator i don't remember my climate control behaving like this... Any though ?

Exactly, especially with progressive lowering springs and when the shocks are well adapted to the springs rate as well.

To be honest i never really mess up with the climate control in general with this car and don't even know how the auto mode work haha. About your quote, i think what you're saying make totally sense and didn't though about it that way.. When i first tested the car was outside on the sun, don't know what the temperature was inside the car but was kinda hot and then the actuator was opening full cold once i was going from 32 to 31, so if i understand correctly it means that inside the car there was 31°. Then i brought the car inside the garage where it's cooler and it's there that i made the self-diagnose and then notice that the actuator was moving to full cold from 27 which means the inside temp dropped to 27°, i am right ? So basically if we set a temperature on the control climate below the inside car temperature the actuator has no point to move since it's not possible to get cooler anyway..did i get it ? Gotta read the damn climate control instructions on the manual i guess..😅

Hello guys, My cold/hot air mixer control blend door actuator which is located on the passenger side under the dash was making some weird noises so i decided to take it appart clean it up and re-grease with dielectric grease. Before disassembling i make sure to mark position of the main gear so i reassemble it the same position it was. Note, before removing the actuar the air mix control was on 18 ( min ). So when i put everything togheter back and tested the weird noises where gone but i noticed that from 18 (min ) to 31 the actuator wasn't moving at all and still in full cold air position, but once i reached 32 ( max ) it moved to full hot position. Was totally confused, so i followed the instructions from the manual repair for a self-diagnose, turn key on pos II, rotate from 18 to 32, wait a minute and then when i keep pressing AUTO and then at same time pressing OFF the lcd screen turn...off. Don't know if this means there is no error or i'm doing something wrong..? I notice that after messing with this self-diagnose now the actuator had a slighlty wider range movement, don't know why or if it had to do something with this manipulation but now it moves from 32 to 27 but from 26 to 18 nothing.. I removed the climate control fuse and reinstall but problem still there.. I read somewhere that those actuator need a reset or re-calibration after a new install but i'm not sure about that and the manual repair doesn't mention anything about any reset procedure. Can someone confirm ? Right now don't know what is going wrong, the actuator seems fine and make no weird noises at all but don't want to move on certain steps. Any suggestions to what could be the culprit and where i should look at would be appreciated.