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Which Automatic Gearbox Fluid 1998 1999 2000 2001 Accord 3.0 V6


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As a follow up to past discussions regarding automatic transmission fluids and the problems with Honda ATF-DW1 p/n: 0826899901HE when used in older transmissions. For more info' please follow this link: https://honda6.ipbhost.com/topic/4790-honda-atf-dw1-warning-warning-warning/

So I have illustrated two of the most common fluids used by myself or recommended by other members, so if you are looking for a standard fluid I would recommend carlube ATF-U. Owners looking for the ultimate protection and restored smooth-shifting I would strongly recommend the AMSOIL signature series. 👍

ATU.jpg

AMS.jpg

PLEASE NOTE: the information within this topic has been kindly contributed by one of our experienced members and has been extensively researched and found to be correct by independent testing or external resources.

Regards SITE DEVELOPMENT.

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Typically when the fluid is drained only 2.4L will come out, so the remaining fluid should be diluted over a period of time e.g 3 part changes at 3 weeks or 3 month intervals  depending on how many mi

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  • 1 year later...

Car is booked in for an ATF change on Thursday, and I have two queries.  My mechanic is brilliant and I'm not going to teach him how to suck eggs, but I'd still like to check on here:

1) Should I ask for a 3/4 drain and refill, plus a repeat in a few months' time?

2) I can supply my own fluid if I have a particular preference - he doesn't mind.

3) What are the quantities, i.e. how much to drain off and refill each time?

Transmission seems fine at the mo and I want it to stay that way!

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Typically when the fluid is drained only 2.4L will come out, so the remaining fluid should be diluted over a period of time e.g 3 part changes at 3 weeks or 3 month intervals  depending on how many miles you travel. Also should you experience hard or jerky changes after any of the fluid changes I would reset the ATC unit (Automatic Transmission Control Unit) ;)

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Err, yeah, what Stu said ^^^^^^^ - I seem to recall yours had some DW-1 put in it by a previous owner on the last part change and if so, you probablt need to book your next part change for about 2-3 weeks after this one! Once you've done with "this round" of part changes, it would be a good idea to reset the EAT/ATC anyway to let the system relearn the best way of responding given it would then have a good proportion of fresh fluid in.

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Member Graymalkin AKA Richard has a low mileage example V6 Coupe with no apparent issues with the transmission, we still replaced the ATF due to the fluids age and I am pleased to report he noticed a great improvement almost immediately :D

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Hi, any advice will be appreciated. I'v had my coupe 3lt for three years. 18 months ago I had transmission fluid changed by Honda. I have noticed recently a clunking when going on 1st to 2nd. I am thinking of doing a partial fluid change (3 litre). Any suggestions please.

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Welcome to the club and sorry to hear your experiencing a problem, firstly when shifting is it a clatter/ clunk metal sound or is it a combination or any thumps or jerks when shifting?  :huh: 

Maybe worth checking the cars right-side engine mount for splits, as this can effect shifting feel as well, linked below.

Failing that check out this topic for a bit more info'

 

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OK what's your current mileage and is there an unpleasant smell or any brown or black colouration to the fluid including any particles mixed with it?

Sorry for all the questions I'm Just trying to build up a picture of what's what and whether a fluid change could make things better or worse ;)

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Thanks again the car has done 81000 I'm averaging about 2000 a year no smell of burning and the fluid is still pink in colour opie have delivered my atf this morning but I will wait for your reply before changing.thanks again.

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Thanks for the extra info' sounds to me its just in need of a simple fluid change, the hard shift is a good sign in one way but a sign of other internal fluid flow is becoming restricted and the new fluid should solve this, providing it's been addressed early enough ;)

Please let us know how you get on and feel free to introduce yourself here: http://honda6.ipbhost.com/index.php?/forum/7-new-members/ and if you like why not post some pic's in the gallery: http://honda6.ipbhost.com/index.php?/forum/26-club-gallery/ ;)

 

 

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Mine sometimes goes into 4th with a bit of a thump, but 1st to 2nd and 2nd to 3rd are always smooth, so I'm assuming (hoping) no problem.  But Stu, I think you said it would need another part change of fluid around now. 

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Oh well, it's time to buy some more of the red stuff.  (And some Valvoline.)  Funny how this car has become a bit of an obsession.  I only wanted an old banger to run around in, and I even quite liked the idea of a few knocks and scrapes because I wouldn't worry so much about getting more of them.  That's not quite how it has worked out! 

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Hmmm, funny that Andrew - considering how far you travelled for it! ;):D I can't talk though - i went down to Portsmouth for my Jeep (although that was to hopefully prevent either Rover being hit in the ice over winter) and had a similar mind-set of it's a cheap old Jeep, it won't matter too much if it gets a ding or three.

Now i've become protective over it and seriously thinking of changing my original plan of selling it come the summer. That said, even the big Dodge RAM 1500s get out of the way when they see the Jeep so i doubt anyone would be daft eonugh to deliberately go head to head with it! :lol:

It's still lovely to get into the Rovers though with the effortless power, comfort and smooth ride - and bum warmers! :D

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Dave, I think part of it is to do with the fact that HACs are now so rare, and that it would be a shame not to keep one in reasonable nick.  As with my Lexus, I bought cheap on the basis that if I liked it I could sell on and buy a better, newer, lower mileage example.  But in both cases there are so few left (at sensible money) that, realistically, that's never going to happen now.  So I want to keep both cars running properly and do some cosmetic work to make them look half-decent, but not what to me is 'restoration'.  They're both everyday cars, and not wrapped in cotton wool.

More generally, isn't there something satisfying about running such an old car that's so well made and (fingers crossed) reliable?  You expect it of a new car, but when you get it in an old one it makes you like it even more.  That's how I feel, anyway - and almost superior to people in their new BMWs and Audis (I'm not, of course).  If I could afford a newish car I'm sure I would buy one, but I'm not sure I'd get such satisfaction from it as I do from my three old heaps.  

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Great minds definitely thinking alike there! That was also the ideology about buying the Jeep cheaply - now the prices are starting to go up, especially for the pre-facelift (1996-97 cars) which is what i've got. Three or four years ago you could buy low mileage, immaculate examples with a years MoT and a few months tax (when it was still legal to sell the tax with a car), LPG and other extras for £300 - now that barely gets a runner in scrapyard condition!

I've seen the same happen to HACs, Rover 827s (both Sterling and coupé), Jeeps, Volvo 740s and several other cars i've either owned or still do. What i own now won't be sold (except maybe the Jeep to get a HAC) because i can't replace them with anything that's as comfortable, reliable, economical (not sure on the Jeep with that one lol!) for the same money. I would literally have to spend thousands on a new car and even those aren't reliable as they should be - better to stick with the devil you know at times and in all honesty, i don't want to sell any of mine.

In years to come, people like us will almost certainly still have our cars because we've looked after them and don't want to sell and be getting offers in the street of silly money to part with them.

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2 hours ago, BN Coupe said:

  That's how I feel, anyway - and almost superior to people in their new BMWs and Audis (I'm not, of course).

You know how to use your indicators and mirrors and you don't tailgate others? That instantly confirms you are superior to the drivers of those Teutonic Euro-Blobs! Oh yeah, you don't drive a carcinogenic diseasel either - that's another superiority point! :lol:

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Do you have any views on the Mannol Multivehicle ATF available from ebay via Germany?

 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/20-5x4-Liter-MANNOL-Multivehicle-Automatik-Getriebeol-/361375579484?hash=item5423a9bd5c:g:EJgAAOSwA3dYFwWZ

 

A few people on another forum have used it on Asin AW55 type boxes on Renaults, Volvos and Saabs which are also very fussy on fluid types.

 

It states it's Z1 compliant. Apprently it's made in a big refinery in Lithuania by a german company. The engine oils also get good reviews.

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  • hughezee changed the title to 1970-2015 Which Automatic Transmission Fluid For Honda "ATF"
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