kag8

Sorry im confused. Should it be 650g or 1000g? If 650g, is missing 100g significant enough to cause an issue?

I thought it was too quick. Where is the sticker? All i can find is aomething that says h134a. Will have to call them out again and fill it up to 1000 g

Lol. Im not sure what a full service entails but it seemed too quick for a full service. The print out showed: Gas recovered 0g Oil recovered 0cc Vacuum 3 min Oil injected 5 cc Gas injected 550g Gas avail 5080g Apparently they also added tracer dye and dod an anti bacterial clean. It all happened to quick and had to tend to the kid so couldnt spectate continously. Maybe im just a skeptic haha but for now it blows cold so im happy. They guy also said AC doesnt cause much more fuel consumption as people think. Probably equal to the cost of air drag from keeping windows open. I much prefer fresh air but will try use it regularly to keep the stuff circulating as advised.

I had one of the local mobile air con service vans come round today morning and perform a "full service and refill". Didnt look like a full service but for 30quid I wont complain if it continues to blow cold for a year as they claimed it would as a minimum...lets see how long it actuallly lasts though. Heard the heatwave is due back and didnt want to get oven roasted again if stuck in traffic so hopefully this will be worth the money.

Thanks @Laird_Scooby for the quick and as always very helpful reply! I had a look and grabbed everything I could to check for play. I previously mentioned I could twist the tie rods. Still can. But im comfortable that this is normal as no up-down or side-side movement and the twisting can be seen at the joint. The CV joints. Boots look fine no splits no oil BUT there is a bit of play. Both right and left side cv joints. Enough play to cause a clicking sound. I think this isnt normal right? It should be solid? Could CV joint also contribute to the high speed vibration and uneven tyre wear? If i need to change both what are tha part numbers please? For the main diagnostic of the knocking sound. It is after all coming from the drop link on driver side. Well not exactly the drop link which is solid. But the bar (sway bar?) which connects to the top nut on drop link. At certain angles if I pull on the bar near the top nut of the drop link I can recreate that exact loud knocking noise. I wonder what is causing this noise to develop as if I have to keep going back for drop link to be refitted every month thats a pain lol. Could it be steering related (still not happy with the clicks and creaks i get from it)? Or is it just a case of poorly fitted drop link or poor quality part? Another bit that could contribute to the noise is the undercarriage plastic thing is loose so Im sure occassionally it gets pushed up against the cars frame/chassis and makes a noise. Minor but something Ive made a note of to fix at some point. Btw I meant to do another p/s fluid drain and refill. Sucked out a tiny bit to inspect the colour. Looked goldenish still so will leave it for a few more weeks before changing. I still havent got round to changing the O rings. Will probably wait and see if Stu thinks its necessary...then I turned around and my son had spilled all the old p/s fluid I had collected in an empty engine oil jerrycan from previous flushes. Shared parking area. Neighbours not going to be happy!!

Ive got my new springs and front shocks just need to get them installed. Also the engine mounts. Whenever you are ready mate. Need abit of diagnostic help today though. Mentioned on another thread that I was getting a knocking sound. Its very similar to what I got after my droplinks were changed. Coming from the right hand side (driver side). Last time I took it back to the garage and asked them to refit the drop link which sorted it. But now its back and I can feel the knock in the pedal and steering wheel especially when turning right. Even the slightest right turn can produce the sound. So if im not 100% straight when approaching a bump it will knock over the bump. A couple of days ago it fixed itself. Car drove fantastically. No knocks. Which was weird. And its back again. Yesterday i took a very sharp left turn at low speed and heard a faint ticking sort of sound...researching online its pointing towards the right cv joint being the culprit. Going to try have a look later today but its only recently the front suspension was checked so Im thinking its the shock absorber mounting??

My A/C doesn't blow cold, could have used it when stuck on the m25 for hours yesterday, was sooo hot!

Yours seems a different issue as its only on bumpy roads. I can't get the vibration to go away even by changing the steering height. The vibration I get is almost constant and I think it is RPM related. I'm now positive I can feel it in the footwell and the centre arm rest too, whilst subtle at idle it is there and only gets worse as I rev. It seems most violent behind the centre dash footwell section (I stuck my barefoot around lol the cabin haha) so near the RR motor mount on the engine bay side. Thanks for checking. Now I'm sure its not normal. It doesn't feel normal. The steering should be rock solid and comfortable to hold. I'm running 18s too! 34psi all round. I know not all tyres are equal but mine ride like crap. I can feel each and every little bump. Have you got original stock shocks on yours? Or have they ever been changed (even if with OEM ones)?

Mine seems slightly worse than yours in that when I shake the back rest (which has a lot of play) the base moves slightly too. Although I only noticed all of this when looking for loose bits. When I'm sat in the seat driving my weight keeps the seat firm so don't notice any movement though. I have attached a repair bulletin which seems overly complicated and requires replacement of a plastic bracket which isn't cheap itself weirdly for what it is. Also having searched online apparently it's only going to break again. There is also this repair I came across which seems more solid but not sure how applicable it is to accords. https://www.civicforums.com/forums/182-7th-generation-civic/347427-diy-driver-seat-rock-permanent-fix.html 2008-07-14_143236_accord_seat_repair.pdf

Should I order the set of 5 mounts then from the link you had posted before? Or would it be wiser to change just the problematic mount with OEM (used if available?)?

Yes you did, thanks. You also posted a link of a set of 5 mounts which I've been considering whether to purchase or not. I don't know if I can come up until July at the earliest though! With the engine idling I went round touching areas in the bay, the power steering pipe that leads all the way to the back of the engine bay has a lot of vibration. The mount labelled RR has a lot of vibration. The most easily visible Front (Left?) mount has a tiny bit of play if try to push the engine with my hand. The FR mount vibration was negligible. Just posting this in case it helps with diagnosis although physical inspection is probably the only thing that can help at this point. I forgot to put quotation marks when I mentioned "expensive machine" before lol. The manager said it to me in a condescending way when I asked how they will check out my suspension. I don't think they checked the run out, but they did have the wheels off the car for quite some time and balancing them took ages (suggesting the garage that balanced them previously hadn't done a very good job or could just be sales speak). The constant subtle vibration is there at idle on Neutral. It kind of increases as I rev but not by too much. If I stick it on D4 however and press on the brake and then rev (not good I know) the vibration is very similar to what I am experiencing on the road. I'll have to check again and see if I can describe it better. But would have hoped that the garage would have picked up on worn tie rod ends while they had the car raised up and were checking it "thoroughly". I think so too, the ride seems too harsh for good suspension, even on 18s, plus I've got that outer edge wear. Sigh.

So I went to a fancy type garage becuase they advertised that they had one of the best balancing and alignment machines. Got the wheels rebalanced and spigot rings fitted. Also had the car put on an expensive suspension testing machine which rocked it and they observed. I was sat in the waiting room watching it all unfold on the cctv camera. Diagnosis on suspension was it is all fine. No bits have excessive play (I asked them to check the tie rods especially since i could twist them by hand). Shocks seem fine too they said. They made fun of my exhaust too haha which was expected. Wheels not bent or out of true so phew. Anyway the vibration. Not improved. In fact now I think its mainly the motor mounts causing this vibration. On idle there is a very subtle vibration in the steering wheel. Not sure whats normal anymore. Lol. On accelaration it gets rougher. Appears to be RPM linked :s I guess at high speeds the RPMs are high, shocks whilst not shot are knackered and the engine moves around alot causing the floatiness feeling I get?? I didnt do an alignment as Im really tempted to shange the shocks and fit lowering springs. Then do the alignment. Penny pinching well it is not cheap to do an alignment lol. This vibration/bounciness is becoming a wild goose chase to diagnose. Urgently need to make a trip to Honda HQ.

I do get a petrol smell occassionally so potentially could benefit from lambda sensor change. Maybe also a EGR valve and Throttle body clean out? Most likely quite dirty given I dont think previous owners made it a point to use V-power fuel... Whilst kind of on the topic I should mention that twice I have had the 'hot soak' symptom. https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/acuramstr/2008-11-06_190220_heat_soak.pdf&ved=0ahUKEwijxKDQy6HUAhXkAMAKHUYkDG8QFggqMAE&usg=AFQjCNGC7LqqulkOofde8VDztN33vBdvyw This happened on really hot day when I was driving around doing loads of errands across short distances. On starting the car I had to press the accelerator to keep the revs from dropping to zero and the car stalling. But after that initial rev it was perfectly fine. Could it lead to something much worse or would it be fine to leave it as seems to be an expensive fix for something that only happens on the very rare hot day. Off to get the wheels rebalanced and spigot rings installed. Hopefully that vibration gets sorted.

For those who would like to attempt a DIY I thought this was a very nice tutorial video. I havent attempted it myself though!

Yeah, the syringe method of part changes is much better and easier method. They dont see to be leaking but getting a lot of bubbling in the reservoir which I read loads of people say was fixed by changing the O rings. I might not actually change them if after a few more part changes of fluid the bubbling is under control. I did slowly turn the steering left and right full lock to try get rid of air in the system but wasnt very effective. Regarding the lambda sensor, thanks for the link. I should have done a search as there is a wealth of information on here already but thanks again for posting it here. I agree it should go on the list for whenever ever I do manage to go to Honda HQ.

The youtube link is within this thread. http://www.6thgenaccord.com/forums/showthread.php?t=43340 Posting the thread as it shows how the youtube video is slightly adapted to work for our V6s. The O rings i bought are part # 91370-SV4-000 and 91345-RDA-A01. woah. Sounds like I should change mine. Is it just plug and play? Any part number assistance would be a great help.

I think you are referring to the ATF and not the P/S fluid? I have done 3 ATF changes now and wasnt planning anymore for quite a while now (I used ATF-U). I have never disconnected the battery to reset the ECU. I guess I can do it now and see if it does do anything. The shifting has definitely improved, well most times, it can be hit and miss. Other times its still rough and others its so smooth I dont want to stop driving. The first day I really felt it smooth was so much fun. How does one check the lambda sensor? Where is it even located? Ive just done a P/S flush and refill. The old fluid was dark brown which silly me thought was normal until I saw the new fluid (genuine honda) is beautiful golden colour. The whine and vibration in the pipes I was complaining about seems to have improved slightly. I am hoping the pump can be saved. Have ordered genuine O rings as suggested on a youtube video and will replace when I next do another PS fluid extraction and replacement. By the way, when is that supposed to be carried out ideally?

I had visited 2 chemists, got weird looks and unfortunately they didn't have any large syringes. Biggest size they had was 5ml apparently. Anyway, the Syringe I ordered off Amazon (thanks again @Laird_Scooby) arrived today, very quick delivery actually! So will give it a shot this weekend. In terms of updates on mpg after changing oil to S&A, can't say its improved. Still the same as before. Probably have other issues that need to be taken care of to see any mpg increases. Oh and might just be a placebo but I find that if when using the car all I have to do is stick it straight into D4, i.e. if I had reverse parked before so don't need to reverse out and then go into D4 to drive off, the gear shifts are smooth. WHen I have to do a reverse manouver then drive off I find the transmission ends up shifting more roughly for the duration of that drive. Not a scientific test but just what I feel, again could just be in my head. Im therefore reverse parking 9/10 times now

Sorry guys I completely forgot about it and its only after many hours of searching online that I came across someone post that as a solution then I remembered that I didn't have them fitted on. Have never had them on any of my other cars before so didn't really consider it as a contributing factor. I ordered the aluminium ones (ebay 142079893050) and they have arrived very quickly. Look very good quality too. Unfortunately they are the wrong size for my wheels! I ordered them having referred to the invoice the original owner of these wheels passed on to me which showed a center bore size of 73.1mm (which is almost universal for after market alloys) in the specs, but it is actually smaller...going to have to return them and place an order for the correct size after measuring it properly. Would the lack of spigot rings cause faster wear on the outer edge though? I think I have a bigger issue, suspension wise. Anyway will get it checked out properly this weekend, fingers crossed it can be identified and sorted. Thanks. It is my frankenstein exhaust. Which also seems to be getting new leaks everyday now. Really need to get a whole new setup. Thanks. Went for genuine at £14, missed out on the deal you had posted. Lucas was half the size though so would have needed 2 bottles. Looking for a syringe now, hopefully will find one to collect over weekend and do a part change.

Thank you. I have rung a few garages to enquire about wheel alignment prices. Although I will insist on a thorough check of the suspension components before the alignment is done. I have also orderered spigot rings since my alloys have a slightly larger wheel bore size 73.1mm and I believe the coupe has 64.1mm. I have read the online debates and many say it doesnt do anything but others have sworn it got rid of the high speed vibration for them so I just thought why not give it a shot. Not expecting it to solve the problem on its own but hopefully make it better. The rings are only a few quid anyway and will get the garage to fit them on when doing the tyre rotation and re-balancing since im paranoid about a bent front wheel. Other news, my power steering is acting up. Makes a loud whining and grinding noise when the bonnet is open and steering turned either side. Almost certain its not the belt as I can feel it in the pipes vibration or struggling to push the fluid around and the reservoir bubbles. Only when turning the steering wheel. How much steering fluid will I need to do part changes until its almost all new? Im intending to use genuine honda liquid of course. Another odd thing I noticed was, whilst the ticking noise from engine is a very common phenomenon and my coupe has it, it also has a very faint ticking noise AFTER switching off the engine. Almost for like a minute after. Fan was not spinning. Im curious as to what could cause that sound???

Thanks mate. Would that indicate the tie rod end is bad or another part? Seems so weird that such a small play in this piece could cause that much vibration but I guess its just one of the issues I have that contributes to it.

Thanks mate. The movement is very slight, although the driver side moving more than the passenger hints at something wrong anyway. And it makes a slight sound when I rotate it with force. What are the part numbers for them? Anything else attached to the tie rod ends or related parts that should be changed too? This garage I went to seem incompetent. I asked them to check out the whole suspension when I took it in for the drop links.

Could be. But i pray its not

Just got home from work and checked under the car (not raised the car up yet) but grabbed hold of every part I could under the front. This part had a bit of play: I could sort of rotate it. Slight but enough to make a sound. On the passenger side it moved less but still made a slight sound. Is that the tie rod end? Should it be solidly tight or have some play? Could it be the cause or one of the causes? Bill and PRT (is it Paul or Peter? Sorry) I'll respond to your latest posts asap (thanks) just writing this from my phone then going to get some food to eat, starving!

Very vague yes. I have to grip the steering really tight and concentrate hard. Not as bad as changing lanes automatically but almost as you describe. Another vote for new shocks and springs. The driver seat, was me clutching at straws I think. The vibration comes from the steering wheel. Bounciness is from the car overall. I tried to check for loose bolts on the seat but couldn't find any. This service manual (https://www.skidmore.edu/~pdwyer/e/files/tsb/a03-032.pdf) suggests I have to remove the whole seat and replace a bracket which I would need to order in but other forums have other tricks to fix using larger washers etc..I've driven the car with me pushing back on the seat as hard as I can while sat in it lol to keep it steady and can still feel the vibration in the wheel and the whole car overall. 225/40 on 18s. I expected a harsher ride due to the lowish profile tyres, but even on delicious brand new roads? You are the voice of reason haha, my fingers itchin to pull the trigger and order new shocks and lowering springs Unfortunately I sold the standard wheels already. And I had them on for a couple of weeks when I got the car and I remember feeling that vibration and complaining about it. There was also a pull to the left when coasting to a lower speed. With the new balanced wheels the vibration at speeds above 55mph had gone (it was very pronounced before) but now I'm noticing it again, lighter at low speeds, more at higher speeds. Above 90mph its ridiculous. The pull doesn't exist anymore though. Only done a wheel balancing on all 4 new wheels, not alignment. The wear on outer edge of both front wheels is very rapid for newish tyres. I felt it again today and is 'feathered' wear on the outer edges. Tyre pressure is at 34psi, too high? The door sticker states 32psi and I believe my tyres can be filled up to almost 50psi, not that I would fill it that high. Any lower than 30psi and the front wheels look flat plus I risk bending the rims on bumps and potholes. The wear has come in very quickly. Isn't it almost compulsory to align the car after changing suspension components? Would feel like a waste to do an alignment without changing any suspension bits.