ZeroEffort
-
Posts
21 -
Joined
-
Last visited
ZeroEffort's Achievements
-
This just happened to me after I got it detail cleaned. Screen just went black. All fuses are good and power supplies. The only thing that hasn't been done is removing the dash and checking whatever power cable is going to the screen itself. What did you end up doing?
-
Not yet, I had to leave for a work trip so I won't be checking until Friday.
-
So of those the only one I didn’t check previously was 8. 19 did not have a fuse on it, but that actually says option 2 not ignition. I swapped te fuse in 20 and checked fuse 22, thats the 120/40 one. I also checked 23 in the underbonnet.
-
Sorry I did not mean to quote you twice
-
On mine the large ones are 120a/40a and then the ignition is 50/50. Also, the charge warning light does not illuminate.
-
I bought terminal connectors, however I never realized before this point that for Japanese vehicles the battery terminals are smaller, so I ended up needing to purchase shims. I used the shim and the same old connector and made it fit tightly on the battery. The alternator seemed to be charging the battery, however after about 30 min it stopped charging, the battery voltage dropped from about 11.9v to approximately 7.9v. I swapped the ACG fuse just to check even though it looked good, checked the ignition relay, and the main battery relay and they also looked good, super clean honestly. Also, with a multimeter I checked how much voltage was being pulled at the positive connector by pulling it off (engine not running), and it was reading .194 and gradually went down to about .15, barely anything, so I do not think I have a parasitic drain. The only thing I can think of now is the exciter cable from the alternator to the battery, but without taking a bunch apart and can’t get a good look at it. A co-worker of mine said that he had a Ford with alternator issues once. He ordered an alternator from AutoZone or O’Reilly’s, someplace like that and the issues stayed. He called Ford and apparently they have a proprietary voltage regulator so the one he bought was not going to work and had to order it through Ford. I do not think this is the case for this vehicle because I can’t seem to find anything on it, and the part number the store here ordered was the one I got off the old part.
-
Yes, I got the knock sensor replaced in February 2022. I should add that I definitely need to replace my positive terminal because it is as tight as it will get and it's loose. I thought this could be the issue but if I remove it from the battery it kills the engine so it is making contact. So I will be replacing it, I just don't think it is the cause.
-
So here's an update on this whole situation, almost a year and a half later. Based on what you all suggested here I had asked them if the had eyes on the flex plate and saw that teeth were missing. They told me yes so I went about searching for a torque converter. The motor lasted 6 months before seizing and burning out. The shop said the starter would be covered under warranty so I continued to look for a torque converter. I finally found one and discovered there is a guy here in Germany who works on JDMs. When I went to the shop to get the starter, it was not the part they originally installed, it was completely different than any of the starters I've seen. I told them it's different and they said that's what it shows in the system. So I brought it to the other mechanics shop and told them it's probably wrong. They removed the starter and told me it was incorrect and they are ordering one through Honda. They also told me the torque converter/flywheel/flex plate is not missing any teeth. So the originally shop not only lied about verifying the part number originally, but also lied about teeth missing. Now once I left this other shop I was driving to my house and I lost all electronics/gauges in my car but the engine stayed running. Since the car was sitting for over.six months without starting I figured it could be a battery or alternator. I had my battery charged and tested and it passed fine (I had the battery replaced Feb 2022). I drove the car for a day and I started losing electronics again, so with the engine running disconnected the negative terminal and the engine died. I ordered and just replaced the alternator but the issue is still happening. I can jump the car, but as soon as I disconnect the cables the gps goes out first, then my gauges, but the engine will stay running. Does anyone have any ideas.
-
Copy, thank you.
-
So they verified both starters are exactly the same and got the car to start as well. It was doing the grinding but tested the new starter and it checked fine. The teeth on the flywheel/torque converter are pretty jacked apparently (they were able to look at it and verify). From what I understand the torque converter on Honda’s is not one that is completely encased, it has a gear ring mounted to the outside. That is the only “flywheel” I could find on an automatic. It is the diagram that hugheze posted above. I am trying to post a picture but I cannot figure out how lol.
-
The shop has the van now, I have them looking into the old starter's part# along with the new#. I have been searching for torque converters as well. I was trying to figure out, but I can not find a definitive answer as to what the difference is between RFF/RBB if any. On the amayama and jp-carparts websites they list the part # as 26000-RFF-305 but I find 26000-RBB-305 on sites like ebay and other car part sites.
-
Yes, by part number. No they did not see mine
-
So do you two think it is more likely that the new starter is faulty?
-
Thanks, sorry I did not respond to you directly before, I was doing it from my phone.
-
Hugh thanks for the info! I had my buddy push me to back to the shop and I left the car there. I am going to have to swing by there in the morning. But yeah they didn't take photos or anything. I know because of where the starter is located they struggled to get down there but I don't even know if they even looked.
