hughezee

Excellent job as per looking forward to seeing them installed now

Nicely nicely

ohhh yeah they do look nice, they would sing a happy tune with that stainless steel exhaust "Currently On The Spares Motor"

Few illustrations on the IAC Valve, to give you a view into the unit before cleaning it or replacing it The actual valve below is slightly different to those in the diagrams above, but you get the idea Any questions please ask

This is a simple yet a very effective way to keep your manual transmission silky smooth and an all too often ignored as a maintenance item until there's an issue.🙄 You should tackle this job after a 10-20 minute drive, as MTF fluids are thicker than engine oils and this will allow it to empty more readily. Now proceed to jack up at the front of the car from the side where transmission is located, also as an extra safety measure place, an axle stand under the structural chassis beam. Unless you are using ramps which are the best option all-around. Then place some plastic sheeting down just in case and ensure a suitable bowl is placed under the sump to prevent an oily mess on the floor or driveway. As illustrated above the gearbox filler bolt at the top is loosened but not removed as this can be a lot harder to remove than the drain bolt, so use a rubber mallet with caution to shock it loose. Now with the pipe in the filler hole and keep filling the transmission until it trickles out and then put the filler bolt back in, either with a new washer or some liquid gasket to maintain a good seal as shown below. The images should be self-explanatory really, but any questions please don’t hesitate to ask?

Feed the interest, feed the interest

No worries Dave, it will be great to see all the fruits of your labour

good man can't believe the things you've had to put right :shock: looking forward to the final installments bud

Not really my subject m8y :| still there are a mixture of things you can do firstly more air, e.g induction kit or high flow filter K&N or re-profiling the cams the biggest plus would be the exhaust system and you’ve got one also you could limp mode the transmission at the flick of a switch not for faint hearted though, faster shifts and less slip :idea:

Glad you landed safely bud

Pollen filter on 6th Gen Coupe CG2, it covers the 2.0, 3.0L models, the illustrations should be self explanatory really So once the two screws are removed as shown above, remove the ash tray and pull out the trim this will reveal another screw shown below. Now using your common sense remove the screws which are securing the glove-box as illustrated below. So once your confident the bolts & screws are all out, give the glove-box latch a hard pull upwards to free it? I would recommend giving the housing a good vacuum, then maybe a quick spray of bacterial solution. Now its just a case of reversal of removal and getting all the screws back in the right places and good luck. Any questions please ask as it was probably the most awkward pollen filter I've ever done.

Worth checking this video first, if your having a hard time shutting your boot on the Accord Coupe There is a little piece of plastic "cover" and once in a while becomes dislodged try and re-seat it maybe a clean of the area & re-grease and it should shut with no effort at all

No real differences than any other Honda, nevertheless few pics for those interested. Repeat this process both sides and you will require an 8mm socket for best results then move on to the 10mm lower retainer bolts, these hold the bumper and splash guards together (pictured below) Note: those plastic retaining clips are not cheap so take care and any questions just ask

OBD connector is located in the drivers foot-well just under the right of the steering wheel on the CG2-CG4 coupes. There's a three pin connector and a two pin connector housed in blanking socket see illustration below. Anyway it's the three pin your after and it usually wont work on the cheaper scanners with a converter cable either from the 3pin to 16pin OBD2 and for reference the two pin one is for blinking codes in sequence via the engine management light if a fault is flagged. The three pin is for the scanner tool, the two pin you can short it with a paperclip and it will blink the code long flashes are tens e.g 6 and 3 fast flashes count the number and you will get the code 63. Also it will only work if the Engine Management light is on. Hope you never need to find it

Found a historical code amongst others stored on my project car obviously somebody just reset the ECU and left it and we all know Honda's have a tendency to relearn their environment and make the best of it Fault code cleared and fault actually rectified this time also I decided replace the EGR valve with a known good valve as the original was sticking but it was pretty clogged up Good old Eric has a vid' on this so get dirty

Additionally a faulty PCV valve can contribute to oil consumption couple of pic's to illustrate Quick clean

I suspected I had been living with minor oil leak for a while and recently added an oil additive to help rejuvenate the seals a little Well it worked and so well oil started to come out of the dipstick tube just noticed a little misting. Anyway first thought was the PCV valve and did the basic check vacuum check and it held on to my finger pretty well. Although this test doesn't really rule out PCV as not to be the problem its a one way valve and using a 8mm hose and primer bulb it failed miserably so replaced it with UK 6th Gen Valve they are crossed reffed to be compatible (V6) P/N: 7130PR7A01, (1.8/2.0/2.3 Engines) 17130PV3013, 17130PY3L01 and once replaced the engine is even less audible than before which was a shock, although an oil catch can did cross my mind 8-) item 2 item 1 Little smidgin of copper grease to swell up the seal if you don't have new one Cleaned hose end to end before refitting, the earlier J series tube is terminated nearer the throttle body so it's easier to inspect.

Becoming a common fault these days as are beloved coupes are getting older, the radiator fan switch operates in similar way to the thermostat and consequently it will fail eventually so he are a few pic's to aid replacement. I strongly advise you tackle this job when the engine is cold and drain some coolant from the radiator first Anybody that spots the dodgy jubilee clip, it was temp thing to stop coolant spraying in my face till I replaced the stuck thermostat Tip: you could loose fit the new switch and refill until coolant leaks out and then tighten it up, this will help air out of the system :?: Don't forget to top up the coolant and run the engine to burp the system of air, any questions just ask

Welcome to the other-side

Any Honda Legend Projects or Purchase suggestions guys & gals

Any Rover 800 or 600 project suggestions