kag8

The bounciness is driving me nuts now lol. Even on the smoothest of roads. No matter what the speed i can feel some vibration. Most noticeable or worst however at 90mph (toot toot) and above. So i cant go at those speeds comfortably nor confidently. In troubleshooting it I have done the bounce test. Shocks seem fine (although they have done 116k miles). Springs while rusty arent cracked. Visual inspection doesnt show any leaks. Wheels were recently balanced although being deep dish I heard are more difficult to balance so could have been improperly balanced and I have hit a fair few potholes sinc3...but doesnt wheel balancing only cause vibration at certain speeds? Whereas what Im complaining of is more constant mini bounces no matter what speed? Front tyres are wearing more on the outer edge, no cupping though. Remember I have the wrong offset tyres which stick out slightly more so could be a contributing factor to tyre wear. Air pressures checked weekly. I know some of my engine mounts are gone but would they cause this much bouncing? I watched the engine during idle, revving and gear changes. At idle and rev doesnt move. Only when running through gears does it want to jump out badly. So most likely just the transmission mounts. Again the level of vibration seems too high... Also spent some time looking at my driver seat which wobbles loads. This could make vibrations more pronounced. Need to get round to tightening it up somehow but reading online seems there is an inherent fault in the honda design so im unlikely to be succesful without ordering expensive replacement linkages and brackets... I think a proper health check is top of priority now...alot of things may just be the normal characteristics of the car snd just me being too demanding? Although never known to have the this bouncy feeling on brand new smooth roads :s. Last thing i want to do is change lots of parts and still have this complaint. In other news. I changed my cabin filter. Had never been done before and they were filthy. Overflowing with crushed leaves etc. Good thing I changed them. Just such a pain to do so, on the 7th gen it takes 30 seconds and no screws need removing, this one though was overengineered. In fact drove around for a couple of days without a glove compartment as it was on the floor of the passenger side lol. Now when I came to close it up again few days later I ended up with 3 'extra' screws. Ah well, have to open it up again to check which ones I missed off again another weekend.

Yeah that's the thing to be wary about low mileage cars, they probably haven't had the cambelt and water pump done.

The interior on that looks very nice!

I understand what you mean. Im always more paranoid in the first few months of ownership of a new to me car. Trying to get it obliviously perfect..on a budget as well. Then after a while it goes down hill where I just drive it without a care in the world. The novelty of the coupe has really lasted though. It is a special car. Yup because I have just the one car I cant compare the drive to anything else accurately enough. Would love to drive my daily commute in another car just to feel the ride quality. Maybe it would convinve me not to change my shocks and springs which I am very tempted to do so as to remove that bouncy feeling I mentioned before (but this feeling could be due to motor mounts having failed. Although it could be just my mind tricking me into buying lowering springs and new shocks "for a better ride quality".

Yeah if I did get it would purely have been a breaker. Just dont have the space or rather permission for it. The heights Ill go to for a body kit haha. Did you check it out in person stu? Just curious whether it was lowered as its got 18s with same tyre sizes as mine but the arch gap appears much smaller?

What about this one? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/132192556085 One owner. 38k miles. Decent asking price (assuming room to negotiate too). Just a few dents kind of spoil it?

I came across this last night, starting bid at £200 or buy it now £500. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201923693583?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Same colour as mine and has a bodykit! Apparently same size rims and tyres but does look lower, maybe its the illusion of the bodykit. I dreamt of bidding on it just for the bodykit...and maybe the stereo, lowering springs (if they exist), etc....when I woke up from my day dream found it has already been sold!

Lots of success this weekend, feeling good. After confirming the wheel studs were tight I went to the garage and we had a look while the car was raised up. The knocking was because the front driver side drop link wasnt fitted properly (I insisted) so the lower rod (don't know the technical name) had a lot of play. They removed the drop link and refitted it, properly this time (or were just lucky). And the knocking is gone. Wooh. Also, that other knocking sound when playing with the steering wheel. Traced to this bar (again don't know the technical name) which they tightened and now the sound is gone. There is still a slight clicking/cracking sound from the steering wheel itself inside the cabin, which I remember my 7th gen also had, it so rarely happens so Im not too bothered by it. Thanks for all the tips and advise guys.

Woah i was barely doing 20mph when I lost my wheel and that was scary. Cant imagine how freaky it would have been to lose one on the motorway! I should have said I did try this but being the weakling I am I couldnt get the wheel to budge! I then motioned to my 1.5yr old son in the driver seat to shake the steering wheel but he wasn't in the mood to help lol.

I'll have a look at this too over the weekend and if I need more direction will ask thanks!

Thanks so much. Currently studying the very useful diagrams posted in the part number reference thread to see the location of the bits you mentioned. Just trying to avoid the garage telling me its something, have that replaced and only to find out the noise is still there! I'll personally have a look at the bits you mentioned when the car is raised and check for play etc. I'll also get the lug nuts checked first thing in the morning before setting off, although they wouldn't have taken the wheel off to fit the droplinks but I will check just to be sure. Could have got progressively loose over time. I have had a wheel come off whilst driving once before, in my '78 lancer, just driving home from having new alloys fitted, going down a hill luckily at very low speeds and felt the car drop on the passenger side...somehow got the car to stop without crashing into the car infront of me. The loose wheel actually went round the back of my car due to backspin and then rolled down the hill almost taking out the driver side door out when I opened it to get out. Phew lucky noone got hurt.

I had the drop links changed, all 4. Much tighter drive all round. The clanging sound from the front left of the car I complained about previously is gone now. Makes sense as that drop link had completely snapped off Now the only thing really bugging me is a newish almost constant knocking sound from the front right drivers side wheel area. I will be going back to the garage tomorrow to get it checked out of course, didn't have a chance to go back immediately as I picked it up after work and they shut. But I'm now I'm obsessing over it trying to educate myself for when I do go there tomorrow. Reading up lots and seems many people had similar issues, thrown a lot of money at it and still not gone away so best to go with some idea of what to look for. Hopefully it is just the new drop link that needs tightening or something but because I always doubted something in my steering I feel the drop link repair has just made this issue more pronounced and so is a separate issue. Basically, the pre existing issue was when parked and car is switched off so no power steering, if I play with the steering shaking it rapidly left to right slightly I can hear the knocking almost in the steering itself and sort of feel a click but more audible from the outside near the wheel? Sounds like this almost (not as loud though): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ychmhtJTf0Y (I only figured this out because my son sits and plays pretnd with the steering wheel when I'm doing something or the other to the car lol.) Now following the drop link replacement, the knocking happens mostly over bumps at low speed, more often when turning right. Aso I did find the wheel noise from the front right section on a rough patch of the m25 to be way louder too (so could be constant knocking drowned out by other road noise). I've read up online and seems it could be anything, CV joint, steering rack, top mounts on struts (?), lug nuts, tie rod ends. Any accord coupe specific thoughts? PS. The drop links used were Febi Bilstein, new. Oh and whilst diagnosing I noticed my bonnet doesnt shut flush, so I can shake it to make a sound which probably contributes to the noise when going over bumps. In fact it is less snug on the driver side and shut better on the passenger side.

Now I'm really tempted to try it too. Even if it only lasts for a few miles before it re-learns itself to stock, should be fun!

Hopefully should do. Although in my case will be difficult to attribute any mpg improvements solely to oil change as I did have the exhaust leak fixed too. Btw is it true filling up a full tank of high octane fuel [vpower] and then disconnecting battery for like half an hour would engage a top secret sports mode? Or were you pulling our legs when you posted that elsewhere on this forum lol. I wanted to try it as I think it staying in 3rd gear a little while longer especially on the days my gearbox shifts smoothly would be more fun.

Thanks stu. Would you say its a DIY job or maybe something I should speak my new mechanic friend? Lol. Are these the Honda part numbers? GP9185HY GP8974 GP9149HY GP8898 GP8986 I found this image but doesnt include part numbers on there. https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=j30a1+mounts&client=ms-android-om-lge&prmd=sivn&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwigmYjEs-bTAhXjKcAKHURuBYMQ_AUICigC&biw=360&bih=518#imgrc=SzGTaBvldSS3mM: I thought Honda part numbers would have way more numbers and letters in them?

Love the tips mate. Looks a very similar colour to the muffler box so a more clean factory lool!

@Retsof G by the way I contacted the ebay seller of that full stainless kit with headers, intake etc. Asking if they could opt in to Global Shipping Programme. Had a response that they are opted in but unfortunately exhaust systems are excluded from the programme So thats a no go it seems for anyone looking to import from ebay USA via GSP. Would have to go through normal shipping channels which would cost even more plus the customs handling fees etc. Bill is lucky his car came with the exhaust system fitted, good thing he decided to keep them in the end. Good decision.

Thanks for the information @Laird_Scooby. I learned from the experience and sort of made a mechanic friend too haha. So this week I have changed the oil to the 10w30 recommended on this forum, oil filter to the long bosch one and did one more atf fluid drain and fill. Hoping for increased mpg as I read elsewhere on this forum the correct oil lead to an almost 8mpg increase!:o Cant say Ive noticed anything different in idling or the drive (but barely done miles so will report back on mpg in a couple of weeks) Going to get the air filter and cabin filter installed as soon as they arrive too. I watched the engine while someone else shifted through the gears after the ATF drain and refill. It wanted to jump out, literally! Another symptom of bad engine mounts, but which mount? The one behind the oil dipstick (with a dedicated thread) looks perfectly fine no oil leak. Could it be a transmission mount? So symptoms include; 1.car jumping forward in the morning first cold start on P. 2. Engine wanting to jump out when shifting through gears at standstill. 3. And also weirdly on this brand new flat and smooth road we have here, i feel alot of very slight but high frequency annoying judder/bounce. Not related to wheel balancing as had that done recently and this symptom is present at all speeds. Also probably not shocks/suspension as all seem fine on inspection. Front drop links are known issue and on to do list but shouldnt cause this type of judder. Reading up elsewhere seems to point to bad mounts. I think it is a mount. Most likely transmission mount. Is it best to get them all changed though? What are the part numbers so I can order them? Is it a very difficult/expensive job? Sorry for all the diagnostic queries!

Yup its all a learning experience for me. I do wonder if I still had the pre muffler on whether the drone/vibration would have been less. Ah well. Its done now.

Yes very dissapointed and tired. At least my flanges are fixed now so no more exhaust leak. I think im just going to try the touch up paint repair once more, then detail the whole car and then like you say, just drive it for a good few months.

Thanks for all the advise everyone. Always appreciated. Noone tells me what to do not even my wife (ok she told me to say that) lol just kidding. Honestly do appreciate all the advice and have never felt coerced or pressured into doing what others advise. So keep the tips coming. Update time. I found a backstreet welder. Who happened to have backboxes in stock too. Convinced me they would look and sound awesome. Which they did to be fair. I remember my expression when I came back round 2hrs later and saw the car parked, jaw drop. The backboxes were huge and just the right amount if peek from under the bumper. Turn on the car. Deep throaty sound. I was overjoyed. Paid the lad and drove off. As soon as I got to the first slight incline I sensed something was amiss. The whole car shook! Massive vibration throughout the whole car, steering wheel, pedals. The coins were rattling. It happened constantly from about 1500rpm to 2500rpm which is the rpm when doing the speed limit. Througg all gears. Was horrible. Went back to the guy. We spent about an hour looking for the cause. I was hoping and willing for it to just be bad mounts but deep inside I knew it was drone caused by having a random larger pipe connected to almost straight through backboxes. We experimented. Had loads of google searches and even called an exhaust specialist for advice. Ended up deciding to go back to stock. Now after cutting and welding it up once before already. 2.5 inch pipe for the backboxes. The stock ones wouldnt fit without cutting and welding again (couldnt source reducers in good time). So now its back to stock but all out of wack in terms of measurement one side slightly shorter pipe so they dont hang evenly. My tips protude funny now lol. Ill have to take the tips off to disguise this. At least he refunded me for the backboxes. I didnt have the heart to ask for a refund for all the other bits we did because we were both messing about to be honest and he was as desperate to get it to work as I was. All happened in one afternoon over to evening so couldnt even post updates here for advise in real time. Anyway lesson learned. Leave stock exhausts as thry are. If want a better sound. Go full stainless! Less trial and error and associated heart ache. Maybe we should call my project "Project FAIL" because I progressively make my car worse lol, first the touch up paint, then the driver headlight and now the exhaust hahahaaha. I think i love my accord too much so smothering it instead of leaving it alone!

Thanks mate. Only thing with my alloys is the ET is too low so the front do stick out (more than the rear wheels) and that gap, wish I could lower the car. Yes fitting a whole complete exhaust seems straight forward. It's these garages looking to fleece me which annoying me. Is this the kit you are looking at? http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/201099615482?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I havent contacted them yet about Global Shipping Programme, wonder how much shipping and import duties would be if they did opt in.

Thats exactly what i told them! Just cut. Weld. Simple. Lol. Then they say we need to bend the pipe and install new mounting brackets. :s There is one more welding place nearby I will go check with tomorrow. If no luck then Ill just get the right flange repaired grudgingly for £35.

I went to 3 places and each said because the flanges are gone too so they need to weld additonal length of piping to backboxes. This piping needs to be bent to shape to join the Y point. :S Even repairing the flange, best quote I got was £35 for one side. :s I really want to install mufflers. £170 all in is doable. But not £250 plus!

My Honda centre caps had arrived! When I ordered them it looked gold in the picture but came as being silver lol, still look good and saves me from messing about with changing the rear and front badges to gold to match! Here is a pic (ignore the kerbing!): I don't know if it's the ATF-U kicking in but the gear shifts are much smoother now! I had done 2 drain and refills and have covered approx 600miles since and finally seems to have done something. I went the long way home, downshifts didnt want to throw me through the windscreen and upshifts were so smooth! It's not consistent though, some days its really bad, other days the jerkiness is only noticeable when coming to a complete stop and other days its all so good! I think a 3rd drain and refill is due. Will do it with my next service (have ordered Smith & Allan 10w30 and the longer Bosch oil filter too!). I've now been to quite a few "exhaust specialists" and they are all quoting ridiculous amounts just to install new 'performance' mufflers. Some claim will need to fabricate new brackets, bend pipes, etc so just does not seem worth it. Might as well import a full stainless steel exhaust from USA (tip to those considering this, contact US seller and ask them to update the listing so as to opt in to Global Shipping Programme and accurately input the dimensions/weight of the product, turns out much cheaper in my experience!)...but yeah not going to import an exhaust either. So, I'll just get the flange fixed. Or should I also get the resonator deleted too? I'm after a louder sound but it might sound tinny. Not sure. Watching videos of this setup on youtube (albeit with the acura 3.2 tl). Some sound awesome, others are 'fart canny'. Just can get a better deal to get it all done at once with the flange repair. Oh yes, whilst at the garage I got them to have a look underneath to try see the cause of the clunk sound I mentioned previously. The metal shroud surrounding the catalyctic convert (the one before the resonator) was abit loose so that could contribute to the sound but more worringly the drop links/stabilizer links at the front were both gone. So am searching for these online to get them replaced asap. Any other parts down there that should be changed together with these? I'm thinking to do the association bushings too as a minimum but want to do as much essential maintenance in one go to save labour costs. Is it worth doing the rear links too although they seemed ok?