clayts450 Posted November 17, 2019 Report Share Posted November 17, 2019 Sorry for not being around much lately, but other members of the fleet have been getting the love. Coupe has been neglected a bit since the replacement rear window went in, but it then did me the 250 mile round trip to my parents' without any hassle, and I'm trying to commute in it at least once per week (have to cycle through four of the others on fleet too, to keep them moving). I did have to look at the back brakes again as they started making the bedspring squeaking noise, so pulled them apart and regreased and put back together and all is well (and quiet) again. I do need to renew the ATF again (2nd change of 3) and that'll be the next job, just as soon as the weather stops chucking the wet stuff down. Three current issues to sort out - (1) driver's door lock no longer works with the blipper (passenger door works fine, boot release works fine), but works okay on the key, so suspecting the actuator may need switching out, unless anyone has any other troubleshooting tips ? (2) leak in the boot (in the nearside cubby hole under the plastic tray) - I suspect this may be related to the big dent and I need to bend some metal out and maybe wang some sealant down there (3) I've lost the connector and the wires for the parcel shelf mounted brake light ! I think this must have been when I stripped out the back of the car for the window replacement, and I have stuck it all back together without fishing out the connector, so I'll need to take it all apart again ! Meanwhile, I have acquired another Rover/Honda, this lovely old girl, a Mk 1 Rover 820 Si manual - Rover M-series engine, with just 43K on the clock. Cost me hardly anything and the previous owner has done everything needed to get it through another 43K without any fuss. Some minor rust treatment and an iffy handbrake to sort out and all will be good. 1990s executive car driving at it's best... 4 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted November 17, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted November 17, 2019 51 minutes ago, clayts450 said: (1) driver's door lock no longer works with the blipper (passenger door works fine, boot release works fine), but works okay on the key, so suspecting the actuator may need switching out, unless anyone has any other troubleshooting tips ? Sounds very like the drivers door actuator has gone belly-up. Someone on here got another from ebay and fixed it that way, think it was new from China. Might be wrong though. 52 minutes ago, clayts450 said: (2) leak in the boot (in the nearside cubby hole under the plastic tray) Check the sunroof drain in that area. THey have a habit of pulling apart where the hose from the sunroof joins the valve that lets the water out into the arch area - the cure is to buy a nylon 14 x 10mm connector from ebay, take most of the "ribs" off the small end so it's nearly smooth but has some of the ribs left. Use some impact adhesive or epoxy resin adhesive on the small end and push it into the sunroof drain hose. The big end is a tight fit in the valve which is a kind of rubber elbow animal and has a grommet type fixing into the inner wing. You can pul it out of the bodywork to make life easier and is also good to clean it out. Some people cut the "lips" of the valve off to ensure free-flow to water. Valve and joiner together ^^^^^ .......... and separately ^^^^^^^ 1 hour ago, clayts450 said: an iffy handbrake to sort out Slacken the handbrake adjuster so the handbrake cable is loose - the adjuster is under the back end of the centre console. Long time since i had a Mk1 so can't remember exactly but seem to remember lifting the coin trays out of the rear console. Remove the rear wheels and remove the brake pads. Wind the pistons back in. Check the pads for any rough edges, removing with a file if necessary. Smear a little copper grease on the back of the pads, the guide pins and the caliper where the edges of the pad contact it. Refit the pads. Presss the brake pedal a few times gently until normal feel is returned then give it a few hefty pushes, you should hear the auto-adjusters ratcheting during this. Then, and only then, re-adjust the handbrake cable. If memory serves, on the Mk1, it's 5-8 clicks to be fully on with the handbrake lever. On the Mk2, there is a higerh lift before the first notch of the handbrake ratchet so it's 3-6 clicks on the handbrake. Alternatively, measure the clearance between the handbrake operating lever and handbrake cam on each caliper, it should be between 0.5-2.0mm, i prefer to do it on the number of clicks. Finally check with the handbrake off, both wheels turn with no drag and that they lock up easily (or at least slow you down pretty sharply) when driving at about 15-20mph and you pull the handbrake on sharply. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators hughezee Posted November 18, 2019 Administrators Report Share Posted November 18, 2019 What Dave said 😉 cracking new acquisition too 👍😍 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clayts450 Posted November 18, 2019 Report Share Posted November 18, 2019 Yeah, I had a play with the handbrake on the 820 on Saturday - it's just a screwdriver down the back of the plastic cover of the handbrake to pop it off and you can get at the adjuster easily enough. I'm well versed in the routine as I had to do it to the 620 to get that one through an MoT - it's the driver's side which is the problem, and I did strip back everything, regrease , wound piston in etc etc, and squidged the pedal a few times and tightened up the adjuster. Didn't solve it and by then it was getting dark and raining, so I'll have to have another go. On about 9 clicks presently, so not far off. At least now it holds on hills which it didn't do before, but I think it'll be a case of getting the spring off, cleaning it all out and giving that cam nut a good old waggle to and fro as that seems to be where the resistance is - precisely the same thing which happened on the 620, funnily enough. Thanks for the heads up on the sunroof drain and for confirming my suspicions on the actuator. Further investigations to ensue... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted November 18, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted November 18, 2019 10 minutes ago, clayts450 said: I think it'll be a case of getting the spring off, cleaning it all out and giving that cam nut a good old waggle to and fro as that seems to be where the resistance is - precisely the same thing which happened on the 620, funnily enough. The main cause of caliper trouble on the rear of the 2/4/6/800, Accords, Legends etc is the fact most people don't know how to change pads correctly. They wind the pistons in but don't bother loosening the handbrake cable first so the auto-adjusters haven't got room to work. At the best case, this means you lose the auto-adjustment so the "friendly local MoT garage" will adjust the handbrake cable which gives a handbrake and a service brake back for the MoT but after a while, this reduces in efficiency because the caliper has seized. Early caught ones can be freed off but usually results in a bright ing in the centre of the pad contact area on the disc, nothing at the top or bottom of the pad areaas it's only acting on the centre of the pad. Again, if caught erly enough, the discs can be saved but if left too long, you have to renew the discs too. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Site Subscriber’s Kelvin Posted November 18, 2019 Site Subscriber’s Report Share Posted November 18, 2019 A lovely drive today, windows down, sunroof open and the heated seat on 😀 A quick blast across the county and back with an empty boot for a change, it's such a lovely motor on days like this. The car park after was rather American... 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted November 18, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted November 18, 2019 Nice to see 3 USA coupes parked together! Always liked that pale blue metallic on the Crossfire. One of the few cars around that makes the Accord Coupe look small though! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Site Subscriber’s Kelvin Posted November 19, 2019 Site Subscriber’s Report Share Posted November 19, 2019 Yeah - even the wheels are huge! It'd be nice to try one of the big mercedes engined beasts out but otherwise, I'd stick with my Honda. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted November 19, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted November 19, 2019 If memory serves the Merc engined ones are the diseasels? Drove a petrol one (and a 300C) about a decade ago, both felt big and wallowy - typically American. Nice and controlled but wallowy nonetheless. Stick with your Honda! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Site Subscriber’s Kelvin Posted November 20, 2019 Site Subscriber’s Report Share Posted November 20, 2019 22 hours ago, Laird_Scooby said: If memory serves the Merc engined ones are the diseasels? Drove a petrol one (and a 300C) about a decade ago, both felt big and wallowy - typically American. Nice and controlled but wallowy nonetheless. Stick with your Honda! The 3.2l V6 is MB and the SRT-6 has 330hp, all on a MK1 SLK chassis. To be fair, the Honda felt big and wallowy until it was lowered 😀 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted November 20, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted November 20, 2019 7 minutes ago, Kelvin said: The 3.2l V6 is MB and the SRT-6 has 330hp, all on a MK1 SLK chassis. I was thinking of the 300C - sorry, in that the V6 is the turbodiesel MB unit, i thought the Crossfire was a V8 (at least that's what i was told by the owner although i did comment it didn't sound like a V8) and the 300C sounded very different (5.7 V8) but the owner insisted they were both the same. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted November 20, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted November 20, 2019 12 minutes ago, Kelvin said: To be fair, the Honda felt big and wallowy until it was lowered 😀 I was comparing the 300C to my Sterling which at the time was still on the punt 21mm front and 17mm rear ARBs, the 26/21 front/rear ARBs tightened it up considerably a couple of years later. I know the previous gen Accord coupe felt very taut on the road, not wallowy at all. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Site Subscriber’s Kelvin Posted November 20, 2019 Site Subscriber’s Report Share Posted November 20, 2019 3 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: I was thinking of the 300C - sorry, in that the V6 is the turbodiesel MB unit, i thought the Crossfire was a V8 (at least that's what i was told by the owner although i did comment it didn't sound like a V8) and the 300C sounded very different (5.7 V8) but the owner insisted they were both the same. It's interesting - in Europe we were given what basically amounted to a rebadged SLK but in the states, their top model was a 5.7 V8. I guess handling did have something to do with that decision. And yes, the 300c is a wallowy old beast but the estate makes a great mover of stuff. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanoCoupe Posted November 29, 2019 Report Share Posted November 29, 2019 Coupe finally had oil change yesterday 4k over due 🙈 She feels smoother and happier now never letting her go that far ever again! No horrors underneath other than rear discs will be needed soon ish and obviously the frame 😃 Really want to start modding her, bloody Instagram 😫😫😫😫 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted November 29, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted November 29, 2019 Managed to get on the case today with yet another oil change, gearbox will have to wait until January though. Checked air filter and all fluid levels, good to go..... Cleared out the spiders/webs/ condensation etc and dropped the pressure on the tyres (blown up for storage).... taxed the beast to start Sunday 1st December, remembered to book the MoT in for January, yes, I know, bit early but I was a boy sprout long ago 😄 Just got to get it on the ramps tomorrow afternoon clean off the underside and spray it with Bilt Hamber finest anti-corrosion fluid ! Then its ready to roll again !....a blast to Preston on the new bypass that opens on Monday beckons... Paintwork not finished yet , too cold to do anything so a few patches here and there, particularly where the rear end shunt happened a while back. Still, spring is just around the corner 😜 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanoCoupe Posted December 1, 2019 Report Share Posted December 1, 2019 So yesterday I really started to notice a squeak under compression on the osf front, I am thinking the shock has gone unless anyone knows better? 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted December 1, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted December 1, 2019 2 hours ago, DeanoCoupe said: So yesterday I really started to notice a squeak under compression on the osf front, I am thinking the shock has gone unless anyone knows better? Mouse in your undercarriage? 😜 Seriously, can you see any leakage from the shock? It will be very apparent if it has actually "gone" If not then I would have a look at the rubber bushes in all suspension joints first....spray the suspect, if you can see it, with some WD or GT85...or similar , go for a drive see if it disappears...failing that spray everything and leave it to see what happens over a period of time. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted December 1, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted December 1, 2019 Didn't actually manage to get under the Coupe Saturday so this morning got down and dirty with it 😛 Blimey, bit chilly this morning.... On the ramps ready to go up. Not looking too bad, exhaust a bit crusty but " don't poke it, Dad ! " Rest of it in pretty good condition, bit of a clean off and spray it with Bilt Hamber UC in all the nooks and crannies and its good to go until the spring. Quick blast around for 10 miles (forgotten how well these Coupes go having not driven it all summer 😭 ) to clean up engine / exhaust / brakes and dry out the inside, condensation is terrible at the moment, arrived back and ticking over perfectly... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted December 1, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted December 1, 2019 5 hours ago, DeanoCoupe said: I am thinking the shock has gone unless anyone knows better? Try the bounce test on each corner. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted December 1, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted December 1, 2019 16 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: Try the bounce test on each corner. ah, yes the KISS method !! good thinking !! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanoCoupe Posted December 2, 2019 Report Share Posted December 2, 2019 It does seem to pitch to that corner under braking too.... Seems to be under hard compression of that corner too. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators PTR200S Posted December 2, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted December 2, 2019 Have you checked the spring ? Not broken is it ? If it dips one side it may be the opposite side not compressing completely so check that too. Seems odd it "pitches" into that corner (shock gone ) but its hard under compression, not from the spring? Again check those bushes for seizure..... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanoCoupe Posted December 2, 2019 Report Share Posted December 2, 2019 I will get it on the ramp this week, bloody cars ! 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moderators Laird_Scooby Posted December 2, 2019 Moderators Report Share Posted December 2, 2019 12 minutes ago, DeanoCoupe said: I will get it on the ramp this week, You don't neeed a ramp for the bounce test................... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeanoCoupe Posted December 2, 2019 Report Share Posted December 2, 2019 20 minutes ago, Laird_Scooby said: You don't neeed a ramp for the bounce test................... Bounce test was inconclusive 🤣🤣 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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