Roverussia Posted February 7, 2015 Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 Unless i'm mistaken your car has the PL5 auto box as well. As far as i'm aware, the only automatic gearbox ever fitted to any 827 was the PL5, regardless of market/country it was destined for. Maybe I'm confused in the notation. PL5 have 5 gears on drive position? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted February 7, 2015 Author Moderators Report Share Posted February 7, 2015 No it doesn't but i can see why you think that. It has 4 forward gears, 1, 2, 3, and overdrive 3 which in effect is 4. However, on the shift quadrant, you only get to be able to select 2, S and D. You can use 2 for engine braking going downhill or as a "Winter" mode by selecting 2 to pull away - it forces the gearbox to start off in 2nd gear and obviously won't change up automatically. As long as you're gentle with the throttle pedal, starting off in 2 means there is no wheelspin, even on ice. Then you have S which is "Sport" mode. The gearbox shifts automatically between 1, 2 and 3 and alters the ignition timing and up-shift points to maximise performance. While in S, you can press the "S4" button on the side of the gear lever to obtain 4th gear while still keeping it in sport mode. In D, the gearbox shifts through 1, 2, 3 and 4 normally. Ignition coil is work or not. I learn PGM-FI manual, IAT sensor is engaged at cold start. You can connect a variable resistor to IAT sensor for test. May be helpful. Perhaps the Russian version of the PGM-Fi is more exact than the English version. The English version is a bit ambiguous and seems to imply the IAT is only used when the engine is running. As such it won't be used for a cold start when the engine isn't running. I agree to a point that ignition coils either work or they don't, however it has been known for them to not give the best output first thing in the day and also to sometimes give trouble when they get hot - same goes for the igniters. As for connecting a variable resistor to either mimic or add to the resistance of the IAT i won't be doing that. I have a spares car sat in the garage with an engine that smokes like mad, thanks to the previous owner doing exactly that and leaving it connected. It's just a process of elimination, i'll find the problem eventually but while there are no fault codes showing and no definite "hard" fault it's just a case of being patient or getting lucky with a guess. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted February 10, 2015 Author Moderators Report Share Posted February 10, 2015 Back on topic for a minute, i had a flash of inspiration today (or was it perspiration? ) when my fingers slipped on the key as i went to start the beast. The starter had barely flicked the engine when the key was back in position II (ignition only) and it fired instantly. This reminded me of a problem i had with my old Volvo 740 GLE - it started doing the same trick, being a pig to start on the first start of the day. I traced that to the ignition switch. Basically as the switch is now worn after 21 years, instead of keeping the feed to the ignition as it should, it's losing it slightly as the contacts aren't holding together s they should so although it's turning over well, it's losing the spark and/or the fuel management. I'll try to devise a test for it and report back as soon as i can. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted February 15, 2015 Author Moderators Report Share Posted February 15, 2015 Little bit of an update - i've not had time to do the tests to confirm the ignition switch as of yet and with the coupe back on the road the Sterling will now be getting the attention it deserves to eliminate the noise from the steering and front suspension. Meanwhile, the strange cold start problem seems to have disappeared, even when it's still freezing. I wonder if maybe i just wasn't using the car enough and the battery got a bit low? The reason for thinking this is it had a decent daytime run the other day and was much better after that. Time will tell and while it's off the road for the steering/suspension work, i'll check the earths etc to the starter, battery, block etc and maybe even whip the starter off and give it a brief inspect/clean/lube type service to see if that helps any. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 22, 2015 Author Moderators Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Been a while since i posted anything on this thread, mainly because there's has been nothing to report. However, i think i have found the problem!! Sneaky doesn't begin to cover this one, not even in your wildest dreams or nightmares!!! The breakthrough happened a couple of weeks back when the oil filler cap collapsed. Yes, really, the threads on it literally crumbled! I gave it a rub and a shake to make sure nothing else was going to fall off it and put it back on gently and drove home. Being in a hurry, i borrowed one from one of the other beasts. Needing to move said other beast later that day, it was an absolute pig to start and then idled like a bag of spanners. Maybe you're ahead of me now. I'd left the oil filler cap off, hadn't i? No problem you'd think, right? WRONG!!! It runs Positive Crankcase Ventilation (PCV) and any oil leaks (eg rocker cover gaskets, cylinder head side plates etc) become air leaks once the oil has drained down while the engine is off. Since then i've been using a different routine to start the coupe. I let the PGM-Fi light go out and flick the key to the start position and let go. The starter barely touches the engine but that's not the point - the Cold Start Injector opens during cranking but only for a second or so. Next turn of the key, i let the PGM-Fi light go out and flick the key round to start. This time it bursts straight into life! This shows there is either an air leak or the mixture is scarily lean when cold. Given that it drives fine, cold or hot, i'd say it's an air leak. Knowing as i do that both rocker cover gaskets leak and so do the cylinder head side plates (i know, i know!) i think the next step is to renew said gaskets and see what it does after that. Not sure how soon that will happen as got so many other things going on just now it's unreal but watch this space! Or at least check on it once in a while! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted March 22, 2015 Administrators Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 Thanks for the follow up Dave and I’m guessing it's an air leak from what your saying, so keep us posted buddy. I hate starting the V6 lately I have to be very quick the key as its so eager to fire up Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted March 22, 2015 Author Moderators Report Share Posted March 22, 2015 No problem Stu - i hate it when a thread is left "hanging" and nobody knows if a cure was found or even a fault. Yes, i'm pretty sure it's an air leak courtesy of the leaky rocker cover and cylinder head side plate gaskets so that extra air is getting in with the PCV system so in effect it's throwing everything out of balance. Either way the gaskets need fixing as oil dripping on the exhaust isn't nice! Hopefully it will prove the point about the air leaks too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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